W220 S-Class Encyclopedia - User contributions [en]

Gearshift

2023-11-22T00:17:24Z

Masood:

== Transmission shifter ==

[[File:B27213000007.060816.png|thumb|none|Shifter console related parts in [[EPC]]]]

The M-B Transmission Selector allows the driver to select the required mode for the automatic transmission with the choices being usually;
* Park
* Reverse
* Neutral
* Drive (with a choice for manually selecting higher or lower gears if required)

== Transmission shifter Linkage Bushing ==
A very common issue with all 722.6 transmissions is that the linkage bushing wears out with use or just as a function of time.
This creates a very dangerous scenario where the car will move even if geared in Park.

This video shows how to replace this $3 bushing as a Maintenace item:
{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/tkNL1TWbii8|320|left|722.6 Linkage Bushing Replacement by Masood|frame}}
|}

The M-B transmission shifter has a safety feature whereby it is supposed to remain locked in Park unless the proper key is in the ignition and the brake pedal is pressed.

== Transmission shifter stuck in park ==
A common issue is that the transmission shifter becomes stuck in the park position thus disabling the vehicle.

If you notice it is hard to move the transmission gear from Park to Drive, or that it is not shifting as easily as before, take it as a warning sign and follow the instructions in the following video to replace the little plastic lever inside the shifter assembly before it is stuck in Park and the car has to be towed to a mechanic. This applies to 2000 - 2006 W220 S500, S430, CL500, and 2001-2006 S55 AMG.

Part numbers are 2202679924 (the car in video, 2000 S500) - around $42 from Amazon as of May 2023 - and 2202679724 ($27). Unless you know exactly which to buy, purchase both and return the one that doesn't fit.

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/GF01YZ06oag?si=sjayJhSxO_637BDq|320|left|Permanently Fix Stuck Shifter by Masood|frame}}
|}

In case of emergency, a stuck shifter can be moved out from the park position using force:
{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CF0tsQpM-qU|320|left|Move stuck shifter using vibrations.|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLsEHOVAPms|320|left|Move stuck shifter using hammer.|frame}}
|}

The most common cause for this problem is a plastic lever that breaks inside the shifter.
Another cause for the problem could be a defective brake light switch (or blown [[fuses|fuse f16]] - stop signal switch).

A broken plastic lever can be replaced with an aftermarket metal lever (~30 EUR from eBay using the keyword "W220 trans shifter lever").
To properly replace the lever, a rivet gun and 3 aluminium rivets are needed. The original rivets are of size 3.2x12mm, but in practice 3.2x8mm rivets will work as well.

{|
|[[File:W220_shifter_lever_aftermarket_vs_original.jpg|thumb|none|Aftermarket metal lever vs the original broken plastic lever]]
|[[File:W220_shifter_lever_replacement_aluminium_rivets.jpg|thumb|none|Reinstalling aluminium rivets]]
|}

The broken plastic part can be removed without replacing it, but doing so defeats the brake/shifter interlock,
as it will be possible to move the shift lever at all times even with ignition on or off.
If you plan to leave unattended children in the car, this fix may not be right for you in which case
you should replace the broken pieces to restore the safety feature to its original condition.

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsxUFVtdPHk|320|left|Mercedes Shifter Removal|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNvh9cETrKI|320|left|How to repair stuck shifter, replace shifter lever|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsZs47Cxog8|320|left|Car stuck in park p1|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPyhGZpVXl0|320|left|Car Stuck in park p2|frame}}
|}

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuMczG9pdh8|320|left|Shifter lever plastic replacement with metal part.|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEbECxj-wzM|320|left|Shifter lever diagnosis.|frame}}
|}

== Shift knob ==
=== Removing shift knob ===

# Unlock the shifter knob by turning conterclockwise on the chrome part of the knob until it stops, only 1/4 of a turn is necessary.
# Lift the knob straight up off the shaft. Do this in N position if you have large hands so when the knob is coming off of the shaft you don't hit the COMAND screen and center console.

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WkpvYdD8T4|320|left|Shifter knob Removal.|frame}}
|}

=== Fixing loose shift knob ===

Incorrect removal procedure by trying to twist the knob, will damage the plastic core of the gear knob and knob will become loose.
One way to fix a loose knob is to use type around the shaft.
The idea is to build up some thickness on the shaft.
Do not wrap anything around the chrome bezel area, it won't do anything but stop the knob returning to it's original locked position.
Only wrap the top part of the shaft.

{|
|[[File:W220_shift_knob_remove.jpg|thumb|none|]]
|[[File:W220_fix_loose_shift_knob.jpg|thumb|none|]]
|}

=== Dissecting shift knob ===
# Use cord to tie up the plastic core and to pull the plastic ring off.
# Pour in some alcohol in between the wood part and the plastic core. Alcohol will soften the glue. Tier it gently until it comes off.
# [[KEYLESS-GO]] button is attached from the bottom with two T6 screws.

{|
|[[File:W220_shift_knob_ring_removal.jpg|thumb|none|Plastic ring pulled off from the plastic core.]]
|[[File:W220_shift_knob_wood_core_separated.jpg|thumb|none|Wood part separated from the plastic core.]]
|}
{|
|[[File:W220_shift_knob_keyless-go_button_removed.jpg|thumb|none|[[KEYLESS-GO]] button removed.]]
|[[File:W220_shift_knob_A2202671510_parts_separated.jpg|thumb|none|Shift knob (A2202671510) fully dissected.]]
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_shift_knob_A2202671510_new_leather.jpg|thumb|none|Shift knob with new leather.]]
|[[File:W220_shift_knob_dissected.jpg|thumb|none|Pre-facelift shift knob dissected.]]
|}

Front axle

2023-11-22T00:12:42Z

Masood:

== Parts ==
{|
|[[File:W220_steering_knuckle_and_control_arm_epc.png|thumb|none|Steering knuckle and control arm-related parts in [[EPC]]]]
|[[File:W220_torsion_bar_front_epc.png|thumb|none|Torsion bar front related parts in [[EPC]]]]
|}

{| class="wikitable" style="margin-left: 0px;"
|+W220 Front Suspension Part Numbers
|-
!style="text-align:center;"|Item no.
!Part number
!Designation/description
!Quantity
|-
|5
|A2203303720
|STEERING KNUCKLE LEFT. Code: -Z04 (also known as spindle or hub)
[[File:Steering Knuckle Item 5.jpg|thumb|none|steering knuckle]]
|001
|-
|5
|A2203303820
|STEERING KNUCKLE RIGHT Code: -Z04
|001
|-
|10
|A2203330727
LEMFORDER 3377301 (EUR 20)
|JOINT (left and right)
[[File:Ball Joint Steering Knuckle to Lower Control Arm Item 10.JPG|thumb|none|Ball Joint Steering Knuckle to Lower Control Arm]]
|001
|-
|15
|A2203300725
|FRONT WHEEL HUB WITH BEARING
|002
|-
|16
|A0029806502
|TAPERED ROLLER BEARING. WHEEL HUB, OUTSIDE. Code: -Z07
|002
|-
|16
|A1409810305
|TAPERED ROLLER BEARING. WHEEL HUB, INSIDE. Code: -Z07
|001
|-
|16
|A1409810305
|TAPERED ROLLER BEARING. WHEEL HUB, INSIDE
|001
|-
|17
|A0229979747
|SEAL RING. WHEEL HUB. Code: -Z07
|001
|-
|17
|A0229979747
|SEAL RING. WHEEL HUB
|001
|-
|25
|A1163340372
|NUT FRONT WHEEL HUB TO STEERING KNUCKLE
|002
|-
|25
|A2203201689 (left)
LEMFÖRDER 29311 01 (15 EUR)
|ROD AT TORSION BAR LEFT. Code: -487 (also called sway bar link / stabilizer link)
{|
|[[File:Lemforder_2931101.jpg|thumb|none|Stabilizer link (left)]]
|[[File:Lemforder_2721801_bushing.jpg|thumb|none|Stabilizer link bushing (LEMFÖRDER 2721801 (6 EUR))]]
|}
|001
|-
|25
|A2203201589 (right)
LEMFÖRDER 29310 01 (15 EUR)
|ROD AT TORSION BAR RIGHT. Code: -487
{|
|[[File:Lemforder_2931001.jpg|thumb|none|Stabilizer link (right)]]
|[[File:Lemforder_2721801_bushing.jpg|thumb|none|Stabilizer link bushing (LEMFÖRDER 2721801 (6 EUR))]]
|}
|001
|-
|30
|N000000003358
|HEXALOBULAR BOLT FRONT WHEEL HUB TO STEERING KNUCKLE M6X25
|002
|-
|35
|A1683570089
|PLUG FRONT WHEEL HUB TO STEERING KNUCKLE
|002
|-
|40
|A2203308907
LEMFORDER 3442101 (EUR 50)
|TRANSVERSE CONTROL ARM BOTTOM LEFT Code: -487-Z07 (also known as spring control arm or lower control arm)
[[File:Transverse Control Arm Bottom Item 40.JPG|thumb|none|lower control arm (right and left)]]
[[File:Rear View of Transverse Control Arm Bottom Lower Item 40.jpg|thumb|none|Rear view of lower control arm]]
[[File:Front View of Transverse Control Arm Bottom Lower Item 40.JPG|thumb|none|Front view of lower control arm]]
|001
|-
|40
|A2203309007
LEMFORDER 3442201(EUR 50)
|TRANSVERSE CONTROL ARM BOTTOM RIGHT Code: -487-Z07
|001
|-
|45
|A2203309107
|TS SPRING LINK PARTS KIT LEFT AND RIGHT Code: -Z07. [408] ONLY REPLACEABLE BY PAIRS
|002
|-
|46
|A2203333114
|BEARING SPRING CONTROL ARM. Code: -Z07
|002
|-
|47
|A2113230068
LEMFORDER 2166702 (13 EUR)
|Stabilizer bar pivot bushing for lower control arm (left and right)
[[File:LEMFORDER_2166702_stabilizer_bar_pivot_bushing.jpg|100px]]
|002
|-
|50
|A2203330071
|BOLT SPRING CONTROL ARM AT FRAME M14X1.5
|002
|-
|50
|A2203330171
|FITTED BOLT FOR ADJUSTING WORK ONLY M14X1.5
|002
|-
|55
|A2203330076
|SHIM SPRING CONTROL ARM AT FRAME
|004
|-
|60
|N000000003281
FEBI BILSTEIN 23696 (1 EUR)
|HEXAGON NUT SPRING CONTROL ARM AT FRAME M14X1,5
[[File:N000000003281.jpg|200px]]
|002
|-
|64
|N000000003281
|HEXAGON NUT SPRING LINK ON SUPPORTING JOINT M14X1,5
|002
|-
|65
|A2203305711
LEMFORDER 3123501 (EUR 72)
|STRUT LEFT (also called Thrust Arm or Torque Strut)
[[File:Strut Item 65.JPG|thumb|none|Thrust arm (right and left)]]
[[File:Item 65 Strut (Thrust Arm or Torque Strut).JPG|thumb|none|Thrust arm]]
|001
|-
|65
|A2203305811
LEMFORDER 3123601 (EUR 72)
|STRUT RIGHT
|001
|-
|70
|A2203330071
|BOLT STRUT AT FRAME M14X1.5
|002
|-
|70
|A2203330171
|FITTED BOLT FOR ADJUSTING WORK ONLY M14X1.5
|002
|-
|75
|A2203330076
|SHIM STRUT AT FRAME
|004
|-
|80
|N000000003281
|HEXAGON NUT STRUT AT FRAME M14X1,5
|002
|-
|84
|N000000003281
|HEXAGON NUT STRUT TO STEERING KNUCKLE M14X1,5
|002
|-
|85
|A2203309307
LEMFORDER 2099202 (EUR 120)
|TRANSVERSE CONTROL ARM TOP, LEFT (also called Upper Control Arm - UCA)
[[File:Transverse Control Arm or Upper Control Arm.JPG|thumb|none|Transverse control arm top (right and left)]]
[[File:Transverse Control Arm Top or Upper Item 85.jpg|thumb|none|Transverse control arm]]
|001
|-
|85
|A2203309407

LEMFORDER 2099302 (EUR 120)
|TRANSVERSE CONTROL ARM TOP, RIGHT
|001
|-
|90
|A0049908104
|BOLT UPPER CONTROL ARM TO FRAME M10X95
|004
|-
|95
|N913023010002
|NUT UPPER CONTROL ARM TO FRAME M10
|004
|-
|100
|N910113010000
|HEXAGON NUT UPPER TRANSVERSE CONTROL ARM TO STEERING KNUCKLE M10
|002
|-
|110
|A0003300018
|TS BOLT PARTS KIT FOR ADJUSTING WORK ONLY
|004
|}

Steering-related parts (e.g., tie rod) are described in [[steering linkage]] page.

Common issues with the front axle/suspension are:
* Front tyre/s wearing unevenly.
* Front suspension making a creaking sound at low speed indicating possible ball joint failure.
* Looseness indicated by excess movement in ball joint/s. I.e., it feels worn and not firm in its socket.
* Cracks in the control arm (Item 85) bushings and ball joints.
[[File:Circumferential Cracks In Rubber Parts Of Control Arm (85) Bushings.jpg|thumb|none|Cracks in the control arm bushings.]]

If you experience any of the above issues, the following parts are the ones that often need replacing due to wear after about 130,000 Km (80,000 miles).
* The front rear lower control arms (shock mount control arms) are not a "must replace" item. If your car has higher miles (80k+), then it would be a good idea to replace them as well. The outer end of the arm can be quite tricky to force off the ball joint at the knuckle (spindle).
* The thrust arms (torque arms) wear out faster, as they take the brunt force of the vehicle under braking. Once you pull out the thrust arms, take a look at the chassis side joint. If the rubber has clearly failed (lots of cracks), then it may be a good idea to change the shock control arms as well.

==Tips for DIY repairs==
* Make absolutely certain that the car is properly and safely supported. You will be pulling and pushing hard on the car while you are under it.
* It might be helpful to kept all new parts in the freezer for a few days to shrink them before assembly because the fit tolerances are so tight. Remove each part from the freezer until just prior to installing the part.
* Make sure to soak all the bolt/nuts a few hours before you start work with PB blaster or Penetrene.
* In hindsight, it is useful to replaced both the strut (also called Thrust Arm or Torque Strut) and control arms (upper control arm and lower control arm) at the same time because they have similar bushings that undergo the same service environment. Additionally, if doing both control arms, for easier access to a ball joint and ease reinstallation it is helpful to completely remove the Steering Knuckle (also called spindle or hub).
* Take your time disconnecting and reconnecting any of the electrical connectors in the area - its easy to mess these up. Use some masking tape to mark the connections.
* Once the car is jacked up and the wheels removed, release the air pressure on the top of the shock. With the key off, and the vehicle raised up, crack open the fitting at the top of the airmatic strut. Be careful not to allow any dirt in the system. Once everything is connected back up it will just fill back up once the car is turned on.
* When using the Ball Joint Separator tool (and you have a lot of free time), tighten it, walk away. Come back a few hours later, tighten it a little more and walkway. Repeat the steps. The ball joint normally breaks loose due to tension. If you are lucky it will let go after about 30-40 minutes.
* Use a hot air dryer on each stuck nut for about five mins each and they come out easy, the heat breaks down the lock-tight bond.
* The 5mm Alan has blue Loctite from the factory and normally requires an impact grade driver to remove. If you end up rounding the Alan out, (which can easily happen) then the drill must come out and carefully drill out the set screw. Here's how to remove them using a a miniature butane torch [http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/2194369-airmatic-strut-set-screw-removal-heat.html#post10544537]
* Good website for more tips on how to get set screws out and ball joints separated. [http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1943450-big-trouble-controlarmsville-please-help.html]
* If you are doing this DIY with a jack and stands the easiest way is to remove the Steering Knuckle (also called spindle or hub) with the arms attached after removing the brake caliper. Just remove the tie rod end from the knuckle then disconnect the strut from the control arm, followed by releasing the upper control arm from the knuckle then control arms from the chassis. This way it is a lot easier to remove the arms from the knuckle on a work-bench.
* Removing the Steering Knuckle (also called spindle or hub) as a first step really frees up the area for further work. Please note that it is essential to use a 5mm hex key to hold the center stud from turning when removing the 21mm nut at the wheel hub. A long handled key with a Blackhawk brand 21mm ratcheting closed end wrench is useful.
* After strut replacement the correct procedure is to do a ride height adjustment using M-B's Star Diagnosis System (SDS) and then a four wheel alignment, failure to do so will result in bad tyre wear. (not verified)
* As long as you do not extend or shorten the Tie-Rod, from the inner tie rod, after it is disconnected from the steering knuckle, there is no need for alignment. So, leave the Tie-rod alone after you separate it from the knuckle.
* When you are done with repair, put the wheels on and carefully lower the vehicle back down with the weight of the car resting on the suspension. '''THEN''', tighten the airmatic fittings and turn the car on. The vehicle should return back to its normal height. Only tighten the lower control arm bolt to the vehicle fitting with the vehicle weight fully on the wheels (or lower the car onto car ramps), as this will prevent the rubber from being torqued and tearing in the lower control arm.

==Special Tools Required==
[http://w220.ee/Special_Tools Special Tools]

==How to Replace Front Lower Control Arm Bushings==
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1810897-02-s500-lower-control-arm-bushings.html

== Fitted Bolt ==
The Transverse Control Arm and Thrust Arm uses standard bolt A2203330071 fitted at factory.
After an accident or through years of heavy use the chassis of the vehicle deforms which causes problems for suspension geometry adjustment.
For more flexible suspension adjustment a fitted bolt A2203330171 can be installed. See [[wheel alignment]].
[[File:W220_A2203330171_fitted_bolt.jpg|thumb|none|Fitted bolt (A2203330171)]]

== Replace supporting joint ==


{|
|
* 5 - Steering knuckle
* 7 - Support joint
|[[File:W220_Replace_supporting_joint_front_suspension.jpg]]
|}

# Remove steering knuckle (5)
# Check supporting joint (7)
# Press supporting joint (7) out of steering knuckle (5)
# Install in the reverse order

''The joint can be pressed out without completely removing the steering knuckle (only by disconnecting the upper control arm), but it is much more convenient to do it on a removed steering knuckle.''

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPw5Y3fwmqM|320|left|Pressing out supporting joint.|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qo2P10X2IjM|320|left|Pressing out supporting joint.|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jntvXHKUYTE|320|left|Replacing lower ball joint.|frame}}
|}

This video shows in detail how to replace the Ball Joint outside of the car (with the steering knuckle removed from the car):
{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbZi4Xrxj-U|320|left|Replace Lower Ball Joint (By Masood)|frame}}
|[[File:W220_front_right_ball_joint_pressing_in.jpg|thumb|none|Pressing in the ball join]]
|}

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1519699-w220-ball-joint-replacement-diy-tutorial.html

== Remove/install torque strut at front axle ==


{|
|
* 5 - Steering knuckle
* 18 - Torque strut
* 18a - Screw
* 18b - Nut
* 18c - Nut
* 18d - Rubber bushing
|[[File:W220_Remove_install_torque_strut_at_front_axle.jpg]]
|}

# Lift vehicle on lifting platform.
# Remove front wheel
# Press radius rod (18) out of steering knuckle. Installation: Replace self-locking nut (18b).
# Detach front engine compartment paneling from the inner paneling of the fender
# Swing back the inner paneling of the fender
# Unscrew nut (18c), pull out bolt (18a) and remove strut rod (18) from front axle carrier.
# If repair kit installed: The bolt (18a) may not be twisted. Always counterhold bolt (18a) when loosening or tightening nut (18c), otherwise the lock tabs for caster adjustment in the rubber mount (18d) will be sheared off.
# Installation: Screw on nut (18c) of bolt (18a) until it abuts, however do not tighten yet so that the rubber mount (18d) of the strut rod (18) can twist when the vehicle is rocked to settle the suspension. Tighten nut (18c) with the vehicle in curb position.
# Check rubber boot on ball joint of torque strut (18) for damage. If damaged the strut rod (18) should be replaced.
# Check rubber mount (18d) of torque strut (18) for damage. If damaged the strut rod (18) should be replaced.
# Install in the reverse order. Installation: Only tighten nuts (18b, 18c) in the ready-to-drive condition.

Torque specifications:
* Self-locking nut, torque strut to front axle carrier: Stage 1: Nm 80, Stage 2: Angle 120.
* Self-locking nut, radius rod to steering knuckle: Stage 1: Nm 50, Stage 2: Angle 60.

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6LKJj6-6qY|320|left|Torque strut replacement.|frame}}
|}

== Remove/install spring control arm on front axle ==


{|
|
* 5 - Steering knuckle
* 18 - Torque strut
* 18b - Nut
|[[File:W220_Remove_install_spring_control_arm_on_front_axle.jpg|200px]]
|}

{|
|Shown on spring control arm without thrust plates:
* 17 - Spring control arm
* 17a - Screw
* 17b - Self-locking nut
* 17c - Nut
* 23 - Link rod
* 23c - Nut
* 40 - Suspension strut
* 40c - Bolts
|[[File:W220_Remove_install_lower_control_arm_on_front_axle.jpg|600px]]
|}

Remove/install:
# Raise vehicle with vehicle lift
# Remove front wheel
# Detach torque strut (18) from steering knuckle (5). Installation: Install new nut (18b). Check rubber boot on ball head of torque strut (18) for damage. If rubber boot is damaged, install new torque strut (18). ''Alternatively, it might be easier to detach upper control arm from steering knuckle.''
# Vehicles with [[Airmatic|AIRmatic]] (semi-active air suspension), code 489: Unscrew nut (23c) and pry link rod (23) off spring control arm (17). Installation: Press link rod (23) onto hexagon of stabilizer bar pivot bushing at spring control arm (17). Check rubber boot of stabilizer bar pivot bushing of link rod (23) at spring control arm (17) for damage, install new stabilizer bar pivot bushing if necessary.
# Remove bolts (40c) from spring strut (40). Installation: After tightening the bolts (40c) must be flush with the suspension strut (40) or slightly recessed.
# Using a suitable lever, loosen spring strut (40) at ball joint. Check rubber boot of ball joint for damage and install new spring control arm (17) if necessary.
# Press spring control arm (17) out of steering knuckle (5). Installation: Replace self-locking nut (17b).
# Vehicles with Active Body Control ([[ABC]]) (option code [[Option_codes##487_-_ABC_SUSPENSION_.28ACTIVE_BODY_CONTROL.29|487 - ABC SUSPENSION (ACTIVE BODY CONTROL)]]), when removing right spring control arm (17). Remove the pressure-supply circuit's valve body from the right side of the front subframe and tie it to one side.
# Remove spring control arm (17) from front subframe. Do not twist bolt (17a). Always counter the bolt (17a) when slackening the nut (17c), otherwise the locating tabs for camber adjustment in the rubber bushing of spring control arm (17) will be sheared off. Installation: Screw nut (17c) all the way onto bolt (17a) but do not tighten, so that the rubber bushing of spring control arm (17) can turn when the suspension is compressed. Do not tighten nut (17c) until in ready-to-drive condition.
# Install in the reverse order
# Perform wheel alignment check

Torque specifications:
* Front axle stabilizer bar, Nut, link rod to spring control arm: 150 Nm
* Suspension struts, Bolt, front suspension strut to spring control arm: 20 Nm
* Wheel location, hub: Self-locking nut, track control arm to stub axle: Stage 1: 50 Nm, Stage 2: 60°
* Wheel location, hub: Self-locking nut, spring control arm to front axle carrier: Stage 1: 80 Nm, Stage 2: 120°

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhWV5mIgG3Y|320|left|Replace L Control Arm and Torque Strut (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

== Remove/install steering knuckle ==


{|
|
* 5 - Steering knuckle
* 8 - Follower joint
* 10a - Tie rod joint
* 17 - Spring control arm
* 18 - Torque strut
* L6/1 - Left front rpm sensor
|[[File:W220_remove_install_steering_knuckle.jpg]]
|}

# Remove front wheel
# Remove brake disc
# Remove front wheel hub ''(actually not needed)''
# Detach brake cover plate
# Detach left front rpm sensor (L6/1) from steering knuckle (5)
# Press tie rod joint (10a) out of steering knuckle (5)
# Press follower joint (8) out of steering knuckle (5)
# Press radius rod (18) out of steering knuckle (5). Do not detach torque strut (18) from the front axle carrier.
# Press spring control arm (17) out of steering knuckle (5). Do not detach spring control arm (17) from the front axle carrier.
# Check supporting joint
# Install in the reverse order
# Before starting engine, actuate brake pedal several times until the pressure is built up and maintained in the brake system.
# Only tighten nuts and bolts of chassis components when vehicle is in a ready-to-drive condition.

Torque specifications:
* Self-locking nut, track control arm to stub axle: Stage 1: Nm 50, Stage 2: ° 60.
* Self-locking nut, radius rod to steering knuckle: Stage 1: Nm 50, Stage 2: ° 60.
* Self-locking nut, upper wishbone follower joint to steering knuckle: Stage 1: Nm 20, Stage 2: ° 90.
* Self-locking bolt, front axle rpm sensor to steering knuckle: Nm 25
* Self-locking nut, tie rod to steering knuckle: Stage 1: Nm 50, Stage 2: ° 60
* Bolt brake cover plate to steering knuckle / wheel carrier: M6 Nm 10

==Inspect front axle joint for play, inspect rubber boots==


{|
|
* 5 - Steering knuckle
* 7f - Rubber boot
* 17 - Spring control arm
* 18 - Torque strut
* 18f - Rubber boot
|[[File:W220_front_axle_left_side.jpg]]
|}

# Check rubber boot (7f) on supporting joint for leakage and condition. If the rubber boot (7f) is leaky, replace supporting ball joint (7) or lower control arm.
# Check front axle supporting joints
# Check rubber boot (18f) on ball joint of torque strut (18) for leaktightness and condition. If the rubber boot (18f) is leaky, replace strut rod (18).
# Check rubber boot on follower joint for leakage and condition. If rubber boot is leaky (e.g. grease escape) replace upper transverse control arm or upper ball joint.
# Check follower joint for play. If there is play in the upper ball joint, replace upper transverse control arm or upper ball joint.

=== Checking supporting joint and follower joint of steering knuckle mount (removed) ===


{|
|
* 7f - Supporting joint rubber boot
* 8f - Follower joint rubber boot
|[[File:W220_check_supporting_joing_steering_knuckle.jpg]][[File:W220_check_follower_joint_steering_knuckle.jpg]]
|}

# Move the ball pin in all directions with an approximately 150 mm long pipe. The ball pin should move without play (without seizing), and should not cause any creaking noise.
# Check rubber boot (7f) on supporting joint for cracks and damage. Replace supporting joint if necessary.
# Check rubber boot (8f) on follower joint for cracks and damage. If necessary, replace follower joint or upper transverse control arm. For upper transverse control arms made of die-cast aluminum the upper transverse control arms must be replaced. For upper transverse control arms made of sheet metal aluminum the follower joint must be replaced.

=== Checking follower joint of steering knuckle mount (installed) ===


{|
|
* 6 - Upper transverse control arm
* 8f - Rubber boot
|[[File:W220_Check_follower_joint_for_play.jpg]]
|}

# Raise vehicle with lifting platform
# Check rubber boot (8f) for signs of cracks and damage and, if necessary, replace upper transverse control arm or follower joint. For upper transverse control arms made of die-cast aluminum the upper transverse control arms must be replaced. For upper transverse control arms made of sheet metal aluminum the follower joint must be replaced.
# Check play of follower joint and, if necessary, replace upper transverse control arm or follower joint. Feel the ball joint for signs of play while forcefully pushing and pulling the front wheel. For upper transverse control arms made of die-cast aluminum the upper transverse control arms must be replaced. For upper transverse control arms made of sheet metal aluminum the follower joint must be replaced.
# Check rubber boot (8f) for leaktightness and condition. If rubber boot is leaking (e.g. grease leaking out) install new upper transverse control arm (6).

=== Check front axle supporting joints ===


{|
|
* 7 - Support joint
|[[File:W220_Check_front_axle_supporting_joints_1.jpg]] [[File:W220_Check_front_axle_supporting_joints_2.jpg]]
|}

# Check rubber boot of supporting joint (7) for cracks and damage
# Check play in supporting joint (7).
# With pit or drive-on platform with guard edge check play by moving the front wheel up and down.
## Checking by hand: Replace supporting joint if play is perceptible.
## Checking with dial indicator: Replace supporting joint if play > 0.6 mm.
# On vehicle lift check play by moving the front wheel up and down while simultaneously feeling the supporting joint (an assistant is required). Replace supporting joint if play is perceptible.

== Remove/install upper control arm ==


[[File:W220_remove_install_upper_control_arm.png]]

# Remove front wheel
# Separate plug connection from level sensor.
# Detach link rod (arrow) from level sensor on the upper transverse control arm (6)
# Press follower joint (8) out of steering knuckle (5)
# Secure steering knuckle (5) with wire to prevent it from swinging away
# When removing the right upper transverse control arm, detach coolant expansion reservoir and put to one side. Do not detach the coolant hoses.
# Remove upper control arm (6) from frame. Installation: Do not tighten nuts until vehicle is ready to roll. Counterhold nut with suitable box wrench.
# Check follower joint
# Install in the reverse order

Torque specifications:
* Self-locking nut of upper wishbone on front end: Nm 50
* Self-locking nut, upper wishbone follower joint to steering knuckle: Stage 1: Nm 20, Stage 2: ° 90
* Nut, level sensor link rod to upper control arm: Nm 10

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2HS41mJ0qA|320|left|Automotive Front Suspension Ball Joint Removal Tip|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4dWy53BW8k|320|left|2002 S430 front right upper control arm removal|frame}}
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_front_left_upper_control_arm_ball_joint_removal.jpg|thumb|none|Detaching level sensor and ball joint]]
|[[File:W220_front_left_upper_control_arm_attachment_bolt_1.jpg|thumb|none|Bolt attaching the left-side upper control arm (1)]]
|[[File:W220_front_left_upper_control_arm_attachment_bolt_2.jpg|thumb|none|Bolt attaching the left-side upper control arm (2)]]
|}
{|
|[[File:W220_front_right_upper_control_arm_attachment_bolt_1.jpg|thumb|none|Bolt attaching the right-side upper control arm (1)]]
|[[File:W220_front_right_upper_control_arm_attachment_bolt_2.jpg|thumb|none|Bolt attaching the right-side upper control arm (2)]]
|}
=== Replacing bushings for upper control arm ===

MB is not selling bushings for upper control arm separately. However, FAG is selling bushing under a part number 829026210 (10 EUR).

Pushing out the original LEMFÖRDER bushing is quite easy as the compression range for the bushing is just a few millimeters. FAG bushing has a much larger compression range (see below).

In practice, it is unlikely that bushing replacement would be useful, because the ball joint (which cannot be replaced) usually goes out of order sooner than the rubber bushings.

{|
|[[File:W220_upper_control_arm_bushing_lemforder_vs_fag_829026210.jpg|thumb|none|LEMFÖRDER bushing vs FAG bushing]]
|[[File:W220_upper_control_arm_LEMFORDER_bushing_compression_startpoint.jpg|thumb|none|Compression startpoint for LEMFÖRDER bushing]]
|[[File:W220_upper_control_arm_FAG_bushing_compression_startpoint.jpg|thumb|none|Compression startpoint for FAG bushing]]
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_upper_control_arm_pushing_out_bushing.jpg|thumb|none|Pushing out bushing]]
|[[File:W220_upper_control_arm_compressing_in_bushing.jpg|thumb|none|Compressing in bushing]]
|}

== Remove/install front wheel hub ==


{|
|
* 023 - Slide hammer puller
* 5a - Stub axle
* 9 - Front wheel hub
* 9d - Clamp nut
* 9e - Hub cover
* 9i - Hexagon socket head screw
* 9m - Outer tapered roller bearing
* 35 - Brake caliper dust shield
|[[File:W220_remove_install_front_wheel_hub.png]]
|}

# Only tighten nuts and bolts of chassis components when vehicle is in a ready-to-drive condition.
# Remove front wheel
# Remove brake disc
# Pull off hub cap (9e)
# Undo hexagon socket head screw (9i), remove clamp nut (9d) and remove outer tapered roller bearing (9m). Installation: Adjust wheel bearing play.
# Pull off front wheel hub cover (9). If the front wheel hub (9) is seized, detach AR33.20-P-0310-01A the front wheel hub (9) using a slide hammer puller (023). Installation: Coat the radial sealing ring with grease and, if necessary, pack the space between the lip and outer tapered roller bearing (9m) with grease. Push the front wheel hub (9) with inner tapered roller bearing and radial sealing ring onto the steering knuckle spindle (5a). Installation: Fill the front wheel hub (9) with grease.

Check:
# Check brake cover plate (35). Replace if necessary. Installation: When using a new brake cover plate (35), ensure that the rubber grommet that seals the wheelspeed sensor socket is pushed onto the wheelspeed sensor.
# Check steering knuckle spindle (5a) for discoloration and wear, and check bearing surface of radial sealing ring. Discoloration can be caused by the excessive heat that can result from incorrect bearing adjustment: Replace stub axle.
# Check front wheel hub (9). Check tapped holes and rotor teeth for damage, and if necessary: Install new front wheel hub (9).
# Check the lateral and radial runout of the front wheel hub (9). If permitted measurements are exceeded: Install new front wheel hub (9).
# Inspecting tapered roller bearing and bearing races. Damaged bearings cannot be replaced ''(actually can)''; if necessary: Install new front wheel hub (9).
# Install in the reverse order

* Front wheel hub flange lateral runout: mm 0.03
* Radial runout on disk wheel alignment fitting of front wheel hub: mm 0.05

=== Inspecting tapered roller bearing and bearing races ===


The tapered roller bearings and bearing races can be used again if:
* the tapered rollers and bearing races have a smooth, grey running track
* no discoloration (from severe overheating, etc.) is found.
* the roller cage and the face ends of the tapered rollers are not damaged.
* the bearing races sit tight in the wheel hub.

The tapered roller bearings and bearing races cannot be interchanged. If damage is present, a new front wheel hub must be installed. The replacement front wheel hub is supplied complete with both bearings and sealing ring.

== Wheel bearings ==
{|
|[[File:W220 Front Wheel Bearing Main Parts.JPG|thumb|none|Main parts of front wheel bearing]]
|[[File:W220 Front Wheel Hub Rear View.JPG|thumb|none|Front wheel hub rear view]]
|[[File:W220 Front Wheel Hub Seal and ABS Tone Ring.JPG|thumb|none|ABS slotted disc (also called a tone ring) and the hub seal]]
|}

Issues:
* Bad bearings- need replacement
* Loose bearing nut, need adjustment
* Repacking of bearings

=== Part numbers ===
* Outer wheel bearing: A0029806502
* Inner wheel bearing: A1409810305

Hub seal and ABS wheel speed slotted disc (ABS tone ring):
* A0229979747 (OE) - EUR 40
* FEBI BILSTEIN 24994 - EUR 3

Bearing kits:
* SNR R151.35 - EUR 25
* SKF VKBA3565 - EUR 23

[[File:W220_front_bearing_kit_SNR_R151.35.jpg|thumb|none|SNR Wheel Bearing Kit Front (SNR R151.35)]]

Wheel hub with bearings preinstalled:
* OE A2203300725 (308 EUR)
* FEBI BILSTEIN 30945 (100 EUR)

[[File:W220_FEBI_BILSTEIN_30945_wheel_hub.jpg|thumb|none|FEBI BILSTEIN 30945 wheel hub]]

=== Replacing wheel bearings ===

#Raise car to full height.
#Chock rear wheels
#Loosen front wheel nuts.
#Jack up front of car and place on jack stands.
#Remove front wheel
#Remove brake calliper
#Support calliper to remove strain on abs wheel speed and brake wear sensor cables
#Remove Torx bolt securing brake disc to hub
#Remove brake disc.
#Remove dust cap. (For installation, fill the interior of the dust cap with high temperature wheel bearing grease. A smear of silicon will also help prevent any grease from leaking out and contaminating the wheel hub cap.)
#Undo Locking bolt on axle nut.
#Remove axle nut (For installation tighten nut and then back off to achieve 10 to 20 micrometres axial play in brake disc as measured by a magnetic base dial gauge clamped to the disc and measuring end of the axle.)
#Remove wheel hub. (If you are lucky the inner bearing and seal will come out with the hub.) (For installation ensure that there is no grease on the ABS tone ring and ensure that the hub is presented to the axle exactly square so that the inner bearing doesn’t cock on the axle shaft.)
#Clean off any remaining grease from axle.
#If necessary use and angle grinder to grind away part of the inner bearing until it is able to be split and removed from the axle.
#Do a final clean-up of the axle. (For installation, thoroughly coat the axle with high temperature wheel bearing grease before installing the hub.)
#Using a hammer and drift, knock off the ABS tone ring.
#Clean-up the wheel up of any old grease. (For installation, fill the interior of the wheel hub with high temperature wheel bearing grease.)
#Using a suitable diameter piece of bar stock, press out the outer bearing.
#Using a suitable diameter piece of bar stock, press out the inner bearing.
#Clean up the wheel hub.
#Pack the new bearings with high temperature wheel bearing grease. (An easy method is to place half a cup of grease in the corner of a plastic bag. Drop in a bearing and kneed thoroughly until the bearing is saturated with grease.)
#[[File:Packing Wheel Bearings with Grease.jpg|thumb|none|Packing wheel bearings with grease]]
#Install in the reverse order and repeat for the other front wheel.

''When hammering in ABS Tone Ring, make sure to not bend the ring otherwise wheel speed sensor will not be able to read the rotation speed.''

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_Pu5BNUX5I|320|left|Bearing replacement.|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/zBpBaqU9kVs|320|center|W220 Front Wheel Hub Re-Haul (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

==== Bearing grease ====

High temperature antifriction bearing grease (NLGI grade 2). Passenger cars: Front wheel hubs


Product name (Customer, town/country):
* MB 265.1 Hochtemp-Wälzlagerfett A 002 989 00 51 (Daimler AG, Stuttgart/Germany)
* ARAL Radlagerfett (Aral Aktiengesellschaft, Hamburg, Germany)
* AVIA LITHOPLEX 2 EP (Avia Mineralöl-AG, Munich, Germany)
* Axellence 152 S Green (Axel Christiernsson International, NOL/SWEDEN)
* AXELLENCE 1525 EPS Green (Axel Christiernsson International, NOL/SWEDEN)
* Caltex Delo Grease ESI (Chevron Global Lubricants, GENT/ZWIJNAARDE, BELGIUM)
* Castrol LMX Li-Komplexfett (Castrol Limited, SWINDON, UNITED KINGDOM)
* Chevron Delo Grease ESI (Chevron Global Lubricants, GENT/ZWIJNAARDE, BELGIUM)
* Fuchs Renolit LX-PEP 2 (Fuchs Petrolub AG, Mannheim, Germany)
* Hytex EP 2 LF (Chevron Global Lubricants, GENT/ZWIJNAARDE, BELGIUM)
* KAJO-Wälzlagerfett LC 002 (Kajo-Chemie GmbH, Anröchte, Germany)
* LiLube Plus (SAF Holland GmbH, Aschaffenburg/Germany)
* MOTOREX FETT 3000 (Bucher AG Langenthal, Langenthal, Switzerland)
* RAVENOL Hot Red Grease HRG 2 (Ravensberger Schmierstoffvertrieb GmbH, Werther, Germany)
* Renolit LX-PEP 2 DC (Fuchs Petrolub AG, Mannheim, Germany)
* rhenus LKR 25 (Rhenus Lub. GmbH & Co KG, Mönchengladbach, Germany)
* Siebert high-temperature grease 5611 (Siebert GmbH, Mönchengladbach/Germany)
* Texaco Starplex EP 2 (Chevron Global Lubricants, GENT/ZWIJNAARDE, BELGIUM)

Unlisted products satisfying 265.1 specification:
* FEBI BILSTEIN 21909 (EUR 4)
* SWAG 10 92 1909

[[File:FEBI BILSTEIN 21909.jpg]]

=== Adjust wheel bearing play ===


{|
|
* 015 - Dial indicator holder
* 022 - Dial indicator
* 9d - Clamp nut
* 9e - Hub cover
* 9i - Hexagon socket head screw
* 48a - Wheel bolt
|[[File:W220_Adjust_wheel_bearing_play.png]]
|[[File:W220_adjust_wheel_bearing_play_youtube.jpg|500px]]
|}

Removing:
# Remove front wheel
# Turn-in wheel bolt (48a) opposite from brake rotor attachment bolt (to immobilize brake rotor).
# Press brake pads back into brake caliper
# Pull off hub cap (9e) using removal and installation tool

Checking:
# To set up the wheel bearing loosen hexagon socket bolt (9i) and tighten clamp nut (9d) lightly whilst turning the front wheel hub.
# Mount dial indicator (022) with dial indicator holder (015) on the brake disk
# Adjust wheel bearing play by turning (arrow) the clamping nut (9d) in stages while pushing and pulling the brake disk firmly back and forth. Do not twist or tilt the wheel hub during the measurement. Correct measurement is only possible by pulling and pushing parallel to the wheel axle. Incorrect measurement will result in the set wheel bearing play being too small. This can then lead to wheel bearing damage.
# Tighten the Allen bolt (9i), check the wheel bearing end float again.
# Remove the dial indicator (022) with dial indicator holder (015).

Install:
# Fill hub cap (9e) with high-temperature roller bearing grease.
# Mount hub cover (9e)
# Remove wheel bolt (48a)
# Mount front wheel

* Wheel bearing play at front axle: mm 0.01...0.02
* Filling capacity: Hub cover: g 15, Hub (total capacity): g 95

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TY0yq7lnrbQ|320|left|Adjusting wheel bearing play (W220).|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VokNRipkvtU|320|left|Adjusting wheel bearing play.|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddxsWrTWLUI|320|left|How to replace wheel hub and adjust bearings|frame}}
|}

=== Use of aftermarket inner wheel bearings ===
'''WARNING''': Do not use aftermarket inner bearings without carefully checking that they perfectly match a genuine M-B bearing.

In particular notice the shape of the inner shoulder on the inner bearing on the side that is in contact with the axle back flange. Genuine M-B bearings have a small radiused shoulder. Some aftermarket bearings have a square shoulder. (The next diagram shows a complete but good M-B inner bearing compared with aq bad inner bearing. Only the race is shown as the bad bearing had to be destroyed by being ground with an angle grinder to produce a wafer thin section to allow it to be removed. See scorch mark where the split occurred.)

{|
|[[File:W220 Front Wheel Inner Bearing Showing Radiused Shoulder.JPG|thumb|none|Inner bearing showing radiused shoulder]]
|[[File:W220 Front Wheel Axle Showing Radiused Edge.JPG|thumb|none|Axle showing radiused edge]]
|}

The radiused shoulder on the inner bearing fits neatly against the radiused edge on the axle flange. If an inner bearing with a square edge is used it will interfere with this radiused edge and '''the hub will not be in the correct position'''. The area of interference is shown in the next diagram.

The consequence of using an inner bearing with a square shoulder is that the wheel hub sits slightly proud by about 1mm to 2mm when installed on the axle. This also means that the clearance between the ABS tone ring and the ABS magnetic sensor is increased by the same amount and causes the speed reading sesnor to not work at all or not work properly. The magnetic sensor needs to be in very close proximity to the slotted ABS tone ring to generate adequate speed signals.

If the car is driven with this situation, after a few minutes, the instrument cluster will show '''ESP Failure''' and '''ABS Failure''' messages along with '''Drive to the nearest workshop''' being indicated.

If the gap is too wide, analysis with Star DAS will show that there is zero or an "implausible" speed signal generated by the front wheel ABS sensor.

The fix is to use genuine inner wheel bearings for the front wheels.

== Wheel speed sensor ==



Shown on model 203

{|
|[[File:W220_wheel_speed_sensor.jpg]]
|
* L6/1 Left front wheel speed sensor
* (L6/2) Right front wheelspeed sensor
* L6/3 Left rear wheel speed sensor
* (L6/4) Right rear wheelspeed sensor
|}

The front wheelspeed sensors (L6/1 and L6/2) are mounted on the front steering knuckle assemblies.
The rear wheelspeed sensors (L6/3 and L6/4) are installed on the rear wheel carriers.

It is active sensor consisting of a casing and a sensor element relying on a magnetoresistive effect to monitor rotation rate. The task of the sensor is to supply the current wheel speed to the ESP control module.


===Function of the active wheel speed sensor===

The diagram shows the current path through
the active wheel speed sensor during an
acceleration phase.

{|
|[[File:W220_wheel_speed_sensor_signal.png]]
|
* 1 - Active sensor
* 2 - Reluctor with mutiple trigger points
* 3 - Sample of signal output from wheelspeed sensor
|}
The strength and direction of an external magnetic field causes a change in the internal resistance inside the sensor. An electronic analysis system accommodated in the sensor produces a square-wave signal, whose frequency is proportional to the rotational speed but whose amplitude is constant. This signal is received by the relevant dynamic handling control system and transmitted over the CAN.

A reluctor with multiple trigger points generates the external magnetic field.
This consists of an elastomer plastic containing metallic particles.
These are aligned by a special magnetization method so as to produce various magnets whose polarity at the circumference alternates from north to south.

=== Parts ===
* A2205400117 (OE) - left/right (~EUR 110).
* FEBI 27857 (~EUR 40)
[[File:W220_front_wheel_speed_sensor.jpg|thumb|none|W220 front wheel speed sensor]]

=== Remove/install left front or right rpm sensor ===


Shown on model 220

{|
|[[File:W220_remove_install_front_rpm_sensor_1.jpg]]
|
* 6a - Screw
* L6/1 - Left front rpm sensor
* L6/2 - Right front rpm sensor
* X62/6 - Right front axle multiple circuit junction connector, major assembly compartment
* X62/7 - Left front axle multiple circuit junction connector, major assembly compartment
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_remove_install_front_rpm_sensor_2.jpg]]
|
* 1 - Chafe protection (model 230 without code (P99) Special model "AMG Black Series")
* 2 - Steering knuckle
* L6/1 - Left front rpm sensor
* L6/2 - Right front rpm sensor
|}

Remove/install:
# Remove bolt (6a).
# Take out left front rpm sensor (L6/1) or right front rpm sensor (L6/2). Installation: Apply light coating of grease to bore in steering knuckle (2). Hot lubricating paste.
# Unlock and disconnect left front axle multiple circuit junction connector, major assembly compartment (X62/7) or right front axle multiple circuit junction connector, major assembly compartment (X62/6). Press clip in direction of arrow.
# Install in the reverse order.
# Installation: Ensure that the electrical feed line to the rpm sensor has sufficient play. The vehicle suspension must be able to fully compress and rebound without damaging the feed line. The feed line should not chafe at any point, as this could lead to system failure.
# Installation: Model 230 without code (P99) Special model "AMG Black Series", observe installation position: The chafe protection (1) must be screwed to the front rpm sensor as shown here. It must not be mounted between the rpm sensor and steering knuckle (2).
# Installation: On model 215, 220 check rotor of wheel hub for damage. Pay attention to cleanliness of magnetic tip.
# Connect STAR DIAGNOSIS, read out fault memory and erase if necessary

Torque specification:
* Self-locking bolt, front axle rpm sensor to steering knuckle: 25 Nm

''Front wheel speed sensor can be replaced without removing the wheel. To get access the steering wheel must be turned out as much as possible and [[Airmatic]] raised setting must set.''

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/xslAnSERqBI|320|center|W220 Front Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

=== Remove/install left rear or right rpm sensor ===

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LS80FwpGX5U|320|left|Rear wheel speed sensor replacement.|frame}}
|}

== Remove/install stabilizer bar on front axle ==

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/xLv5pzF8Gk4?si=yAyw1JeuJSxCyyQl|320|center|W220 Replace Stabilizer Bar and Link Rods (By Masood)|frame}}
|}


{|
|[[File:W220_replace_stabilizer_bar.jpg|700px|]]
|
* 10 - Stabilizer bar
* 17 - Spring control arm
* 21b - Retaining clip
* 21e - Bolts
* 23 - Link rod
* 23b - Nut
* 23c - Nut
* 23d - Screw
|}

# Raise vehicle with vehicle lift
# Remove bottom engine compartment paneling (vehicles with gasoline engine)
# Remove bottom section of soundproofing (vehicles with disel engine)
# Unscrew nut (23c) and pry link rod (23) off spring control arm (17). Check rubber boot of stabilizer bar pivot bushing in spring control arm (17) for damage and replace stabilizer bar pivot bushing if necessary. If the rubber boot of the stabilizer bar pivot bushing is damaged, the stabilizer bar pivot bushing (and not the spring control arm) has to be replaced. Installation: Press link rod (23) onto hexagon of stabilizer bar pivot bushing in spring control arm (17).
# Remove bolts (21e) and remove retaining bracket (21b). The threaded connection has been changed from M8 to M10. When using new parts the nut M8 possibly fitted in the frame-type integral support is to be replaced by a nut M10. Drill the hole in the frame-type integral support accordingly and protect against corrosion.
# Take off torsion bar (10). Check rubber mount of stabilizer bar (10) for damage and wear and replace stabilizer bar (10) if necessary. The rubber mounts are molded onto the torsion bar (10).
# Unscrew nut (23b) and remove link rod (23) from torsion bar (10). Installation: Tighten nut (23b) only when vehicle is in ready-to-drive condition. To do so, counterhold bolt (23d) with shortened Allen wrench (shop-made). Turn steering if necessary. Check rubber mount of link rod (23) for damage and replace link rod (23) if necessary.
# Install in the reverse order

Torque specifications:
* Nut, link rod to spring control arm: 150 Nm
* Nut, link rod to stabilizer bar: 150 Nm
* Bolt, torsion bar to front end: 40 Nm

== Remove/install front stabilizer bar link rod ==


{|
|[[File:W220_replace_front_stabilizer_bar_link_rod.jpg|500px|]]
|
Shown on left side of vehicle (W211):
* 23 - Link rod
* 23a - Nut
* 23b - Nut
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_stabilizer_link_hex_screw.jpg|thumb|none|Stabilizer screw (hex 11mm)]]
|[[File:W220_11m_allen_hex_wrench_shortened.jpg|thumb|none|Shortened 11mm Allen hex wrench]]
|[[File:W220_unscrewing_stabilizer_bar_counterholding.jpg|thumb|none|Unscrewing nut (23b) by counterholding]]
|}

# Lift vehicle on lifting platform.
# Unscrew nut (23a) of link rod (23) from stabilizer bar pivot bushing. Do not damage rubber boot of stabilizer bar pivot bushing. If damaged, replace stabilizer bar pivot bushing. If the rubber boot of the stabilizer bar pivot bushing is damaged, the stabilizer bar pivot bushing (and not the spring control arm) has to be replaced.
# Unscrew nut (23b) of link rod (23) from stabilizer bar using box wrench bit. To do so, counterhold threaded bolt with shortened Allen ''hex'' wrench ''11mm'' (shop-made). Turn steering if necessary. Installation: Replace self-locking nut (23b).
# Remove link rod (23) of torsion bar. ''This may require jacking up the spring control arm.''
# Install in the reverse order

=== Replacing stabilizer bar bushings ===
Replacing bushings instead of the entire stabilizer will save ~10 EUR per stabilizer.

For pressing bushings in and out, M14 screw with appropriate caps can be used.
* For pressing out: 44/34 pressing cap; 62/52 receiving cap.
* For pressing in: 48/38 pressing cap; 62/52 receiving cap.

{|
|[[File:W220_pressing_out_stailizer_link_bushings.jpg|thumb|none|Pressing out bushings]]
|[[File:W220_stailizer_link_bushings_pressed_out.jpg|thumb|none|Stabilizer link with old and new bushings]]
|[[File:W220_pressing_in_stailizer_link_bushings.jpg|thumb|none|Pressing in bushings]]
|}

== Install new stabilizer bar pivot bushing in spring control arm ==


{|
|[[File:W220_install_stabilizer_bar_pivot_bushing.jpg|600px|]]
|
Shown on model 220:
* 5 - Steering knuckle
* 8 - Stabilizer bar pivot bushing
* 9 - Rubber boot
* 10 - Tie rod
* 17 - Spring control arm
* 18 - Torque strut
* 19 - Rubber boot
* 23 - Link rod
* 23b - Nut
* 23c - Nut
* 23d - Screw
|}

# Remove front wheel
# Detach torque strut (18) from steering knuckle (5). Installation: Replace self-locking nut. Check rubber boot on ball head of torque strut (18) for damage. If rubber boot is damaged, install new torque strut (18).
# Remove track rod (10) from steering knuckle (5). Installation: Replace self-locking nut.
# Loosen nut (23b). To do so, counterhold bolt (23d) with shortened Allen wrench (shop-made). Turn steering if necessary. Installation: Tighten nut (23b) only when vehicle is in ready-to-drive condition.
# Unscrew nut (23c), detach link rod (23) from spring control arm (17) and swing vertically upward. Installation: Press link rod (23) onto hexagon of stabilizer bar pivot bushing (8) on spring control arm (17).
# Remove rubber boot (9) and wire fasteners of torsion bar pivot bushing (8). When pressing out the torsion bar pivot bushing (8) with the rubber boot installed the special tool is damaged due to too high press-out force.
# Press stabilizer bar pivot bushing (8) out of spring control arm (17)
# Checking: Check rubber boot (19) of ball joint in spring control arm (17) for damage. If rubber boot (19) is damaged, install new spring control arm (17).
# Checking: Check rubber mount of spring control arm (17) for damage. Replace rubber mount if necessary.
# Install in the reverse order. Installation: Tighten nuts and bolts of chassis components only when vehicle is in ready-to-drive condition.

=== Press out/press in stabilizer bar pivot bushing ===


{|
|[[File:W220_stabilizator_pivot_bushing_press1.jpg|500px|]]
|}
{|
|[[File:W220_stabilizator_pivot_bushing_press2.jpg|500px|]]
|}
Pressing out:
# Do not use an impact wrench or other compressed-air tool otherwise the threaded spindle on the puller (2) will be damaged.
# The threaded spindle on puller (2) is only used for retensioning and not for pressing out the stabilizer bar pivot bushing (8).
# It is essential to remove the rubber boot (and its wire fasteners) of the torsion bar pivot bushing (8), otherwise the puller (2) will be damaged as a result of the high press-out forces.
# Press out stabilizer bar pivot bushing (8) with puller (2), press (1), press-out sleeve (2.1) and counterholder (2.3) from the spring control arm (17) opposite to the direction of travel.
# Attach the counterholder (2.3) correctly on the stabilizer bar pivot bushing (8) (see picture). The bore in the counterholder (2.3) must be seated centrally over the stabilizer bar pivot bushing (8). The removal and installation tool 220589074300 contains: Puller (2); Press-out sleeve (2.1); Counterholder (2.3).

Pressing in:
# Clean mounting hole in the spring control arm (17).
# Using puller (2), press (1), press-in sleeve (2.2) and counterholder (2.3) press stabilizer bar pivot bushing (8) into spring control arm (17) in the direction of travel.

==Torque Specifications==
Torque specs for a 2004 S600 (with ABC) are as follows from WIS. According to WIS, these values apply to all W220 and 215 cars with ABC. If your 2003 S600 has ABC, then it is assumed these apply. Do double check though as we will not be held liable for any damages.
* Tie rod to steering knuckle (spindle) is 50NM then 60 degrees
* Torque arm (thrust arm) to chassis 80NM then 120 degrees
* Torque arm (thrust arm) to knuckle (spindle) 50NM then 60 degrees
* Upper control arm to knuckle (spindle): 20NM then 90 degrees
* Lower control arm (aka spring control arm-front rear lower control arm that shock mounts) to knuckle (spindle) 50NM then 60 degrees
* Lower control arm (aka spring control arm-front rear lower control arm that shock mounts) to chassis 80NM then 120 degrees

'''NOTE''': all must be torqued under load at the correct ride height (ie the vehicle on the ground). Since most don't have a four post lift, you'll need to take careful measurements, then support each corner accordingly before fully tightening. You will also need four eccentric bolts if you wish to have a proper wheel alignment done afterwards. Eccentric bolt kits are # W0133-1630584

WIS 07.61 Gasoline Engine and Injection System ME

2023-10-09T23:01:28Z

Masood: /* DIY Video - Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S) */

Back to '''[[Index]]'''

==Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S) - Gasoline Engine and Injection System==
===Description - Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S)===
The Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S) are commonly known as O2 Sensors or Lambda Sensors. They are used to monitor, in real time, whether the air–fuel ratio of a combustion engine is rich or lean. Note: the Upstream 02 Sensors have a dramatic effect on performance and fuel economy but the down stream sensors are only used to monitor the performance of the catalytic converters and emissions.

They work by producing a voltage from approximately 1.0 V during rich operating conditions to 0.01 V (10 mV) during lean operating conditions. The HO2S is like an open circuit and produces no voltage when it is below 360C (600F).

The powertrain control module (PCM) supplies a bias voltage of about 450 mV between the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) high signal and low signal circuits. The HO2S varies the voltage within a range of about 1,000 mV when the exhaust is rich, down through about 10 mV when exhaust is lean. The PCM constantly monitors the HO2S signal during Closed Loop operation and compensates for a rich or lean condition by decreasing or increasing the fuel injector pulse width as necessary. If the HO2S voltage remains at or near the 450 mV bias for an extended period of time, P0154 diagnostic trouble code (DTC) will be set.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor

===Location - Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S)===
* G3/3 Left and G3/4 Right are the Heated Oxygen Sensors before or upstream of the Catalytic Converter TWC (KAT).
* G3/5 Left and G3/6 Right are the Heated Oxygen Sensors after or downstream of the Catalytic Converter TWC (KAT).

[[File:W220_O2_Heated_Oxygen_Sensors.JPG|500px|center]]

===Issues - Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S)===
HO2S have a limited lifetime, typically 160,000 Km (100,000 miles).

Symptoms of a failing HO2S include:
* Warning light on dash,
* Increased tailpipe emissions,
* Increased fuel consumption,
* Hesitation on acceleration,
* Stalling,
* Rough idling.

====Heating Element Failure====
The HO2S contains a heating element which often fails by going open circuit. The resistance of a typical W220 heater element has been measured as 9.2 Ohms. The specified heater resistance is TBD.

Resulting Fault Codes are:
* P20BF-004 G3/3 Left HO2S before TWC (KAT) open circuit in sensor heater line (P0156)
* P2082-004 G3/3 Left HO2S before TWC (KAT) open circuit (P0154)

====Cable Lengths====
The W220 HO2S are electrically interchangeable but have different cable lengths.
* G3/3 Left and G3/4 Right Front or Upstream HO2S (Long Cable). Wire length: 440mm (17.3 inches) sensor washer to end of connector. Total length: 460mm.
* G3/5 Left and G3/6 Right Rear or Downstream HO2S (Short Cable). Wire length: 322mm (12.7 inches) sensor washer to end of connector. Total length: 340mm.

[[File:W220_Heated_Oxygen_Sensors_Front_or_Upstream_%28Long_Cable%29_Rear_or_Downstream_%28Short_Cable%29.JPG|500px|center]]

====Part Numbers - M113 V8's====
* Left and Right, Front or Upstream HO2S (Long Cable): Bosch 16274
* Left and Right, Rear or Downstream HO2S (Short Cable): Bosch 16276

====Contamination====
Contamination of the oxygen sensor can result from the use of an inappropriate RTV or silicon sealer (not oxygen sensor safe) or excessive engine coolant or oil consumption.
* To check remove the HO2S and visually inspect the portion of the sensor exposed to the exhaust stream in order to check for contamination.
* If contaminated, the portion of the sensor exposed to the exhaust stream will have a white powdery coating.
* Silicon contamination causes a high but false HO2S signal voltage (rich exhaust indication). The control module will then reduce the amount of fuel delivered to the engine, causing a severe drive-ability problem.
* Eliminate the source of contamination before replacing the oxygen sensor.

===Connector Pin Diagram - Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S)===

[[File:O2_Sensor_Connector_Pin_Diagram.JPG|400px|center]]

HO2S Wire Colours
* Pin 1 White Heater
* Pin 2 White Heater
* Pin 3 Grey O2 Sensor Low
* Pin 4 Black O2 Sensor High

HO2S Connector to Power Control Module (N3/10) Cable Wire Colours
* Pin 1 Red or Red/Green Heater Ground
* Pin 2 Brown or Brown/Black Heater +12V
* Pin 3 Green O2 Sensor Low
* Pin 4 Black O2 Sensor High

===Electrical Wiring Diagram HO2S Upstream of TWC [KAT]===

[[File:Electrical_Wiring_Diagram_HO2S_Upstream_of_TWC_KAT.JPG|700px|center]]

===DIY Video - Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S)===

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/VaK4RGenYQA?si=fdHzHuN80n3ExYaL|320|center|Bank 1 or Bank2 O2 Sensor 2 DIY - M113, M112 Engines (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

The following codes may require replacement of the O2 sensor 2:

Engine codes for Bank1 Sensor 2:
* P2031 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
* P2032 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
* P2033 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
* P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
* P0137 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
* P0138 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
* P0139 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
* P0140 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
* P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

Engine codes for Bank2 Sensor 2 are:
* P0156 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
* P0157 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
* P0158 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
* P0159 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
* P0160 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
* P0161 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2):

===DIY Articles - Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S)===

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w203-c-class/1474361-p0154-code-wont-go-away.html

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w203-c-class/1474361-p0154-code-wont-go-away-2.html

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/New%20LS%20Links%20Page/LS%20trouble%20codes/DTC%20P0154.htm

==Fuel Injectors - Gasoline Engine and Injection System==
===Description - Fuel Injectors===
Edit required.

WIS 07.61 Gasoline Engine and Injection System ME

2023-10-09T23:00:03Z

Masood:

Back to '''[[Index]]'''

==Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S) - Gasoline Engine and Injection System==
===Description - Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S)===
The Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S) are commonly known as O2 Sensors or Lambda Sensors. They are used to monitor, in real time, whether the air–fuel ratio of a combustion engine is rich or lean. Note: the Upstream 02 Sensors have a dramatic effect on performance and fuel economy but the down stream sensors are only used to monitor the performance of the catalytic converters and emissions.

They work by producing a voltage from approximately 1.0 V during rich operating conditions to 0.01 V (10 mV) during lean operating conditions. The HO2S is like an open circuit and produces no voltage when it is below 360C (600F).

The powertrain control module (PCM) supplies a bias voltage of about 450 mV between the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) high signal and low signal circuits. The HO2S varies the voltage within a range of about 1,000 mV when the exhaust is rich, down through about 10 mV when exhaust is lean. The PCM constantly monitors the HO2S signal during Closed Loop operation and compensates for a rich or lean condition by decreasing or increasing the fuel injector pulse width as necessary. If the HO2S voltage remains at or near the 450 mV bias for an extended period of time, P0154 diagnostic trouble code (DTC) will be set.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor

===Location - Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S)===
* G3/3 Left and G3/4 Right are the Heated Oxygen Sensors before or upstream of the Catalytic Converter TWC (KAT).
* G3/5 Left and G3/6 Right are the Heated Oxygen Sensors after or downstream of the Catalytic Converter TWC (KAT).

[[File:W220_O2_Heated_Oxygen_Sensors.JPG|500px|center]]

===Issues - Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S)===
HO2S have a limited lifetime, typically 160,000 Km (100,000 miles).

Symptoms of a failing HO2S include:
* Warning light on dash,
* Increased tailpipe emissions,
* Increased fuel consumption,
* Hesitation on acceleration,
* Stalling,
* Rough idling.

====Heating Element Failure====
The HO2S contains a heating element which often fails by going open circuit. The resistance of a typical W220 heater element has been measured as 9.2 Ohms. The specified heater resistance is TBD.

Resulting Fault Codes are:
* P20BF-004 G3/3 Left HO2S before TWC (KAT) open circuit in sensor heater line (P0156)
* P2082-004 G3/3 Left HO2S before TWC (KAT) open circuit (P0154)

====Cable Lengths====
The W220 HO2S are electrically interchangeable but have different cable lengths.
* G3/3 Left and G3/4 Right Front or Upstream HO2S (Long Cable). Wire length: 440mm (17.3 inches) sensor washer to end of connector. Total length: 460mm.
* G3/5 Left and G3/6 Right Rear or Downstream HO2S (Short Cable). Wire length: 322mm (12.7 inches) sensor washer to end of connector. Total length: 340mm.

[[File:W220_Heated_Oxygen_Sensors_Front_or_Upstream_%28Long_Cable%29_Rear_or_Downstream_%28Short_Cable%29.JPG|500px|center]]

====Part Numbers - M113 V8's====
* Left and Right, Front or Upstream HO2S (Long Cable): Bosch 16274
* Left and Right, Rear or Downstream HO2S (Short Cable): Bosch 16276

====Contamination====
Contamination of the oxygen sensor can result from the use of an inappropriate RTV or silicon sealer (not oxygen sensor safe) or excessive engine coolant or oil consumption.
* To check remove the HO2S and visually inspect the portion of the sensor exposed to the exhaust stream in order to check for contamination.
* If contaminated, the portion of the sensor exposed to the exhaust stream will have a white powdery coating.
* Silicon contamination causes a high but false HO2S signal voltage (rich exhaust indication). The control module will then reduce the amount of fuel delivered to the engine, causing a severe drive-ability problem.
* Eliminate the source of contamination before replacing the oxygen sensor.

===Connector Pin Diagram - Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S)===

[[File:O2_Sensor_Connector_Pin_Diagram.JPG|400px|center]]

HO2S Wire Colours
* Pin 1 White Heater
* Pin 2 White Heater
* Pin 3 Grey O2 Sensor Low
* Pin 4 Black O2 Sensor High

HO2S Connector to Power Control Module (N3/10) Cable Wire Colours
* Pin 1 Red or Red/Green Heater Ground
* Pin 2 Brown or Brown/Black Heater +12V
* Pin 3 Green O2 Sensor Low
* Pin 4 Black O2 Sensor High

===Electrical Wiring Diagram HO2S Upstream of TWC [KAT]===

[[File:Electrical_Wiring_Diagram_HO2S_Upstream_of_TWC_KAT.JPG|700px|center]]

===DIY Video - Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S)===

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/VaK4RGenYQA?si=fdHzHuN80n3ExYaL|320|center|Bank 1 or Bank2 O2 Sensor DIY - M113, M112 Engines (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

The following codes may require replacement of the O2 sensor 2:

Engine codes for Bank1 Sensor 2:
* P2031 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
* P2032 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
* P2033 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
* P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
* P0137 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
* P0138 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
* P0139 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
* P0140 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
* P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

Engine codes for Bank2 Sensor 2 are:
* P0156 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
* P0157 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
* P0158 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
* P0159 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
* P0160 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
* P0161 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2):

===DIY Articles - Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S)===

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w203-c-class/1474361-p0154-code-wont-go-away.html

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w203-c-class/1474361-p0154-code-wont-go-away-2.html

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/New%20LS%20Links%20Page/LS%20trouble%20codes/DTC%20P0154.htm

==Fuel Injectors - Gasoline Engine and Injection System==
===Description - Fuel Injectors===
Edit required.

WIS 07.61 Gasoline Engine and Injection System ME

2023-10-09T22:57:54Z

Masood:

Back to '''[[Index]]'''

==Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S) - Gasoline Engine and Injection System==
===Description - Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S)===
The Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S) are commonly known as O2 Sensors or Lambda Sensors. They are used to monitor, in real time, whether the air–fuel ratio of a combustion engine is rich or lean. Note: the Upstream 02 Sensors have a dramatic effect on performance and fuel economy but the down stream sensors are only used to monitor the performance of the catalytic converters and emissions.

They work by producing a voltage from approximately 1.0 V during rich operating conditions to 0.01 V (10 mV) during lean operating conditions. The HO2S is like an open circuit and produces no voltage when it is below 360C (600F).

The powertrain control module (PCM) supplies a bias voltage of about 450 mV between the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) high signal and low signal circuits. The HO2S varies the voltage within a range of about 1,000 mV when the exhaust is rich, down through about 10 mV when exhaust is lean. The PCM constantly monitors the HO2S signal during Closed Loop operation and compensates for a rich or lean condition by decreasing or increasing the fuel injector pulse width as necessary. If the HO2S voltage remains at or near the 450 mV bias for an extended period of time, P0154 diagnostic trouble code (DTC) will be set.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor

===Location - Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S)===
* G3/3 Left and G3/4 Right are the Heated Oxygen Sensors before or upstream of the Catalytic Converter TWC (KAT).
* G3/5 Left and G3/6 Right are the Heated Oxygen Sensors after or downstream of the Catalytic Converter TWC (KAT).

[[File:W220_O2_Heated_Oxygen_Sensors.JPG|500px|center]]

===Issues - Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S)===
HO2S have a limited lifetime, typically 160,000 Km (100,000 miles).

Symptoms of a failing HO2S include:
* Warning light on dash,
* Increased tailpipe emissions,
* Increased fuel consumption,
* Hesitation on acceleration,
* Stalling,
* Rough idling.

====Heating Element Failure====
The HO2S contains a heating element which often fails by going open circuit. The resistance of a typical W220 heater element has been measured as 9.2 Ohms. The specified heater resistance is TBD.

Resulting Fault Codes are:
* P20BF-004 G3/3 Left HO2S before TWC (KAT) open circuit in sensor heater line (P0156)
* P2082-004 G3/3 Left HO2S before TWC (KAT) open circuit (P0154)

====Cable Lengths====
The W220 HO2S are electrically interchangeable but have different cable lengths.
* G3/3 Left and G3/4 Right Front or Upstream HO2S (Long Cable). Wire length: 440mm (17.3 inches) sensor washer to end of connector. Total length: 460mm.
* G3/5 Left and G3/6 Right Rear or Downstream HO2S (Short Cable). Wire length: 322mm (12.7 inches) sensor washer to end of connector. Total length: 340mm.

[[File:W220_Heated_Oxygen_Sensors_Front_or_Upstream_%28Long_Cable%29_Rear_or_Downstream_%28Short_Cable%29.JPG|500px|center]]

====Part Numbers - M113 V8's====
* Left and Right, Front or Upstream HO2S (Long Cable): Bosch 16274
* Left and Right, Rear or Downstream HO2S (Short Cable): Bosch 16276

====Contamination====
Contamination of the oxygen sensor can result from the use of an inappropriate RTV or silicon sealer (not oxygen sensor safe) or excessive engine coolant or oil consumption.
* To check remove the HO2S and visually inspect the portion of the sensor exposed to the exhaust stream in order to check for contamination.
* If contaminated, the portion of the sensor exposed to the exhaust stream will have a white powdery coating.
* Silicon contamination causes a high but false HO2S signal voltage (rich exhaust indication). The control module will then reduce the amount of fuel delivered to the engine, causing a severe drive-ability problem.
* Eliminate the source of contamination before replacing the oxygen sensor.

===Connector Pin Diagram - Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S)===

[[File:O2_Sensor_Connector_Pin_Diagram.JPG|400px|center]]

HO2S Wire Colours
* Pin 1 White Heater
* Pin 2 White Heater
* Pin 3 Grey O2 Sensor Low
* Pin 4 Black O2 Sensor High

HO2S Connector to Power Control Module (N3/10) Cable Wire Colours
* Pin 1 Red or Red/Green Heater Ground
* Pin 2 Brown or Brown/Black Heater +12V
* Pin 3 Green O2 Sensor Low
* Pin 4 Black O2 Sensor High

===Electrical Wiring Diagram HO2S Upstream of TWC [KAT]===

[[File:Electrical_Wiring_Diagram_HO2S_Upstream_of_TWC_KAT.JPG|700px|center]]

===DIY Video - Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S)===

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/VaK4RGenYQA?si=fdHzHuN80n3ExYaL|320|center|Bank 1 or Bank2 O2 Sensor DIY - M113, M112 Engines (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

The following codes may require replacement of the O2 sensor 2:

Engine codes for Bank1 Sensor 2:
P2031 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P2032 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P2033 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0137 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0138 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0139 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0140 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

Engine codes for Bank2 Sensor 2 are:
P0156 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0157 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0158 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0159 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0160 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0161 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2):

===DIY Articles - Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S)===

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w203-c-class/1474361-p0154-code-wont-go-away.html

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w203-c-class/1474361-p0154-code-wont-go-away-2.html

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/New%20LS%20Links%20Page/LS%20trouble%20codes/DTC%20P0154.htm

==Fuel Injectors - Gasoline Engine and Injection System==
===Description - Fuel Injectors===
Edit required.

Vibration Damper (Harmonic Balancer)

2023-04-23T17:54:36Z

Masood: /* Vibration Damper (Harmonic Balancer */

Back to '''[[Index]]'''

==[[Vibration Damper (Harmonic Balancer)]]==

==DIY Video - Replace - Vibration Damper on an M112 or M113 Engine ==

This video shows in detail how to inexpensively replace Harmonic Balance also known as the Vibration Damper on a W220 S500.
{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/b9JeNXKJG6k|320|left|Replace Harmonic Balancer (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

Vibration Damper (Harmonic Balancer)

2023-04-23T17:54:04Z

Masood: /* DIY Video - Replace - Vibration Damper on an M112 or M113 Engine */

Back to '''[[Index]]'''

==[[Vibration Damper (Harmonic Balancer]]==

==DIY Video - Replace - Vibration Damper on an M112 or M113 Engine ==

This video shows in detail how to inexpensively replace Harmonic Balance also known as the Vibration Damper on a W220 S500.
{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/b9JeNXKJG6k|320|left|Replace Harmonic Balancer (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

Vibration Damper (Harmonic Balancer)

2023-04-23T17:52:54Z

Masood: /* Vibration Damper (Harmonic Balancer */

Back to '''[[Index]]'''

==[[Vibration Damper (Harmonic Balancer]]==

==DIY Video - Replace - Vibration Damper on an M112 or M113 Engine ==

This video shows in detail how to replace Harmonic Balance also know as the Vibration Damper on a W220 S500.
{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/b9JeNXKJG6k|320|left|Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

Vibration Damper (Harmonic Balancer)

2023-04-23T17:49:33Z

Masood: Created page with "Back to '''Index''' ==Vibration Damper (Harmonic Balancer=="

Back to '''[[Index]]'''

==[[Vibration Damper (Harmonic Balancer]]==

Index

2023-04-23T17:48:33Z

Masood:

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Mercedes-Benz S-Class W220 Wiki Encyclopedia}}

<div class="noautonum">__TOC__</div>

=='''START HERE''' at the List of Key Words With Links to Relevant Sections==
[[Key Words with Links to Relevant Sections]]

==W220 Wiki Purpose and Guidelines==
[[W220 Encyclopedia:About]]

==Template for W220 Wiki Articles (Copy and Paste to start a new article)==
[[Template for W220 Wiki Articles]]

==WIS 00 Overall Vehicle General Information==
* [[Acronyms and Abbreviations]]
* [[Components | Component numbers and locations]]
* [[BRABUS]]
* [[Buying Guide]]
* Changes between previous S-Class models
* [[Facelift | Changes introduced in Facelift Models]]
* [[Option codes]] (listed in vehicle [[data card]])
* [[Differences between ECE and US models]]
* [[Differences between LHD and RHD models]]
* [[Differences between 2003 and 2004 models]]
* [[M-B Fault Error Codes/Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)| Fault Error Codes/Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)]]
* [[Workshop Training Manuals for All Mercedes-Benz|Manuals]]
* [[Operator’s Manual]]
* [[Recall Campaigns]]
* [[Reset Service Interval Indicator]]
* S320
* S350
* S400
* S430
* S500
* [[S600]]
* S55
* S63
* S65
* [[VIN (Vehicle Identification Number)]]
* W215 (CL-Class)
* [[W220 S-Class Brochure]]
* [[W220 in Movies]]
* [[Crash]]
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes_W220 Wikipedia Article on Mercedes-Benz S-Class (W220)]
* [[Convenience Feature]]
* [[DAS]]
* [[Workspace]]

== WIS 01 Engine, Cylinder Head and Crankshaft Housing, Oil Pan ==
* WIS 01.00 General
* [[WIS 01.10 Complete Engine]]
* [[crankcase ventilation cylinder head cover|WIS 01.20 Crankcase Ventilation, Cylinder Head Cover]]
* WIS 01.30 Cylinder Head
* WIS 01.40 Cylinder Crankcase, Timing Case Cover, End Cover
* WIS 01.45 Oil Pan

== WIS 03 Crank Assembly==
* WIS 03.00 General
* WIS 03.10 Connecting Rods, Pistons
* [[WIS 03.20 Crankshaft]]
** [[Crankshaft Position Sensor]]
* WIS 03.30 Flywheel, Drive Disc/Plate, Vibration Damper, Starter Ring Gear
** [[Vibration Damper (Harmonic Balancer)]]

==WIS 05 Engine Timing==
* WIS 05.00 General
* WIS 05.10 Timing Chain Drive, Toothed Belt Drive, Gear Drive
* WIS 05.20 Camshaft, Camshaft Adjustment
** [[Camshaft position sensor]]
* WIS 05.30 Valve, Rocker Arm, Rocker Arm Assembly
* [[Sensors - Engine Timing]]

==WIS 07 Mixture formation==
* [[Mixture formation|WIS 07.00 General]]
* WIS 07.02 Injection Pump, Plugin Pump, High Pressure Pump
* WIS 07.03 Injection Jets, Injection Valves, Lines
* WIS 07.04 Sender, Feeler, Sensors
* [[Mass air flow sensor]]
* WIS 07.09 Vacuum System
* WIS 07.16 Diesel Injection System, Common Rail
* WIS 07.40 Fuel Filter, Fuel Supply
* WIS 07.41 LH Sequential Multiport Fuel Injection System
* [[WIS 07.61 Gasoline Engine and Injection System ME]]

==WIS 09 Air Intake, Turbocharging==
* [[WIS 09.10 Air Filter]]
* WIS 09.20 Intake manifold, Intake Manifold Preheater
* WIS 09.30 Intake Air Preheater
* WIS 09.40 Turbocharger
* WIS 09.40 Compressor

==WIS 14 Exhaust mainfold, engine brake, emission control system==
* WIS 14.10 Exhaust mainfold
* WIS 14.15 Engine brake
* [[Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR)|WIS 14.20 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR)]]
* [[air pump|WIS 14.30 Secondary air injection, air pump]]
* WIS 14.40 Exhaust aftertreatment, AdBlue

==WIS 15 Electrical System, Engine==
* [[WIS 15.00 General]]
* [[WIS 15.10 Ignition System General]]
* WIS 15.18 Cable Sets
* WIS 15.20 Preheating System
* [[WIS 15.30 Starter Motor]]
* [[Alternator | WIS 15.40 Generator / Alternator]]
* WIS 15.50 Oil Pressure Sensor
* WIS 15.60 Temperature Sensor
* [[Midcity SmartKey starter]]

==WIS 18 Oil pump, Oil Filter, Oil Cooler==
* [[Engine oil|Engine oil: oil filter, oil change, oil cooling]]
* WIS 18.10 Oil Pump

* WIS 18.40 Oil Sensor

==WIS 20 Engine Cooling System==
* [[WIS 20.00 General]]
* [[WIS 20.10 Coolant Pump, Coolant Thermostat]]
* [[WIS 20.20 Radiator, Coolant Hoses]]
* [[WIS 20.40 Fan, Fan Clutch]]
* [[Engine belt|Engine belt, tensioner pulley, idler pulley]]

==WIS 22 Engine Mounts / Suspension==
* [[Engine mounts|WIS 22.10 Engine Mounts, Engine Brackets]]

==WIS 27 Automatic Transmission==
* [[WIS 27.00 Transmission Types]]
* [[WIS 27.00 Transmission - General]]
** [[DIY Transmission Service W220 WITHOUT TC Drain Plug]]
** [[DIY Transmission Service W220 WITH TC Drain Plug]]
** [[Transmission Detailed DIY Flushing System Design]]
* [[WIS 27.19 Transmission – Electrical System]]
* [[WIS 27.20 Torque Converter]]
* [[WIS 27.35 Valve Body Housing]]
* WIS 27.40 Housing
* WIS 27.50 Gear Set
* WIS 27.51 Clutch Assembly, Multidisk Brake
* WIS 27.55 Automatic Transmission, Oil Cooling System
* [[WIS 27.60 Gearshift, Control]]

==WIS 30 Regulation, Speed Control System==
* WIS 30.16 Electronic Engine Throttle Control
* [[WIS 30.30 Cruise Control (CC), Distronic (DTR)]]
* WIS 36 Speed Limiter (GB, GBE, GBL)

==WIS 32 Suspension==
* [[WIS 32.00 General]]
* WIS 32.20 Steel Springs, Torsion Bars, Nveaumat
* [[Airmatic|WIS 32.22 Air Suspension / Airmatic]]
** [[Airmatic Adjusting Levels Using DAS]]
** [[Angle Measuring Device or Inclinometer]]
* WIS 32.25 Shock Absorbers, Damper Struts, Spring Struts
* WIS 32.30 Level Control
* WIS 32.31 Level Control with Chassis Lowering
* WIS 32.32 Level Control with Adaptive Damping System (ADS)
* WIS 32.33 Ground Clearance Compensator (NR/ENR)
* WIS 32.34 Anti Roll Governor (WR)
* WIS 32.35 Stabilizer
* WIS 32.40 Hydroneumatic Suspension
* [[ABC|WIS 32.50 Active Body Control (ABC)]]

==WIS 33 Front Axle==
* [[Front axle|WIS 33.10 Complete Front Axle]]
* WIS 33.30 Drive, Differential Gear, Front Drive Shafts

==WIS 35 Rear Axle==
* [[Rear axle]]
* [[WIS 35.30 Final Drive, Rear Drive Shafts]]
* [[WIS 35.31 Rear Axle Centre Assembly]]

==WIS 40 Wheels, Wheel Alignment Check==
* [[Wheels, Tyres|WIS 40.10 Wheels, Tyres]]
* [[WIS 40.15 Tyre Pressure Monitor, Run Flat Indicator]]
* [[Wheel alignment]]

==WIS 41 Propeller/Drive Shaft==
* [[WIS 41.10 Propeller Shaft]]
* [[WIS 41.40 Intermediate Bearing|Flex Disc and Intermediate Bearing]]

==WIS 42 Brakes – Hydraulics and Mechanical Components==
* [[Brakes]]

* [[Parking brake|WIS 42.20 Parking Brake]]
* WIS 42.30 Anti-locking System ABS
* [[WIS 42.45 Electronic Stability Program, Telligent® Stability Control]]

==WIS 46 Steering==
* [[Steering wheel|WIS 46.10 Steering Wheel, Steering Column Tube, Steering Shaft, Steering Lock]]
* [[Steering wheel heater|WIS 46.11 Steering Wheel Heater]]
* [[WIS 46.15 Steering Column Adjustment]]
* [[WIS 46.30 Power Steering Pump]]
* [[Steering linkage|WIS 46.40 Steering Linkage]]

== WIS 47 Fuel System==
* [[WIS 47.00 Fuel Filler Cover]]
* [[Fuel tank|WIS 47.10 Fuel tank]]
* [[Fuel pump filter|WIS 47.20 Fuel Pump, Filter]]
* [[EVAP system|WIS 47.30 Evaporative Emission Control System]]
* [[Liquefied Petroleum Gas (LPG)]]

==WIS 49 Exhaust System==
* [[Exhaust system|WIS 49.10 Exhaust Pipes, Catalytic Converter, Mufflers]]

==WIS 54 Electrical System, Equipment and Instruments==
* [[WIS 54.00 General]]
** [[M-B Fault Error Codes/Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)]]
* [[Battery|WIS 54.10 Battery, Power Supply, Voltage Converter]]
** [[Auxiliary battery]]
** [[DIY High Current Sensor - Quiescent Current or Parasitic Discharge Tests]]
** [[DIY Voltage Drop Across Fuses - Quiescent Current or Parasitic Discharge Tests]]
* [[Fuses|WIS 54.15 Fuse and Relay Box]]
* [[SAM (Signal Acquisition / Actuation Module)]]
* [[WIS 54.21 Control Units/Modules]]
* [[Instrument cluster|WIS 54.30 Instrument Cluster, Display Instrument, Warning System]]
* [[Fanfare horns|WIS 54.35 Signalling System (Fanfare Horns)]]
* [[Parktronic|WIS 54.65 Parktronic System (PTS)]]
* [[WIS 54.70 Proximity Warning Device Parktronic System (PTS) Distance Sensor]]

==WIS 58 Tools and Accessories==
* [[Code Readers]]
* [[EPC (Electronic Parts Catalog/Catalogue)]]
* [[Operator’s Manual]]
* [[Technical Service Bulletins (TSB)]]
* [[Special Tools]]
* [[STAR Diagnosis System (SDS) or Diagnosis Assistance System (DAS)]]
* [[STAR Service Manual on CD]]
* [[Workshop Training Manuals for All Mercedes-Benz]]

== WIS 67 Windshield and Windows==
* [[Windows|WIS 67.00 General]]
* [[Windshield|WIS 67.10 Windshield]]
* WIS 67.20 Rear Window
* WIS 67.29 Heated Rear Window – Electrical System
* [[WIS 67.39 Electric Side Windows]]

==WIS 68 Interior Equipment==
* WIS 68.00 General
** [[Dashboard]]
** [[Remove/install accelerator pedal]]
** [[Removing and installing cover below instrument panel (left)]]
** [[Removing and installing front floor covering (left)]]
** [[Removing and installing cover below instrument panel (right)]]
** [[Removing and installing front floor covering (right)]]
** [[Remove/install paneling on B-pillar]]
* WIS 68.05 Garage Door Opener
* [[WIS 68.10 Instrument Panel]]
** [[Glove compartment]]
* [[WIS 68.20 Center Console]]
* WIS 68.30 Trim, Decorative Strips
* [[rearview mirror|WIS 68.40 Rearview Mirror]]
* WIS 68.49 Rearview Mirror – Electrical System
* WIS 68.50 Curtail, Roller Sun Blind, Load Compartment Cover, Securing Cargo
* [[Sun visor]]
* [[Leather]]

==WIS 72 Doors==
* [[Doors | WIS 72.00 General]]
* [[Front doors|WIS 72.10 Front Door]]
* [[Rear doors|WIS 72.12 Rear Door]]
* [[WIS 72.29 Doors Electrical System]]
** [[Door control module]]
* [[WIS 72.30 Shutting Assist (SHI) / Close Assist / Self Close]]
** [[Pneumatic System Equipment (PSE)]]
** [[Pneumatic System Equipment (PSE) Pump]]
** [[Arduino Controlled PSE Pump]]
*** [[Arduino Controlled PSE Pump Code]]

==WIS 77 Sliding Roof, Soft Top, Mountings==
* WIS 77.00 General
* [[WIS 77.20 Electric Sliding Roof]]
* [[Roof rack]]

==WIS 80 Central Locking, Convenience Feature, Drive Authorization System==
* WIS 80.20 Central Locking System, Interior Central Locking
* WIS 80.30 Infrared Remote Control
* WIS 80.35 Radio-Frequency Actuated Remote Control
* WIS 80.40 Power Locking
* [[WIS 80.45 Convenience Feature (CF) / Convenience Locking System]]
* WIS 80.50 Anti-theft Alarm System (ATA), Interior Protection, Tow Away Protection
* [[WIS 80.57 Drive Authorization System]]
* [[Keyless-Go | WIS 80.61 Keyless-Go/Keyless Entry]]
* [[SmartKey]]

==WIS 82 Electrical System==
* [[Fuses|Fuses and Relay Boxes]]
* [[WIS 82.00 Electrical System, Body, General]]
* WIS 82.10 Exterior Lights
** [[License Plate Lights]]
** [[Head Lights]]
** [[Tail Lights]]
** [[Side Lights]]
* [[WIS 82.15 Headlamp Cleaning System]]
* [[WIS 82.20 Interior Illumination]]
** [[Full LED Interior]]
** [[Interior Door Handle Illumination]]
* [[WIS 82.25 Signalling Equipment/Emergency Alarm System]]
* [[WIS 82.30 Windshield Wiper]]
* [[windshield washing system|WIS 82.35 Windshield Washing System]]
* [[WIS 82.62 Speaker, Amplifier, Antenna]]
* WIS 82.64 CD Changer
* WIS 82.70 Telephone, Voice Control System
* [[WIS 82.85 Navigation and Communication System (CNS, ICS, COMAND, FleetBoa) A40/3]]
**[[RADIO|MB RADIO (AUDIO 10/30)]]
**[[D2B COMAND|COMAND]] ([[D2B]]) (before 01/09/2003)
***[[Mercedes Player MP40]]
**[[MOST COMAND-APS|COMAND-APS]] ([[MOST]]) (after 01/09/2003)
***[[MOST Audio Gateway|Audio Gateway]]
***[[MOST Sound Amplifier|Sound Amplifier]]
***[[MOST CD Changer|CD Changer]]
***[[MOST Navigation|Navigation]]
***[[MOST Television|Television]]
***[[MOST Satellite Radio|Satellite Radio]]
** [[Rear view camera]]
** [[COMAND Multimedia interface]]
***[[Connects2 CT90-MC04]]
***[[Car Solutions RGB-LE-V3.1]]
** [[Aftermarket COMAND replacements]]
** [[Burn mp3 Audio Files to a CD or DVD]]
* [[WIS 82.90 On-board Communication System, Multi-function Steering Wheel]]
** [[WIS 82.90 On-board Communication System, Multi-function Steering Wheel|CAN (Controller Area Network)]]
* WIS 82.95 Emergency Call System

==WIS 83 Climate Control==
* WIS 83.00 General
* WIS 83.10 Ventilation
* WIS 83.20 Heater
* [[WIS 83.30 Air Conditioning]]
* [[WIS 83.40 Automatic Climate Control (ACC) or Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC)]]
** [[Pushbutton Control Module (N22)]]
** [[Overhead Control Panel (OCP) (N70)]]
** [[Automatic Climate Control (ACC) Service Menus]]
** [[Blower]]
** [[Duo Valve]]
** [[Coolant Circulation Pump]]
** [[Air Conditioning Compressor]]
** [[Cabin Ventilation Dust Filter]]
** [[Activated Charcoal Filter (ACF)]]
** [[Four Quadrant Sun Sensor (B32/2)]]
** [[Under Hood ACC Drain Access and Cleaning]]
* WIS 83.45 Air conditioner housing
* WIS 83.50 Rear air conditioning
* WIS 83.60 Rear compartment heater
* [[Auxiliary heater|WIS 83.70 Stationary heater, auxiliary heater, heater booster]]

==WIS 88 Detachable Body Components, Exterior Flaps==
* WIS 88.10 Fenders
* [[WIS 88.20 Bumpers]]
* WIS 88.40 [[Engine Hood]], Front Flap
* [[Trunk|WIS 88.50 Trunk/Boot]]
* WIS 88.60 Exterior Flaps
* [[WIS 88.70 Exterior Mirrors]]
* [[WIS 88.79 Exterior Mirrors - Electrical System]]
* WIS 88.80 Cover Strips
* [[WIS 88.85 Trim Strips]]
** [[Remove/install bottom engine compartment paneling]]

==WIS 90 Paintwork==
* [[Paintwork|WIS 90.00 General]]
* WIS 90.10 Paintwork Metal Surface
* WIS 90.20 Paintwork Plastic Surface
* WIS 90.30 Paint Care

==WIS 91 Seats, Bunks, Restraint Systems==
* [[Front seats|WIS 91.10 Front Seats]]
* [[Rear seats|WIS 91.12 Rear Seats]]
* [[WIS 91.16 Head-rest/Restraint]]
* WIS 91.20 Occasional Seat, Integrated Child Seat
* WIS 91.25 Multicontour seat
* WIS 91.27 Center Armrest
* WIS 91.29 Seat, Electrical System
* [[Seat heating and ventilation|WIS 91.30 Seat Heater, Seat Ventilation]]
* [[WIS 91.40 Seat Belts, Emergency Tensioning Retractors]]
* WIS 91.60 Airbag, Pedestrian Protection

Gearshift

2023-04-23T17:42:39Z

Masood:

== Transmission shifter ==

[[File:B27213000007.060816.png|thumb|none|Shifter console related parts in [[EPC]]]]

The M-B Transmission Selector allows the driver to select the required mode for the automatic transmission with the choices being usually;
* Park
* Reverse
* Neutral
* Drive (with a choice for manually selecting higher or lower gears if required)

== Transmission shifter Linkage Bushing ==
A very common issue with all 722.6 transmissions is that the linkage bushing wears out with use or just as a function of time.
This creates a very dangerous scenario where the car will move even if geared in Park.

This video shows how to replace this $3 bushing as a Maintenace item:
{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/tkNL1TWbii8|320|left|722.6 Linkage Bushing Replacement by Masood|frame}}
|}

The M-B transmission shifter has a safety feature whereby it is supposed to remain locked in Park unless the proper key is in the ignition and the brake pedal is pressed.

== Transmission shifter stuck in park ==
A common issue is that the transmission shifter becomes stuck in the park position thus disabling the vehicle.

In case of emergency, a stuck shifter can be moved out from the park position using force:
{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CF0tsQpM-qU|320|left|Move stuck shifter using vibrations.|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLsEHOVAPms|320|left|Move stuck shifter using hammer.|frame}}
|}

The most common cause for this problem is a plastic lever that breaks inside the shifter.
Another cause for the problem could be a defective brake light switch (or blown [[fuses|fuse f16]] - stop signal switch).

A broken plastic lever can be replaced with an aftermarket metal lever (~30 EUR from eBay using the keyword "W220 trans shifter lever").
To properly replace the lever, a rivet gun and 3 aluminium rivets are needed. The original rivets are of size 3.2x12mm, but in practice 3.2x8mm rivets will work as well.

{|
|[[File:W220_shifter_lever_aftermarket_vs_original.jpg|thumb|none|Aftermarket metal lever vs the original broken plastic lever]]
|[[File:W220_shifter_lever_replacement_aluminium_rivets.jpg|thumb|none|Reinstalling aluminium rivets]]
|}

The broken plastic part can be removed without replacing it, but doing so defeats the brake/shifter interlock,
as it will be possible to move the shift lever at all times even with ignition on or off.
If you plan to leave unattended children in the car, this fix may not be right for you in which case
you should replace the broken pieces to restore the safety feature to its original condition.

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsxUFVtdPHk|320|left|Mercedes Shifter Removal|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNvh9cETrKI|320|left|How to repair stuck shifter, replace shifter lever|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsZs47Cxog8|320|left|Car stuck in park p1|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPyhGZpVXl0|320|left|Car Stuck in park p2|frame}}
|}

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuMczG9pdh8|320|left|Shifter lever plastic replacement with metal part.|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEbECxj-wzM|320|left|Shifter lever diagnosis.|frame}}
|}

== Shift knob ==
=== Removing shift knob ===

# Unlock the shifter knob by turning conterclockwise on the chrome part of the knob until it stops, only 1/4 of a turn is necessary.
# Lift the knob straight up off the shaft. Do this in N position if you have large hands so when the knob is coming off of the shaft you don't hit the COMAND screen and center console.

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WkpvYdD8T4|320|left|Shifter knob Removal.|frame}}
|}

=== Fixing loose shift knob ===

Incorrect removal procedure by trying to twist the knob, will damage the plastic core of the gear knob and knob will become loose.
One way to fix a loose knob is to use type around the shaft.
The idea is to build up some thickness on the shaft.
Do not wrap anything around the chrome bezel area, it won't do anything but stop the knob returning to it's original locked position.
Only wrap the top part of the shaft.

{|
|[[File:W220_shift_knob_remove.jpg|thumb|none|]]
|[[File:W220_fix_loose_shift_knob.jpg|thumb|none|]]
|}

=== Dissecting shift knob ===
# Use cord to tie up the plastic core and to pull the plastic ring off.
# Pour in some alcohol in between the wood part and the plastic core. Alcohol will soften the glue. Tier it gently until it comes off.
# [[KEYLESS-GO]] button is attached from the bottom with two T6 screws.

{|
|[[File:W220_shift_knob_ring_removal.jpg|thumb|none|Plastic ring pulled off from the plastic core.]]
|[[File:W220_shift_knob_wood_core_separated.jpg|thumb|none|Wood part separated from the plastic core.]]
|}
{|
|[[File:W220_shift_knob_keyless-go_button_removed.jpg|thumb|none|[[KEYLESS-GO]] button removed.]]
|[[File:W220_shift_knob_A2202671510_parts_separated.jpg|thumb|none|Shift knob (A2202671510) fully dissected.]]
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_shift_knob_A2202671510_new_leather.jpg|thumb|none|Shift knob with new leather.]]
|[[File:W220_shift_knob_dissected.jpg|thumb|none|Pre-facelift shift knob dissected.]]
|}

Airmatic

2023-01-05T00:38:14Z

Masood:

==Introduction ==
All W220 vehicles come with Airmatic pneumatic suspension system, unless vehicle has option code
[[Option_codes#487_-_ABC_SUSPENSION_.28ACTIVE_BODY_CONTROL.29|487 - ABC SUSPENSION (ACTIVE BODY CONTROL)]]
in which case the vehicle is equipped with [[ABC|Active Body Control (ABC)]] hydraulic suspension system with additional computer control.
[[ABC]] system provides greater roll control and eliminates any "nosedive" even with heavy braking (not that there is much of either with Airmatic).
Both suspension systems are responsible for the superb ride and handling of the W220 and being complex systems will require maintenance.

Airmatic systems on earlier cars tended to fail more often than on the '03 and later - the '04s and on are less problematic. However, there is no such thing a "bulletproof" pneumatic suspension system. Seals and pumps will wear, and struts will have to be replaced. You'd have to do the same thing with standard shocks, too - but Airmatic will be more expensive. The best protection is to become familiar with the early signs of Airmatic problems, and fix them right away. Letting them go runs the cost up.

They are not especially problematic, but like any complex system, they break - and any luxury car is expensive to repair. Keep in mind that if the garage you use does not have [[STAR_Diagnosis_System_(SDS)_or_Diagnosis_Assistance_System_(DAS)|STAR Diagnostics]] and can not interpret the values both in sensor voltage and other tests, then don't waste your time and money. Find someone who can. DIY is possible but preferably requires use of STAR Diagnostics with some prior experience and always lots of patience.

One common failure point which was initially subject to inspection and free replacement, was the high-pressure line from the pump to the valve body.

Another common weakness in the pre '03-ish W220's compared to those from a few years later, is the seals at the tops of the front suspension struts. The older design can leak air over time. The newer models and ones with new replacement parts do not leak. Cars that were under warranty could have these seals replaced with that coverage.

Other issues are discussed below.

The '''EMERGENCY''' Procedure, or what to do if your car is sitting on the ground, is shown below.

Some of the air suspension components covered in this page are also used in W211, W216, W219, W221, W240 and W639 MB chassis vehicles.

==Description==
The W220 AIRmatic system is a fully supporting air suspension system which provides both static and dynamic support by means of four air struts located at the wheels. Each strut has an air spring containing an air bag (bladder) and a dampener built-in to the one unit. The struts get air via a valve distribution unit from an air compressor located behind the front bumper close to the front right wheel well. On the opposite side is the central reservoir which stores air pressure for use when the pump is not running. The valve unit is connected to a computer which monitors the air pressure, the vehicle weight, the vehicle height requirement and vehicle stance (angle) and then sets the ride height accordingly.

[[File:W220_Airmatic_suspension.jpg|600px]]

==Features==

* Level control both manual and speed sensitive.
* Electronic level control which maintains a constant even level at the front and rear axles according to the driving and vehicle load conditions.
** When the vehicle is stationary the level is readjusted if there is a difference of more than +/- 10mm after a door or the trunk lid is opened.
** While driving the level is readjusted if there is a difference of more than +/- 20mm. The level is adjusted to +/- 10 mm every 15 minutes.
* Active Damping System (ADS) which changes the damping forces according to the road conditions and the driver's driving style. The road conditions are determined by vertical acceleration sensors in the body of the vehicle. The horizontal acceleration is determined by measuring the vehicle speed and turn angle.

==Advantages==
Higher level of driving safety and ride comfort due to:
* Adapting damping to road conditions and driving style.
* Low location of centre of gravity as vehicle lowers above 70KPH.
* Low aerodynamic drag and fuel consumption as vehicle lowers above 70KPH.
* Less tendency for vehicle to lift at speed.

Individual adaptation due to:
* Raising vehicle level for poor road surfaces and when negotiating driveways.
* Two possible damping levels for comfort or sport driving styles in vehicles produced up to 08/99.
* Three possible damping levels for comfort, sport or extreme sport driving styles in vehicles produced after 09/99.

Driver information due to:
* Vehicle level displayed by indicator lamps and switches.
* Warning messages in multi-function display if vehicle is too low.


== Function ==

The functions of the AIRmatic with Adaptive Damping System (ADS) control module are divided as follows:
* Signal conditioning
* Function logic component
* Safety circuit

'''Signal conditioning'''

The following input signals are processed by the function logic component and used for calculations or to provide information:
* Calculation of body vertical acceleration
** Signal from body acceleration sensors
* Calculation of vehicle speed
** Wheel speed signal
** Speed status signal
* Calculation of longitudinal and lateral acceleration
** Wheel speed signal
** Signal from steering angle sensor
* Calculation of compressor control
** Outside temperature, outside air pressure signal
** Reservoir pressure signal
** Vehicle speed signal
** Vehicle level signal
** Duty cycle

* Calculation for valve control
** Level signal from left front axle, right front axle
** Rear axle level signal
* Calculation for control of main reservoir charge valve
** Level signal from left front axle, right front axle
** Rear axle
** Pressure signal
* Calculation of vehicle level
** Signal from level sensors
* Information signals (control)
** Signal from stop lamp switch
** Signal from comfort and sport switch
** Signal from level control switch
** Signal from door contact switch, trunk, remote control

'''Function logic component'''

The conditioned input signals are processed in the logic component and converted into output signals.

* Signal from body acceleration sensors (B24/3, B24/8, B24/9):
** The vertical acceleration of the vehicle is calculated using the signals from the body acceleration sensors.

* Front wheel speed signal, left and right:
** Using the wheel speed signal, the ESP control module calculates
** Vehicle speed
** Longitudinal acceleration
** Vehicle status. A distinction is made between a moving and a stationary vehicle. Incorrect wheel speed signals are also detected.

* Steering angle sensor signal (N49):
** The lateral acceleration of the vehicle is calculated using the steering angle sensor signal and the wheel speed signal.

* Signal from level sensors (B22/8, B22/9, B22/3):
** Both front axle level sensors each supply 2 signals. The sensors detect and transfer the distance between the wheel center and the body at both the left and right-hand side of the vehicle.
** The rear axle level sensor supplies 2 signals. The sensor detects and transfers the distance between the wheel center and the body (average calculated from left and right wheel).

* Brake lamp switch signal (S9/1):
** When the driver presses the brake pedal, a signal is received by the ADS logic component and the damping at all wheels is set to "hard". The pitch motion of the vehicle when braking can therefore be reduced.

* Comfort and sport switch signal (N72/1s3):
** The comfort and sport switch signal informs the system about the selection made by the driver between one comfort-oriented and 2 sporty damping maps. The "comfort" setting maintains the damping within the comfortable range as far as the driving style and road conditions will allow. The "Sport 1" setting makes the damping somewhat "harder". The "Sport 2" setting immediately sets the damping force to "hard". The driver's preferred settings are stored until changed by the driver (even with Ignition OFF).

* Signal from level adjustment switch (N72/1s2):
** The control module uses the signals from the level adjustment switch to determine the driver's preferences for the vehicle level:
*** Normal level
*** Raised level

* ADS II
** The control module uses the vertical body acceleration, longitudinal and lateral acceleration of the vehicle and the ground speed to determine the optimum level of damping. 4 different damping forces can be set at each wheel by controlling the damping valves located at each wheel. Phased in as of 09/00, the damping is set to the Sport 1 damping level if the vehicle speed is >160 km/h.

* Level control and adjustment
** The control module uses the setting of the level adjustment switch selected by the driver and the ground speed of the vehicle to control the appropriate level control valves and to set the correct vehicle level according to the vehicle load.
** The AIRmatic system is equipped with a pressure reservoir to keep the level control time as short as possible (e.g. after loading). The reservoir pressure is used only when required in order to prevent filling the reservoir too often. This happens, for example if the vehicle level falls below a critical level when loading the vehicle or if the driver has set the vehicle level to "raised level". Pressure from the reservoir is also used when the vehicle is stationary to minimize noise. With normal control when the vehicle is moving, the spring struts are supplied directly by the air compressor.

* Main reservoir pressure control
** The main control parameters are the pressure in the main reservoir, the outside air pressure and the vehicle speed.

* Compressor control
** The compressor is controlled via a relay. Since the compressor is not designed for continuous operation, the absolute running time and cooling phase are monitored to avoid overloading the compressor.

* Wake-up function
A parked vehicle is "woken up" before the engine is started. That is to say, the AIRmatic with ADS control module receives signals from the door contact switches, the trunk switch and infrared remote control indicating that the driver may soon start the engine and drive the vehicle. The current vehicle level is checked immediately and corrected if required. The vehicle level at the front axle is considered to be critical, for instance, if the full wheel angle can no longer be guaranteed. In this case a message appears on the multifunction display in the instrument cluster to warn the driver: "Stop car too low".
If the control module is woken (for example by opening one of the doors), there follows a period of spare time before the driver actually starts the engine during which the vehicle level is corrected. This reduces the waiting time required to correct the vehicle level and the vehicle is ready for driving more promptly. Pressure in the main reservoir is used to raise the stationary vehicle. The compressor is only used if the pressure reservoir is empty. It must be ensured that the battery voltage is sufficient to then start the engine.

* Locking function
If the control module detects that all wheels are unloaded when the vehicle is stationary, the valves of the spring struts are closed. The vehicle therefore remains at the current level. This is essential, for example, when changing a wheel or during repair work (lifting platform).

'''Safety circuit'''

The AIRmatic with ADS control module monitors all the important components of the system after they are switched on and during operation. The safety circuit detects faulty signals from sensors, faults in the control module and in the electric line system. If a fault is detected, the system is switched off and a message is displayed on the multifunction display in the instrument cluster to warn the driver.
The damper valves for ADS are no longer controlled and remain set to the "hard" damping level (driving safety level).
In addition, a fault code is stored in the control module. The level control is partially switched off depending on the fault that occurred. The system always strives to maintain the selected vehicle level.
Moreover, the safety circuit continuously monitors the battery voltage. If the voltage falls below 10.5 V or exceeds 17.5 V, the system is switched off until the voltage returns to the specified range.



=== Pressure Supply Function ===

[[File:W220_pressure_supply_function.jpg]]

* 42 - AIRmatic Central Reservoir
* A9/1 - AIRmatic Compressor Unit
* Y36/6 - Level Control Valve Unit

In normal driving mode, AIRmatic works with a pressure of between 6 and 10 bar (600 and 1,000 KPa or 87 and 145 psi) depending on the load.
An electrical compressor is used to supply pressure. This is installed in the AIRmatic Compressor Unit (A9/1).

In addition the system has an AIRmatic Central Reservoir (42) which stores the compressed-air.
The AIRmatic Central Reservoir (42) pressure is between 13 and 16 bar (1,300 and 1,600 KPa or 189 and 232 psi) (at sea level).

The AIRmatic system is either supplied with pressure via the AIRmatic Central Reservoir (42) or via the AIRmatic Compressor Unit (A9/1).

=== Level Control Function ===


The AIRmatic at the front and rear axle is a fully supporting
suspension system. It keeps the vehicle level constant when the
engine is running irrespective of the load. At the same time air
from the air compressor is delivered to the spring struts via the
valve unit until the vehicle level has been adjusted. The vehicle
level at the front axle is recorded by two level sensors at the front
axle and conveyed to the AIRmatic with ADS control module. The
level at the individual spring struts is controlled by four level valves
in the valve unit and a pressure relief valve on the AIRmatic compressor unit.

An AIRmatic central reservoir for compressed air also enables the
vehicle level to be controlled when the engine is not running. In
addition the adjustment of the vehicle level is decoupled from the
air compressor.

'''Shut-off position function'''

If the unloading of all the wheels when the vehicle is stationary is
recognized by the control module, the spring strut valves are
closed. The vehicle therefore remains at the current level. This is
required when changing a wheel or for repair work (hoist) for
example.

'''Normal function (engine running)'''

When the vehicle is stationary the level is readjusted if there is a
difference of more than +/- 10 mm after a door or the trunk lid is opened.

While driving the level is readjusted if there is a difference of more
than +/- 20 mm. The level is adjusted to +/- 10 mm every 15 minutes.

Depending on the situation, pressure can be generated by the
compressor or the pressure supply of the AIRmatic central
reservoir can be used to raise the vehicle. When the vehicle is
stationary the pressure from the reservoir is used for noise
reasons. Pressure can also be supplied from the compressor and
AIRmatic central reservoir at the same time when there is a
particularly high pressure demand.

The lowering of the vehicle level is recognized by the control
module from the level sensors when loading the vehicle.
By actuating solenoid valves air is delivered to the spring struts of the
particular front wheel or rear axle until the vehicle has reached its specified value.
In addition the pressure relief valve is opened to actuate the respective wheel valve when unloading the vehicle.

'''Wake-up function (operating period approx. 1 minute)'''

The AIRmatic with ADS control module is "woken up" using the remote control,
door contact switches or trunk illumination switch in order to check the current
vehicle level for critical conditions (level too low) and if necessary to raise
the vehicle or lower it when unloading.
If the vehicle level is lowered by more than 30 mm, it is raised to the normal
level by the reservoir (only with a reservoir pressure > 11 bar).
At a vehicle level of < -65 mm and even at a reservoir pressure of <11 bar it is
raised out of the "critical range" by the compressor to -63 mm (condition: battery voltage > 12.4 V).

If the vehicle level is raised by more than 10 mm when unloading,
it is lowered to the normal level by relieving the pressure.

The vehicle cannot be raised by the level control switch.

'''Function in vehicle condition "Ignition ON"'''

The same function as for the wake-up function, but without time limit.

'''Run-on function (operating period approx. 1 minute)'''

After "ignition OFF" the control module performs changes in the
level in order to be able to readjust the vehicle level (raise or
lower) during any loading or unloading operations. (The same
function as for the wake-up function).

== Components ==



{|
|[[File:W220_airmatic_location_of_electrical_electronic_components.jpg]]
|}

===Location of electrical/electronic components===
* A9/1 - AIRmatic compressor unit
* A1p13 - Multifunction display
* B7 - AIRmatic pressure sensor
* B22/3 - Rear axle level sensor
* B22/8 - Left front level sensor
* B22/9 - Right front level sensor
* B24/3 - Left front body acceleration sensor
* B24/4 - Right front body acceleration sensor
* B24/6 - Right rear body acceleration sensor
* K40/7 - Right front fuse and relay module
* kO - AIRmatic compressor relay
* N49 - Steering angle sensor
* N51 - AIRmatic with ADS control module
* N72/1s2 - Level control switch
* N72/1s3 - Comfort and sport switch
* S9/1 - Stop lamp switch
* X11/4 - Data link connector
* Y36/6 - Level control valve unit
* Y51 - Left front axle damping valve unit
* Y52 - Right front axle damping valve unit
* Y53 - Left rear axle damping valve unit
* Y54 - Right rear axle damping valve unit



[[File:W220_airmatic_location_of_pneumatic_hydraulic_components.jpg]]

===Location of pneumatic/hydraulic components===
* 40 - Front spring strut
* 41 - Rear spring strut
* 42 - AIRmatic central reservoir
* A9/1 - AIRmatic compressor unit
* Y36/6 - Level control valve unit
* Y51 - Left front axle damping valve unit
* Y52 - Right front axle damping valve unit
* Y53 - Left rear axle damping valve unit
* Y54 - Right rear axle damping valve unit

=== Compressor and cable related parts ===
[[File:W220_airmatic_compressor_and_cable_specification.png|thumb|none|Airmatic compressor and cable related parts in [[EPC]]]]

=== Compressor Relay (K40/7kO) ===
The Airmatic Compressor Relay (K40/7kO) is located in [[fuses|right fuse box]], location 'O' (the first one next to the three 40 amp fuses).
The relay starts and stops the Airmatic compressor.
A faulty relay may cause the compressor to overheat thus damaging it.
Hella relays have proven to be reliable. Part number 4RA 007 791-011 (A0025421319).


{|
|[[File:W220_Airmatic_Suspension_Compressor_Relay.JPG|thumb|none|Airmatic compressor relay in fuse box.]]
|[[File:W220 Airmatic Relay K40 7kO.jpg|thumb|none|Airmatic comressor relay (A0025421319).]]
|}

=== Compressor Relay Fuse (K40/7f32) ===
The compressor relay is powered by 40A [[fuses|fuse 32]] located in the right fuse box.
{|
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Fuse f32 40A Location.JPG|thumb|none|]]
|[[File:W220_Airmatic_fuse.jpg|thumb|none|Airmatic fuse (pre-[[facelift]])]]
|}

=== Compressor Unit (A9/1) ===
The electric compressor generates the pressure required to lift the vehicle. The pressure relief valve integrated in the AIRmatic Compressor Unit (A9/1) is used to lower the vehicle.

{|
|[[File:W220_AIRmatic_compressor_unit_location.jpg]]
|[[File:W220_airmatic_compressor_and_valve_block_bumper_off.jpg|thumb|none|AIRmatic compressor and valve block shown with bumper removed.]]
|}


{|
|[[File:W220_AIRmatic_compressor_unit.jpg|thumb|none|AIRmatic compressor unit (A9/1).]]
|
* A9/1 - AIRmatic Compressor Unit
* m1 - Air compressor motor
* a - Air filter/cleaner
* b - Overpressure/residual pressure valve
* c - Air drier
* g - Pressure relief line
|}

[[File:W220 2004 AIRmatic Compressor OEM Part Numbers.JPG|thumb|none|OE 2004 AIRmatic compressor unit.]]

==== Design of Compressor Unit ====

{|
|
[[File:W220_compressor_unit_design.png]]
|
* a - Air filter/cleaner
* b - Overpressure/residual pressure valve
* c - Air drier
* g - Pressure relief line
* h - Mounting plate
* A9/1 - AIRmatic compressor unit
* B7 - AIRmatic pressure sensor
* m1 - Air compressor motor
* Y36/6 - Level control valve unit
|}

The main part of the AIRmatic Compressor Unit (A9/1) is the compressor motor (m1). The other parts are the pressure relief valve, overpressure/residual pressure valve (b) and the air drier (c).

The air filter/cleaner (a) is located outside the compressor unit.
It is connected to the unit by a hose. The air released when the vehicle is lowered is returned to the air filter/cleaner via the line (g) where it is then guided back out through the filter.

The compressor unit is mounted to a mounting plate (h).

The AIRmatic Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) is fixed at the top of the same mounting plate as the compressor unit and is connected to the compressor by a pressure line.

The valve unit is attached to the AIRmatic pressure sensor (B7).

==== Function of AIRmatic Compressor Unit ====


{|
|[[File:W220_compressor_unit_function.png]]
|
* A9/1 - AIRmatic Compressor Unit
* m1 - Motor for air compressor
* y1 - Pressure relief valve for AIRmatic
* c - Air drier
* d - Outlet valve
* e - Inlet valve
* f - Piston
|}

The air compressor is driven by the compressor motor (m1). The
air to be compressed is sucked out of the vehicle longitudinal
member through an air filter/cleaner and into the chamber underneath the
piston. With the downward movement of the piston, the air passes
through the inlet valve (e) in the piston crown into the clearance
volume. With the upward movement of the piston, the inlet valve
closes and the air is compressed. The compressed air is forced on
via the outlet valve (d) into the air drier (c).

The silicate filling in the drier removes moisture from the air. From
the air drier the dehumidified and compressed air then passes from
the air drier into the central reservoir or directly to the suspension
struts as required.

The pressure relief valve installed in the compressor unit (y1) is
required for discharging air when lowering the vehicle. The
discharged air is conducted through the air filter/cleaner back into the
atmosphere. This also cleans the air filter/cleaner.

The air drier is maintenance free. The moisture is delivered back
into the air when reducing the pressure.

====Air Filter====
It is difficult to get reliable information about the scheduled maintenance interval on the AIRmatic air filter.
W220 community recommends to replace the air filter from time to time to prevent damage to the AIRmatic compressor.
The filter can fill up with debris and salt which may block the air filter/cleaner.
A new AIRmatic air filter costs around EUR 10, and it should not take more than 20 minutes to replace. For replacement method see the DIY compressor and filter replacement instructions below.

The air filter is protected with a protective boot. It may be hard to separate the filter from the rubber grommet housing. The housing may fail when trying to remove it, so make sure you have a replacement housing at hand. Put a dielectric grease on the inside of the housing prior to insertion of the replacement filter to support future removal.

'''Note''': The arrow on the air filter shows the 'UP' direction and not the direction of air flow which is both ways.

[[File:Airmatic Air Filter New and Old.JPG|thumb|none|Air filters (new and old).]]
{|
|[[File:Airmatic Air Filter 2203200069.JPG|thumb|none|Airmatic air filter A2203200069 (OEM MANN part: WK 32/6).]]
|
[[File:W220 AIRmatic Air Filter and Protective Boot.JPG|thumb|none|Air filter and protective boot.]]
[[File:W220 AIRmatic Air Filter Protective Boot Showing Part Number.JPG|thumb|none|Air filter protective boot ([[facelift]] A2203280279, pre-facelift A2203280179).]]
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eE9Z604KQmg|320|left|Airmatic filter replacement.|frame}}
|}

====Air Dryer====
Silica gel is used as a desiccant in compressor unit. It works by a process called adsorption.
The water in the air actually absorbs between the tiny passages as the air passes through them.
The water molecules become trapped so that the air is dried out as it passes through the filter.
This process is reversible. If the silica gel desiccant is heated it will release the trapped water.
This process is called regenerating the desiccant.
Once saturated with water, the gel can be regenerated by heating it to 120 °C (250 °F) for 1–2 hours.
However, silica gel degrades after very few cycles if heated to 110°C or more.
For maximum longevity dry it at just 80°C. It won't take much longer but will last longer and work just as well as a desiccant.

Once the silica gel gets saturated with water, the moisture will get in the system.
Moisture will accelerate oxidation of aluminium parts (e.g., valve block).

Mercedes documentation claims that desiccant used for air drying is maintenance free.
However, for the longevity of our vehicles, it is recommended to change the desiccant along with the air filter at some point.
There are compressor unit repair kits sold on eBay that come with new dust filters and silica gel filling.

Note: The original silica gel drier beads are multi sized and a volume is calculated (gaps of air between the beads). This volume is impossible to calculate and replicate using aftermarket beads, therefore, it is recommended to dry and refit the original beads as exchanging them for new will lower the compressor flow rate (around 10-15%).



{|
|[[File:W220_airmatic_compressor_unit_air_dryer_dust_filter.jpg|thumb|none|Air dryer dust filter.]]
|[[File:W220_airmatic_compressor_unit_air_dryer_desiccant_silica_gel.jpg|thumb|none|Air dryer desiccant - silica gel.]]
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3-173vjZo0|320|left|Wabco air compressor air dryer desiccant replacement.|frame}}
|}

==== Electrical connectors ====
* Power supply - A1685453628 (from compressor relay K40/7kO)
* Pressure release valve - A1685452928 (from AIRmatic control module N51)

=== Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) ===


Located on the AIRmatic Compressor Unit in the right front fender, the Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) is the central control unit for the level control, level adjustment and suspension. It supplies the AIRmatic front and rear spring struts (40, 41) and the AIRmatic Central Reservoir (42) with compressed-air.

The Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) is commonly referred to as the "valve block".

==== Parts ====

It is a common fault for the valve block to fail open. A new valve block unit (A2203200258) costs around EUR 290.
In case of o-ring failure, they can be replaced (see the valve block o-ring repair kits available in the section below).
Cheap Chinese clones made of plastic are available on Aliexpress, but in our experience they started to leak in less than a year of operation.

{|
|[[File:W220_level_control_valve_unit.jpg|thumb|none|Y36/6 Level control valve unit.]]
|[[File:W220_valve_block_colored.jpg|thumb|none|Y36/6 Level control valve unit.]]
|[[File:W220_A2203200258_valve_block.jpg|thumb|none|Valve block (A2203200258).]]
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8n5LWoqv_8M|320|left|Chinese plastic clone (60 USD on Aliexpress)|frame}}
|}

Miessler Automotive has created after-market valve block (EUR 200) claiming
to have better quality than the original, i.e., being absolutely weatherproof without
the risk of corrosion as the original.

{|
|[[File:W220_valve_block_Miessler.jpg|thumb|none|Miessler valve block (VENT5X22W220)]]
|[[File:W220_valve_block_Miessler_back.jpg|thumb|none|Miessler valve block (back)]]
|}

==== Design of Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) ====


The AIRmatic Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) is attached to the same
retaining plate as the AIRmatic Compressor Unit (A9/1). It has a
solenoid valve for each wheel (y1, y2, y3 and y4) for raising or lowering the vehicle.
The AIRmatic central reservoir charge (y5) is also installed in the valve unit.
The AIRmatic pressure sensor (B7) is located on the end face of the valve unit.

{|
|[[File:W220_level_control_valve_unit_design.jpg]]
|
Six polyamide lines lead from the AIRmatic Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) to these components connected at port:
* 1 - Left front spring strut
* 2 - Right front spring strut
* 3 - Left rear spring strut
* 4 - Right rear spring strut
* 5 - AIRmatic central reservoir
* P - Air compressor (opened or closed by pressure release valve in the compressor unit (A9/1))
|}

{|
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Valve Unit Y36 6 Air Line Connection Colour Codes.JPG|thumb|none|Valve block.]]
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Valve Unit Y36 6 Air Line Connection Designations.JPG|thumb|none|Line designations.]]
|}

==== Function of Level Control Valve Unit ====



{|
|[[File:W220_level_control_valve_unit_function.png|600px]]
|
* 40 - Front spring strut
* 41 - Rear spring strut
* k - Residual pressure holding valve
* 42 - AIRmatic central reservoir
* A9/1 - AIRmatic compressor unit
* m1 - Air compressor motor
* y1 - AIRmatic pressure release valve
* B7 - AIRmatic pressure sensor
* Y36/6 - Level control valve unit
* y1 - Left front level control valve
* y2 - Right front level control valve
* y3 - Left rear level control valve
* y4 - Right rear level control valve
* y5 - AIRmatic central reservoir charge valve
* a - Air cleaner
* b - Pressure relief/residual pressure valve
* c - Air drier
|}
For reasons of safety only one valve is ever actuated at the same time. If an axle is too low, cycling takes place between the left and right level valve.

'''Raising the vehicle'''

The front left, front right, rear left and rear right level valves (y1, y2, y3, y4) are opened as required and the compressed-air stored in the central reservoir or generated by the air compressor motor flows from the level control valve unit (Y36/6) to the individual spring struts.

As soon as the required vehicle level is reached at a front wheel, the respective level valve (y1 or y2) closes, the other valve still remains open until the same vehicle level has also been adjusted at the other wheel.

At the rear axle both level control valves (y3 and y4) close when the vehicle level averaged between the right and left wheel corresponds to the specified level set by the control module.

'''Lowering the vehicle'''

All the wheel level control valves (y1, y2, y3 and y4) are open in the level control valve unit (Y36/6).

In addition the AIRmatic pressure release valve (y1) in the AIRmatic compressor unit (A9/1) is open and the compressed-air is reduced via this valve.

At the same time the level valves of the individual wheels remain open until the desired vehicle level is reached at each front wheel and at the rear axle.

=== AIRmatic Pressure Sensor (B7) ===




The AIRmatic Pressure Sensor (B7) is located in the right front fender on the AIRmatic Level Control Valve Unit. It measures the system pressure and is used to carry out plausibility checks.

{|
|[[File:W220_AIRmatic_pressure_sensor.jpg]]
|[[File:W220_AIRmatic_pressure_sensor_location.jpg]]
|}

==== Function of Pressure Sensor (B7) ====



{|
|[[File:W220_pressure_sensor_function.jpg]]
|
* a - Electronic module (hybrid)
* b - Fluid pressure
* c - Line
* d - Metal housing
* e - Glass body
* f - Glass insulation
* g - Reference pressure
* h - Pressure sensor
* i - Silicone oil
* k - Metal protective diaphragm
|}

A sensor element compares the fluid pressure (b) to be measured
with a reference pressure (g) in the sensor. The pressure (b) is
transmitted to the actual sensor element (h) by means of a metal
protective diaphragm (k) and a silicone oil layer (i).

An electronics module (a) which supplies the pressure signal in the
form of an analog voltage to the control module, is located on the
metal housing (d).

==== Parts ====
Pressure sensor is part of the valve block, but in case of a pressure sensor failure, the pressure sensor can be unscrewed (using 27mm wrench) from the valve block and replaced separately.

* OE: A2205420118
* THERMOTEC KTT130043 (20 EUR)
* NRF 38953 (20 EUR)
* MAXGEAR AC186345 (20 EUR)

[[File:W220_airmatic_valve_block_pressure_sensor.jpg|thumb|none|Pressure sensor detached from the valve block]]

=== Level Sensor (B22/3, B22/8, B22/9) ===

The Level Sensor (1) function is to detect the vehicle height at the front axle and rear axle and supply the values to the AIRmatic with ADS control module.

The Level Sensor works by detecting the vehicle height using a link rod from upper transverse control arm at left and right front axle. A sensor at the rear axle monitors the movement of the torsion bar and determines the average vehicle height.

{|
|[[File:W220_left_front_level_sensor.png|thumb|none|B22/8 Left front level sensor (Location mirror image for B22/9 Right front level sensor).]]
|[[File:W220_rear_axle_level_sensor.png|thumb|none|B22/3 Rear axle level sensor.]]
|[[File:W220_level_sensor.png|thumb|none|Level sensor.]]
|}
The Level Sensors consist of two Hall Effect sensors in a single housing which produce two signals (redundant design).

Sensor failure is detected by comparing the two redundant signals of each sensor.

Level Sensor Identification
* B22/3 - Rear axle level sensor
* B22/8 - Left front level sensor
* B22/9 - Right front level sensor

Part Numbers:
* All 3 sensors have the same part number A0105427617 (EUR 150 OE, EUR 70 aftermarket) or A0105427717 (for vehicle with [[ABC]] suspension).
* Link for rear level sensor A2203200032 (EUR 40).
{|
|[[File:W220_A0105427617_airmatic_level_sensor.jpg|thumb|none|Airmatic level sensor A0105427617.]]
|[[File:W220_A2203200032_link_at_rear_level_sensor.jpg|thumb|none|Link at rear level sensor A2203200032.]]
|[[File:W220_rear_level_sensor_link.jpg|thumb|none|Level sensor installed in rear.]]
|}

A common fault is rust on the link of the rear level sensor. The link can be fixed or even self-made.
{|
|[[File:W220_repaired_link_at_rear_level_sensor.jpg|thumb|none|Repaired link for rear level sensor.]]
|[[File:W220_self-made_link_at_rear_level_sensor.jpg|thumb|none|Self-made link for rear level sensor.]]
|}

Part Numbers:
* Link (rod) for front left/right level sensor A2203200389 (EUR 28)
* Sensor bracket front left - A2203270840 (EUR 70)
* Sensor bracket front right - A2203270940 (EUR 70)

{|
|[[File:W220_EPC_front_axle_level_sensor.png|thumb|none|Front axle level sensor (from EPC).]]
|[[File:W220_level_sensor_rod_front_A2203200389.jpg|thumb|none|Front level sensor rod left/right (A2203200389).]]
|[[File:W220_front_right_level_sensor.jpg|thumb|none|Front level sensor with rod and right bracket.]]
|}

=== AIRmatic Central Reservoir (42) ===

Metal compressed air reservoir.
Stores compressed air for level control.
Used for decoupling between compressor and level control.

{|
|

[[File:W220_central_reservoir_location.jpg]]
|

[[File:W220_AIRmatic_central_reservoir.jpg|thumb|none|42 - AIRmatic central reservoir.]]
|}

[[File:W220_airmatic_central_reservoir_bumper_off.jpg|thumb|none|AIRmatic central reservoir shown with bumper removed.]]

=== Comfort and sport switch (N72/1s3) ===


This switch controls Adaptive Damping System (ADS).

The switch with the indicator lamps is located in the upper part of the center console.

{|
|[[File:W220_damping_switch.png|thumb|none|Damping switch ([[facelift]]).]]
|[[File:W220_damping_switch_prefacelift.jpg|thumb|none|Damping switch (pre-[[facelift]]).]]
|[[File:W220_vehicle_level_control_switch_prefacelift_before_september_1999.jpg|thumb|none|Level and damping switch (produced up to 08/99).]]
|}

The ADS automatically selects the optimum damping for the respective driving conditions. At the same time the suspension is set to either sporty or regular.

The suspension tuning is set according to:
* Your driving style
* Road surface conditions
* Your choice of suspension style, "sport" or "convenience", which you select using the damping switch.

The following suspension styles are available:
* "Convenience" - both indicator lamps (1) are off.
* "Sports 1" - one indicator lamp (1) is on.
* "Sports 2" - both indicator lamps (1) are on (on vehicles produced after 09/99).

The selected suspension style is stored in memory, even after the SmartKey is removed from the starter switch.

=== Level Control Switch (N72/1s2) ===



{|
|[[File:W220_vehicle_level_control_switch.png|thumb|none|Level control switch (facelift).]]
|[[File:W220_vehicle_level_control_switch_prefacelift.jpg|thumb|none|Level control switch (pre-facelift).]]
|}

This switch controls AIRmatic Level Control System.

The following vehicle level settings can be selected when the vehicle is stationary:
* "Normal" - for driving on normal roads. The indicator lamp (1) is off.
* "Raised" - for driving on rough roads or with snow chains. The indicator lamp (1) is on.

Select the "Raised" level setting only when required by current driving conditions. Otherwise the fuel consumption may increase and handling may be impaired.

The vehicle chassis ride height is raised or lowered according to the selected level setting and to the vehicle speed
(these height adjustments are so small that you may not notice any change):
* With increasing speed, ride height is reduced by up to approximately 3/4 in (20 mm).
* With decreasing speed, the ride height is again raised to the selected vehicle level.

The selected vehicle level setting remains stored in memory even if the engine is turned off and restarted. However, the vehicle lowers to regular level when you exceed a speed of 75 mph (120 km/h) or maintain a speed of between 50 mph (80 km/h) and 75 mph (120 km/h) for more than 5 minutes.


This can be used to raise the vehicle level by 25 mm (20 mm USA).
The raised level switch position is indicated by the red indicator lamp (1) in the switch.
In addition, the multifunction display in the instrument cluster displays: "AIRMATIC VEHICLE RISING".

{|
|[[File:W220_airmatic_vehicle_rising_prefacelift.jpg|thumb|none|"AIRMATIC VEHICLE RISING!" message on the instrument cluster (pre-facelift).]]
|}

As long as the multifunction display in the instrument cluster shows the message: "AIRMATIC VEHICLE RISING",
the desired vehicle level has not yet been reached.
If the raising of the vehicle is cancelled due to the driving speed,
the instrument cluster displays the following message for approx. 10s: "AIRMATIC LEVEL SETTING CANCELLED".
If the vehicle is raised several times in quick succession, it may happen that the air compressor shuts down
temporarily in order to prevent an overload. The raising sequence will then take an unusually long time.

=== AIRmatic with ADS Control Module (N51) ===

AIRmatic with ADS Control Module (N51) is located in left fuse box.
Its task is to execute all control functions of ADS and AIRmatic.


{|
|[[File:W220_air_suspension_control_unit.jpg|thumb|none|Location of Airmatic control module.]]
|[[File:W220_air_control_module_connectors_removed.jpg|thumb|none|Module with connectors unplugged.]]
|[[File:W220_air_control_module_removed.jpg|thumb|none|Airmatic control module.]]
|}

The AIRmatic with ADS Control Module (N51) receives input signals over CAN Bus from the following components:
* ESP control module
* Engine control module
* Transmission control module
* Instrument cluster
* Steering angle sensor
* ADS comfort and sport switch
* Level adjustment switch
* Three body accelerometers
* Two front axle level sensors
* One rear axle level sensor
* One Airmatic pressure sensor


The input signals are converted in the AIRmatic with ADS Control Module (N51) to output signals for the following components:
* Four Level control valves
* One main reservoir charge valve
* Four ADS damper valves
* Multi-function display
* Switch indicator lamps
* Air compressor

=== AIRmatic Suspension Spring Strut (40, 41) ===


The Air Suspension Spring Strut takes over all the functions of suspension, level control, level adjustment and damping to be carried out.
{|
|[[File:W220_front_axle_strut.png|thumb|none|40 - Front axle spring strut.]]
|[[File:W220_rear_axle_strut.png|thumb|none|41 - Rear axle spring strut.]]
|[[File:W220_airmatic_front_strut.jpg]]
|}

==== Design of Air Suspension Spring Struts (40, 41) ====

A single-tube gas-filled damper unit or shock absorber is integrated into the air spring strut.
A residual pressure valve is incorporated into the inlet fitting on the top of each air spring strut.

{|
|[[File:W220_airmatic_strut_function.jpg|800px]]
[[File:W220_airmatic_strut_design.jpg|800px]]
|
* a - Strut tube
* b - Cylindrical tube
* c - Piston rod gasket
* d - Piston rod guide
* e - Piston rod
* f - Working piston
* g - Rebound buffer spring
* h - Air bag or bladder
* i - Stop buffer
* k - Residual pressure valve
* l - Air chamber
* m - Dividing piston
* n - Protective boot or bellows
* o - Gas pressure chamber
|}

=====Design of Front Axle Spring Strut (40)=====
The Front axle air spring strut (40) consists of three main systems:
* Dust cover and protective boot called a bellows
* Air spring (strut top, residual pressure holding valve (k), seals, air bag/bladder (h) , strut tube (a))
* Gas pressurized damper or single-tube gas-filled shock absorber.

The coponents of the front axle spring strut are shown in the figures below.
The air spring plunger is item 8 in the figure. It is the conical flared lower end of the protective boot or bellows.
The air spring plunger fits over the support bushing which is the conical seat or item 9 on the damper unit.

{|
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Front Strut Internal View Annotated version 3.jpg|thumb|none|Components of front axle spring strut.]]
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Protective Boot or Bellows.JPG|thumb|none|Protective boot or bellows.]]
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Air Spring Plunger and Support Bushing.JPG|thumb|none|Air spring plunger and support bushing.]]
|}

Front struts on W220s up to about 2004 did not have epoxy installed at the factory. Also many of the older style front strut have now been modified with mastic or epoxy added. Note: The epoxy is not the seal for the upper strut. It is a vibration damper to help the narrow neck of the brass valve at the top of the strut avoid cracking and leaking due to vibration. If you have a leak in this older style front strut there is a kit you can buy to fix the leak (top seal repair kit A2203202538, see below). Scraping out the old black epoxy and filling it back in will not fix this. The part that leaks is a half metal and rubber cap under the black epoxy and is secured with a metal lock ring. The newer seals have rubber mastic compound poured in the center to seal the circumference of the upper metal cap on the upper part of the front strut and to keep the brass fitting from breaking off.

{|
|[[File:W220_airmatic_front_strut_top_seal_leak.jpg|thumb|none|Front strut top seal leaking.]]
|[[File:W220 Airmatic Front Strut Older Type.jpg|thumb|none|Oldest style front strut without epoxy.]]
|[[File:W220 Airmatic Front Strut Newer Type.jpg|thumb|none|Newest style front strut with mastic.]]
|}

====Operation of Air Spring Struts (40, 41) ====
* When filled with air, the rubber air bag or bladder (h) rolls up and down the alloy lower section strut tube (a).
* The strut tube (a) is covered by a protective boot or bellows.
* Without air and under load the protective boot or bellows is allowed to kink and crease and the air bag or bladder would also have the top pressed hard into the inside of the air chamber (l).
* The only sliding action is in the strut damper unit which is oil filled and gas pressurized.

==== Function of Air Spring Struts (40, 41) ====


The weight of the vehicle is carried by the compressible air (l) sealed into the air bag or bladder of the air springs. The rolling air bag or bladder (h) is made of rubber. Under dynamic load during driving, the air bag or bladder (h) rolls up parallel with the axis of the spring strut, thus providing the necessary spring travel. The roll-up zone on the air spring strut is sealed off from the outside by a rubber protective boot or bellows (n) as a protection against dirt.

The vehicle level is raised/lowered by increasing/reducing the air pressure in the air chamber (l),
which results in a lengthening/shortening of the air spring strut (40).

'''Residual Pressure Holding Valve (k)'''

Each air spring strut incorporates a residual pressure holding valve (k) which blocks off the air spring pressure chamber from the supply line in the event of a pressure drop at or below a residual pressure of 4-5 bar.
[[File:W220 AIRmatic Residual Pressure Holding Valve 01.JPG|thumb|none|Residual pressure valve.]]

==== Parts (Spring Strut) ====

[[File:W220_airmatic_spring_struct_and_mounting_front_rear.png|thumb|none|Airmatic strut (front, rear) related parts in [[EPC]]]]

{| class="wikitable"
! Part
! Part no.
! Image
! Description
|-
|17
|A2203520027
TRW JBU167
|[[File:A2203520027_TRW_JBU167.jpg|100px]]
|Supporting joint. Damper strut mounting.
|-
|25
|N910105014017
|[[File:N910105014017.jpg|100px]]
|Hexagon head bolt. Hydropneumatic spring leg to spring control arm M14X1.5X80.
|-
|30
|N000000003277
|[[File:N000000003277.jpg|100px]]
|Nut. Hydropneumatic spring leg to spring control arm M14X1.5.
|}

'''OE:'''

Front (without 4MATIC):
* A2203205113 (replaced by A2203202438)
* A2203202438

Front (4MATIC):
* Left: A2203202138
* Right: A2203202238

Rear:
* A2203205013
* A2203207913 (for [[Data Card|option code]] Z04)
* A2203207813 (for [[Data Card|option code]] Z07) (replaced by A2203202338)
* A2203202338 (for [[Data Card|option code]] Z07)


'''OEM (Bilstein):'''

Since Bilstein is OE manufacturer for W220 AIRmatic struts, it is possible to buy OE struts directly from Bilstein much cheaper. It is possible to purchase a brand new Bilstein strut for about EUR 700.

* Front left (4Matic): 44-051518
* Front right (4Matic): 44-051525
* Front: 44-042295
* Rear: 44-042301

'''Miessler Automotive'''

Miessler Automotive sells new struts having the same features as the OEM.

* Front: FBN0-002S-4229
* Rear: FBN0-002S-4230
* Front right (4Matic): FBN0-002S-2238
* Front left (4Matic): FBN0-002S-2138

'''Arnott:'''

Arnott sells both new and remanufactured AIRmatic struts.
It is possible to get 10% discount [http://www.benzworld.org/forums/arnott-inc/2152737-arnott-air-suspension-discount-code-still.html] when making an order online.

Arnott claims [http://www.benzworld.org/forums/arnott-inc/1508879-airmatic-failure-pictures-details.html] that their products use an improved double thickness air spring bag/bladder manufactured by Continental which provides longer lifetime than the OE.

In fact, Arnott provides limited lifetime warranty [https://www.arnotteurope.com/images/Arnott%20Europe%20Warranty%20Info%202015.pdf] for their AIRmatic Air Suspension Struts.

* ''Arnott Remanufactured''. An Arnott remanufactured AIRmatic strut costs about US$575, but note that it only has installed a new rubber air bags/bladders and not the shock piston seals or gas charge.

 
* ''Arnott New''. Arnott new Air Spring Struts cost about US$624.

{|
|[[File:W220 Arnotts Remanufactured Airmatic Struts.JPG|thumb|none|Arnott's remanufactured struts.]]
|[[File:W220 Arnott New Front Air Strut 2203202238.JPG|thumb|none|Arnott new struts.]]
|}

Note that with all new Arnott AIRmatic struts you lose the electronic damping feature.
While the new Arnott struts allow to plug in the original wire harness from the car, it simply fools the AIRmatic computer in to thinking the selective damping is functioning. In reality it is not and the shock has constant damping setting corresponding to OE "comfort/convenience" setting ("sport 1" and "sport 2" damping settings are not available).

{|
|[[File:W220_front_strut_OE_crosscut.png|thumb|none|OE front strut (crosscut).]]
|[[File:W220_front_strut_Arnott_crosscut.png|thumb|none|Arnott new front strut.]]
|}

'''Mechanical springs:'''

A mechanical spring version of the complete suspension strut which eliminates the pneumatic parts can be bought from [https://www.strutmasters.com/ Strut masters]. This requires both sides to be replaced as a minimum, and possibly all four wheels should be done together. This method uses clever electronic components to "trick" the W220 computers into sensing that an AIRmatic is actually installed so that error messages are not displayed. The '''BIG''' disadvantage is the loss of air suspension ride quality, automatic leveling and damping options. In some countries such modified cars will not pass annual technical inspection.

=== Adaptive Damping System (ADS II) ===
====Function of Adaptive Damping System (ADS II)====

The Adaptive Damping System (ADS II) via the Damping Valve Unit (Y51, Y52, Y53, Y54) adapts the damping force to the driving style and road condition.

The damping force is regulated in damping valves (Y51, Y52, Y53, Y54).
Each wheel has one damping valve installed between the upper and lower
chambers of the single-pipe gas-filled shock absorber.

Each damping valve contains two electromagnetic valves (y1, y2),
allowing four different damping force settings according to how they are
actuated via the AIRmatic with ADS control module.

The extremely short adjusting time (milliseconds) means that the optimum
damping force setting is available almost immediately if sudden changes
in the vehicle level are required, such as during an obstacle-avoidance maneuver.

{|
|[[File:W220_left_rear_axle_damping_valve.jpg|thumb|none|Y53 Left rear axle damping valve.]]

|[[File:W220_left_front_axle_damper_valve.png|thumb|none|Y53 Left rear axle damper valve (mirror image for Y54).]]
|[[File:W220_left_rear_axle_damper_valve.png|thumb|none|Y51 Left front axle damper valve (mirror image for Y52).]]
|}

===== Design of Damping Valve Unit (Y51, Y52, Y53, Y54)=====
* Y51 - left front axle damping valve
* y1 - front axle solenoid valve 1
* y2 - front axle solenoid valve 2
* p - piston reed valve pack

[[File:W220_adaptive_damping_system_function.jpg|600px]]

[[File:W220_damping_valve_design.jpg]]

The Damping Valve Unit (Y51, Y52, Y53, Y54) consists of a casing and
2-piston reed valve packs (p). Located above are the spring-loaded
solenoid valve pistons and the solenoids. The valve pistons and
solenoids form the solenoid valve units (y1, y2).

If the solenoid valve coils (y1, y2) are not actuated, the spring-loaded
solenoid valve pistons (y1, y2) keep the holes directly below them closed.
Oil is displaced via the reed valve packs (p) and the oil duct located
diagonally opposite in the casing.

If the solenoid valve coil (y1) is actuated, for example, the solenoid
valve piston (y1) allows the hole to open and the oil can flow over
this hole. Only a small amount of oil is displaced via the piston
reed valve pack (p). The damping force levels are achieved by
means of the differently positioned reed valve packs and
controlling the solenoid valves.

===== Components of Damping Valve Unit (Y51, Y52, Y53, Y54)=====

{|
|[[File:W220_damping_valve_function.png|thumb|Illustration shows front axle suspension strut and associated Damping Valve Unit. The reed valves (a, b, c, d) consist of a ball valve and throttle.]]
|
* 40 - Front axle air suspension strut
* Y51 - Damping valve
* y1 - Solenoid valve 1
* y2 - Solenoid valve 2
* a - Bypass valve, hard compression
* b - Bypass valve, soft rebound
* c - Bypass valve, hard rebound
* d - Bypass valve, soft compression
* f - Operating piston
* m - Dividing piston
* o - Pressure chamber
* r - Bottom valve
|}

====Force Settings====
The ADS suspension control module is used to achieve four different damping force settings:

; Damping force setting 1
:For comfortable rolling with small sprung mass vibrations and low longitudinal and lateral acceleration. With this damping force setting both solenoid valves y1 and y2 are open so that most of the oil flows parallel to the hard rebound and compression of the operating piston via the softer reed valves at the solenoid valves. The ''comfort'' rebound and compression setting is therefore achieved.

; Damping force setting 2
:The reed valves at the valve piston generate a firmer setting. If the vehicle is lowered, solenoid valve y2 is opened and solenoid valve y1 is closed. The reed valves (a = hard compression and b = soft rebound) at solenoid valve y1 generate a ''hard'' compression and a ''soft'' rebound.

; Damping force setting 3
: The reed valves at the valve piston generate an even firmer setting. If the vehicle is raised, solenoid valve y1 is opened and solenoid valve y2 is closed. The reed valves (c = hard rebound and b = soft compression) at solenoid valve y2 generate a ''hard'' rebound and a ''soft'' compression.

; Damping force setting 4 (driving safety setting)
:For increased driving safety with high longitudinal and lateral vehicle acceleration. Both solenoid valves y1 and y2 are closed. The reed valves (a = hard compression and c = hard rebound) generate a ''hard'' compression and rebound. All the oil flows via the hard rebound and compression of the operating piston. This damping force setting is also selected if the ADS system fails and the ADS suspension warning light (A1e27) comes on in the instrument cluster.

{| class="wikitable"
|+Switching for damping force settings
! rowspan="2"| Damping force setting
! colspan="2"| Damping valves (Y51-Y54)
! colspan="2"| Valve control
|-
! Rebound
! Compression
! Solenoid valve (y1)
! Solenoid valve (y2)
|-
| 1
| Comfort
| Comfort
| Open
| Open
|-
| 2
| Soft
| Hard
| Closed
| Open
|-
| 3
| Hard
| Soft
| Open
| Closed
|-
| 4
| Hard
| Hard
| Closed
| Closed
|}

The "Actuations" menu under the AIRmatic control module in [[DAS]] can be used to force a damping setting for a particular strut regardless of the ride conditions. The "Development data" menu (in German) can be used to force damping setting for all struts (F3 - the hardest setting, F6 - the softest setting).
{|
|[[File:W220_DAS_actuation_of_the_right_rear_damper_valves.png|thumb|none|AIRmatic - Actuations - Damper valves - Right rear damper valves]]
|[[File:W220_DAS_development_data_FN_Daempfstufe.png|thumb|none|AIRmatic - Development data - Actuations - Complete index of actuations - Dämpfstufe (FN_Daempfstufe)]]
|}

=== Multifunction display (A1p13) ===
Various messages concerning the AIRmatic and ADS are shown in the multifunction display in the instrument cluster and in the comfort and sport and level adjustment switches.

'''AIRMATIC VISIT WORKSHOP!'''


In the event of electrical faults in the AIRmatic or ADS system, the following message appears on the multifunction display in the instrument cluster: "AIRMATIC VISIT WORKSHOP!".

The fault is stored in the ADS suspension control module and can be read out using the diagnosis tool.
{|
|[[File:W220_airmatic_visit_workshop_prefacelift.jpg|thumb|none|"AIRMATIC VISIT WORKSHOP!" warning on the instrument cluster (pre-[[facelift]]).]]
|[[File:W220_Warning_Airmatic_Visit_Workshop.jpg|thumb|none|"AIRMATIC VISIT WORKSHOP!" warning on the instrument cluster ([[facelift]]).]]
|}

'''Limp-home Function'''

A malfunction in the adaptive damping system causes the ADS to shut down.
The suspension is switched to the hardest setting.
In the event of a fault in the suspension system or in the level adjustment system,
the vehicle attempts to maintain the set level.
Manual and automatic level adjustments are no longer possible.

'''AIRMATIC STOP, CAR TOO LOW!'''


If the vehicle level at the front axle is more than 50 mm (60 mm USA), or at the rear axle more than 60 mm (70 mm USA) below the normal level, the multifunction display in the instrument cluster displays the warning: "AIRMATIC STOP, CAR TOO LOW!".

[[File:W220_Warning_Stop_Car_Too_Low.jpg|thumb|none|"AIRMATIC STOP, CAR TOO LOW!" warning on the instrument cluster.]]

The display disappears again when the level has risen back to 48 mm or 58 mm (58 mm or 68 mm USA) respectively below the normal level.

==Issues and Troubleshooting ==
'''Note''': If the AIRmatic leaks substantially it is imperative that it be fixed as soon as possible or else the AIRmatic pump may burn out. If the leak cannot be fixed immediately remove the AIRmatic compressor relay (K40/7kO) to disable the AIRmatic Pump. For the relay and fuse locations see above. However '''BE WARNED''', the vehicle may leak enough to be not drivable when turning the front wheels causes them to touch the top of the wheel arch (for 18" wheels and larger).

=== "AIRMATIC VISIT WORKSHOP!" message on the instrument cluster ===
[[File:W220_Warning_Airmatic_Visit_Workshop.jpg|thumb|none|"AIRMATIC VISIT WORKSHOP!" warning on the instrument cluster.]]

This message is shown in the event of electrical faults in the AIRmatic or ADS system. Use DAS to read error codes.

{| class="wikitable"
! Error Code
! Description
! Probable cause
|-
|C1324-001
|Fault in component Y53y1 (Left rear solenoid valve 1) in assembly Y53 (left rear axle damping valve unit)
|Could be caused by faulty solenoid valve in the strut in which case the strut or strut's damping valve unit should be replaced.
If the error code comes in pair with second selenoid valve of the strut then the problem is very likely in the connection.
Check the electronic connection between the strut and AIRmatic with ADS control module (N51).
|-
|C1325-001
|Fault in component Y53y2 (Left rear solenoid valve 2) in assembly Y53 (left rear axle damping valve unit)
|See above.
|-
|C1517-128
|Suspension strut is implausible.
|This error code is shown when the AIRmatic system supplies or releases air from the strut, but does not observe the intended effect (likely level sensor or pressure sensor does not show the expected result). For example, it has been reported to appear in case where hoses on the valve block were mixed up. The AIRmatic system thought that it is pumping air in reservoir, but actually the air was passed to strut (and vice versa).
|}

=== "AIRMATIC STOP, CAR TOO LOW!" message on the instrument cluster ===
{|
|[[File:W220_Warning_Stop_Car_Too_Low.jpg|thumb|none|"AIRMATIC STOP, CAR TOO LOW!" warning on the instrument cluster.]]
|[[File:W220_airmatic_level_too_low.jpg|thumb|none|Airmatic strut with too low pressure resulting in vehicle height being too low.]]
|}

===Vehicle Level Too Low===
Most common reason for a car being too low is a leaking strut. The strut itself has a residual pressure holding valve which is designed to stop air escaping out of the strut once the internal pressure drops below a residual pressure of 4-5 bar.

Note: the same symptoms as a leaking strut can be experienced if the line to the strut is faulty or the valve block is faulty (see section "Level Control Valve Unit Leaking" and "Inspecting AIRmatic Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) for leaks"), so '''be sure to eliminate these causes''' before replacing a strut.

====Air Bag/Bladder Leaking====
Usually the the most common source of a leaking strut is a failed rubber Air Bag/Bladder (h).

Failure is caused by the Air Spring Air Bag/Bladder (h) chafing against the protective alloy dust cover over time. The original Air Bag/Bladder (h) is made from a very thin single nylon cord layer, and vertical weak spots or lines will develop and eventually pop through, causing a complete failure.
{|
|[[File:Airmatic_worn_air_spring_bladder_outside.jpg|300px]]
|[[File:Airmatic_worn_air_spring_bladder_inside.jpg|300px]]
|[[File:Airmatic_arnott_airspring.jpg|300px]]
|}

Unlike the OE Air Bag/Bladder, re-manufactured ones usually use two ply rubber design that prevents vertical wear points and the Air Bag/Bladder is usually over two times thicker than the original one.

It is possible to replace a damaged Air Bag/Bladder (h), however, the rubber Air Bag/Bladder is attached to the strut tube and strut top with crimp rings. This requires access to an hydraulic crimper, which is not easily available for a DIYer.

Fortunately, it is possible to purchase on eBay a refurbished Air Spring which is the top part of an air suspension strut for around EUR 120 and mount it to the original damper unit (the lower part of an air suspension strut).
{|
|[[File:W220_airmatic_front_air_spring_repair_kit.jpg|thumb|none|Air Spring of the front strut.]]
|[[File:W220_airmatic_rear_air_spring_repair_kit.jpg|thumb|none|Air Spring of the rear strut.]]
|}

This requires the Strut to be removed from the car and the Air Spring to be separated from the Damper unit by partly dismantling the Air Spring. For the DIY Procedure see section "Replacing the Air Spring in an AIRmatic Strut".

If the leak is severe, a hissing sound can be heard from the wheel house area.

A faulty strut can often be located visually by observing the relative heights of each corner of the vehicle, but be aware that it is very likely that the wheel on the other side (or the wheel on other axle on the same side) will also be brought down significantly, but usually to a smaller extent.

To be thorough, an objective test is best performed.
* Ensure the vehicle is parked on a level surface.
* Measure the height at each corner of the vehicle and record the results.

====Height Measuring Technique====
Use a tape measure to measure from underneath the edge of a wheel arch to the centre of the M-B Star Logo in the wheel hub cap. This technique removes variations caused by tyre pressures.

{|
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Height Measurement Technique 1.jpg|300px]]
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Height Measurements Technique 2.jpg|300px]]
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Height Measurements 20120528.jpg|thumb|none|Sample results with no AIRmatic leaks.]]
|}

* Do not disturb the vehicle for 10 hours. (Ensure the car remains "asleep" during this time.)
* Re-measure the height at each wheel and record the results.
* Calculate the drop at each wheel and compare with the specification.

M-B [[DAS]] states the drop in vehicle height must be less than 20mm (30mm in very cold conditions) in 10 hours, ie less than 2mm per hour is allowed.

====Top Seals Leaking====
The seals at the tops of the front suspension struts develop leaks. This issue was more common with the older design in the pre '03-ish W220's compared to those from a few years later. There is available an epoxy repair kit that can be used to close the cracks. A professional repair costs around US$550 parts and labor for both sides.

Note the newer W220's post '03 and ones which have been modified with new replacement parts do not leak at the top seal which is an 'O' ring around the metal cover disc. The top of the air suspension strut on these later models is filled with a butyl mastic compound to reduce vibration on the residual valve inlet connection.

{|
|[[File:W220 Airmatic Top of Front Strut with Cracks.jpg|thumb|none|]]
|[[File:W220 Airmatic Front Strut Newer Type.jpg|thumb|none|]]
|}

====Repair Options for AIRmatic Air Suspension Strut====
If any AIRmatic Air Suspension Struts, Front axle (40) or Rear axle (41) need complete replacement, see the part numbers and replacement options.
{|
|[[File:W220_front_axle_strut.png|200px|none]]
|[[File:W220_rear_axle_strut.png|200px|none]]
|}

For the DIY Procedures see the sections below.

Replacement AIRmatic Front Axle and Rear Axle Air Springs are also available and can be installed with the original damping unit (see sections below).
{|
|[[File:W220_airmatic_front_air_spring_repair_kit.jpg|200px|none]]
|[[File:W220_airmatic_rear_air_spring_repair_kit.jpg|200px|none]]
|}

====AIRmatic Compressor Unit Failure====
AIRmatic Compressor Unit (A9/1) failure or partial failure. To test this hypothesis start the car and see if compressor is running (you should hear compressor in the front right fender running).
[[File:W220_AIRmatic_compressor_unit.jpg|thumb|none|Compressor Unit]]

If it is not running, check AIRmatic Fuse and relay (see above). A faulty relay may cause compressor to run nonstop which will cause compressor to overheat and blow out the fuse.

====Pressure Lines Leaking====
The high-pressure line from the AIRmatic Compressor Unit (A9/1) to the AIRmatic Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) develops a leak. In this case replacement line or a repair joiner can be used.

It is possible that the pressure line to the strut develops cracks or micro cracks.

In case of front struts the line from valve block to strut can be tested with spray test.

However, in case of rear struts the line goes from the valve block to rear through interior and thus is not reachable. A simple test is to run an alternative line from the valve block to the strut to check if the original line is faulty (see the section on the line repair).

If the crack is large it may suffice to push air in the line and locate damaged point by hearing hissing sound.

====Level Control Valve Unit Leaking====
The AIRmatic Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) or '''valve block''' on top of the AIRmatic Compressor Unit (A9/1) fails (very common) and fails to close some valve.

[[File:W220 AIRmatic Valve Unit Y36 6 Air Line Connection Colour Codes.JPG|thumb|none|Valve block]]

In this case the pressure will be released back to air compressor and out of the system.

For how to inspect valve block for leaks see the section "Inspecting level control valve unit (Y36/6) for leaks".

Usually, in case of valve block leak the vehicle will not be completely down, since the residual pressure holding valve at the air inlet to the struts will prevent the pressure dropping below a pressure of 4-5 bar.

[[File:W220_airmatic_low_valve_block_leaking.jpg|thumb|none|Vehicle low due to valve block leak.]]

====Central Reservoir Leaking====
To test whether central reservoir can keep pressure DAS can be used which has a pressure test for reservoir.

If test shows that reservoir cannot keep the pressure, before replacing it, check with leak detector solution to test if the line to reservoir is faulty.
{|
|

[[File:W220_central_reservoir_location.jpg]]
|}

====Level Sensor Faulty====
There are two level sensors (B22/3, B22/8) for each front wheel and one for the rear axle (B22/9).
{|
|[[File:W220_left_front_level_sensor.png|200px|none]]
|[[File:W220_rear_axle_level_sensor.png|200px|none]]
|}

If the level sensor reports wrong height the system will think that vehicle already has the required level and will not raise the vehicle.

Information reported by level sensors can be viewed using DAS.

[[File:W220_Airmatic_actual_values_vehicle_level.jpg|thumb|none|DAS reading of vehicle level.]]

If the vehicle rises, but then falls down again, the level sensors are likely not the cause.
If the vehicle is low, but there is no red error message in the instrument cluster
about the vehicle level being to low, the level sensor (or its linkage) is at fault.

===Vehicle Level Too High===
[[File:W220_Airmatic_vehicle_too_high.jpg|thumb|none|W220 with too high rear.]]

====Level Control Valve Unit Leaking====
It is possible that Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) fails to close some valves in which case the pressure will be released back to strut raising the car too high.

The vehicle will be high only while the car is off, since as soon as vehicle is started the computer will try to adjust the level to the programmed level.

====Compressor Unit Release Valve Stuck====
When Airmatic ECU decides to lower the vehicle, the corresponding valve in the valve block is opened to release the air out of the system. The air is released through the always-open port ''P'' on the valve block. The compressor unit has electrically operated overpressure/residual pressure valve built in the unit. If this valve is stuck, the air will not be released out of system even if ECU sends the electrical signal to release valve built in the compressor unit.

The problem can be as trivial as broken connector. Usually instrument cluster will show malfunction and AIRmatic control unit will report an error:
{| class="wikitable"
! Error Code
! Description
! Probable cause
|-

|C1338-001
|Fault in component A9/1y1 (AIRmatic pressure release valve)
|Broken connector (A1685452928)
|}

====Level Sensor Failure====
There are two level sensors for each front wheel and one for the rear axle.

If the level sensor reports wrong height the system will think that vehicle level is too low and will rise the vehicle above normal height.

Information reported by level sensors can be viewed using DAS.

===Protective Boot/Bellows Failure===
On older and higher mileage vehicles the lower dust cover on an AIRmatic air suspension strut starts to wear and fail. This plastic protective boot/bellows is designed to prevent dirt and contamination getting to the air spring bag/bladder. After around 100,000 miles (130,000Kms) they often show signs of cracking and tearing. Failure to replace means the end is near for the whole strut.
[[File:W220 Airmatic Lower Dust Cover Failure.jpg|thumb|none|Strut with failed protective dust boot.]]

===Upper Mount Rubber Bush Failure===
A bumping or knocking noise coming from the top of the front suspension may indicate a worn upper mount rubber bushing in the Air Spring.

When the Air Springs were manufactured the upper mount rubber bushings were installed compressed. As the mounts weaken with age they can lose their compression and cause a bumping sound.

The image below shows a typical worn upper mount rubber bushing removed from an AIRmatic air suspension strut with around 80,000 to 100,000 miles (130,000KM to 161,000Km). A worn mount will also contribute to many unwanted problems with your air suspension.

{|
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Front Strut Upper Mount Iso View.JPG|thumb|none|Upper mount rubber bushing of the front strut.]]
[[File:W220 AirmaticUpper Mount Failure.jpg|thumb|none|Worn upper mount rubber bushing.]]
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Top Bush Comparison of New and Old.JPG|thumb|none|Top bushing: new (left) vs old (right). Note the difference in height in the side view.]]
|}

Note the Upper Mount Rubber Bushing can be replaced without removing the strut for the car. Do the first steps as shown in the procedure described in section "Dismantling Front Air Spring".

It appears from inspection of the exploded diagrams for the AIRmatic front and rear struts that the upper mount rubber bush may be identical for the front and rear struts. '''NOTE''' This is yet to be confirmed.

Individual W220 Upper Mount Rubber Bushings are not readily available. Only available in lots of 5 on Ali Express [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/A-220-320-23-38-accessories-for-benz-auto-parts-accessories-for-W220-rear-air-suspension/1615393294.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.140.v1TysF&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_116_10065_117_10068_114_115_113_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10060_10061_10062_10056_10055_10054_10059_10099_10078_10079_426_10073_10102_10096_10052_425_10050_10051,searchweb201603_8&btsid=c0f1e553-d967-4534-94f2-f04187fbdf94].

== Emergency Procedure ==


In case of "AIRMATIC STOP, CAR TOO LOW!" warning on the instrument cluster,
the vehicle should be stopped immediately and measures taken.

Possible consequences of riding with leaky strut:
* The compressor will run endlessly which may cause compressor burnout.
* If 18" or larger [[Wheels tyres|wheels]] are fitted, the tire will rub the inner fender.
* There is a risk of damaging other strut on the same axis.

There is a '''temporary''' fix for front struts, which can be used to get to the '''closest''' workshop:
{|
|[[File:W220_airmatic_front_emegrency_fix_1.jpg|thumb|none|Step 1: Buy wooden blocks and cable ties]]
|[[File:W220_airmatic_front_emegrency_fix_2.jpg|thumb|none|Step 2: Jack up the car a little.]]
|}
{|
|[[File:W220_airmatic_front_emegrency_fix_3.jpg|thumb|none|Step 3: Insert wooden block and fix it with cable ties.]]
|[[File:W220_airmatic_front_emegrency_fix_4.jpg|thumb|none|Step 4: Lower the car.]]
|}

The ride will be little bumpy, but not much harsher than it is when pushing the button that stiffens the suspension.

'''WARNING:''' Travelling long distances or over excessively bumpy roads with this temporary fix using a block of wood will damage the Transverse Control Arm Top (Upper Control Arm (UCA)).

[[File:W220 Front Suspension UCA Damaged After Limp Home.JPG||600px|thumb|none|UCA on left is OK, UCA on right is badly bent due to travelling over bumpy roads with an emergency block of wood holding the car up]]

Note the much better location of the M-B limp-home buffer A2203271230 (1a) below which puts all the force over the ball joint and not the arm of the UCA.

=== Original M-B limp-home buffers ===

{|
|[[File:W220_limp-home_buffers.jpg|600px]]
|
* 1b - Rear axle limp-home buffers
* 77 - Torsion bar

* 1a - Front axle limp-home buffers
* 6 - Transverse Control Arm Top (Upper Control Arm (UCA))
|}

'''Front axle''':

Mount limp-home buffer A2203271230 (1a) onto upper transverse control arm (6).
Slowly lower vehicle and make sure that the limp-home buffer makes contact with top of
wheelhouse.

'''Ŗear axle''':

Slide limp-home buffer A2203280839 (1b) in between body fold and torsion bar (77).
The body fold must lie in the groove of the limp-home buffer.
Slowly lower vehicle and make sure that the torsion bar (77) makes contact with the
limp-home buffer (1b).

{|
|[[File:W220_airmatic_front_limp_home_buffer_A2203271230.jpg|thumb|none|Front limp-home buffer (A2203271230).]]
|[[File:W220_airmatic_rear_limp_home_buffer_A2203280839.jpg|thumb|none|Rear limp-home buffer (A2203280839).]]
|[[File:W220_airmatic_rear_limp_home_buffer_A2203280839_installed.jpg|thumb|none|Rear limp-home buffer (installed).]]
|}

==DIY tips==
* Depressurise AIRmatic components (suspension struts, valve unit, reservoir unit) before removal using STAR Diagnosis. WIS states that components or the entire system must '''NOT''' be discharged by unscrewing pressure line connectors although most DIYers have done this without problems. Just be sure to open any pressure line connections slowly to avoid a sudden loss of pressure.
* Soiled pressure line connectors must be cleaned before unscrewing.
* Mark the Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) with the colours of the air lines '''BEFORE''' removing them to avoid having to look up line and port designations.
[[File:W220 AIRmatic Level Control Valve Unit Y36 6 Marked with Air Line Connections.JPG|thumb|none|Valve block with lines removed.]]
* Seal off the exposed pressure line ports immediately with blind plugs if possible. A piece of masking tape over the holes is a short term solution.
* Seal off the pressure lines immediately to keep clean by placing the exposed ends in small plastic bags sealed with tape.
* WIS states you must only use flare nut wrenches or special tools to unscrew the pressure lines, however most DIYers have used 10mm open ended spanners successfully. Just be careful to not round the hex head.
* Use a high temperature silicon grease such as Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease to lubricate high pressure pipes, threads and O-rings. It is also a good idea to apply a [[small]] quantity of dielectric grease to any electrical plugs and sockets when re-installing them. This helps keep air and moisture away and stops corrosion. It also makes it infinitely easier to remove the connections next time.
[[File:Permatex_22058_Dielectric_Tune-Up_Grease.JPG|thumb|none|Dielectric tune-up grease.]]
* Make sure to do a thorough leak test after reassembling any high pressure air line connection as the O-ring is easily damaged. A very strong mix of household dish washing liquid detergent and water will act as a leak detector. Another good leak detector solution is Party Bubble Mix. It is best to paint the solution on rather than spray it which creates heaps of unnecessary bubbles. Inspect the wet connection as the bubbles caused by a cracked O-ring can be small and may develop very slowly. Failure to detect the damaged O-ring in the next figure cost the author two new rear struts as it was the O-ring slowly leaking and NOT one of the struts as was mistakenly diagnosed.
[[File:AIRmatic High Pressure Connector Damaged O Ring.JPG|thumb|none|Damaged O-ring.]]
* Replacing one stut at a time is possible as long as the valve block has no problems. The valve block has a valve for each strut supply pipe and if the valves remain closed then no air will leak from the other struts whilst one strut is off. But '''be warned''', if the valve block is faulty then any of the struts could loose air after releasing the supply line from a strut.
* The Allen head Stub Screws holding the bottom of the front strut use Loctite thread fastener so a little heat from a gas torch always does the trick in breaking the sealant.
* Do not fully remove the Stub Screw, just unscrew them so that about five threads are showing. It is very easy to damage the threads when reinstalling.
[[File:W220 AIRmatic Damper Stub Screws Partly Installed.JPG|thumb|none|Strut with stub screws partially unscrewed.]]
* When reinstalling a strut ensure that the plug at the electrical connection is pressed home firmly. '''TIP''': Re-read the tip re Dielectric Tune-Up Grease and electrical connections. If the plug and socket have been cleaned and lubricated you should hear an audible 'click' when the connector is pushed fully home.

==DIY Repairs==
Before attempting any DIY repairs make sure to read the tips section above.

===Testing strut for leaks===
It is common to misdiagnose leaking valve block or line to the strut with leaking strut.
Before replacing the strut, the leak should be verified by directly pumping the air to the strut and observing if the strut loses the air.

For this purpose a strut bypass valve below can be used.
Pumping the strut requires to provide up to 10 BAR pressure.
The usual Chinese 12v car tyre air compressors will fail long before that.
We have achieved good success using Alca 227000 2-Cylinder 12v compressor.

{|
|[[File:W220_Airmatic_strut_bypass_valve.jpg|thumb|none|Strut bypass valve]]
[[File:W220_airmatic_rear_strut_connect_pipe.jpg|thumb|none|Bypass valve connected]]
|[[File:W220_airmatic_rear_struct_direct_pumping.jpg|thumb|none|Direct pumping into strut]]
|}

Parts needed:
* G1/8" Schrader valve (EUR 1)
* G1/8" pneumatic fitting for 2.5*4mm pipe (EUR 1)
* Pipe 2.5*4mm 10m (EUR 6)
* MB connector A0003270369 (EUR 4)
* Compressor able to push 10 BAR at least

===Inspecting AIRmatic Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) for leaks===
Here's how to do a general leak test which will uncover most of the problems caused by faulty valve block.

On the right-hand side of the vehicle remove the wheel and part of the wheel house inner panel in front fender.


[[File:W220_wheel_splashguard.gif|300px]]
[[File:W220_airmatic_pump.gif|300px]]
# Paint or spray the pressure line connections 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, P of the level control valve with leak detecting solution.
# Inspect for an indication of leaking. Severe leaks are evident immediately. Minor leaks can develop very slowly so be patient.
# The leak can come also from the body of the valve block (valve block is glued together from two parts).
# Wait for approx. 10-15 minutes after applying the solution and reinspect. This means that minor leaks can be recognized (forming a white cap).

{|
|[[File:W220_Airmatic_valve_unit_testing_for_leaks_remove_wheel_house_inner_panel.jpg|300px]]
|[[File:W220_Airmatic_valve_unit_testing_for_leaks_spray.jpg|300px]]
|[[File:W220_Airmatic_valve_unit_testing_for_leaks_air_compressor_line.jpg|300px]]
|}

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YK0wLXm2mEc|320|left|Valve block external leak|frame}}
|}


Common failure mode of the level control valve unit (Y36/6) is when some valves fail to close
thus releasing the air out of system through the compressor-controlled port 'P' or through other valves back to struts.

To test for a leak in any valves of the valve block:
# Make sure that all valves are under pressure (struts and reservoir have pressure in them).
# Detach the connector of 'P' port and spray the port with leak detection spray. Alternatively the 'P' line can be disconnected at the air compressor end and immersed in a soapy solution (see below).
# After the test use compressed air to clean the valve.


[[File:W220_airmatic_valve_block_test_1.jpg|200px]]
[[File:W220_airmatic_valve_block_test_2.jpg|200px]]
[[File:W220_airmatic_valve_block_test_3.jpg|200px]]

===Leak Testing Using [[STAR Diagnosis System (SDS) or Diagnosis Assistance System (DAS)]]===
According to WIS, STAR Diagnosis System (SDS) offers an easy and thorough method for testing the AIRmatic. However, '''be warned''' that a very small leak caused by a cracked or damaged O-ring on one of the air line connectors may still pass the SDS AIRmatic Pneumatic Tests.

Using SDS navigate to AIRmatic Pneumatic Tests.

The following tests are available;
* A9/1 Compressor Test
* Y36/6y1 Left Front Strut Test
* Y36/6y2 Right Front Strut Test
* Y36/6y3 Left Rear Strut Test
* Y36/6y4 Right Rear Strut Test
* A9/1y1 Pressure Relief Valve Test
* Leak test between compressor and valve block (line between compressor and 'P' port in valve block).
* Leak test between valve block and suspension struts.
* Leak test between valve block and central reservoir.
** As an example this last test does the following;
*** Central reservoir charge valve (in valve block) is opened.
*** All other valves (in valve block) are closed.
*** Compressor is turned on for <60 secs.
*** Compressor is turned off.
*** Compressor keeps the line to 'P' port (in valve block) closed.
*** Central reservoir pressure is monitored for leakage for 120 secs.
*** The Central reservoir pressure must not drop by more than 0.5 bar in that time.

'''1. Leak test between compressor and valve block (line between compressor and 'P' port in valve block).'''

As an example, the following result was obtained for a leak test for a '''FAULTY''' 'P' line to Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) or Valve Block. This is similar to the test using soapy solution.
* After all valve block valves were closed the compressor produced 10.56 bar within 10 secs which is '''INSIDE''' the specification of 10 bar within 40 secs.
* After the compressor was turned off the initial compressor pressure ('P' line) = 10.56 bar.
* After the 120 elapsed time the final compressor pressure ('P' line) = 5.30 bar.
* Thus the measured leakage rate was 5.26 bar in 120 secs which is '''OUTSIDE''' the specified 0.5 bar in 120 secs.
* SDS reported that there was a leakage in the valve block or the high pressure line between the compressor and the valve block ('P' port).
A squirt of some soapy solution on the high pressure line between the compressor and the valve block proved that the line and its associated connectors were not leaking.
Thus the fault was a leak in the valve block. Once the 'P' port connector was removed from the valve block, a simple test by applying a soapy finger over the port produced obvious positive pressure of air escaping from the port, thus confirming the diagnosis of a leaky valve in the valve block.

Unfortunately the valve block can not be dismantled for inspection and cleaning thus a new Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) was required.

As a comparison, after replacing the Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) or Valve Block with a '''BRAND NEW''' OEM part, the following result was obtained for a leak test.
* After all valve block valves were closed the compressor produced 10.8431 bar within 10 secs which is withing the specification of 10 bar within 40 secs.
* After the compressor was turned off the initial compressor pressure ('P' line) = 10.8431 bar.
* After the 120 elapsed time the final compressor pressure ('P' line) = 10.8431 bar.
* Thus the measured leakage rate was 0.0 bar in 120 secs which is '''INSIDE''' the specified 0.5 bar in 120 secs.

'''2. Leak test between valve block and central reservoir.'''

As another example the following result was obtained for a leak test between valve block (Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6)) and central reservoir for a '''FAULTY''' Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) or Valve Block.
* Initial Central Reservoir pressure = 12.07 bar reached in 60 secs.
* After Compressor turned off the Central Reservoir pressure = 10.84 bar.
* After 120 secs elapsed time the Central Reservoir pressure = 10.57 bar.
* Conclusion: This real world Central Reservoir and its associated supply line after 220,000Km produced a leakage rate of 0.27 bar in 120 secs, which is well within the specified 0.5 bar in 120 secs.

As a comparison, after replacing the Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) or Valve Block with a '''BRAND NEW''' OEM part, the following result was obtained for a leak test between valve block (Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6)) and central reservoir.
* Initial Central Reservoir pressure = 7.549 bar reached in 60 secs.
* After Compressor turned off the Central Reservoir pressure = 7.41177 bar.
* After 120 secs elapsed time the Central Reservoir pressure = 7.41177 bar.
* Conclusion: This real world Central Reservoir and its associated supply line to a brand new Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) or Valve Block produced a leakage rate of 0.0 bar in 120 secs, which is well within the specified 0.5 bar in 120 secs.

===Replacing Compressor Unit ===

{|
|[[File:W220_Airmatic_Air_Filter_Location.JPG|600px]]
|
* 1 - Pressure line connection
* 2 - Intake hose with air filter
* 3 - Connector for air compressor motor
* A9/1 - AIRmatic compressor unit
* A9/1y1 - AIRmatic pressure reduction valve
|}

# If possible depressurise the AIRmatic system using STAR DAS.
# Disconnect battery.
# Remove engine compartment paneling (right front part only).
# Unscrew pressure line connection (1) from AIRmatic compressor unit (A9/1).
# Detach connector on AIRmatic pressure reduction valve (A9/1y1).
# Disconnect connector for air compressor motor (3).
# Pull intake hose with air filter (2) out of longitudinal member.
# If the AIRmatic air filter (2) is replaced, '''the arrow on the air filter (2) must point upwards'''.
# Unscrew nuts (arrows) and remove AIRmatic compressor unit (A9/1).
# Detach air compressor relay (K40/7kO). Only when installing a new air compressor. When replacing the air compressor the air compressor relay (K40/7kO) should always be exchanged as the switching contacts may be damaged.
# Install in the reverse order.

{|
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Compressor Connection Points.JPG|thumb|none|Airmatic compressor connection points.]]
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkXkhy7FD8A|320|left|Airmatic compressor replacement (by Arnott).|frame}}
|}

=== Compressor Unit Repair ===

If the compressor unit is not able to provide pressure, the most common fault is worn piston ring or cylinder head inside the air compressor.
The piston ring within the compressor unit of your air suspension system deteriorates over time.
The OEM piston ring is made from a soft plastic that wears quickly, this wear substantially reduces the output of your compressor leading to noisy,
slow rising or non-rising suspension. There are available piston rings with improved design.

Few notes to take into account:
* The replacement of piston ring will not help if the cylinder head is damaged/worn. Inspect head for damage and clean it from dust. There are also compressor repair kits that include new cylinder head.
* It is not uncommon for the torx bolts attaching piston head to the compressor to break. Make sure to order spare bolts with the kit and be prepared to drill out the old remains.
* While at it, don't forget to replace air dryer desiccant (silica gel) and dust filter.

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2QIh6WAlUU|320|left|Compressor unit pressure test using DAS (good vs bad).|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mp-qoqWuEg4|320|left|Wabco air suspension compressor piston ring repair.|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMfw2Sbjtbs|320|left|Wabco air suspension compressor piston ring replacement.|frame}}
|}

=== Valve Block Repair ===

The most common faults and diagnosis:
* Fault in electrical solenoid valve. Can be tested by supplying 12v voltage to the pins of electrical connector. In case of failure the repair is not possible (all valve solenoids are part of one big monolith).
* Due to oxidation process the valve block separates and lets the air through (see picture below). Possible to clean the oxidation layer and reattach the halves.
* Valves do not close tight, letting the air through. Oxidation layer can be cleaned with some reagent. O-rings can be changed (see below).
* Bad pressure sensor (usually misdiagnosed). Pressure sensor can be replaced separately.
* Rusty or broken electrical contact pins of pressure sensor or valve control.
{|
|[[File:W220_airmatic_valve_block_repair.jpg|thumb|none|Oxidation between block halves]]
|[[File:W220_airmatic_valve_block_metal_cleaned.jpg|thumb|none|Before and after cleaning]]
|[[File:W220_airmatic_valve_block_oxidation_in_ports.jpg|thumb|none|Oxidation in ports]]
|}
==== O-ring repair kit ====
There are sellers on eBay who sell valve block O-ring repair kit with set of 18 O-rings (~30 EUR).

{|
|[[File:W220_airmatic_valve_block_o-rings.jpg|thumb|none|Valve block O-ring repair kit]]
|[[File:W220_valve_block_orings_measure.jpg|thumb|none|O-rings measured]]
|
* 1x O-ring for the groove of the plastic piece of the block (2mm thick, 30.4mm long, ID 94mm, OD 98mm)
* 1x O-ring for the pressure sensor (2mm thick, ID 9mm, OD 13mm)
* 5x O-ring for the upper solenoid groove (1.5mm thick, ID 3.5mm, OD 6.5mm)
* 5x O-ring for the lower solenoid groove (1.5mm thick, ID 7.5mm, OD 10.5mm)
* 6x O-ring for the pressure line hoses (1.5mm thick, ID 6.5, OD 9.5mm)
|}


Instructions:
# Two mounting assemblies need to be removed to open the valve block casing. The removal of those two mounting bolts may require some PB Blaster penetrating fluid, as the blocks can have very heavy corrosion on those mounting bolts.
#: This is one of the two mounting bolt holes.
#: [[File:W220 Airmatic Valve Body Assembly Bolts.jpg|thumb|none|Valve block mounting bolt]]
# There are also two lugs on each side used to hold the Solenoid Pack / Cover in place.
#: [[File:W220 Airmatic Valve Block Cover Lugs.JPG|thumb|none|Valve block lugs]]
# Use four small electrical screwdrivers or wooden or plastic wedges to hold the plastic solenoid pack's lugs up.
#: [[File:W220 Airmatic Valve Block Cover Removal Procedure.JPG|thumb|none|Valve block Cover Removal Using Screw Drivers]]
# Douse with the whole assembly with WD40 or similar and wriggle, wriggle and wriggle until the two halves of the valve block come free.
# When reassembling the two halves of the valve block, add only the smaller o-rings to the solenoid posts, and put the larger o-rings into the recesses on the underside of the metal block and ensure they are well seated. This helps with reassembly to ensure the larger solenoid o-rings do not get damaged or misaligned when putting back together. You may find the larger o-rings getting nipped/cut if reassembled with them on the posts.
# On the underside of the metal block around the ports which the solenoid pins engage, there are some very small slots which marry up with some very small plastic moldings on the solenoid block. Ensure these slots are cleaned of any deposits. You can use a pin and a razor blade to tease out the deposits. Doing this will help ensure a nice snug fit when putting back together.
# Use a dielectric grease sparingly on the o-rings.
# Ensure all deposits are cleared off, and use an airline to blow through all the passages.
# You may need to use a vice carefully to press the solenoid block and metal block back together. Ensure the plastic cover clips well over the metal lugs on the metal block.

{|
|[[File:W220_airmatic_valve_block_separated.jpg|thumb|none|Valve block separated]]
|[[File:W220_airmatic_valve_block_removed_old_orings.jpg|thumb|none|Old O-rings removed]]
|[[File:W220_airmatic_valve_block_new_seal_to_solenoid_block.jpg|thumb|none|New seal for solenoid block halves]]
|}

=== Line Repair ===



For the location and routing of the AIRmatic air lines see above.

If you have diagnosed a leak in any of the AIRmatic pneumatic lines, the repair options are to:
*Cut out the failed section and reconnect using an in-line joiner.
*Replace the failed section of air line with a M-B repair kit (5 ft length only available).
*Replace the complete air line with an aftermarket high pressure flexible nylon pneumatic line.
*Bypass the complete air line with an aftermarket high pressure flexible nylon pneumatic line.

The air lines to the rear struts go through the interior and it may be difficult to find the leak unless the crack is large enough so that the crack can be located thanks to a loud hissing sound. Alternative line can be run from front valve block to the rear to test if the line is faulty.

{|
|[[File:W220_Airmatic_air_line_parallel_outside.jpg|thumb|none|Alternative line running to the rear.]]
|[[File:W220_Airmatic_air_line_parallel_inside.jpg|thumb|none|Alternative line connected to the rear strut.]]
|}

M-B sells the AIRmatic air line (pipe/hose/tube) in 5 ft lengths, maximum. From the factory, the air line is built using a continuous length of line with no joins. The M-B 5 ft lengths are just for repairs, so connectors will be needed.
{|
|[[File:A2203271045.jpg|thumb|none|Repair section of air line (A2203271045). Price EUR 14.]]
|[[File:AIRmatic Aftermarket Nylon Air Line.JPG|thumb|none|Aftermarket nylon air line.]]
|}
However, you can buy aftermarket 4x2.5mm nylon high pressure flexible pneumatic lines of any length which are much cheaper than OEM lines (search keyword "4mm Hose Flexible Nylon Natural / Tube Pneumatic Air Line / 5m Roll"). Various colours are available and can be used to match the OEM colour code.

M-B also sells an air line repair connector (junction/fitting) A0003270169 which can be used to re-connect an air line after cutting out the broken section. However, there are also available cheap and reliable plastic "push in" connectors which can be used to easily connect air lines without any tools.

{|
|[[File:A0003270169.jpg|thumb|none|Air line repair connector (A0003270169). Price EUR 45.]]
|[[File:A0003270169_aftermarket_equivalent.jpg|thumb|none|4mm "push in" pneumatic fitting. Alternative to A0003270169. Price EUR 3.]]
|[[File:W220_A0003270369_connector.jpg|thumb|none|Connector to connect air hose to struts, reservoir and valve block (A0003270369). Price EUR 4.]]
|}

=== Leaking Front Strut Air Spring - Repair Options ===

'''Leaking front strut air spring'''

Air spring of the front suspension strut is shown in the next figure.
The lower flared conical part of the air spring protective boot/bellows (n) is the "air spring plunger".
The plunger mates to the "support bushing/bearing" which is the conical shaped seat on the damper unit.
[[File:W220_airmatic_front_air_spring_repair_kit.jpg|thumb|none|Air spring of front strut.]]

A common issue when a Front Suspension Strut deflates completely and the car is then jacked up so that the strut is fully extended is that the Air Spring Plunger separates from the Damper Support Bearing.

'''Note:''' Air suspension struts on which the Air Spring Plunger (7) is separated from the Support Bearing can sometimes be filled with air again without problems. They do not necessarily need to be exchanged for a new suspension strut. However the strut must be filled while the protective boot/bellows (n) is aligned to the Damper Support Bearing. The method is to pressurize the suspension strut using STAR Diagnosis and at the same time press the Air Spring protective boot/bellows upwards as far as it will go to remove any crinkles. Then pull it smoothly and evenly downwards and press onto the support bearing. No air must escape from the plunger to support bearing contact surface otherwise pressure can not be built up in the Air Spring.

{|
|[[File:W220_airmatic_front_strut_repearable.jpg|thumb|none|Repairable front strut damage (leaking air between the air spring plunger (7) and the support bearing).]]
|[[File:W220_repair_front_strut_1.png|thumb|none|Picture 1: Air spring plunger (7) separated from the support bearing (conical shape at the bottom).]]
|[[File:W220_repair_front_strut_2.png|thumb|none|Picture 2: Grasp the air spring plunger (7) with the hand.]]
|[[File:W220_repair_front_strut_3.png|thumb|none|Picture 3: Pull the air spring plunger (7) downwards by hand and press onto the support bearing.]]
|}

For an AIRmatic strut to deflate completely there may be a catastrophic failure of some internal component such as the air bag/bladder (h), but it can also mean that the residual pressure holding valve (k) is leaking so that the strut deflates over time. This residual pressure holding valve (k) normally blocks off the pressure chamber in the air spring from the supply line and closes at or below a residual pressure of 4-5 bar. For a leaking residual pressure holding valve (k) to cause a full deflation, the air supply line or the relevant valve in the Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) would also need to be leaking.

A leaking Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) on its own should not cause the strut to deflate completely as the residual pressure holding valve (k) should be fully closed below 4-5 bar.

''' Leak test '''

Before replacing a supposed leaky AIRmatic strut, always carry out a leak test on the head bearing using soapy water. Proceed as follows:
* Fill the air spring (using the DAS or other means), and in the process pull the air spring plunger (7) downwards firmly by hand so that the air does not escape between the air spring plunger and the Damper support bearing (picture 2 and 3).
* Once the suspension strut is filled, carry out the leak test on the head bearing and repair if necessary. A repair kit is available for this purpose.
* After using the repair kit proceed as described above when filling the air suspension strut (picture 2 and 3) ie pull the air spring plunger (7) firmly downwards by hand so that the air does not escape between the air spring plunger and the support bearing.

''' Repair options '''

If the head bearing is not leaking and the plunger is fully seated on the support bearing then the options are to;
* Replace the complete AIRmatic strut.
* Replace just the Air Spring of the AIRmatic Suspension Strut. (Note: This is the cheaper option but requires dismantling the failed Suspension Strut. It is a good option if the damper unit is in good condition. Refurbished Air Springs are available from Suspension Workshops.

=== Remove/install front suspension strut ===
If a replacement front axle spring strut (40) has been procured, it is quite an easy task to swap them over.


{|
|[[File:W220_replace_front_suspension_strut.jpg|600px]]
|
* 17 - Spring control arm
* 40 - Suspension strut
* 40a - Pressure line connection
* 40b - Nuts (3)
* 40c - Bolts (2 pcs.)
* X62/6 - Right front axle multiple circuit junction connector, major assembly compartment
* X62/7 - Left front axle multiple circuit junction connector, major assembly compartment
* Y51 - Left front axle damping valve unit
* Y52 Right front axle damping valve unit
* a - Residual pressure valve
|}

# Position wheels straight ahead
# ''Jack up the rear or just one side of the car as required. Support the car on stands.''
# ''Remove [[fuses|f32]]/40A (AIRmatic compressor fuse) from the relay box in engine compartment right. This is not strictly necessary, as the compressor should not engage if engine is not running.''
# Empty suspension strut (40) affected using [[DAS]]. ''(Note: it is not strictly necessary to do this step - just be careful when opening the pressure line to release any residual air slowly.)''
# Unscrew pressure line connection (40a). ''Remove the pressure airline from the head of the strut using 10mm open ended spanner.'' Residual pressure in suspension strut up to 3.5 bar. Plug the pressure line for the duration of the repair operations. Installation: Check pressure line O-ring and replace if necessary.
# Unscrew nuts (40b) on front end. ''Remove the three upper mounting nuts (13mm) at the strut head.'' Installation: Fit nuts (40b) then refill suspension strut in fully-assembled vehicle before torquing to specification ''(lightly tighten the three strut upper mounting nuts - they will be torqued fully once the car is ready to drive'').
# Disconnect left front axle multiple circuit junction connector, major assembly compartment (X62/7) right front axle multiple circuit junction connector, major assembly compartment (X62/6). Connectors of damping valve unit and rpm sensor. Press against spring (arrow) to remove. ''(Note: WIS says to press down on the spring retaining clip to release the multi-electrical connectors.) If necessary the multi-electrical plugs X62/6 or X62/7 can be released by praising the spring retaining clip upwards. Separate the front strut multi electrical connector into two connectors thus releasing the front strut so that it can be removed.''
{|
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Front Strut Multi Electrical Connectors.JPG|thumb|none|Multi-electrical connectors and their spring retaining clip.]]
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Front Strut Multi Electrical Connectors Release Method.JPG|thumb|none|Multi-electrical connector release method.]]
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Front Strut Multi Electrical Connector Separated.JPG|thumb|none|Multi electrical connector before and after separating.]]
|}
<ol start="8">
<li>Remove bolts (40c) from spring strut (40). Installation: After installing, the bolts (40c) must close at least flush with the suspension strut (40) or be seated slightly lower in it.
''Note: The AIRmatic front strut is attached to the ball joint of the lower suspension arm with two stub screws (5mm hex Allen key screws) on the bottom of the spring strut.
{|
|[[File:W220_airmatic_front_strut_ball_joint_stub_unscrew.jpg|300px]]
|[[File:W220_airmatic_front_strut_ball_joint.jpg|300px]]
|[[File:W220_airmatic_front_strut_ball_joint_stub_screws.jpg|300px]]
|}
* ''If required, apply heat to the bottom allen stub screws. Several people have reported difficult screw removal resulting in several broken hex wrenches, frustration or even stripped set screws that had to be drilled out. A very effective method to remove the screws is to use heat from a blow torch. A micro torch provides a nice small sharp flame that is easily controlled as to not cause any collateral damage.'' 
{|
|[[File:Welding_micro_torch.jpg|300px]] [[File:W220_airmatic_front_strut_ball_joint_stub_screw_torch.jpg|300px]]
|[[File:W220_airmatic_front_strut_ball_joint_stub_unscrew_hex_wrench.jpg|300px]]
|}
* ''Loosen the two bottom allen stub screws (5mm hex Allen key). Do not fully remove the stub screws, just unscrew them so that about five threads are showing.''
{|
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Damper Stub Screws Partly Installed.JPG|300px]]
|}
* ''Loctite can be added to the exposed threads before installation. Note: It is very easy to strip the thread when starting the stub screws in dirty holes on an old damper unit. Not completely removing the stub screws during disassembly eliminates this problem. If a stub screw mangles the start of a thread, remove the Air Strut to a work bench and thoroughly clean the threads on '''both''' holes. They will be full of old Loctite sealer. Then screw a stub screw into the 'good' side and keep screwing it all the way through until it comes out the far side, and in the process reshaping the mangled thread. Do this a couple of times and the stub screw should then start properly. It is far easier to start the stub screws on a work bench than when in the car.''
</ol>
<ol start="9">
<li>Slacken suspension strut (40) on ball joint of spring control arm (17) using a suitable lever. Check cup seal of ball joint in spring control arm (17) for damage.
''Undo the upper control arm ball joint nut (17mm) until it reaches the end of its thread and leave in place to protect the thread.
Use a ball joint separator tool to remove the upper control arm ball joint.''
[[File:Ball Joint Separater Tool.JPG|thumb|none|Ball joint separator tool.]]
</ol>
<ol start="10">
<li> Remove spring strut (40) downwards towards the side. Installation: When installing tighten the upper nuts (40b) first.
</ol>
<ol start="11">
<li>Fill suspension struts (40) in question using [[DAS]]. Pressurize to 5 bar. During filling the wheels must not contact the ground, as when filling in the deflected condition the air spring bellows in the suspension strut (40) is destroyed. ''In other words: '''Never completely lower the vehicle if the air shocks are not pressurized.''' Lower the jack partly until the car is at normal vehicle height (lower vehicle until distance axle center to lower edge of fender is about 400mm). Start the engine and wait for at least two minutes for everything to stabilize.''
</ol>
<ol start="12">
<li>Check AIRmatic for leaks.
</ol>
<ol start="13">
<li> Install in the reverse order
</ol>

Torque specifications:
* Nut, front suspension strut to front end: 20 Nm
* Bolt, front suspension strut to spring control arm: 20 Nm
* Air suspension pressure line to front suspension strut: 5 Nm

====Tutorials====
Excellent replacement tutorials for the front struts are available here:
{|

|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtube.com/watch?v=5guGcaMabxw&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE|320|left|Front Air shock replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJ8Q3DuKH8M|320|left|Front air shock replacement (by Arnott)|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hiYy3fgpl0k|320|left|Front air shock replacement (by BILSTEIN)|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdSWq1RDuo0|320|left|Front air shock replacement (by David Prokity)|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxsLN-yWCyo|320|left|Front air shock replacement using jacks|frame}}
|}

===Remove/install rear suspension strut ===
''Replacing rear strut is more time consuming than replacing front strut.

{|
|[[File:W220_airmatic_remove_install_rear_suspension_strut.jpg|400px]]
|
* 1 - Screw connection
* 2 - Screw connection
* 41 - Rear suspension strut
* 41a - Pressure line connection
* 41a - Nuts (3)
* 72 - Spring control arm
* 72c - Spring control arm covering
* 72d - Bolts (4 pcs.)
* Y53 - Left rear axle damping valve unit
* Y53x1 - Damping valve unit connector
* Y54 - Right rear axle damping valve unit
* Y54x1 - Damping valve unit connector
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_airmatic_remove_install_rear_suspension_strut_2.jpg|400px]]
|
* 1 - Screw connection
* 2 - Screw connection
* 3 - Screw connection
* 4 - Thrust arm
* 72 - Spring control arm
|}

# Depressurize suspension strut concerned (41) using [[DAS]]. ''(Note: it is not strictly necessary to do this step - just be careful when opening the pressure line to release any residual air slowly.)''
# ''Remove [[fuses|f32]]/40A (AIRmatic compressor fuse) from the relay box in engine compartment right. This is not strictly necessary, as the compressor should not engage if engine is not running.''
# Jack up the rear or just one side of the car as required. Support the car on stands.
# Remove rear wheel(s).
# Remove cover (arrow) in parcel shelf. ''To avoid damage to the trim on the C-pillar it is best to remove it as it '''certainly will be damaged (bruised/compressed and possibly dirtied)''' if not removed. To remove C-pillar unscrew T30 bolt under SRS tab and pull it off.''
#: [[File:W220 Damage to C-Pillar Trim Removing AIRmatic Rear Strut with Annotation.JPG|thumb|none|Damaged C-pillar]]
#: [[File:W220_right_C-pillar_removed.jpg|thumb|none|C-pillar removed]]
# Unscrew pressure line connection (41a) ''using 10mm open ended spanner''. '''''Be warned''': pressure in the line between the valve block and the suspension strut can be very high so if pressure has not been released using [[DAS]], '''slowly''' unscrew the valve allowing the residual pressure to escape. (The residual pressure valve on the top of the strut prevents the release of the last bit of pressure. Residual pressure in suspension strut is up to 3.5 bar. This means that the strut will still exert considerable force on the suspension components.)''
# Plug the pressure line for the duration of the repair operations ''(just to make sure that dirt does not get in)''.
# Unscrew nuts (41b) ''using the smallest 13mm socket and driver available''. Installation: ''Loosely'' fit nuts (41b) then refill suspension strut in fully-assembled vehicle before torquing to specification ''(the vehicle must be in the ready to drive mode when torquing these three nuts)''.
# Pull off grommet and disconnect electrical connector of damping valve unit (Y53x1/ Y54x1)
# Remove bolts ''(or plastic rivets)'' (72d) on spring control arm cover (72c). ''Remove spring control arm cover (72c).''
# ''Detach brake caliper from the wheel. Disconnect brake wear sensor and remove brake wear sensor bracket (right side only). The removal of brake caliper is not strictly necessary if vehicle is lifted high and hence there is enough space to pull out the strut downwards.''
# ''Remove stabilizer bar link bottom nut and detach the bottom part of the stabilizer bar.''
#: [[File:W220 Stabiliser Bar Link Removing Bottom Nut.jpg|thumb|none|Removal of stabilizer bar link bottom]]
# Remove bolted connection (2) of suspension strut (41) on spring control arm (72) ''using 21mm socket from both sides''. ''Note: Any residual pressure in the strut will prevent the bolt from being removed.'' Installation: Fit nuts (41b) and tighten after filling the suspension strut on a vehicle which is ready to drive ''(or ensure that rear axle is horizontal by jacking under the rear brake disc with the wheel removed and measuring distance between lower edge of fender and center of axle (about 360mm) before torquing connection rear strut to spring control arm (2) of suspension)''.
#: [[File:W220 Removing rear strut to spring control arm connection.jpg|thumb|none|Removing strut to spring control arm connection.]]
# Remove bolted connection (3) of spring control arm (72) on rear axle carrier. ''This step is not strictly necessary as even without loosening this bolt the string control arm should easily swing out of the way for the strut removal.
#: [[File:W220 Spring Control Arm to Axle Carrier Inner bolted connection.jpg|thumb|none|Loosening the inner bolted connection of spring control arm to axle carrier]]
# Remove bolted connection (1) of spring control arm (72) on rear axle carrier ''using 21mm socket from both sides''. ''Any residual pressure in the strut will prevent the bolt from being easily removed. Jack the spring control arm slightly to remove the pressure on the spring control arm to wheel carrier bolted connection. If there is no residual pressure in the strut the bolt can be released just by wriggling the wheel carrier.'' ''Installation: Ensure rear axle is horizontal before torquing connection outer spring control arm to wheel carrier.''
#: [[File:W220 Undoing spring control arm to wheel carrier bolted connection.jpg|thumb|none|Undoing spring control arm to wheel carrier bolted connection]]
# ''Lower the jack just enough to remove the pressure on the spring control arm caused by the strut. Remove the bolt for the rear strut to spring control arm connection. Lower the jack which will allow the spring control arm (72) to swing out of the way.''
# Pull down track control arm (72) and remove strut assembly (41) by lowering it and pulling it out to the side.
# Install in the reverse order
# Fill suspension struts affected using [[DAS]]. Pressurize to 5 bar. '''''Warning:''''' During recharging the wheels should never be in contact with the floor; refilling with the suspension compressed leads to destruction of the air suspension bellows in the strut (41).
# ''Double check that the strut top mounting nuts (41b) were torqued correctly after the vehicle was ready to drive and fully supported on the new struts.''
# ''Check for leaks.''

Torque specifications:
* Suspension struts: Nut, rear suspension strut to body: 20 Nm
* Suspension struts: Air suspension pressure line to rear air spring: 5 Nm
* Suspension struts: Nut, rear strut to spring control arm: 110 Nm
* Spring control arm: Self-locking nut, to rear subframe: 50 Nm + 90 degrees
* Spring control arm: Self-locking nut, to rear axle carrier: 70 Nm
* Stabilizer bar link bottom nut: 40 Nm

====Tutorials====
Excellent replacement tutorials for the rear struts are available here:
{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFmwLCCEAkI|320|left|Rear air shock replacement (by Arnott)|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1f8bDYEalW4|320|left|Rear air shock replacement (by BILSTEIN)|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0WVj3Brfe8|320|left|Rear air shock replacement (by Masood)|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgdEH0uTDsM|320|left|Rear air shock replacement using jacks|frame}}
|}

===Replacing the Air Spring in an AIRmatic Strut===
As already described, a very common reason for a leaking strut is damage in the strut's rubber air bag/bladder (h).
It is possible to purchase on eBay a refurbished front and rear air spring which is the top part of an air suspension strut for around EUR 120 and mount it to the original damper unit (the lower part of an air suspension strut). This requires the strut to be removed from the car and the air spring to be separated from the damper unit by partly dismantling the air spring. '''Note:''' Replacing only the strut's rubber air bag/bladder (h) of the air suspension strut is not suitable for a DIY project as it requires an hydraulic crimping tool.

==== Dismantling Front Air Spring====


<ol>
<li> Remove the complete front axle AIRmatic spring strut (40) from the vehicle.
<li> Remove the epoxy/mastic using a hammer and a screw driver. ('''TIP''': If you are doing this with the strut still in the car, avoid getting pieces of epoxy/mastic in the engine.)
{|
|[[File:AIRmatic Removing Top Seal.JPG|thumb|none|Removing top seal of front strut.]]
|[[File:AIRmatic Top After Removing Mastic.JPG|thumb|none|Top seal removed.]]
|}
<li> Using a special tool (see below) unscrew the residual pressure holding valve (k).
{|
|[[File:AIRmatic Residual Pressure Holding Valve Removed.JPG|thumb|none|Tool to unscrew the residual pressure valve.]]
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Residual Pressure Holding Valve 01.JPG|thumb|none|Residual pressure holding valve (removed).]]
|}
<li> If required close the opening of the residual pressure holding valve (k) with a short bolt M8, so that no dirt can penetrate into the air suspension strut.
<li> Using a special tool (see below) fit the tool to the Strut. Tighten the central nut to the plate from the inside and this will wind down the bolt pushing the Air Spring top metal disc inwards slightly releasing the snap ring.
{|
|[[File:W220 strut top seal tool 02.jpg|thumb|none|Strut top seal tool.]]
|[[File:W220 strut top seal tool 03.jpg|thumb|none|Strut top seal tool.]]
|}
<li> Remove the snap ring. ('''TIP''': Use a small screwdriver to help remove the circlip lock snap ring but make sure it does not cause any scratches and burrs, otherwise the sealing of the new lock ring may be compromised. Remove any sharp edges or burrs if required.) (Note: a new circlip lock snap ring is provided in the top seal kit, see below.)
<li> Remove the tool.
<li> Remove the top seal metal disc cover with its 'O' ring. (Note: Run a small screwdriver around the edge of the disc and then keep manipulating the disc until it starts to come free. Use a small screw driver to lever the disc out. A very strong magnet can help.) (Note: a new top seal metal disc cover and a new 'O' ring are provided in the top seal kit, see below. A new top seal metal disc cover and a new 'O' ring are often provided with a new/refurbished air spring.)
{|
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Front Strut Snap Ring Removed.JPG|thumb|none|Snap ring.]]
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Front Strut Metal Disc Removed.JPG|thumb|none|Metal disc cover.]]
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Front Strut Top Seal Cover Outside View.JPG|thumb|none|Outside view of metal disc (A2203280621).]]
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Front Strut Top Seal Cover Inside View.JPG|thumb|none|Inside view of metal disc (A2203280621).]]
|}
<li> Inspect the inside of the top of the Front Strut for any sharp edges or burrs and remove if required.
<li> Drill a 4mm hole and if necessary insert a screw or similar device part way into the nylon plug which can then be pulled out. (Note: a new nylon plug is available with part number TBD.)
{|
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Front Strut After Removing Metal Disc.JPG|thumb|none|Strut after removing metal disc.]]
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Front Strut Plastic Plug Removed.JPG|thumb|none|Plastic plug removed.]]
|[[File:W220 Front Spring Strut Nylon Cover.jpg|thumb|none|Nylon cover.]]
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Front Strut After Removing Plastic Plug.JPG|thumb|none|Strut after removing plastic nylon plug.]]
|}
<li> Use an air impact driver to undo the lock nut on the top of the damper piston rod (e). (Note: unfortunately it is essential to use an impact wrench as the piston rod in the damper unit can not be restrained from turning. The impact wrench shocks the nut undone.)
<li> Remove the complete air spring from the damper unit.
[[File:W220 AIRmatic Front Strut Air Spring Separated from Damper Unit.JPG|thumb|none|Strut spring separated from damper unit.]]
<li> From the '''inside''' of the Air Spring use a long piece of rod or tubing to press out the upper mount rubber bush.
{|
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Front Strut Upper Mount Iso View.JPG|thumb|none|]]
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Front Strut Upper Mount Top View.JPG|thumb|none|]]
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Front Strut Upper Mount Side View.JPG|thumb|none|]]
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Front Strut Upper Mount Back View.JPG|thumb|none|]]
|}
{|
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic View of Front Strut Air Spring with Upper Mount Removed.JPG|thumb|none|Outside view of the strut with bush removed.]]
|[[File:W220 Front Spring Strut Top Plate Inside View.jpg|thumb|none|Inside view of the strut with bush removed.]]
|}

*The yellow arrow points to the hole going through the upper mount rubber bush for the damper piston rod (e).
*The blue arrow points to the inside of the Air Spring for the rubber air bellows (h).
*The red circle shows the threaded brass air inlet to the Air Spring.
</ol>
==== Reassembly Front Air Suspension Strut (40)====
# Fasten the air bag/bladder (h) to the strut top using the 1st crimp ring.
#:[[File:W220 Airmatic Front Spring Strut 01.jpg|300px]]
#:The next Figures show the steel support ring for the lower strut tube (a), which provides support for the 2nd or lower crimp ring.
#:[[File:W220 Airmatic Front Spring Strut 02.jpg|300px]]
# Install the strut tube (a) into the air bag/bladder and secure with the 2nd crimp ring.
#:The next Figure shows the rubber air bag/bladder which is mounted on the outside of the strut tube (a) and is held in place by metal crimp rings.
#:[[File:W220 Airmatic Front Spring Strut 03.jpg|300px]]
#:Notes:
#:* The bottom end or plunger of the lower strut tube (a) is tapered which is for sealing to the support bearing on the damper unit.
#:* Note: the Airmatic strut can leak air from the bottom of the lower section if not seated against the rubber of the damper unit correctly.
# Check the Seal between the damper and the air spring.
#:The next Figure shows the bottom air spring to damper seal open and fully seated.
#:[[File:W220 Airmatic Front Spring Strut 04.jpg|300px]]
# Install top alloy dust cover.
#:The next Figure shows the top dust seal alloy cover which is crimped to the strut top.
#:[[File:W220 Airmatic Front Spring Strut 05.jpg|300px]]
# Install the protective boot/bellows to the top dust seal alloy cover.
# Thoroughly clean the damper unit before it is fitted into the air spring.
#:The next Figure shows a close-up of the strut damper with the bump stop buffer (i) and bump stop cover. The damper is fitted after the air spring has been assembled. It slides through the strut top and then has the upper mount rubber bush and nut fitted followed by the nylon cover and then the top metal disc cover and lock ring. Note the large conical rubber support bearing which provides the air spring to damper seal.
#:[[File:W220 Airmatic Front Spring Strut 07.jpg|300px]]
# Prepare the strut top plate to take the Damper Unit.
#:The next three figures show;
#:* (left image) the strut top plate with the hole for the damper,
#:* (center image) the strut top plate with the upper mount rubber bush in place waiting for the nyloc nut, (Note: an impact wrench is used to tighten the nut (with Loctite applied) to the damper piston rod.)
#:* (right image) the strut top with the nylon cover placed over the nut.
#:[[File:W220 Airmatic Front Spring Strut 08.jpg|500px]]
# The next two figures show the metal disc cover with the 'O' ring installed ('''TIP''': use silicon grease to ensure it is leak free) and the lock ring ready to be fitted using the strut top seal tool.
#:[[File:W220 Airmatic Front Spring Strut 09.jpg|300px]]
# Install the residual pressure holding valve (k) using the commercial tool or DIY modified spanner.
# Support the strut vertically and fill the top of the strut with a black butyl mastic to reduce vibration damage to the air inlet valve.
#:'''TIP''': If a pour-able butyl mastic can not be sourced, Sika manufacture a range of butyl mastic sealers which can be extruded in thin layers (5mm thick). Use a spatula to smooth the layer evenly and then leave it to set. Repeat the layering process until the cavity is filled. The result is not as neat as the OEM but it does the job. If required the extruded layers technique can be done with the Air Strut installed in the car as the compound is quite viscous and will not run.
[[File:W220 AIRmatic Repaired Front Strut Filled with Butyl Mastic.JPG|300px]]

==== Tools Required for Replacing Air Spring in Front Air Suspension Strut (40)====
<ul>
<li> AIRmatic residual pressure holding valve tool. Used to remove and install the brass residual pressure holding valves at each of the air inlets to the front air suspension struts. DIY tool can be made by modifying either a ½” or 3/8" spanner by grinding it down to fit the residual pressure holding valve.
{|
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Residual Pressure Holding Valve Commercial Removal Tool.JPG|thumb|none|Commercial 1/4" drive tool.]]
|[[File:W220 strut top seal tool 04.jpg|300px|thumb|none|1/2" spanner.]]
[[File:AIRmatic DIY Residual Pressure Holding Valve Removal Tool.JPG|thumb|none|DIY residual pressure tool.]]
|[[File:W220 AIRmatic Residual Pressure Holding Valve Dimensions.JPG|thumb|none|Critical dimensions of the residual pressure holding valve.]]
|}
</ul>

<ul>
<li> Front strut top seal remover tool.
[[File:W220_airmatic_front_strut_top_seal_tool.jpg|thumb|none|Commercial strut top seal tool.]]
</ul>

<ul>
<li> DIY home-made strut top seal tool can be made from a 150mm x 150mm piece of 6mm (1/4") steel plate.
{|
|[[File:DIY AIRmatic Front Top Seal Tool Dimensions.JPG|thumb|none|mark-up dimensions for the DIY front strut top seal remover tool.]]
|[[File:W220 strut top seal tool 01.jpg|thumb|none|Parts for DIY strut top seal tool.]]
|}
#Accurately mark up the steel plate as per the figure above which shows the mark-up dimensions for the DIY AIRmatic front strut top seal remover tool.
##Draw the two diagonals to establish the centre of the plate.
##Mark with a centre pop.
##Set a divider to 61.5mm radius.
##Draw a circle with the divider around the centre pop producing the pitch circle diameter of 123mm.
##Centre pop the first hole on one of the diagonals.
##Use the divider still set to a radius of 61.5mm and mark six arcs around the circumference of the PCD. This divides the PCD into six equal chords. (Alternatively set the divider to 106.5mm and scribe across the PCD in two places.)
##Centre pop the required intersections for the other two 8mm holes.
##Visually check that the centre pop marks match the pitch circle diameter (pcd) of the strut top plate mounting bolts.
##Drill the three off 8mm holes.
##Drill one 10mm hole in the center.
##Obtain three off 120mm long 8mm bolts for the three 8mm holes.
##Use three 8mm joiner nuts to attach the 8mm bolts to the strut top. (Alternatively four off 8mm nuts can be welded together to make one off 'long' nut.)
##Obtain one off 150mm long 10mm bolt for the center 10mm hole.
##Thread a nut right to the top of the 10mm bolt and add a flat washer with a little bit of grease.
</ul>

* Impact driver (Note: is absolutely essential for removing the nut at the top of the damper unit.)

<ul>
<li> Top seal repair kit. Includes: steel cap, brass valve and spring clip. Part number A2203202538 (~EUR 125).
[[File:AIRmatic Top Seal Repair Kit A2203202538.JPG|thumb|none|Top seal repair kit (A2203202538).]]
</ul>

====Tutorials====
Excellent replacement tutorials for the front and rear struts are available here:
{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zACt4F7TvYY|320|left|W220 front strut separation.|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VzGNQowXo0|320|left|W220 rear strut assembly.|frame}}
|}

===Remove/install front axle level sensors===


{|
|[[File:W220_Remove_install_front_axle_level_sensors.jpg|400px]]
|
* 6 - Upper track control arm
* 86 - Connecting rod
* 86a - Retaining plate
* 86c - Nut
* 86d - Bolts (2 ea.)
* B22/8 - Left front level sensor
* B22/9 - Right front level sensor
* e - Hole
* f - Hole for level sensor connecting rod
|}

Remove/Install:
# Replace self-locking nuts and bolts
# Remove front wheels
# Disconnect connectors at front left and right level sensors (B22/8, B22/9)
# Unscrew nut (86c) on connecting rod (86) from front left and right level sensors (B22/8, B22/9)
# Unscrew nut (86b) on connecting rod (86) from upper wishbone (6) and remove connecting rod (86). Installation:Attach connecting rod (86) to the outermost hole (f) on the upper wishbone (6).
# Unscrew bolts (86d) on retaining plate (86a) and remove front left and right level sensors (B22/8, B22/9)
# Install in the reverse order
# After replacing the level sensors, calibrate vehicle level with Star Diagnosis (level calibration)

Torque specification:
* Nut, level sensor connecting rod to upper wishbone: 10 Nm
* Nut, connecting rod to level sensor: 5 Nm
* Bolt/nut of level sensor to retaining plate: 4 Nm

===Remove/install rear axle level sensor===


{|
|[[File:W220_Remove_install_rear_axle_level_sensor.png|400px]]
|
* 81 - Torsion bar link
* 85 - Control rod
* 85a - Retaining plate
* 85b - Nuts (3)
* 85c - Bolts (2 pcs.)
* 85D - Nut
* 85E - Nut
* B22/3 - Rear axle level sensor
|}

Remove/Install:
# Replace self-locking nuts and bolts
# Disconnect plug from rear axle level sensor (B22/3)
# Unscrew nut (85e) of control rod (85) from stabilizer bar intermediate lever (81)
# Unscrew nut (85d) of control rod (85) at level sensor (B22/3) and remove control rod (85). Do not separate control rod (85) or change the adjustment.
# Remove bolts (85c) of retaining plate (85a) at level sensor (B22/3) and remove level sensor (B22/3)
# Install in the reverse order
# Calibrate vehicle level using Star Diagnosis after replacing the level sensor

Torque specification:
* Nut, level sensor link rod to torsion bar intermediate lever: 10 Nm
* Nut, control rod to level sensor: 5 Nm
* Bolt, level sensor to retaining plate: 4 Nm
* Nut, retaining plate to frame floor: 8 Nm

===Airmatic Adjusting Levels Using [[STAR Diagnosis System (SDS) or Diagnosis Assistance System (DAS)]]===
See Section [[Airmatic Adjusting Levels Using DAS]]

Headlights

2022-10-10T23:49:12Z

Masood:

==Introduction - Headlight Systems==
===HID Xenon Systems===
HID stands for High-Intensity Discharge. Xenon is the type of gas inside the bulb. Xenon bulbs can produce a brighter, whiter light than a halogen car, and tend to have a longer lifespan. The bulb works in a different way to a halogen. Instead of a filament heating up and glowing, xenon headlights use electrodes to discharge the gas inside the bulb. This produces the light you see on the road. In order for xenon bulbs to work they require electronic ballasts, and ignitors to generate the high voltages required to discharge the gas.

HID xenon headlight systems come in two different types, xenon and bi-xenon.

===HID Xenon Headlight Systems===
HID '''xenon''' headlight systems use two separate bulbs for the high and low beam illumination. The main high beam system uses xenon bulbs, electronic ballasts, and ignitors. A separate conventional halogen bulb is also fitted for low beam.
===HID Bi-xenon Headlight Systems===
HID '''bi-xenon''' headlight systems use one bulb for both high and low beam illumination. To achieve low and high beam illumination with a single HID bi-xenon bulb, it is used in conjunction with a lens projector which has a solenoid/motor that is attached to a cutoff plate or shield. When the 'high beams' are activated a signal is sent to the solenoid and the motor will lower the cutoff plate/shield allowing more light to shine above the shield; hence high beams.
{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iP4WXHmRpjs|400|center|Bi-xenon Projectors|frame}}
<br clear=all>
A pair of separate conventional halogen globes are also used to provide instant illumination and a support and backup to the bi-xenon system.

===Halogen Systems===
Halogen headlight systems use separate low beam and high beam bulbs in different locations. Sometimes dual filament bulbs are used to produce both high and low beams in one bulb. Halogen bulbs are cheap to manufacture, plus they’re very simple to replace. Inside the bulb is a filament made out of tungsten and halogen gas. The bulb lights up when electricity reaches the filament, heating up the tungsten which begins to glow. Most halogen headlamps produce a colour temperature between approximately 3200K and 5000K. The higher the Kelvin rating, the cooler and bluer the light will be.

Be careful when replacing a halogen bulb. It is popular to replace a standard halogen with an aftermarket bulb in order to achieve a white/blue tint. After market globes usually achieve this by applying a blue coating to the bulb, which the light then shines through. However, this can compromise the light output of the bulb as the blue coating can obscure the amount of light that can penetrate it. Some after market halogens are now turning to a clever xenon and halogen gas mix, which helps to produce a whiter light than the halogen gas can on its own. Be sure to use the same wattage as the original.

===LED Systems===
Modern LED bulbs are proving to be very popular as they can produce an extremely white light. They are much more efficient, due to their long lifetime and the low wattage they require to work. LED bulbs were never fitted as original equipment for W220 high or low beams. Fitting them to W220s as after market equipment poses problems due to the sophisticated bulb monitoring system built into the W220. Due to their low current draw they will be detected as blown globes and may even flash instead of producing constant light. They also need to be cooled from the back of the bulb and may require a redesign of the lens assembly.

==Description==
W220's were built with two completely different main headlight systems, namely;
* High Intensity Discharge (HID) systems using bi-xenon bulbs with electronic ballasts, ignitors and motorised lens projectors for both high beam and low beam, and
* Halogen systems using conventional bulbs.

{|
|[[File:W220_headlamps_facelift.jpg|thumb|none|Headlights on [[facelift]] vehicles.]]
|[[File:W220_headlamps_prefacelift.jpg|thumb|none|Headlights on pre-[[facelift]] vehicles.]]
|}

[[File:W220_EPC_lightning_unit.png|thumb|none|Parts related to headlamp in [[EPC]].]]

==Locations ==
=== HID Headlight Locations ===
{|
|[[File:W220_lights_front.png]]
|
* 1. LED turn signal lamp in external rearview mirror
* 2. Bixenon low/high beam - D2S 35W
* 3. Turn signal lamp - PY21W
* 4. Fog lamp - H7-55W
* 5. Parking and standing lamp W5W
* 6. Side marker lamp W5W
* 7. High beam - H7-55W
|}

=== Halogen Headlight Locations ===
{|
|[[File:W220_lights_front.png]]
|
* 1. LED turn signal lamp in external rearview mirror
* 2. Low beam - H7-55W
* 3. Turn signal lamp - PY21W
* 4. Fog lamp - H7-55W
* 5. Parking and standing lamp W5W
* 6. Side marker lamp W5W
* 7. High beam - H7-55W
|}

== Operating Lights ==

=== Exterior lamp switch ===
If you drive in countries where vehicles drive on the other side of the road than the country in which the vehicle is registered, you must have the headlamps modified for symmetrical low beams. Relevant information can be obtained at your authorized Mercedes-Benz Center.

The exterior lamp switch is located on the dashboard to the left of the steering wheel.

[[File:W220_exterior_lamp_switch_arrows.jpg]]

* 0 - Off
* AUTO - Automatic headlamp mode
* Parking lamps (also side marker lamps, tail lamps, license plate lamps, instrument panel lamps). Canada only: When engine is running, the low beam is also switched on.
* Parking lamps plus low beam or high beam headlamps (combination switch pushed forward).
* Standing lamps, right (turn left one stop)
* Standing lamps, left (turn left two stops)

If you remove the SmartKey and open the driver's door while the parking
lamps or low beam headlamps are switched on, then a warning sounds and
a bulb appears in the multifunction display with the message "SWITCH OFF LIGHTS!".

With the daytime running lamp mode activated and the engine running, the low beam headlamps cannot be switched off manually.
To activate the daytime running lamp mode, see "Setting daytime running lamp mode (USA only)".

'''Manual headlamp mode'''

The low beam headlamps and parking lamps can be switched on and off with the exterior lamp switch.

'''Automatic headlamp mode'''

The parking lamps, low beam headlamps and license plate lamps switch on and off
automatically depending on the brightness of the ambient light.
Turn the exterior lamp switch to AUTO.

Warning: If the exterior lamp switch is set to AUTO, the headlamps may switch off unexpectedly when the system senses bright ambient light, for example light from oncoming traffic. The headlamps will not be automatically switched on under foggy conditions.

To minimize risk to you and to others, activate headlamps by turning exterior lamp switch when driving or when traffic and/or ambient lighting conditions require you to do so.
In low ambient lighting conditions, only switch from position AUTO with the vehicle at a standstill. Switching from AUTO will briefly switch off the headlamps. Doing so while driving in low ambient lighting conditions may result in an accident.

With the daytime running lamp mode activated, the low beam headlamps will not switch off automatically.

'''Daytime running lamp mode'''

Turn exterior lamp switch to position 0 or AUTO.
When the engine is running, the low beam headlamps are automatically switched on.
In low ambient light conditions, the parking lamps will also switch on.

Canada only: When you shift from a driving position to position '''N''' or '''P''', the low beam switches off (with a three-minute delay).
For nighttime driving you should turn the exterior lamp switch to permit activation of the high beam headlamps.

USA only: The high beam headlamps can also be activated when driving with the daytime running lamp mode activated and exterior lamp switch in position 0. To activate the daytime running lamp mode, see "Setting daytime running lamp mode (USA only)".

'''Switching on headlamps using exterior lamp switch'''

[[File:W220_exterior_lamp_switch.jpg]]
* (1) Off
* (2) Low beam headlamps on

With the SmartKey removed and the driver’s door open, a warning sounds if the vehicle’s exterior lamps are not switched off.

===Turn signals===
'''Combination switch'''

The combination switch is located on the left of the steering column.

[[File:W220_combination_switch_turn_signals_high_beam.jpg]]
* (1) Turn signals, right
* (2) Turn signals, left

To signal minor directional changes, move combination switch to point of resistance only and release. The turn signal flashes three times.

===Switching on high beams===
The combination switch is located on the left side of the steering column.

[[File:W220_combination_switch_beams.jpg]]

* (1) High beam
* (2) High beam flasher

To switch on high beams turn exterior lamp switch. Push the combination switch in direction (1).
The high beam indicator on the instrument cluster comes on.

For high beam flasher pull the combination switch briefly in direction (2).

===Switching on fog lamps===
Fog lamps will operate with the parking lamps and/or the low beam headlamps on. Fog lamps should only be used in
conjunction with low beam headlamps. Consult your State or Province Motor Vehicle Regulations regarding permissible lamp operation.

The front fog lamps and rear fog lamp cannot be switched on manually with exterior lamp switch in position AUTO.
To activate the fog lamps, turn exterior lamp switch and pull the exterior lamp switch to first or second stop.

To switch on front fog lamps make sure the low beam headlamps are switched on.
Pull out exterior lamp switch to first stop. The green indicator lamp in the lamp switch comes on.

To switch on rear fog lamp make sure the low beam headlamps are switched on. Pull out exterior lamp switch to second stop.
The yellow indicator lamp in the lamp switch comes on.

===Hazard warning flasher===
The hazard warning flasher can be activated with the starter switched on or off.
It is activated automatically when an airbag is deployed.
The switch is located on the center console.

[[File:W220_hazard_warning_flasher_switch.jpg]]

With the hazard warning flasher activated and the combination switch set for either left or right turn,
only the respective left or right turn signals will operate when the SmartKey in the starter switch is in position '''1''' or '''2'''.

== Replacing bulbs for front lamps ==

{|
|[[File:W220_headlamp_cover.jpg|300px]]
|
* 1. Headlamp cover for fog lamp
* 2. Headlamp cover for high beam halogen headlamp bulb, parking and standing lamp
* 3. Headlamp cover for Bi-Xenon (low and high beam) or halogen (low beam) headlamp bulb
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_headlamp_bulb_sockets.jpg|300px]]
|
* 4. Bulb socket for fog lamp
* 5. Bulb socket for parking and standing lamp
* 6. Electrical connector for high beam
* 7. Electrical connector for low beam headlamp bulb
* 8. Bulb socket for turn signal lamp
|}

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/PZ_ylAnX_8I|320|left|Replacing Headlight bulbs video - from Masood|frame}}

|}

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0CqsoawTgLg|320|left|Replacing turn signal, parking, H7 high beam (pre-facelift)|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyjQragPFO8|320|left|Replacing xenon bulb.|frame}}
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_headlight_H7_highbeam_socket.jpg|thumb|none|H7 high beam socket (bi-xenon headlamp).]]
|[[File:W220_bixenon_headlamp_foglamp_highbeam_sockets.jpg|thumb|none|H7 high beam socket (bi-xenon headlamp).]]
|}

== Bi-Xenon headlamp ==


{|
|[[File:W220_bixenon_headlamp_location_function.jpg]]
|
* 1 - Xenon headlamp
* B - Cover
* E1 - Left front headlamp unit
* E1l1 - Left high beam solenoid
* E1n1 - Xenon headlamp control module
* E1n2 - Xenon headlamp ignition module
* E2 - Right front headlamp unit
* E2l1 - Right high beam solenoid
* E2n1 - Xenon headlamp control module
* E2n2 - Xenon headlamp ignition module
|}

The headlamps in W220 [[facelift]] differ from the previous xenon
headlamps on account of their entirely new lighting technology
development, which the xenon light uses for low and high beam lights.
The new lighting technology, known as Bi-Xenon, is located in the
outer headlamps.

When the low beam lamps are switched on the xenon headlamp
control module (E1n1, E2n1) activates the xenon headlamp control
module and ignition module (E1n2, E2n2) via the control voltage
within a few milliseconds.
A high-voltage surge from the ignition device ignites the xenon
lamps, and in doing so an electric arc is formed between the
electrodes. If an electric arc of sufficient stability is detected the
control circuit switches the control modules (E1n1, E2n1) over to
power-limiting mode.

With the bi-xenon headlamps, the light generated in the previous
manner in a gas discharge lamp (D2S lamp) travels directly
through the optical system without being reflected.

A voltage converter generates the required voltage for the reliable
function of the xenon headlamp.

For technical reasons the xenon lamp has a timed startup
characteristic. After switch on, 50 % of the luminosity is reached
within 1 to 2 seconds and full luminosity is achieved after another
approx. 30 seconds.

The entire luminous flux is made available for the high-beam lights.
When switching over to low-beam operation a screen is moved into
position between the gas-discharge lamp and the lens, which
covers up the luminous flux directed into the distance and thus
helps to prevent oncoming traffic from being dazzled.

The shield (B) is controlled electro-mechanically by the solenoids in
the right and left high beams (E1l1, E2l1).

=== Xenon headlamp control module (ballast) ===
{|
|[[File:W220_bixenon_control_module_1307329087_A2208203785.jpg|thumb|none|Module (1307329087/A2208203785) mounted.]]
|[[File:W220_bixenon_control_module_1307329087_A2208203785_opened.jpg|thumb|none|Module (1307329087/A2208203785) opened.]]
|[[File:W220_bixenon_headlamp_ballast_connector.jpg|thumb|none|Mount point for xenon control module.]]
|}


The xenon headlamp control module (E1n1, E2n1) activates the xenon headlamp control module
and ignition module (E1n2, E2n2) via the control voltage and regulates the voltage supply
to the xenon headlamps.

The same control module is used on both sides.
The MB part number is not identified on the part, however,
the control module is ECU and MB part number can be obtained
by establishing connection to the headlamp control module using [[DAS]].

Other ballasts (e.g., 1307329072/A2038202526 from C-class) will also light up the bulb,
but may report headlamp range adjustment errors (tested in vehicle without [[ABC]]).

{| class="wikitable"
! Part No.
! Notes
|-
|A2208203785
|[614/618] From 30/09/2002, replaced by A2208207085
|-
|A2208207085
|[614/618] From 30/09/2002
|-
|A2208203885
|[614/618 +487] From 30/09/2002, replaced by A2208207185
|-
|A2208207185
|[614/618 +487] From 30/09/2002
|-
|A2308201926
|[614/494 +-487] From 30/09/2002, replaced by A2308208426
|-
|A2308208426
|[614/494 +-487] From 30/09/2002
|}

=== Xenon headlamp ignition unit ===

The xenon headlamp ignition device (A2208204985 - EUR 100), (E1n2, E2n2) ignites the xenon lamps by means of a high-voltage surge.

{|
|[[File:W220_1307329076_A2208204985_front.jpg|thumb|none|Ignition unit (front).]]
|[[File:W220_1307329076_A2208204985_back.jpg|thumb|none|Ignition unit (back).]]
|}

=== Xenon bulb ===

The part number for xenon bulb is N910139000001.
It is D2S 35W gas discharge lamp.

While the bulbs made know manufacturers are very expensive, the HID bulbs sold on ebay have shown to be reliable.

[[File:Chinese_HID_bulb_D2S_6000K.jpg|thumb|none|Chinese D2S 35W bulbs on ebay (EUR 5 pair).]]

=== Headlamp range control (HRC) ===


Electric headlamp range adjustment is required by law for vehicles
with xenon headlamps to prevent dazzling oncoming traffic. The
headlamp range adjustment automatically keeps the inclination
angle of the low beams within the legally defined limit regardless
of how the vehicle is loaded.

The headlamp range adjustment control module utilizes the signals
from the level sensors on the front and rear axles for control and
adjustment of the low beams. The pneumatic suspension control
module processes the signals from the level sensors and transfers
these to the headlamp range adjustment control module via the data bus (CAN).
The headlamp range adjustment control module compares the
signals with the headlamp adjustment and, if necessary actuates
the headlamp range adjustment motors in the headlamps to correct the angle of inclination.

In addition to the signals from the level sensors the headlamp
range adjustment control module also processes a wheel speed
signal proportional to the vehicle speed transferred on the data bus
from the ASR/ESP control module.
Evaluation of this wheel speed signal indicates to the headlamp
range adjustment control module whether the vehicle is driving at
constant speed, accelerating or decelerating.
At constant vehicle speed the headlamp range adjustment
operates in the "static mode" with minimum headlamp motor
adjustment speed.
During acceleration or deceleration the "dynamic mode" with high
adjustment speed is actuated.

====Headlamp range adjustment control module====


{|
|[[File:W220_headlamp_range_control_module.jpg]]
|
* 1 - Installation plate
* 2 - Connector
* 3 - Screws
* N71 - Headlamp range adjustment control module
|}


The control module evaluates the signals from the pneumatic suspension control
modules and ABS/ASP control modules as well as the headlamp range adjustment motors.
It actuates the headlamp range adjustment motors depending on the vehicle load,
vehicle status and position of the headlamps.

====Headlamp range adjustment motors====

The headlamp range adjustment motors in the left and right headlamps adjust the
inclination angle of the reflectors depending on the actuation by the control module.
The position of the reflectors is indicated to the control module by potentiometers in the motors.


{|
|[[File:W220_headlamp_range_adjustment_components.jpg]]
|
* E1 - Left front headlamp unit
* E1m1 - Left headlamp range adjustment motor
* E2 - Right front headlamp unit
* E2m1 - Right headlamp range adjustment motor
* N71 - Headlamp range adjustment control module
|}

Both headlamps (left and right) contain headlamp range adjustment motor part number A1408201908.

{|
|[[File:A1408201908_side.jpg|thumb|none|A1408201908 side.]]
|[[File:A1408201908_connector.jpg|thumb|none|A1408201908 connector socket.]]
|[[File:A1408201908_back.jpg|thumb|none|A1408201908 back.]]
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_left_headlamp_range_adjustment_motor_via_socket_cover.jpg|thumb|none|Range adjustment motor observable with high beam halogen headlamp cover removed.]]
|[[File:W220_non-ABC_bixenon_headlamp_range_adjustment.jpg|thumb|none|Headlamp range adjustment (vehicle without [[ABC]])]]
|}

{| class="wikitable"
! Error Code
! Generated By
! Description
|-
|B1480
|HRA - Headlamp rangeadjustment
|Component M36 (Left headlamp range adjustment motor) has Short circuit or open circuit
|-
|B1481
|HRA - Headlamp rangeadjustment
|Component M37 (Right headlamp range adjustment motor) has Short circuit or open circuit.
|}

For the last two error codes a dead motor is rarely a cause. Disconnected plug is the most common cause.

=== Washer ===
Washer (~EUR 40) for bi-xenon headlamps is A2208260791 (left) and A2208260891 (right).
Washer from the pre-[[facelift]] headlamps will not fit.
After years of use the rubber becomes fragile and breaks easily.
From the practical perspective there does not seem to be any function of this washer,
because the water is prevented from entering the headlamp with the sealing used to attach the lens to the headlamp.

{|
|[[File:W220_bixenon_headlamp_washer_left_A2208260791.jpg|thumb|none|Left washer (A2208260791).]]
|[[File:W220_bixenon_headlamp_washer_right_A2208260891.jpg|thumb|none|Right washer (A2208260891).]]
|}

=== Wiring ===
[[File:W220_left_bixenon_headlamp_wire_plugs.jpg|thumb|none|Plugs of Bi-Xenon left headlamp.]]

=== Part numbers ===

{| class="wikitable"
|+ U.S. vehicles with and without [[ABC]]
! Part No.
! Notes
|-
|A2208202861
|[614+494-487] right, right hand traffic. From 30/09/2002, replaced by A2208205261
|-
|A2208203661
|[614+494+487] right, right hand traffic. From 30/09/2002, replaced by A2208205261
|-
|A2208205261
|[614+494+-487] right, right hand traffic. From 30/09/2002
|-
|A2208202761
|[614+494-487] left, right hand traffic. From 30/09/2002, replaced by A2208205161
|-
|A2208203561
|[614+494+487] left, right hand traffic. From 30/09/2002, replaced by A2208205161
|-
|A2208205161
|[614+494+-487] left, right hand traffic. From 30/09/2002
|-

{| class="wikitable"
|+ Vehicles without [[ABC]]
! Part No.
! Notes
|-
|A2208202361
|[614/612] left, right hand traffic. From 30/09/2002, replaced by A2208204361
|-
|A2208204361
|[614/612] left, right hand traffic. From 30/09/2002
|-
|A2208202461
|[614] right, right hand traffic. From 30/09/2002, replaced by A2208204461
|-
|A2208204461
|[614] right, right hand traffic. From 30/09/2002
|-

{| class="wikitable"
|+ Vehicles with [[ABC]]
! Part No.
! Notes
|-
|A2208203161
|[614+487] left, right hand traffic. From 30/09/2002, replaced by A2208204761
|-
|A2208204761
|[614+487] left, right hand traffic. From 30/09/2002
|-
|A2208203261
|[614+487] right, right hand traffic. From 30/09/2002, replaced by A2208204861
|-
|A2208204861
|[614+487] right, right hand traffic. From 30/09/2002
|}

=== Dissecting Bi-Xenon headlamp ===

The pictures below show dissecting process of left Bi-Xenon headlamp (A2208202361 - right-hand traffic without [[ABC]]).

# Remove the metal clamps holding lens to the headlamp.
# Using the heat gun soften the sealing mastic where the lens attaches to the headlamp.
# Detach the lens slowly cutting the sealing mastic to not smear the reflectors.
# At this point the lens and reflectors can be cleaned. Use cotton wool and spirit. Touch the reflectors lightly otherwise the reflecting layer will come off.
{|
|[[File:W220_headlamp_remove_lens_using_heatgun.jpg|thumb|none|Headlamp lens removal.]]
|[[File:W220_headlamp_lens_removed.jpg|thumb|none|Headlamp with lens removed.]]
|}
# Remove the reflecting and plastic ring from the xenon lamp. It is clipped on - use force. Use gloves to not damage the reflecting ring.
# The overlay reflector now can be removed.
# The transparent turn signal part of the overlay reflector is a separate part, however, it is hard to remove it without breaking the clips.
{|
|[[File:W220_headlamp_xenon_lamp_rings_removed.jpg|thumb|none|Xenon lamp plastic rings removed.]]
|[[File:W220_headlamp_overlay_reflector_removed.jpg|thumb|none|Overlay reflector removed.]]
|[[File:W220_headlamp_overlay_reflector.jpg|thumb|none|Overlay reflector.]]
|}
# The turn signal reflector can now be removed.
# Remove the turn signal bulb and unscrew the screw holding the turn signal reflector.
{|
|[[File:W220_headlamp_turn_signal_reflector_front.jpg|thumb|none|Turn signal reflector (front).]]
|[[File:W220_headlamp_turn_signal_reflector_back.jpg|thumb|none|Turn signal reflector (back).]]
|}
# To remove the fog and high beam reflector, unscrew the screw holding the reflector in the bottom right corner of the reflector.
# Unscrew the reflector mount from the top left corner.
# Slide the reflector out of the bottom left mount.
{|
|[[File:W220_headlamp_fog_highbeam_reflector_removal.jpg|thumb|none|Fog lamp and high beam reflector removal.]]
|[[File:W220_headlamp_fog_highbeam_reflector_front.jpg|thumb|none|Fog lamp and high beam reflector (front).]]
|[[File:W220_headlamp_fog_highbeam_reflector_back.jpg|thumb|none|Fog lamp and high beam reflector (back).]]
|}

=== Bi-Xenon headlamp for vehicles with ABC ===

The headlamp for [[ABC]] vehicles does not use the third connector to control
range adjustment motor. The motor is controlled by the
headlamp control module as can be seen in the pictures below.
{|
|[[File:W220_non-ABC_bixenon_headlamp_range_adjustment.jpg|thumb|none|Headlamp range adjustment (vehicle without [[ABC]])]]
|[[File:W220_bixenon_ABC_headlamp_without_reflectors_zoom.jpg|thumb|none|Headlamp internal wiring (vehicle with [[ABC]]).]]
|}

== Xenon to Bi-Xenon Upgrade ==


Parts needed:
* 2 bi-xenon headlamps (various part numbers, but mine were A2208202761 and A2208202861)
* 2 5mm x .8 x 30mm bolts
* 2 5mm washers
* 2 high beam plugs (5-pin) A2205454628
* 2 wires for high beam plugs A0005403905
* 2 16 gauge U-blade wire ends for high beam wires
* 2 auto level plugs (4-pin) A0001530842
* 8 wires for autolevel plugs A0005403805
* 8 18 gauge splice couplers

Note: do the upgrade with car and lights turned off.

# Look at your new headlamps: They have 3 integrated male connector ports; a 6-pin, a 5-pin, and a 4-pin;
## The 6 pin fits your existing 6 pin female plugs on your old lights without modification. If you only connect this part of your old harness to your new lights your low beams will work, but nothing else will. You will get turn signal malfunction messages.
## The 5-pin (high beam) connector port only uses 3 pins. Pop open the plastic bulb door above this port. You will see a thick brown wire going from the bulb down to the far (driver's) side end of the port. This is true on both lights, so keep in mind the wiring on each light is not a mirror-image of the other.
## The 4-pin is your auto level. You can drive without this and the lights will work fine, but some places may outlaw xenons without auto level mechanisms.
# Assemble your wires into your 5-pin plugs: Push the female end of one A0005403905 wire into the back of the high beam (5-pin) A2205454628 plug (until it clicks into place) so that when the plug is inserted into the 5-pin port on the light, the new wire connects to the brown wire you observed in step 1. The other 2 wires in this port will not be used, so your 5-pin plug will have only one wire in it. Note the plugs are keyed so they can only be inserted one way into each light. Repeat for the other plug for the other light, noting that the wiring in the lights and therefore in your plugs cannot be mirror images of each other. Cut the male plug ends off, strip the insulation and crimp on the 16 gauge U-blade wire ends.
# Remove your old headlamps (see appropriate section below).
# Assemble your wires into your 4-pin auto level plugs: Insert the female ends of the A0005403805 wires into the back of the new (4-pin) A0001530842 plugs until they click into place. Cut off the male ends. The new plugs are labelled 1-4 next to each wire. Cut the wires to the old plug and splice them to the new wires, matching blue to 4, black to 3, red to 2, and green to 1.
# Install your new headlamps: Use the longer 5mm x .8 x 30mm bolts with washers to secure the lights.
# Insert your plugs into the lights: Attach the U-blades to a nearby chassis ground.
# If you didn't have old xenons, you will need to activate xenons using [[DAS]].

== H7 Upgrade ==

=== LED Upgrade ===
Due to the sophisticated bulb monitoring system built into the W220,
even the LED H7-format bulbs reported as "error free" will not work in W220
unless additional load resistors are installed.

=== PHIPILS Diamondvision ===
PHILIPS offers Diamond Vision 5000K white light H7 bulbs (~30 EUR/pair).

[[File:H7_Philips_diamondvision.jpg|200px]]

{|
|[[File:W220_highbeam_H7_Philips_diamondvision.jpg|thumb|none|High beam: Diamond Vision vs standard H7]]
|[[File:W220_foglight_H7_Philips_diamondvision.jpg|thumb|none|Fog lamp: Diamond Vision vs standard H7]]
|}

== Parking and Standing Lamp Upgrade ==
=== LED Upgrade ===
Due to the sophisticated bulb monitoring system built into the W220,
even the bulbs reported as "error free" may blink or burn-out quickly if
installed as replacement in W5W bulb socket.
There has been partial success (some of the bulbs have broken apart probably from the heat) using the LED bulb
shown in the picture below.

{|
|[[File:W220_headlamp_parking_lamp_LED_socket_unplugged.jpg|thumb|none|Parking lamp [[LED upgrade|LED]] installation (facelift).]]
|[[File:W220_headlamp_parking_lamp_LED_upgraded.jpg|thumb|none|Parking lamp [[LED upgrade|LED]] installed.]]
|}

A good close to "LED looking" effect can be achieved using OSRAM COOL BLUE INTENSE conventional W5W bulbs.
[[File:OSRAM_COOL_BLUE_INTENSE_W5W.jpg|thumb|none|OSRAM COOL BLUE INTENSE W5W bulb set]]

== Resources ==
{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrDW0dgs5HY|320|left|Headlamp removal without removing the bumper.|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vvzl7XZiPMg|320|left|Headlamp lens restoration.|frame}}
|}

Fuel pump filter

2022-10-10T23:45:08Z

Masood:

Fuel pump and filter is mounted on the left frame floor in front of the rear axle.

{|
|[[File:W220_fuel_filter_location.jpg|300px|]]
|
* M3 - Fuel pump
* 55/1 - Fuel filter with integrated fuel pressure regulator approx. 3.8 bars
|}

==Fuel Pump==



{|
|[[File:W220_fuel_pump_ilustration.jpg|thumb|none|]]
|
Illustration shows screw spindle pump
* M3 - Fuel pump
|}

The task of the pump is to supply an adequate quantity of fuel to the
fuel system at the required pressure in all driving states.

On model W220 helical spindle pump is mounted at frame floor.



{|
|[[File:W220_fuel_pump_function.jpg]]
|
Illustration shows screw spindle pump
* 1 - Rotating spindle
* 2 - Drive spindle
* 3 - Check valve
* 4 - Pressure relief valve
* 5 - Electric motor
* 6 - Ground connection
* 7 - Voltage supply
* a - Fuel from the fuel tank
* b - Fuel to the fuel filter
|}

The fuel pump (M3) pumps more fuel than the engine requires in total in order
to maintain the pressure in the fuel system in all operating states.
As a result of this circulation, relatively cool fuel is available at all times
for injection (avoids the formation of vapor bubbles).
A pressure relief valve (4) is integrated in the fuel pump in order to
limit the pressure.

The check valve (3) in the fuel pump decouples the fuel system from the fuel tank
by preventing fuel from flowing back through the fuel pump to the fuel tank.
The fuel pump is actuated by the engine control unit through the fuel pump relay.

===Parts===

====To date: 30/06/2001 (with screw connections):====
* OE - A0004707894 (EUR 370)

[[File:W220_fuel_pump_A0004707894.jpg|thumb|none|Fuel pump A0004707894]]

====From date: 30/06/2001 (with pluggable connections):====
* OE - A0014701294 (EUR 370)
* OEM - PIEBURG 7.28126.51.0 (EUR 155)
* BOSCH 0986580354 (EUR 173)
* TOPRAN 401632 (EUR 95)
* STARKE 162-029 (EUR 30)

[[File:W220_fuel_pump_A0014701294.jpg|thumb|none|Fuel pump A0014701294]]

The manufacturer of the original fuel pump is PIEBURG. Special workshops are able to open them and replace any faulty parts. The inner design of cheaper pumps is different, which leads to lower quality and noisy operation, therefore, in case of fuel pump failure, if possible, the original PIEBURG pump should be repaired.

The part number for pluggable electrical connector on the vehicle side - A1685452728.
The male part of the pluggable electrical connector on the pump side is TRUCKTEC/29.3086. The male connector can be used to convert [[facelift|pre-facelift]] fuel pump with screw connections to a pluggable connection (see the pictures below).
{|
|[[File:W220_fuel_pump_connector_A1685452728.jpg|thumb|none|Fuel pump female connector (A1685452728)]]
|[[File:TRUCKTEC_29.3086.jpg|thumb|none|Fuel pump male connector (TRUCKTEC/29.3086)]]
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_fuel_pump_connector_converter.jpg|thumb|none|Connector (positive - left, negative - right)]]
|[[File:W220_fuel_pump_with_connector_converter.jpg|thumb|none|Fuel pump with connector]]
|[[File:W220_fuel_pump_with_connector_converter_installed.jpg|thumb|none|Fuel pump with connector installed]]
|}

==Filter==


The task of the fuel filter is to filter impurities out of the fuel, maintaining constant fuel pressure in wide limits irrespective of the fuel pump delivery.

{|
|[[File:W220_fuel_filter_design2.png|300px|]]
|
* 55/1 - Fuel filter with integrated fuel pressure regulator
* CAN - Pressurization line
* PUMP - Feed from fuel pump
* TANK - Return flow to fuel tank
* MOT - To engine
|}




{|
|[[File:W220_fuel_filter_design.jpg|400px]]
|
* 55/1 - Fuel filter with integrated fuel pressure regulator
* 55/3 - Valve
* 55/5 - Diaphragm (membrane)
* 55/6 - Compression (push) spring
* 55/9 - Filter element insert
* 55/40 - Diaphragm pressure regulator

* A - Feed from fuel pump
* b - Diaphragm pressure regulator vent line
* B - Fuel return flow to fuel tank
* C - Fuel pressure connection to engine
|}

The fuel filter consists of a sheet metal casing with an integrated filter
element (55/9). The fuel flows through this from the outside to the
inside. As a result any impurities are trapped.

The diaphragm pressure regulator (55/40) controls the fuel pressure
of approx. 3.8 bar (operating pessure) via the fuel return flow
quantity to the fuel tank.

If the set fuel pressure is exceeded, the diaphragm (55/5) is pushed
against the push spring (55/6) and the valve (55/3) attached to the
diaphragm opens the passage for the fuel return to the fuel tank (B).
If the set pressure is below the limit, the valve is closed again by
means of the push spring.

{|
|[[File:Fuel_pressure_as_a_function_of_the_fuel_pump_delivery.png|thumb|none|Fuel pressure as a function of the fuel pump delivery]]
|
* A - Fuel pressure in bar
* B - Fuel pump delivery in liters per hour
|}

A greatly varying fuel pump delivery (e.g. 20 or 140 l/h) does not have any great effect on the fuel pressure.

===Parts===

* OE A0024773001 OE (EUR 100)
* OEM Knecht KL82 (EUR 38)
* OEM BOSCH 0450915003 (EUR 40)
* MANN-FILTER WK 720 (EUR 45)

{|
|[[File:W220_fuel_filter_BOSCH_0450915003.jpg|thumb|none|BOSCH 0450915003]]
|[[File:W220_fuel_filter_MANN-FILTER_WK_720.jpg|thumb|none|MANN-FILTER WK 720]]
|}

== Fuel pump package ==

[[File:W220_fuel_pump_package.png|500px]]

Identifying the components in this diagram with same nomenclature as above:
{| class="wikitable"
! Part
! Part no.
! Image
! Description
|-
|60
|A2024766526 (from date 2001/04/07)

Gates 10mm (inner) x 16mm (outer) x v20cm (length)
|[[File:W220_fuel_hose_A2024766526.jpg|300px]]
|Hose between filter and fuel tank fuel return line. 15.3X3MM; 200MM
|-
|70
|A0019976990

Hose clamp ABA Mini 15mm
|[[File:W220_fuel_hose_clamp_A0019976990.jpg|300px]]
|Clamp for hose between filter and tank (x2 - both ends). 9-13MM
|-
|25
|A0069971890

Hose clamp ABA Mini 13mm
|[[File:W220_fuel_clamp_A0069971890.jpg|300px]]
|Hose clamp 13-14.5MM:
* Clamp for hose between pump and filter (x2 - both ends)
* Clamp for hose between filter and engine fuel delivery line (x2 - both ends)
|-
|10
|A2304768726

Gates 8mm (inner) x 14mm (outer) x 11.5cm (length)
|[[File:W220_fuel_hose_A2304768726.jpg|300px]]
|Hose between pump and filter. 7.3X3MM; 115MM (order by the meter)
|-
|17
|A2304768726

Gates 8mm (inner) x 14mm (outer) x 30cm (length)
|[[File:W220_fuel_hose_A2304768726.jpg|300px]]
|Hose between filter and engine fuel delivery line. 7.3X3MM (order by the meter)
|-
|40
|A2024711341 (15 EUR)
|[[File:W220_fuel_filter_pump_bracket_A2024711341.jpg|300px]]
|Backet. Fuel pump package
|-
|50
|N000000002053

M5x35mm
|[[File:W220_bolt_at_fuel_pump_bracket_N000000002053.jpg|300px]]
|Bolt. At fuel pump bracket.
|-
|75
|A2104780340
|[[File:W220_fuel_pump_bracket_A2104780340.jpg|300px]]
|Backet. Fuel pump package
|}

== Fuel lines (gasoline vehicles) ==
[[File:W220_fuel_lines_gasoline_vehicles.png|500px]]

Identifying the components in this diagram with same nomenclature as above:
{| class="wikitable"
! Part
! Part no.
! Image
! Description
|-
|5
|A2204762675 (replaced by A2204762875) (EUR 77)
|[[File:W220_hose_fuel_tank_to_fuel_pump_A2204762875.jpg|300px]]
|Fuel hose from tank to fuel pump
|-
|10
|A0069971990
|[[File:W220_fuel_hose_clamp_A0069971990.jpg|300px]]
|Clamp. Fuel hose to fuel pump 21.5-22.5 MM
|-
|20
|A2104765527
|
|Hose. Breather line to fuel filter
|}

== Testing fuel pressure ==

Remove Schrader valve cap from the fuel rail fuel pressure port and connect your fuel pressure tester. Be extremely careful during this test procedure as if fuel falls on hot engine parts it may cause a fire. Never carry this test if the engine is hot.

The fuel pressure should build up as soon as you turn on the ignition before you even try to crank the engine and the pressure should not drop after turning on the ignition. The pressure reading should be around 3.8 bars. If the pressure is not maintained then the cause can be either a faulty fuel filter or a faulty fuel pump.

[[File:W220_Engine_112.972_fuel_pressure.jpg|thumb|none|Fuel pressure reading 3.8 bars]]

== Fuel pump and filter replacement ==

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/aawfkE6-DEc|320|center|Fuel filter replacement video (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

[[File:W220_fuel_pump_replacement.jpg|thumb|none|Fuel pump with hose clamps]]

Front doors

2022-08-21T17:30:28Z

Masood:

==Remove/install door control module==

Shown on model 220:

This video shows in detail how to replace the Door Control Module which is the central brains behind all door functions including most power window functions.
In the case of the specific issue in this video, as soon as the engine was turned on, the driver window would automatically roll down. Replacing the Door Control Module with a used part from eBay for
around $40 as of Aug 2022, fixed the issue. Another solution would be to reprogram the module but that requires special tools and access not afforded to most DIYers.
{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/Bu6hFyjh6NQ|320|left|Replace S600 S50 S430 S55AMG Door Control Module (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

==Remove/install door lining on front door==


Shown on model 220 up to VIN 316716 (pre-facelift):
{|
|[[File:W220_Remove_install_door_lining_on_front_door.png]]
|
* 1 - Trim strip
* 2 - Covering
* 3 - Door handle cover
* 4 - Door lining
* 5 - Cover on switch group
* 6 - Screw
* 7 - Lock rosette
* 8 - Inner door panel
* 9 - Fastening clips
* 10 - Screw
* 11 - Screw
* 12 - Cover
* 13 - Screw
|}

Shown on model 220 up to VIN 316716 (pre-[[facelift]]):
{|
|[[File:W220_Remove_install_door_lining_on_front_door_up_to_VIN_316716.jpg]]
|
* 1 - Trim strip
* 2 - Covering
* 3 - Door handle cover
* 15 - Bolts
* 17 - Cap
|}

Shown on model 220 As of VIN 316717 ([[facelift]]):
{|
|[[File:W220_Remove_install_door_lining_on_front_door_as_of_VIN_316717.jpg]]
|
* 1 - Trim strip
* 2 - Covering
* 15 - Bolts
* 16 - Door opener cover
|}

Shown on model 220 up to VIN 316716 (pre-[[facelift]]):
{|
|[[File:W220_Remove_install_door_lining_on_front_door_up_to_VIN_316716_DCM.jpg]]
|
* 2 - Covering
* N69/1 - Left front door control unit
* N69/2 - Right front door control unit
|}

# Press trim strip (1) out of covering (2)
# Up to VIN 316716 (pre-[[facelift]]):
## Remove door handle cover (3) from door handle
## Unclip cap (17)
# As of VIN 316717 ([[facelift]]):
## Remove door opener cover (16)
# Remove screws (15)
# Press covering (2) off of door lining (2)
# Disconnect electrical connector from left front door control unit (N69/1) and right front door control unit (N69/2). For this purpose, remove covering (2).
# Unclip cover on switch group (5) with switch group from door lining (4). For this purpose, pull cover on switch group (5) downward at bottom edge until cover on switch group (5) can be removed.
# Unscrew bolt (6) from round cover plate (7). For this purpose, remove round cover plate (7).
# Unscrew bolts (10, 11) from inner door handle
# Remove screw (13). For this purpose, remove cover (12).
# Press door lining (4) off of inner door panel (8). Move mounting wedge (14) directly to fastening clips (9) and ensure that the retainer tabs on the fastening clip (9) do not tear out of the door lining (4).
# Lift door lining (4) at top on sealing rail out of retaining clips and simultaneously pull away from inner door panel (8). Installation: Remove fastening clips remaining on inner door panel (8) and install.
# Unhook Bowden cable from inside door opener
# Disconnect electrical connectors from door lining (4) and lay down door lining (4)
# Check door foil and fastening clips (9). Installation: Replace damaged door foil and fastening clips (9).
# Install in the reverse order

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UepxCXwGitY|320|left|Front door panel removal (facelift).|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTM-0lcFpMk|320|left|Front door panel removal (pre-facelift).|frame}}
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_front_left_door_panelling_removed.jpg|thumb|none|Front left door with panelling removed.]]
|[[File:W220_front_left_door_panelling_removed_keyless-go_antenna.jpg|thumb|none|[[KEYLESS-GO]] antenna.]]
|[[File:W220_front_left_door_wires.jpg|thumb|none|Front left door wiring.]]
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_front_left_door_panelling_inside.jpg|thumb|none|Front left door panelling inside.]]
|[[File:W220_front_left_door_panelling_inside_latch_and_handle_illumination_module.jpg|thumb|none|Latch guide and handle illumination module.]]
|}

==Removing and installing front door lock==


{|
|[[File:W220_Removing_and_installing_front_door_lock_1.png]]
|
* 1 - Bowden cable
* 2 - Locking bar
* 5 - CL cable
* 6 - Door lock
* 9 - Window lift guide rail
* 10 - Bolt
* 11 - Bolt
* Arrow - blind rivet
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_Removing_and_installing_front_door_lock_2.png]]
|
* 1 - Bowden cable
* 2 - Locking bar
* 3 - Unlocking bar
* 4 - Fuse
* 6 - Door lock
* 8 - Bracket
* 11 - Screws
|}

Removing:
# Remove door liner on front door
# [[windows|Remove crank operated window]] on front door
# Unhook Bowden cable (1) for inside door opener onto door lock (6) and remove. Unclip holder (8) on lock.
# Open retainer (4) for unlocking bar (3).
# Press IRCL line (5) off door lock IRCL element
# Drill out blind rivets (arrows). Use 4.8 mm dia. drill for drilling out, taking care not to damage the inner door panel. Drive out remains of rivets with suitable drift. Remove remains of rivets and swarf from door, danger of rusting.
# Unhook window lift guide rail (9) from inner door panel and push to one side
# Unscrew lock fixing screws (11)
# Unscrew lock cover screw (10). Lock cover is permanently attached to the door lock and cannot be removed separately.
# Remove door lock (6) via access cover

Installing:
# Insert door lock (6) via access cover
# Screw in lock fixing screws (11)
# Screw in and tighten screw (10) for lock cover
# Hook window lift guide rail (9) onto inner door panel with the two mounting hooks
# Rivet window lift guide rail (9) flush with inner door panel with 4.8 mm blind rivets (arrows)
# Connect central locking line (5) to central locking element on door lock
# Close retainer (4) for unlocking bar (3). With retainer (4) open, push unlocking bar upwards until resistance can be felt. Then close retainer again
# Hang Bowden cable (1) onto door lock (6). Clip holder (8) to door lock.
# Install crank window
# Adjust crank window on front door
# Check clearance and correct if necessary
# Carry out operational check
# Fix sound deadener to inner door panel
# Install door liner on front door

* Screw on door lock: 10 Nm
* Front door test values: Clearance: 2(+-1)mm
{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGJW1eNvswU|320|left|Door lock actuator replacement.|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IF6R4MhBVsw|320|left|Door lock actuator repair.|frame}}
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_front_left_door_lock_removed.jpg|thumb|none|Front left door lock removed.]]
|[[File:W220_front_left_door_lock_side1.jpg|thumb|none|Front left door lock.]]
|[[File:W220_front_left_door_lock_side2.jpg|thumb|none|Front left door lock.]]
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_front_left_exterior_door_handle_spring_mechanism.jpg|thumb|none|Door handle spring mechanism.]]
|[[File:W220_front_left_door_unlocking_bar.jpg|thumb|none|Door unlocking bar.]]
|[[File:W220_door_unlocking_bar_connected.jpg|thumb|none|Door unlocking bar connected (front right side).]]
|}

[[File:W220_front_left_door_lock_reinstalled.jpg|thumb|none|Door lock reinstalled.]]

==Removing and installing exterior door handle on front door==

{|
|[[File:W220_Removing_and_installing_exterior_door_handle_on_front_door.png]]
|
* 1 - Handle
* 2 - Lock cylinder guide
* 3 - Rotating rod
* 4 - Base
* 5 - Base
* 6 - Torx screw
* 7 - Allen screw, 6
* 8 - Hinge strap
* 9 - Screw
* 10 - Base
* 11 - Control lever
* X8/13 - Driver's door infrared receiver connector
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_Removing_and_installing_exterior_door_handle_on_front_door_2.png]]
|[[File:W220_Removing_and_installing_exterior_door_handle_on_front_door_3.png]]
|
* 2 - Lock cylinder guide
* 3 - Rotating rod
* 6 - Torx screw
* 13 - Opening for Torx screw
* 14 - Door lock
* X8/13 - Driver's door infrared receiver connector
|}

Removal:
# Remove cap from installation opening (13) narrow side of door
# Unscrew Torx screw (6). Remove Torx screw (6). Secure against falling down.
# Remove guide (2). Slightly pivot guide (2) toward rear and then pull out toward outside. Simultaneously pull out handle (1) slightly. Avoid damaging paint.
# Disconnect driver's door infrared receiver connector (X8/13)
# Remove handle (1) with bases (4) and (5). Pull handle (1) with bases (4) and (5) out of hinge strap (8) toward rear.
# Remove door liner
# Pull off insulating mat in area of door lock
# Remove hinge strap (8). First open retainer for release handle, unscrew screw (9) from handle recess and remove hinge strap (8) with release handle through installation opening in inner door panel.

Installation:
# Install hinge strap (8). Insert hinge strap (8) with release handle through installation opening in inner door panel and insert release handle into control lever retainer. Turn screw (9) into handle recess.
# Install handle (1) in hinge strap (8) together with bases (4) and (5). Ensure that the lever on the handle slides behind the actuation lever (11) on the bracket so that the lock can be unlocked.
# Insert guide (2). Simultaneously insert driver's door infrared receiver connector (X8/13). When inserting the guide (2) ensure that the rotating rod (3) is moved into the door lock (14) in the correct position.
# Tighten guide with Torx screw (6). Secure Torx screw (6) against falling down.
# Adjust clearance between handle (1) and actuation lever (12). Press release handle with retainer opened up until resistance can be felt. Then lock retainer.
# Check clearance. Pull handle (1) until resistance can be felt clearly.
# Glue on insulating mat. Replace damaged insulating mat.
# Install door liner
# Insert installation opening (13) cap into narrow side of door
# Check for proper function

* Screw for front door handle: 3 Nm
* Adjustment values for side door: Clearance: 2(+-1)mm

==Removing and installing exterior door handle on front door (KEYLESS-GO)==


{|
|[[File:W220_Removing_and_installing_exterior_door_handle_on_front_door_keyless-go.jpg]]
|
* 1 - Handle
* 2 - Lock cylinder guide
* 3 - Rotating rod
* 4 - Base
* 5 - Base
* 6 - Torx screw
* 7 - Allen screw, 6
* 8 - Hinge strap
* 9 - Screw
* 10 - Base
* 11 - Control lever
* X8/13 - Driver's door infrared receiver connector
* S47x1 - Capacitive sensor and push contact connector
* S48x1 - Capacitive sensor and push contact connector
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_Removing_and_installing_exterior_door_handle_on_front_door_2.png]]
|[[File:W220_Removing_and_installing_exterior_door_handle_on_front_door_3.png]]
|
* 2 - Lock cylinder guide
* 3 - Rotating rod
* 6 - Torx screw
* 13 - Opening for Torx screw
* 14 - Door lock
* X8/13 - Driver's door infrared receiver connector
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_Removing_and_installing_exterior_door_handle_on_front_door_keyless-go_2.jpg]]
|
* X35/1 - Left door separation point
* X35/2 - Right door separation point
* S47x1 - Capacitive sensor and push contact connector
* S48x1 - Capacitive sensor and push contact connector
|}

Removal:
# Remove cap from installation opening (13) narrow side of door
# Unscrew Torx screw (6). Remove Torx screw (6). Secure against falling down.
# Remove guide (2). Slightly pivot guide (2) toward rear and then pull out toward outside. Simultaneously pull out handle (1) slightly. Avoid damaging paint.
# Disconnect driver's door infrared receiver connector (X8/13)
# Remove door liner
# Disconnect keyless go connector on hinge strap (8)
# Remove handle (1) with bases (4) and (5). Pull handle (1) with bases (4) and (5) out of hinge strap (8) toward rear.
# Pull off insulating mat in area of door lock
# Remove hinge strap (8). First open retainer for release handle, unscrew screw (9) from handle recess and remove hinge strap (8) with release handle through installation opening in inner door panel.
# Disconnect keyless go connector on inner door panel. Remove cable strap.

Installation:
# Install hinge strap (8). Insert hinge strap (8) with release handle through installation opening in inner door panel and insert release handle into control lever retainer. Turn screw (9) into handle recess.
# Contact keyless go connector on inner door panel. Replace cable strap.
# Install handle (1) in hinge strap (8) together with bases (4) and (5). Ensure that the lever on the handle slides behind the actuation lever (11) on the bracket so that the lock can be unlocked.
# Contact keyless go connector on bearing bracket (8)
# Insert guide (2). Simultaneously insert driver's door infrared receiver connector (X8/13). When inserting the guide (2) ensure that the rotating rod (3) is moved into the door lock (14) in the correct position.
# Tighten guide with Torx screw (6). Secure Torx screw (6) against falling down.
# Adjust clearance between handle (1) and actuation lever (12). Press release handle with retainer opened up until resistance can be felt. Then lock retainer.
# Check clearance. Pull handle (1) until resistance can be felt clearly.
# Glue on insulating mat. Replace damaged insulating mat.
# Install door liner
# Insert installation opening (13) cap into narrow side of door
# Check for proper function

* Screw for front door handle: 3 Nm
* Adjustment values for side door: Clearance: 2(+-1)mm

==Remove/install front door side airbag unit==

{|
|[[File:W220_Remove_install_front_door_side_airbag_unit.jpg]]
|
* 1 - Riveting
* 2 - Sidebag unit
* 3 - Retaining plate
* R12/9 - Driver sidebag squib
* R12/10 - Front passenger sidebag squib
|}

# Switch off ignition and store transmitter key outside of transmission range (min. 2 m)
# Disconnect battery ground line
# Remove door lining from left or right front doors
# Release and disconnect electrical connector from driver sidebag squib (R12/9) or from front passenger sidebag squib (R12/10)
# Drill rivets (1) out from the bracket plate (3) of the sidebag unit (2)
# Remove sidebag unit (2)
# Install in the reverse order
# Check and erase vehicle fault memory using diagnostic system (when replacing sidebag unit (2)).

{|
|[[File:W220_front_left_door_airbag_installed.jpg|thumb|none|Front left door airbag.]]
|[[File:W220_front_left_door_airbag_connected.jpg|thumb|none|Connection to airbag.]]
|}

{| class="wikitable"
! Error Code
! Generated By
! Description
|-
|9243
|AB - Airbag
|The resistance value in the ignition circuit containing component R12/10 (Front passenger side airbag ignition squib) is too high.
|}

==Remove/install front door power window switch group==

{|
|[[File:W220_Remove_install_front_door_power_window_switch_group.jpg]]
|
* 1 - Molding
* 2 - Door control module cover
* 3 - Door handle cover
* 4 - Door trim panel
* 5 - Switch group cover
* 6 - Assembly wedge
* S20/1 - Switch group for power window, driver's side
|}

# Press molding strip (1) out of door control module cover (2) on driver's door with assembly wedge (6)
# Remove door handle cover (3) from door handle in direction of arrow
# Unscrew door control module cover (2) from door liner (4) of driver's door and press off with assembly wedge (6)
# Unclip switch group cover (5) with switch group for power window, driver's side (S20/1) from door liner. For this purpose slightly press cover in at bottom edge (arrow) and lift until cover can be removed together with switch group for power window, driver's side (S20/1).
# Remove power window switch group connector, driver's side from door control module.
# Remove switch group cover (5) from power window switch group, driver's side (S20/1). For this purpose press retaining lugs (arrows) for power window switch group, driver's side (S20/1) together with suitable tool until power window switch group, driver's side (S20/1) can be removed out of switch group cover (5) toward inside. Power window switch group, driver's side (S20/1) can only be replaced completely.
# Install in the reverse order

==Remove/install front power window switches==


{|
|[[File:W220_Remove_install_front_power_window_switches.jpg]]
|
* 1 - Switch cover
* 2 - Door trim panel
* S19s1 - Right front power window switch
|}

# Unclip switch cover (1) with right front power window switch (S19s1) from door liner (2) on passenger door. For this purpose lift switch cover (1) at bottom edge (arrow) until switch cover (1) can be removed with right front power window switch (S19s1).
# Disconnect right front power window switch connector from right front power window (S19s1).
# Remove switch cover from right front power window switch (S19s1). For this purpose press retaining lugs (arrows) for right front power window switch (S19s1) together with suitable tool until right front power window switch (S19s1) can be pressed out of switch cover toward inside.
# Install in the reverse order

Front doors

2022-08-21T17:24:04Z

Masood:

==Remove/install door lining on front door==


Shown on model 220 up to VIN 316716 (pre-facelift):
{|
|[[File:W220_Remove_install_door_lining_on_front_door.png]]
|
* 1 - Trim strip
* 2 - Covering
* 3 - Door handle cover
* 4 - Door lining
* 5 - Cover on switch group
* 6 - Screw
* 7 - Lock rosette
* 8 - Inner door panel
* 9 - Fastening clips
* 10 - Screw
* 11 - Screw
* 12 - Cover
* 13 - Screw
|}

Shown on model 220 up to VIN 316716 (pre-[[facelift]]):
{|
|[[File:W220_Remove_install_door_lining_on_front_door_up_to_VIN_316716.jpg]]
|
* 1 - Trim strip
* 2 - Covering
* 3 - Door handle cover
* 15 - Bolts
* 17 - Cap
|}

Shown on model 220 As of VIN 316717 ([[facelift]]):
{|
|[[File:W220_Remove_install_door_lining_on_front_door_as_of_VIN_316717.jpg]]
|
* 1 - Trim strip
* 2 - Covering
* 15 - Bolts
* 16 - Door opener cover
|}

Shown on model 220 up to VIN 316716 (pre-[[facelift]]):
{|
|[[File:W220_Remove_install_door_lining_on_front_door_up_to_VIN_316716_DCM.jpg]]
|
* 2 - Covering
* N69/1 - Left front door control unit
* N69/2 - Right front door control unit
|}

# Press trim strip (1) out of covering (2)
# Up to VIN 316716 (pre-[[facelift]]):
## Remove door handle cover (3) from door handle
## Unclip cap (17)
# As of VIN 316717 ([[facelift]]):
## Remove door opener cover (16)
# Remove screws (15)
# Press covering (2) off of door lining (2)
# Disconnect electrical connector from left front door control unit (N69/1) and right front door control unit (N69/2). For this purpose, remove covering (2).
# Unclip cover on switch group (5) with switch group from door lining (4). For this purpose, pull cover on switch group (5) downward at bottom edge until cover on switch group (5) can be removed.
# Unscrew bolt (6) from round cover plate (7). For this purpose, remove round cover plate (7).
# Unscrew bolts (10, 11) from inner door handle
# Remove screw (13). For this purpose, remove cover (12).
# Press door lining (4) off of inner door panel (8). Move mounting wedge (14) directly to fastening clips (9) and ensure that the retainer tabs on the fastening clip (9) do not tear out of the door lining (4).
# Lift door lining (4) at top on sealing rail out of retaining clips and simultaneously pull away from inner door panel (8). Installation: Remove fastening clips remaining on inner door panel (8) and install.
# Unhook Bowden cable from inside door opener
# Disconnect electrical connectors from door lining (4) and lay down door lining (4)
# Check door foil and fastening clips (9). Installation: Replace damaged door foil and fastening clips (9).
# Install in the reverse order

This video shows in detail how to replace the Door Control Module which is the central brains behind all door functions including most power window functions.
In the case of the specific issue in this video, as soon as the engine was turned on, the driver window would automatically roll down. Replacing the Door Control Module with a used part from eBay for
around $40 as of Aug 2022, fixed the issue. Another solution would be to reprogram the module but that requires special tools and access not afforded to most DIYers.
{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/Bu6hFyjh6NQ|320|left|Replace S600 S50 S430 S55AMG Door Control Module (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UepxCXwGitY|320|left|Front door panel removal (facelift).|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTM-0lcFpMk|320|left|Front door panel removal (pre-facelift).|frame}}
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_front_left_door_panelling_removed.jpg|thumb|none|Front left door with panelling removed.]]
|[[File:W220_front_left_door_panelling_removed_keyless-go_antenna.jpg|thumb|none|[[KEYLESS-GO]] antenna.]]
|[[File:W220_front_left_door_wires.jpg|thumb|none|Front left door wiring.]]
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_front_left_door_panelling_inside.jpg|thumb|none|Front left door panelling inside.]]
|[[File:W220_front_left_door_panelling_inside_latch_and_handle_illumination_module.jpg|thumb|none|Latch guide and handle illumination module.]]
|}

==Removing and installing front door lock==


{|
|[[File:W220_Removing_and_installing_front_door_lock_1.png]]
|
* 1 - Bowden cable
* 2 - Locking bar
* 5 - CL cable
* 6 - Door lock
* 9 - Window lift guide rail
* 10 - Bolt
* 11 - Bolt
* Arrow - blind rivet
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_Removing_and_installing_front_door_lock_2.png]]
|
* 1 - Bowden cable
* 2 - Locking bar
* 3 - Unlocking bar
* 4 - Fuse
* 6 - Door lock
* 8 - Bracket
* 11 - Screws
|}

Removing:
# Remove door liner on front door
# [[windows|Remove crank operated window]] on front door
# Unhook Bowden cable (1) for inside door opener onto door lock (6) and remove. Unclip holder (8) on lock.
# Open retainer (4) for unlocking bar (3).
# Press IRCL line (5) off door lock IRCL element
# Drill out blind rivets (arrows). Use 4.8 mm dia. drill for drilling out, taking care not to damage the inner door panel. Drive out remains of rivets with suitable drift. Remove remains of rivets and swarf from door, danger of rusting.
# Unhook window lift guide rail (9) from inner door panel and push to one side
# Unscrew lock fixing screws (11)
# Unscrew lock cover screw (10). Lock cover is permanently attached to the door lock and cannot be removed separately.
# Remove door lock (6) via access cover

Installing:
# Insert door lock (6) via access cover
# Screw in lock fixing screws (11)
# Screw in and tighten screw (10) for lock cover
# Hook window lift guide rail (9) onto inner door panel with the two mounting hooks
# Rivet window lift guide rail (9) flush with inner door panel with 4.8 mm blind rivets (arrows)
# Connect central locking line (5) to central locking element on door lock
# Close retainer (4) for unlocking bar (3). With retainer (4) open, push unlocking bar upwards until resistance can be felt. Then close retainer again
# Hang Bowden cable (1) onto door lock (6). Clip holder (8) to door lock.
# Install crank window
# Adjust crank window on front door
# Check clearance and correct if necessary
# Carry out operational check
# Fix sound deadener to inner door panel
# Install door liner on front door

* Screw on door lock: 10 Nm
* Front door test values: Clearance: 2(+-1)mm
{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGJW1eNvswU|320|left|Door lock actuator replacement.|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IF6R4MhBVsw|320|left|Door lock actuator repair.|frame}}
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_front_left_door_lock_removed.jpg|thumb|none|Front left door lock removed.]]
|[[File:W220_front_left_door_lock_side1.jpg|thumb|none|Front left door lock.]]
|[[File:W220_front_left_door_lock_side2.jpg|thumb|none|Front left door lock.]]
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_front_left_exterior_door_handle_spring_mechanism.jpg|thumb|none|Door handle spring mechanism.]]
|[[File:W220_front_left_door_unlocking_bar.jpg|thumb|none|Door unlocking bar.]]
|[[File:W220_door_unlocking_bar_connected.jpg|thumb|none|Door unlocking bar connected (front right side).]]
|}

[[File:W220_front_left_door_lock_reinstalled.jpg|thumb|none|Door lock reinstalled.]]

==Removing and installing exterior door handle on front door==

{|
|[[File:W220_Removing_and_installing_exterior_door_handle_on_front_door.png]]
|
* 1 - Handle
* 2 - Lock cylinder guide
* 3 - Rotating rod
* 4 - Base
* 5 - Base
* 6 - Torx screw
* 7 - Allen screw, 6
* 8 - Hinge strap
* 9 - Screw
* 10 - Base
* 11 - Control lever
* X8/13 - Driver's door infrared receiver connector
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_Removing_and_installing_exterior_door_handle_on_front_door_2.png]]
|[[File:W220_Removing_and_installing_exterior_door_handle_on_front_door_3.png]]
|
* 2 - Lock cylinder guide
* 3 - Rotating rod
* 6 - Torx screw
* 13 - Opening for Torx screw
* 14 - Door lock
* X8/13 - Driver's door infrared receiver connector
|}

Removal:
# Remove cap from installation opening (13) narrow side of door
# Unscrew Torx screw (6). Remove Torx screw (6). Secure against falling down.
# Remove guide (2). Slightly pivot guide (2) toward rear and then pull out toward outside. Simultaneously pull out handle (1) slightly. Avoid damaging paint.
# Disconnect driver's door infrared receiver connector (X8/13)
# Remove handle (1) with bases (4) and (5). Pull handle (1) with bases (4) and (5) out of hinge strap (8) toward rear.
# Remove door liner
# Pull off insulating mat in area of door lock
# Remove hinge strap (8). First open retainer for release handle, unscrew screw (9) from handle recess and remove hinge strap (8) with release handle through installation opening in inner door panel.

Installation:
# Install hinge strap (8). Insert hinge strap (8) with release handle through installation opening in inner door panel and insert release handle into control lever retainer. Turn screw (9) into handle recess.
# Install handle (1) in hinge strap (8) together with bases (4) and (5). Ensure that the lever on the handle slides behind the actuation lever (11) on the bracket so that the lock can be unlocked.
# Insert guide (2). Simultaneously insert driver's door infrared receiver connector (X8/13). When inserting the guide (2) ensure that the rotating rod (3) is moved into the door lock (14) in the correct position.
# Tighten guide with Torx screw (6). Secure Torx screw (6) against falling down.
# Adjust clearance between handle (1) and actuation lever (12). Press release handle with retainer opened up until resistance can be felt. Then lock retainer.
# Check clearance. Pull handle (1) until resistance can be felt clearly.
# Glue on insulating mat. Replace damaged insulating mat.
# Install door liner
# Insert installation opening (13) cap into narrow side of door
# Check for proper function

* Screw for front door handle: 3 Nm
* Adjustment values for side door: Clearance: 2(+-1)mm

==Removing and installing exterior door handle on front door (KEYLESS-GO)==


{|
|[[File:W220_Removing_and_installing_exterior_door_handle_on_front_door_keyless-go.jpg]]
|
* 1 - Handle
* 2 - Lock cylinder guide
* 3 - Rotating rod
* 4 - Base
* 5 - Base
* 6 - Torx screw
* 7 - Allen screw, 6
* 8 - Hinge strap
* 9 - Screw
* 10 - Base
* 11 - Control lever
* X8/13 - Driver's door infrared receiver connector
* S47x1 - Capacitive sensor and push contact connector
* S48x1 - Capacitive sensor and push contact connector
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_Removing_and_installing_exterior_door_handle_on_front_door_2.png]]
|[[File:W220_Removing_and_installing_exterior_door_handle_on_front_door_3.png]]
|
* 2 - Lock cylinder guide
* 3 - Rotating rod
* 6 - Torx screw
* 13 - Opening for Torx screw
* 14 - Door lock
* X8/13 - Driver's door infrared receiver connector
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_Removing_and_installing_exterior_door_handle_on_front_door_keyless-go_2.jpg]]
|
* X35/1 - Left door separation point
* X35/2 - Right door separation point
* S47x1 - Capacitive sensor and push contact connector
* S48x1 - Capacitive sensor and push contact connector
|}

Removal:
# Remove cap from installation opening (13) narrow side of door
# Unscrew Torx screw (6). Remove Torx screw (6). Secure against falling down.
# Remove guide (2). Slightly pivot guide (2) toward rear and then pull out toward outside. Simultaneously pull out handle (1) slightly. Avoid damaging paint.
# Disconnect driver's door infrared receiver connector (X8/13)
# Remove door liner
# Disconnect keyless go connector on hinge strap (8)
# Remove handle (1) with bases (4) and (5). Pull handle (1) with bases (4) and (5) out of hinge strap (8) toward rear.
# Pull off insulating mat in area of door lock
# Remove hinge strap (8). First open retainer for release handle, unscrew screw (9) from handle recess and remove hinge strap (8) with release handle through installation opening in inner door panel.
# Disconnect keyless go connector on inner door panel. Remove cable strap.

Installation:
# Install hinge strap (8). Insert hinge strap (8) with release handle through installation opening in inner door panel and insert release handle into control lever retainer. Turn screw (9) into handle recess.
# Contact keyless go connector on inner door panel. Replace cable strap.
# Install handle (1) in hinge strap (8) together with bases (4) and (5). Ensure that the lever on the handle slides behind the actuation lever (11) on the bracket so that the lock can be unlocked.
# Contact keyless go connector on bearing bracket (8)
# Insert guide (2). Simultaneously insert driver's door infrared receiver connector (X8/13). When inserting the guide (2) ensure that the rotating rod (3) is moved into the door lock (14) in the correct position.
# Tighten guide with Torx screw (6). Secure Torx screw (6) against falling down.
# Adjust clearance between handle (1) and actuation lever (12). Press release handle with retainer opened up until resistance can be felt. Then lock retainer.
# Check clearance. Pull handle (1) until resistance can be felt clearly.
# Glue on insulating mat. Replace damaged insulating mat.
# Install door liner
# Insert installation opening (13) cap into narrow side of door
# Check for proper function

* Screw for front door handle: 3 Nm
* Adjustment values for side door: Clearance: 2(+-1)mm

==Remove/install front door side airbag unit==

{|
|[[File:W220_Remove_install_front_door_side_airbag_unit.jpg]]
|
* 1 - Riveting
* 2 - Sidebag unit
* 3 - Retaining plate
* R12/9 - Driver sidebag squib
* R12/10 - Front passenger sidebag squib
|}

# Switch off ignition and store transmitter key outside of transmission range (min. 2 m)
# Disconnect battery ground line
# Remove door lining from left or right front doors
# Release and disconnect electrical connector from driver sidebag squib (R12/9) or from front passenger sidebag squib (R12/10)
# Drill rivets (1) out from the bracket plate (3) of the sidebag unit (2)
# Remove sidebag unit (2)
# Install in the reverse order
# Check and erase vehicle fault memory using diagnostic system (when replacing sidebag unit (2)).

{|
|[[File:W220_front_left_door_airbag_installed.jpg|thumb|none|Front left door airbag.]]
|[[File:W220_front_left_door_airbag_connected.jpg|thumb|none|Connection to airbag.]]
|}

{| class="wikitable"
! Error Code
! Generated By
! Description
|-
|9243
|AB - Airbag
|The resistance value in the ignition circuit containing component R12/10 (Front passenger side airbag ignition squib) is too high.
|}

==Remove/install front door power window switch group==

{|
|[[File:W220_Remove_install_front_door_power_window_switch_group.jpg]]
|
* 1 - Molding
* 2 - Door control module cover
* 3 - Door handle cover
* 4 - Door trim panel
* 5 - Switch group cover
* 6 - Assembly wedge
* S20/1 - Switch group for power window, driver's side
|}

# Press molding strip (1) out of door control module cover (2) on driver's door with assembly wedge (6)
# Remove door handle cover (3) from door handle in direction of arrow
# Unscrew door control module cover (2) from door liner (4) of driver's door and press off with assembly wedge (6)
# Unclip switch group cover (5) with switch group for power window, driver's side (S20/1) from door liner. For this purpose slightly press cover in at bottom edge (arrow) and lift until cover can be removed together with switch group for power window, driver's side (S20/1).
# Remove power window switch group connector, driver's side from door control module.
# Remove switch group cover (5) from power window switch group, driver's side (S20/1). For this purpose press retaining lugs (arrows) for power window switch group, driver's side (S20/1) together with suitable tool until power window switch group, driver's side (S20/1) can be removed out of switch group cover (5) toward inside. Power window switch group, driver's side (S20/1) can only be replaced completely.
# Install in the reverse order

==Remove/install front power window switches==


{|
|[[File:W220_Remove_install_front_power_window_switches.jpg]]
|
* 1 - Switch cover
* 2 - Door trim panel
* S19s1 - Right front power window switch
|}

# Unclip switch cover (1) with right front power window switch (S19s1) from door liner (2) on passenger door. For this purpose lift switch cover (1) at bottom edge (arrow) until switch cover (1) can be removed with right front power window switch (S19s1).
# Disconnect right front power window switch connector from right front power window (S19s1).
# Remove switch cover from right front power window switch (S19s1). For this purpose press retaining lugs (arrows) for right front power window switch (S19s1) together with suitable tool until right front power window switch (S19s1) can be pressed out of switch cover toward inside.
# Install in the reverse order

Crankcase ventilation cylinder head cover

2022-06-18T20:41:06Z

Masood:

{|
|[[File:W220_EPC_engine_housing_cylinder_head_cover_v6.png|thumb|none|Parts in [[EPC]] related to engine housing - cylinder head cover (M112 V6 engine)]]
|[[File:W220_EPC_engine_housing_cylinder_head_cover_v8.png|thumb|none|Parts in [[EPC]] related to engine housing - cylinder head cover (M113 V8 engine)]]
|}

== Crankcase ventilation ==

=== Oil leaks ===
Crankcase ventilation cover (engine breather cover) is a very common source for oil leaks on Mercedes M112 V6 and M113 V8 engines. Just pull the top cover off your engine and look. Even cars with low mileage may have oil seeping out the breather covers on the top of the heads. When the oil gets on exhaust manifold, it creates smell that can be felt even in the cabin. Resealing the leaking breather chamber covers on top of engine is easy way to fix oil leak.

This is the job any owner of a 1998 to 2006 Mercedes with a V6 (M112) or a V8 (M113) engine will have to deal with at some point. Doing a proper reseal on these covers is not hard but it is tedious if you don't want them to leak again. This is one job if you want it done right you should consider doing it yourself!

{|
|[[File:W220_engine_breather_cover_oil_leak_M112_left_side.jpg|thumb|none|Breather cover oil leak (M112 - left side)]]
|[[File:W220_engine_breather_cover_oil_leak_M112_right_side.jpg|thumb|none|Breather cover oil leak (M112 - right side)]]
|[[File:W220_engine_breather_cover_oil_leak_M113_left_side.jpg|thumb|none|Breather cover oil leak (M113 - left side)]]
|[[File:W220_engine_breather_cover_oil_leak_M113_right_side.jpg|thumb|none|Breather cover oil leak (M113 - right side)]]
|}

=== Clogged ventilation valve ===
If engine oil is not regularly changed, the ventilation breather valve hole can become clogged which will result in water condensate being accumulated on the top of crankcase and visible on the engine oil cap. Proper cleaning of the milky water residue requires it to be cleaned also from the cylinder head cover. This may be a good moment to also replace the cylinder head cover gaskets.

{|
|[[File:W220_engine_oil_cap_milky_water_residue.jpg|thumb|none|Milky water residue on the engine oil cap (M112 engine)]]
|[[File:W220_engine_head_cover_milky_water_residue.jpg|thumb|none|Milky water residue on the cylinder head cover (M112 engine)]]
|[[File:W220_engine_head_cover_crankcase_ventilation_sealing.jpg|thumb|none|Resealing ventilation breather cover (M112 engine)]]
|}

=== Parts ===

Several parts will be needed for replacement. Several resealing kits are available:
* https://mercedessource.com/store/1998-2006-v6-and-v8-engine-breather-cover-oil-leak-fix-kit
* https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-breather-cover-reseal-kit-m112-m113-oem-m112bcvr

Below are the part numbers for each part.

==== Bolts ====
The 5 original aluminium bolts will have to be replaced with updated stainless steel ones as the old will snap if trying to reuse them.
The replacement stainless steel bolts have a 5 mm hex head rather than a torx head.

The bolts correspond to M5x18 specification and their part number is N000000004436 (~2 EUR/piece).

[[File:N000000004436.jpg|thumb|none|M5x18 bolt (N000000004436)]]

==== Sealant ====
Proper sealant must be used. OEM sealant is Loctite 5970 which is a silicone sealant and cures on exposure to moisture in the air to form a tough rubber gasket. The product is designed primarily for flexible flange sealing. It is ideally used where high vibration or flexing occurs. It is tack-free after just 25 min. The product can be used on machined or cast surfaces, metal, plastic or painted parts.

* A003989982010 50ml (OE) - EUR 26
* Loctite 5970 300ml (OEM) - EUR 18
* Elring Dirko 70ml - EUR 5

{|
|[[File:A003989982010_sealant_compound_50ml.jpg|thumb|none|A003989982010 sealing compound 50ml]]
|[[File:Loctite_SI_5970_sealant_300ml.jpg|thumb|none|Loctite 5970 sealing compound 300ml]]
|[[File:Elring_dirko_sealant_black.jpg|thumb|none|Elring Dirko sealant 70ml]]
|}

==== Cleaner ====
It must be made sure that the sealing surfaces are ABSOLUTELY clean of any dirt, oil, or moisture BEFORE applying the new sealant. Mercedes instructions recommend using Loctite 7200 to remove old pieces of gasket sealant and Loctite 7063 to prepare surface for the new sealant.

{|
|
{|
|
* Loctite 7200 (EUR 15) 400 ml spray - Parts Cleaner - gasket remover. Removes gasket sealants in 10-15 minutes.
Removes all types of chemical gaskets eliminating excessive scraping. Softens chemical gaskets quickly. Will not run, even on vertical surfaces. Removes cured chemical gaskets by softening the gasket material on the flanges, avoiding excessive scraping. Dissolves also sealants, adhesives, carbon deposits, and dried oils. Once applied the product foams, preventing run off from the desired location. Application: Protect painted surfaces, as Gasket Remover attacks the paint. Hold can upright and spray from distance of about 20 - 30 cm onto the flange or surface. Allow 10 - 15 minutes to soften the gasket, for silicone gaskets 30 minutes are necessary. Remove gasket with a soft scraper. Wipe the surface with a rag. Repeat procedure if it is necessary.
|}

{|
|
* Loctite 7063 (EUR 12) 400 ml spray - Parts Cleaner - general purpose. For use prior to bonding and sealing applications. Leaves no residue.
** A001986717110 (EUR 10) 150ml spray
Excellent for surface preparation. High cleaning power. Rapid flash off. Use to prepare surfaces to be bonded. The product flashes off very quickly and it allows cleaning directly prior to adhesive/sealant application. It is non-corrosive and non toxic. Application: Spray a sufficient amount of product on the surface to be cleaned and wipe while still wet to ensure heavy contamination and excess solvent is removed.
|}

|
|[[File:Loctite-sf-7200.jpg|100px]]
|[[File:Loctite-sf-7063.jpg|100px]]
|}

==== Breather hoses ====
Over time the rubber hoses get hard and cannot be removed without breaking. It is therefore recommended to replace 4 hoses and 3 connectors. Connectors are usual in good condition and require no replacement. For some of the hoses FEBI BILSTEIN is OE mananufacturer.

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/_yhebTmn8K8|320|center|W220/W210 Breather Hoses Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

[[File:W220_engine_112_intake_manifold_EPC.png|thumb|none|Parts in [[EPC]] related to intake manifold (Engine 112)]]
{|
|[[File:W220_A1120180182_A1120180282_A1120180382_A1179901578_Part_load_crankcase_ventilation_hoses_connected_together.jpg|thumb|none|A1120180182, A1120180282, A1120180382 hoses joined together]]
|[[File:W220_A1120180482_Full-load_crankcase_ventilation_hose_connected.jpg|thumb|none|A1120180482 hose one side connected to engine air intake cover]]
|}

Engine 112 and 113 (S350/S500):
{|
|[[File:A1120180482_full_load_crankcase_ventilation_hose.jpg|200px]]
|
* A1120180482 (140) - Full-load crankcase ventilation hose - EUR 11
** Trucktec automotive 0218048 - EUR 4
** Topran 407867 - EUR 5
|}
{|
|[[File:A1120180182_part_load_crankcase_ventilation_hose.jpg|200px]]
|
* A1120180182 (146) - Part load crankcase ventilation hose - EUR 9
** Febi bilstein 33850 - EUR 4
** Swag 10933850 - EUR 4
|}
{|
|[[File:A1120180282_part_load_crankcase_ventilation_hose.jpg|200px]]
|
* A1120180282 (152) - Part load crankcase ventilation hose - EUR 6
** Febi bilstein 33851 - EUR 3
** Topran 407865 - EUR 3
|}
{|
|[[File:A1120180382_part_load_crankcase_ventilation_hose.jpg|200px]]
|
* A1120180382 (170) - Part load crankcase ventilation hose - EUR 9
** Febi bilstein 33852 - EUR 3
** Swag 10933852 - EUR 3
|}
{|
|[[File:A1179901578_part_load_crankcase_ventilation_connector.jpg|200px]]
|
* A1179901578 (164) - Part load crankcase ventilation connector x3 - EUR 2
|}

=== Remove/install cover for crankcase ventilation (WIS instruction) ===

ENGINES 112, 113

{|
|Shown on engine 113:
* 1 - Bolts
* 2 - Cover for crankcase ventilation
* 3 - Cylinder head covers
|[[File:W220_crankcase_ventilation2.jpg|300px]]
|}

{|
|Sealant path - Shown on engine 113:
* 2 - Cover for crankcase ventilation
* A - Sealant
* Arrow - Sealant, bolt holes
|[[File:W220_crankcase_ventilation1.jpg|300px]]
|}

Work instructions:
* Aluminum bolts (1). Installation: Install new bolts.
* Clean. When cylinder head covers are installed, cover oil ducts with rags. Do not use any sharp-edged tools or abrasive paper as this will damage the sealing surfaces. Oil channels clogged with sealant will damage the engine. Cleaning materials: Loctite 7200 and Loctite 7063 cleaning spray 150 ml (A001986717110).
* Sealant. Apply a 2.0 mm thick bead of sealant (A), observing the bolt holes (arrow). Do not spread the silicone bead. Process sealant within 10 minutes. To avoid leaks, use only the silicone sealant specified in the repair materials - Loctite 5970 sealant (A0039899820)!

Torque specification:
* Bolt, crankcase ventilation cover to the cylinder head valve cover: 4 Nm (Engine 112 and 113)

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lo_-nrhoRyU|320|left|Mercedes M112 M113 Engine Breather Oil Leak Fix Kit|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m316C8PmCcY|320|left|Mercedes M112 V6, M113 V8 oil breather resealing|frame}}
|}

== Cylinder head cover ==
Cylinder head cover is also popular source for oil leaks on M112 and M113 engines. It is highly recommended to use OE gasket as it provides the best quality and requires no additional sealant.

=== Cylinder head cover gaskets ===

Engine 112 (S350):
* A1120160221 Cylinder head cover gasket (left) - EUR 20
* A1120160321 Cylinder head cover gasket (right) - EUR 20

[[File:W220_gasket_A1120160221_A1120160321.jpg|thumb|none|Engine 112 cylinder head cover gaskets (left and right)]]

Engine 113 (S500):
* A1120160221 Cylinder head cover gasket (left) - EUR 22
* A1120160321 Cylinder head cover gasket (right) - EUR 22

[[File:W220_gasket_A1130160221_A1130160321.jpg|thumb|none|Engine 113 cylinder head cover gaskets (left and right)]]

=== Remove/install cylinder head cover (WIS instruction) ===


{|
|Shown on engine 112.945:
* 1 - Engine cover with integrated air filter
* 2 - Right cylinder head cover
* 3 - Left cylinder head cover
* 4 - Right ignition coils
* 5 - Left ignition coils
* 6 - Right connection
* 7 - Left connection
* 8 - Left connection
|[[File:W220_remove_install_cylinder_head_cover.png|300px]]
|}

Remove/install:
# Remove engine trim panel with integrated air filter (1). Unclip covering on front side of engine. Remove air filter by pulling vertically up and off the cylinder head covers.
# Remove air filter (Model 215.374, 220.074/174)
# Unscrew guide tube for the automatic transmission oil dipstick
# Detach right ignition coils (4), left ignition coils (5) on right cylinder head cover (2) and left cylinder head cover (3). Except engines 112.911/914/915/917/954, Engine 113.969.
# Disconnect spark plug connectors. Installation: Observe marking for spark plug connectors on the cylinder head covers and ignition coils.
# Pull off vent hoses on right connector (6) and on left connector (7) of the right cylinder head cover (2) and left cylinder head cover (3).
# Pull off engine vent hose on left connector (8) of left cylinder head cover (3).
# Disconnect fuel line at fuel rail. Only on vehicles with rigid fuel line and: Model 211.061/065/070/076/276, Model 215.374, Model 220.074, Model 230.474/475. Release fuel pressure through service valve!
# Remove right cylinder head cover (2) and left cylinder head cover (3). Installation: Check cylinder head covers for leaks, see: Ensure cylinder head cover gasket is correctly installed.
# Install in the reverse order
# Check for leaks with engine running

Torque specifications:
* Cylinder head cover bolt: 9 Nm (Engine 112 and 113)
* Bolt, ignition coils to cylinder head cover: 8 Nm (Engine 112 and 113)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 112 except 112.945/951/960/961)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 112.945)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 35 Nm (Engine 112.960/961 AMG)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 113.940/941/942/943/944/945/946/948/960/961/962/963/964/965/966/967/968/969/971/980/981/982/984/986/988)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 113.987)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 113.990/991)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 113.992/993/995)


Ensure gasket of cylinder head cover is correctly installed:
{|
|
# Inspect gasket (arrows) of cylinder head cover to ensure it is correctly located in the sealing groove of the cylinder head cover, particularly at the rear of the cylinder head.
|[[File:W220_ensure_gasket_on_cilinder_cover_correctly_installed.png|300px]]
|}

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/5StLcC-RoI0|320|center|W220 - Valve/Breather Covers, Spark Plugs, Coils DIY - PART 1 (By Masood)|frame}}
|}
{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/-ySR9tLAW-s|320|center|W220 - Valve/Breather Covers, Spark Plugs, Coils DIY - PART 2 (By Masood)|frame}}
|}
{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/dSTbh8fDHtc|320|center|W220 - Valve/Breather Covers, Spark Plugs, Coils DIY - PART 3 (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2F5qcmbQT6w|320|left|How to change the Valve Cover Gasket on W220 S500 Mercedes|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzlQj7x_ozk|320|left|Mercedes Benz Valve Cover gasket Replacement Made Easy – Mercedes Benz S Class S500 W220|frame}}
|}

Crankcase ventilation cylinder head cover

2022-06-18T20:37:38Z

Masood:

{|
|[[File:W220_EPC_engine_housing_cylinder_head_cover_v6.png|thumb|none|Parts in [[EPC]] related to engine housing - cylinder head cover (M112 V6 engine)]]
|[[File:W220_EPC_engine_housing_cylinder_head_cover_v8.png|thumb|none|Parts in [[EPC]] related to engine housing - cylinder head cover (M113 V8 engine)]]
|}

== Crankcase ventilation ==

=== Oil leaks ===
Crankcase ventilation cover (engine breather cover) is a very common source for oil leaks on Mercedes M112 V6 and M113 V8 engines. Just pull the top cover off your engine and look. Even cars with low mileage may have oil seeping out the breather covers on the top of the heads. When the oil gets on exhaust manifold, it creates smell that can be felt even in the cabin. Resealing the leaking breather chamber covers on top of engine is easy way to fix oil leak.

This is the job any owner of a 1998 to 2006 Mercedes with a V6 (M112) or a V8 (M113) engine will have to deal with at some point. Doing a proper reseal on these covers is not hard but it is tedious if you don't want them to leak again. This is one job if you want it done right you should consider doing it yourself!

{|
|[[File:W220_engine_breather_cover_oil_leak_M112_left_side.jpg|thumb|none|Breather cover oil leak (M112 - left side)]]
|[[File:W220_engine_breather_cover_oil_leak_M112_right_side.jpg|thumb|none|Breather cover oil leak (M112 - right side)]]
|[[File:W220_engine_breather_cover_oil_leak_M113_left_side.jpg|thumb|none|Breather cover oil leak (M113 - left side)]]
|[[File:W220_engine_breather_cover_oil_leak_M113_right_side.jpg|thumb|none|Breather cover oil leak (M113 - right side)]]
|}

=== Clogged ventilation valve ===
If engine oil is not regularly changed, the ventilation breather valve hole can become clogged which will result in water condensate being accumulated on the top of crankcase and visible on the engine oil cap. Proper cleaning of the milky water residue requires it to be cleaned also from the cylinder head cover. This may be a good moment to also replace the cylinder head cover gaskets.

{|
|[[File:W220_engine_oil_cap_milky_water_residue.jpg|thumb|none|Milky water residue on the engine oil cap (M112 engine)]]
|[[File:W220_engine_head_cover_milky_water_residue.jpg|thumb|none|Milky water residue on the cylinder head cover (M112 engine)]]
|[[File:W220_engine_head_cover_crankcase_ventilation_sealing.jpg|thumb|none|Resealing ventilation breather cover (M112 engine)]]
|}

=== Parts ===

Several parts will be needed for replacement. Several resealing kits are available:
* https://mercedessource.com/store/1998-2006-v6-and-v8-engine-breather-cover-oil-leak-fix-kit
* https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-breather-cover-reseal-kit-m112-m113-oem-m112bcvr

Below are the part numbers for each part.

==== Bolts ====
The 5 original aluminium bolts will have to be replaced with updated stainless steel ones as the old will snap if trying to reuse them.
The replacement stainless steel bolts have a 5 mm hex head rather than a torx head.

The bolts correspond to M5x18 specification and their part number is N000000004436 (~2 EUR/piece).

[[File:N000000004436.jpg|thumb|none|M5x18 bolt (N000000004436)]]

==== Sealant ====
Proper sealant must be used. OEM sealant is Loctite 5970 which is a silicone sealant and cures on exposure to moisture in the air to form a tough rubber gasket. The product is designed primarily for flexible flange sealing. It is ideally used where high vibration or flexing occurs. It is tack-free after just 25 min. The product can be used on machined or cast surfaces, metal, plastic or painted parts.

* A003989982010 50ml (OE) - EUR 26
* Loctite 5970 300ml (OEM) - EUR 18
* Elring Dirko 70ml - EUR 5

{|
|[[File:A003989982010_sealant_compound_50ml.jpg|thumb|none|A003989982010 sealing compound 50ml]]
|[[File:Loctite_SI_5970_sealant_300ml.jpg|thumb|none|Loctite 5970 sealing compound 300ml]]
|[[File:Elring_dirko_sealant_black.jpg|thumb|none|Elring Dirko sealant 70ml]]
|}

==== Cleaner ====
It must be made sure that the sealing surfaces are ABSOLUTELY clean of any dirt, oil, or moisture BEFORE applying the new sealant. Mercedes instructions recommend using Loctite 7200 to remove old pieces of gasket sealant and Loctite 7063 to prepare surface for the new sealant.

{|
|
{|
|
* Loctite 7200 (EUR 15) 400 ml spray - Parts Cleaner - gasket remover. Removes gasket sealants in 10-15 minutes.
Removes all types of chemical gaskets eliminating excessive scraping. Softens chemical gaskets quickly. Will not run, even on vertical surfaces. Removes cured chemical gaskets by softening the gasket material on the flanges, avoiding excessive scraping. Dissolves also sealants, adhesives, carbon deposits, and dried oils. Once applied the product foams, preventing run off from the desired location. Application: Protect painted surfaces, as Gasket Remover attacks the paint. Hold can upright and spray from distance of about 20 - 30 cm onto the flange or surface. Allow 10 - 15 minutes to soften the gasket, for silicone gaskets 30 minutes are necessary. Remove gasket with a soft scraper. Wipe the surface with a rag. Repeat procedure if it is necessary.
|}

{|
|
* Loctite 7063 (EUR 12) 400 ml spray - Parts Cleaner - general purpose. For use prior to bonding and sealing applications. Leaves no residue.
** A001986717110 (EUR 10) 150ml spray
Excellent for surface preparation. High cleaning power. Rapid flash off. Use to prepare surfaces to be bonded. The product flashes off very quickly and it allows cleaning directly prior to adhesive/sealant application. It is non-corrosive and non toxic. Application: Spray a sufficient amount of product on the surface to be cleaned and wipe while still wet to ensure heavy contamination and excess solvent is removed.
|}

|
|[[File:Loctite-sf-7200.jpg|100px]]
|[[File:Loctite-sf-7063.jpg|100px]]
|}

==== Breather hoses ====
Over time the rubber hoses get hard and cannot be removed without breaking. It is therefore recommended to replace 4 hoses and 3 connectors. Connectors are usual in good condition and require no replacement. For some of the hoses FEBI BILSTEIN is OE mananufacturer.

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/_yhebTmn8K8|320|center|W220/W210 Breather Hoses Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

[[File:W220_engine_112_intake_manifold_EPC.png|thumb|none|Parts in [[EPC]] related to intake manifold (Engine 112)]]
{|
|[[File:W220_A1120180182_A1120180282_A1120180382_A1179901578_Part_load_crankcase_ventilation_hoses_connected_together.jpg|thumb|none|A1120180182, A1120180282, A1120180382 hoses joined together]]
|[[File:W220_A1120180482_Full-load_crankcase_ventilation_hose_connected.jpg|thumb|none|A1120180482 hose one side connected to engine air intake cover]]
|}

Engine 112 and 113 (S350/S500):
{|
|[[File:A1120180482_full_load_crankcase_ventilation_hose.jpg|200px]]
|
* A1120180482 (140) - Full-load crankcase ventilation hose - EUR 11
** Trucktec automotive 0218048 - EUR 4
** Topran 407867 - EUR 5
|}
{|
|[[File:A1120180182_part_load_crankcase_ventilation_hose.jpg|200px]]
|
* A1120180182 (146) - Part load crankcase ventilation hose - EUR 9
** Febi bilstein 33850 - EUR 4
** Swag 10933850 - EUR 4
|}
{|
|[[File:A1120180282_part_load_crankcase_ventilation_hose.jpg|200px]]
|
* A1120180282 (152) - Part load crankcase ventilation hose - EUR 6
** Febi bilstein 33851 - EUR 3
** Topran 407865 - EUR 3
|}
{|
|[[File:A1120180382_part_load_crankcase_ventilation_hose.jpg|200px]]
|
* A1120180382 (170) - Part load crankcase ventilation hose - EUR 9
** Febi bilstein 33852 - EUR 3
** Swag 10933852 - EUR 3
|}
{|
|[[File:A1179901578_part_load_crankcase_ventilation_connector.jpg|200px]]
|
* A1179901578 (164) - Part load crankcase ventilation connector x3 - EUR 2
|}

=== Remove/install cover for crankcase ventilation (WIS instruction) ===

ENGINES 112, 113

{|
|Shown on engine 113:
* 1 - Bolts
* 2 - Cover for crankcase ventilation
* 3 - Cylinder head covers
|[[File:W220_crankcase_ventilation2.jpg|300px]]
|}

{|
|Sealant path - Shown on engine 113:
* 2 - Cover for crankcase ventilation
* A - Sealant
* Arrow - Sealant, bolt holes
|[[File:W220_crankcase_ventilation1.jpg|300px]]
|}

Work instructions:
* Aluminum bolts (1). Installation: Install new bolts.
* Clean. When cylinder head covers are installed, cover oil ducts with rags. Do not use any sharp-edged tools or abrasive paper as this will damage the sealing surfaces. Oil channels clogged with sealant will damage the engine. Cleaning materials: Loctite 7200 and Loctite 7063 cleaning spray 150 ml (A001986717110).
* Sealant. Apply a 2.0 mm thick bead of sealant (A), observing the bolt holes (arrow). Do not spread the silicone bead. Process sealant within 10 minutes. To avoid leaks, use only the silicone sealant specified in the repair materials - Loctite 5970 sealant (A0039899820)!

Torque specification:
* Bolt, crankcase ventilation cover to the cylinder head valve cover: 4 Nm (Engine 112 and 113)

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lo_-nrhoRyU|320|left|Mercedes M112 M113 Engine Breather Oil Leak Fix Kit|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m316C8PmCcY|320|left|Mercedes M112 V6, M113 V8 oil breather resealing|frame}}
|}

== Cylinder head cover ==
Cylinder head cover is also popular source for oil leaks on M112 and M113 engines. It is highly recommended to use OE gasket as it provides the best quality and requires no additional sealant.

=== Cylinder head cover gaskets ===

Engine 112 (S350):
* A1120160221 Cylinder head cover gasket (left) - EUR 20
* A1120160321 Cylinder head cover gasket (right) - EUR 20

[[File:W220_gasket_A1120160221_A1120160321.jpg|thumb|none|Engine 112 cylinder head cover gaskets (left and right)]]

Engine 113 (S500):
* A1120160221 Cylinder head cover gasket (left) - EUR 22
* A1120160321 Cylinder head cover gasket (right) - EUR 22

[[File:W220_gasket_A1130160221_A1130160321.jpg|thumb|none|Engine 113 cylinder head cover gaskets (left and right)]]

=== Remove/install cylinder head cover (WIS instruction) ===


{|
|Shown on engine 112.945:
* 1 - Engine cover with integrated air filter
* 2 - Right cylinder head cover
* 3 - Left cylinder head cover
* 4 - Right ignition coils
* 5 - Left ignition coils
* 6 - Right connection
* 7 - Left connection
* 8 - Left connection
|[[File:W220_remove_install_cylinder_head_cover.png|300px]]
|}

Remove/install:
# Remove engine trim panel with integrated air filter (1). Unclip covering on front side of engine. Remove air filter by pulling vertically up and off the cylinder head covers.
# Remove air filter (Model 215.374, 220.074/174)
# Unscrew guide tube for the automatic transmission oil dipstick
# Detach right ignition coils (4), left ignition coils (5) on right cylinder head cover (2) and left cylinder head cover (3). Except engines 112.911/914/915/917/954, Engine 113.969.
# Disconnect spark plug connectors. Installation: Observe marking for spark plug connectors on the cylinder head covers and ignition coils.
# Pull off vent hoses on right connector (6) and on left connector (7) of the right cylinder head cover (2) and left cylinder head cover (3).
# Pull off engine vent hose on left connector (8) of left cylinder head cover (3).
# Disconnect fuel line at fuel rail. Only on vehicles with rigid fuel line and: Model 211.061/065/070/076/276, Model 215.374, Model 220.074, Model 230.474/475. Release fuel pressure through service valve!
# Remove right cylinder head cover (2) and left cylinder head cover (3). Installation: Check cylinder head covers for leaks, see: Ensure cylinder head cover gasket is correctly installed.
# Install in the reverse order
# Check for leaks with engine running

Torque specifications:
* Cylinder head cover bolt: 9 Nm (Engine 112 and 113)
* Bolt, ignition coils to cylinder head cover: 8 Nm (Engine 112 and 113)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 112 except 112.945/951/960/961)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 112.945)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 35 Nm (Engine 112.960/961 AMG)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 113.940/941/942/943/944/945/946/948/960/961/962/963/964/965/966/967/968/969/971/980/981/982/984/986/988)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 113.987)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 113.990/991)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 113.992/993/995)


Ensure gasket of cylinder head cover is correctly installed:
{|
|
# Inspect gasket (arrows) of cylinder head cover to ensure it is correctly located in the sealing groove of the cylinder head cover, particularly at the rear of the cylinder head.
|[[File:W220_ensure_gasket_on_cilinder_cover_correctly_installed.png|300px]]
|}

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/5StLcC-RoI0|320|center|W220/W210 Breather Hoses Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2F5qcmbQT6w|320|left|How to change the Valve Cover Gasket on W220 S500 Mercedes|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzlQj7x_ozk|320|left|Mercedes Benz Valve Cover gasket Replacement Made Easy – Mercedes Benz S Class S500 W220|frame}}
|}

Crankcase ventilation cylinder head cover

2022-06-18T20:35:20Z

Masood:

{|
|[[File:W220_EPC_engine_housing_cylinder_head_cover_v6.png|thumb|none|Parts in [[EPC]] related to engine housing - cylinder head cover (M112 V6 engine)]]
|[[File:W220_EPC_engine_housing_cylinder_head_cover_v8.png|thumb|none|Parts in [[EPC]] related to engine housing - cylinder head cover (M113 V8 engine)]]
|}

== Crankcase ventilation ==

=== Oil leaks ===
Crankcase ventilation cover (engine breather cover) is a very common source for oil leaks on Mercedes M112 V6 and M113 V8 engines. Just pull the top cover off your engine and look. Even cars with low mileage may have oil seeping out the breather covers on the top of the heads. When the oil gets on exhaust manifold, it creates smell that can be felt even in the cabin. Resealing the leaking breather chamber covers on top of engine is easy way to fix oil leak.

This is the job any owner of a 1998 to 2006 Mercedes with a V6 (M112) or a V8 (M113) engine will have to deal with at some point. Doing a proper reseal on these covers is not hard but it is tedious if you don't want them to leak again. This is one job if you want it done right you should consider doing it yourself!

{|
|[[File:W220_engine_breather_cover_oil_leak_M112_left_side.jpg|thumb|none|Breather cover oil leak (M112 - left side)]]
|[[File:W220_engine_breather_cover_oil_leak_M112_right_side.jpg|thumb|none|Breather cover oil leak (M112 - right side)]]
|[[File:W220_engine_breather_cover_oil_leak_M113_left_side.jpg|thumb|none|Breather cover oil leak (M113 - left side)]]
|[[File:W220_engine_breather_cover_oil_leak_M113_right_side.jpg|thumb|none|Breather cover oil leak (M113 - right side)]]
|}

=== Clogged ventilation valve ===
If engine oil is not regularly changed, the ventilation breather valve hole can become clogged which will result in water condensate being accumulated on the top of crankcase and visible on the engine oil cap. Proper cleaning of the milky water residue requires it to be cleaned also from the cylinder head cover. This may be a good moment to also replace the cylinder head cover gaskets.

{|
|[[File:W220_engine_oil_cap_milky_water_residue.jpg|thumb|none|Milky water residue on the engine oil cap (M112 engine)]]
|[[File:W220_engine_head_cover_milky_water_residue.jpg|thumb|none|Milky water residue on the cylinder head cover (M112 engine)]]
|[[File:W220_engine_head_cover_crankcase_ventilation_sealing.jpg|thumb|none|Resealing ventilation breather cover (M112 engine)]]
|}

=== Parts ===

Several parts will be needed for replacement. Several resealing kits are available:
* https://mercedessource.com/store/1998-2006-v6-and-v8-engine-breather-cover-oil-leak-fix-kit
* https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-breather-cover-reseal-kit-m112-m113-oem-m112bcvr

Below are the part numbers for each part.

==== Bolts ====
The 5 original aluminium bolts will have to be replaced with updated stainless steel ones as the old will snap if trying to reuse them.
The replacement stainless steel bolts have a 5 mm hex head rather than a torx head.

The bolts correspond to M5x18 specification and their part number is N000000004436 (~2 EUR/piece).

[[File:N000000004436.jpg|thumb|none|M5x18 bolt (N000000004436)]]

==== Sealant ====
Proper sealant must be used. OEM sealant is Loctite 5970 which is a silicone sealant and cures on exposure to moisture in the air to form a tough rubber gasket. The product is designed primarily for flexible flange sealing. It is ideally used where high vibration or flexing occurs. It is tack-free after just 25 min. The product can be used on machined or cast surfaces, metal, plastic or painted parts.

* A003989982010 50ml (OE) - EUR 26
* Loctite 5970 300ml (OEM) - EUR 18
* Elring Dirko 70ml - EUR 5

{|
|[[File:A003989982010_sealant_compound_50ml.jpg|thumb|none|A003989982010 sealing compound 50ml]]
|[[File:Loctite_SI_5970_sealant_300ml.jpg|thumb|none|Loctite 5970 sealing compound 300ml]]
|[[File:Elring_dirko_sealant_black.jpg|thumb|none|Elring Dirko sealant 70ml]]
|}

==== Cleaner ====
It must be made sure that the sealing surfaces are ABSOLUTELY clean of any dirt, oil, or moisture BEFORE applying the new sealant. Mercedes instructions recommend using Loctite 7200 to remove old pieces of gasket sealant and Loctite 7063 to prepare surface for the new sealant.

{|
|
{|
|
* Loctite 7200 (EUR 15) 400 ml spray - Parts Cleaner - gasket remover. Removes gasket sealants in 10-15 minutes.
Removes all types of chemical gaskets eliminating excessive scraping. Softens chemical gaskets quickly. Will not run, even on vertical surfaces. Removes cured chemical gaskets by softening the gasket material on the flanges, avoiding excessive scraping. Dissolves also sealants, adhesives, carbon deposits, and dried oils. Once applied the product foams, preventing run off from the desired location. Application: Protect painted surfaces, as Gasket Remover attacks the paint. Hold can upright and spray from distance of about 20 - 30 cm onto the flange or surface. Allow 10 - 15 minutes to soften the gasket, for silicone gaskets 30 minutes are necessary. Remove gasket with a soft scraper. Wipe the surface with a rag. Repeat procedure if it is necessary.
|}

{|
|
* Loctite 7063 (EUR 12) 400 ml spray - Parts Cleaner - general purpose. For use prior to bonding and sealing applications. Leaves no residue.
** A001986717110 (EUR 10) 150ml spray
Excellent for surface preparation. High cleaning power. Rapid flash off. Use to prepare surfaces to be bonded. The product flashes off very quickly and it allows cleaning directly prior to adhesive/sealant application. It is non-corrosive and non toxic. Application: Spray a sufficient amount of product on the surface to be cleaned and wipe while still wet to ensure heavy contamination and excess solvent is removed.
|}

|
|[[File:Loctite-sf-7200.jpg|100px]]
|[[File:Loctite-sf-7063.jpg|100px]]
|}

==== Breather hoses ====
Over time the rubber hoses get hard and cannot be removed without breaking. It is therefore recommended to replace 4 hoses and 3 connectors. Connectors are usual in good condition and require no replacement. For some of the hoses FEBI BILSTEIN is OE mananufacturer.

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/_yhebTmn8K8|320|center|W220/W210 Breather Hoses Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

[[File:W220_engine_112_intake_manifold_EPC.png|thumb|none|Parts in [[EPC]] related to intake manifold (Engine 112)]]
{|
|[[File:W220_A1120180182_A1120180282_A1120180382_A1179901578_Part_load_crankcase_ventilation_hoses_connected_together.jpg|thumb|none|A1120180182, A1120180282, A1120180382 hoses joined together]]
|[[File:W220_A1120180482_Full-load_crankcase_ventilation_hose_connected.jpg|thumb|none|A1120180482 hose one side connected to engine air intake cover]]
|}

Engine 112 and 113 (S350/S500):
{|
|[[File:A1120180482_full_load_crankcase_ventilation_hose.jpg|200px]]
|
* A1120180482 (140) - Full-load crankcase ventilation hose - EUR 11
** Trucktec automotive 0218048 - EUR 4
** Topran 407867 - EUR 5
|}
{|
|[[File:A1120180182_part_load_crankcase_ventilation_hose.jpg|200px]]
|
* A1120180182 (146) - Part load crankcase ventilation hose - EUR 9
** Febi bilstein 33850 - EUR 4
** Swag 10933850 - EUR 4
|}
{|
|[[File:A1120180282_part_load_crankcase_ventilation_hose.jpg|200px]]
|
* A1120180282 (152) - Part load crankcase ventilation hose - EUR 6
** Febi bilstein 33851 - EUR 3
** Topran 407865 - EUR 3
|}
{|
|[[File:A1120180382_part_load_crankcase_ventilation_hose.jpg|200px]]
|
* A1120180382 (170) - Part load crankcase ventilation hose - EUR 9
** Febi bilstein 33852 - EUR 3
** Swag 10933852 - EUR 3
|}
{|
|[[File:A1179901578_part_load_crankcase_ventilation_connector.jpg|200px]]
|
* A1179901578 (164) - Part load crankcase ventilation connector x3 - EUR 2
|}

=== Remove/install cover for crankcase ventilation (WIS instruction) ===

ENGINES 112, 113

{|
|Shown on engine 113:
* 1 - Bolts
* 2 - Cover for crankcase ventilation
* 3 - Cylinder head covers
|[[File:W220_crankcase_ventilation2.jpg|300px]]
|}

{|
|Sealant path - Shown on engine 113:
* 2 - Cover for crankcase ventilation
* A - Sealant
* Arrow - Sealant, bolt holes
|[[File:W220_crankcase_ventilation1.jpg|300px]]
|}

Work instructions:
* Aluminum bolts (1). Installation: Install new bolts.
* Clean. When cylinder head covers are installed, cover oil ducts with rags. Do not use any sharp-edged tools or abrasive paper as this will damage the sealing surfaces. Oil channels clogged with sealant will damage the engine. Cleaning materials: Loctite 7200 and Loctite 7063 cleaning spray 150 ml (A001986717110).
* Sealant. Apply a 2.0 mm thick bead of sealant (A), observing the bolt holes (arrow). Do not spread the silicone bead. Process sealant within 10 minutes. To avoid leaks, use only the silicone sealant specified in the repair materials - Loctite 5970 sealant (A0039899820)!

Torque specification:
* Bolt, crankcase ventilation cover to the cylinder head valve cover: 4 Nm (Engine 112 and 113)

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lo_-nrhoRyU|320|left|Mercedes M112 M113 Engine Breather Oil Leak Fix Kit|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m316C8PmCcY|320|left|Mercedes M112 V6, M113 V8 oil breather resealing|frame}}
|}

== Cylinder head cover ==
Cylinder head cover is also popular source for oil leaks on M112 and M113 engines. It is highly recommended to use OE gasket as it provides the best quality and requires no additional sealant.

=== Cylinder head cover gaskets ===

Engine 112 (S350):
* A1120160221 Cylinder head cover gasket (left) - EUR 20
* A1120160321 Cylinder head cover gasket (right) - EUR 20

[[File:W220_gasket_A1120160221_A1120160321.jpg|thumb|none|Engine 112 cylinder head cover gaskets (left and right)]]

Engine 113 (S500):
* A1120160221 Cylinder head cover gasket (left) - EUR 22
* A1120160321 Cylinder head cover gasket (right) - EUR 22

[[File:W220_gasket_A1130160221_A1130160321.jpg|thumb|none|Engine 113 cylinder head cover gaskets (left and right)]]

=== Remove/install cylinder head cover (WIS instruction) ===


{|
|Shown on engine 112.945:
* 1 - Engine cover with integrated air filter
* 2 - Right cylinder head cover
* 3 - Left cylinder head cover
* 4 - Right ignition coils
* 5 - Left ignition coils
* 6 - Right connection
* 7 - Left connection
* 8 - Left connection
|[[File:W220_remove_install_cylinder_head_cover.png|300px]]
|}

Remove/install:
# Remove engine trim panel with integrated air filter (1). Unclip covering on front side of engine. Remove air filter by pulling vertically up and off the cylinder head covers.
# Remove air filter (Model 215.374, 220.074/174)
# Unscrew guide tube for the automatic transmission oil dipstick
# Detach right ignition coils (4), left ignition coils (5) on right cylinder head cover (2) and left cylinder head cover (3). Except engines 112.911/914/915/917/954, Engine 113.969.
# Disconnect spark plug connectors. Installation: Observe marking for spark plug connectors on the cylinder head covers and ignition coils.
# Pull off vent hoses on right connector (6) and on left connector (7) of the right cylinder head cover (2) and left cylinder head cover (3).
# Pull off engine vent hose on left connector (8) of left cylinder head cover (3).
# Disconnect fuel line at fuel rail. Only on vehicles with rigid fuel line and: Model 211.061/065/070/076/276, Model 215.374, Model 220.074, Model 230.474/475. Release fuel pressure through service valve!
# Remove right cylinder head cover (2) and left cylinder head cover (3). Installation: Check cylinder head covers for leaks, see: Ensure cylinder head cover gasket is correctly installed.
# Install in the reverse order
# Check for leaks with engine running

Torque specifications:
* Cylinder head cover bolt: 9 Nm (Engine 112 and 113)
* Bolt, ignition coils to cylinder head cover: 8 Nm (Engine 112 and 113)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 112 except 112.945/951/960/961)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 112.945)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 35 Nm (Engine 112.960/961 AMG)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 113.940/941/942/943/944/945/946/948/960/961/962/963/964/965/966/967/968/969/971/980/981/982/984/986/988)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 113.987)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 113.990/991)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 113.992/993/995)


Ensure gasket of cylinder head cover is correctly installed:
{|
|
# Inspect gasket (arrows) of cylinder head cover to ensure it is correctly located in the sealing groove of the cylinder head cover, particularly at the rear of the cylinder head.
|[[File:W220_ensure_gasket_on_cilinder_cover_correctly_installed.png|300px]]
|}

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2F5qcmbQT6w|320|left|How to change the Valve Cover Gasket on W220 S500 Mercedes|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzlQj7x_ozk|320|left|Mercedes Benz Valve Cover gasket Replacement Made Easy – Mercedes Benz S Class S500 W220|frame}}
|}

Engine air filter

2022-06-18T20:24:05Z

Masood:

== Part numbers ==
For engine [[M112]]/[[M113]]:
* OE A1120940604 (63 EUR)
* Bosch 1457433071 (20 EUR)
* MANN-FILTER C 3698/3-2 (20 EUR)

[[File:W220_engine_air_filter_MANN_C369832.jpg|thumb|none|Engine air filter (MANN C 3698/3-2)]]

== Replacement procedure ==

# Remove black intake tubes by pulling towards front of car.
# Lift black plastic cover with MB logo.
# Lift main engine cover and remove from car.
# Flip over, loosen 4 torx screws on each airbox.
# Remove filter, clean airbox out, and reinstall new filter.
# Hand tighten the torx screws.
# Replace main engine cover making sure its seated on MAF connection gasket
# Push black intake tubes back on.
# Replace front engine cover.

Tip: Use an electric screw driver and a set of torx bits. This way you wont have to spend hours hand tightening all those screws back.

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/UAlS_d9jH_g|320|center|W220 Engine Air Intake Hoses Repair (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/_HjiusDTcvk|320|center|W220 Engine Air Filter Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

WIS 46.30 Power Steering Pump

2022-03-24T21:34:00Z

Masood: /* Power Steering Fluid */

==Description - Power Steering Pump==
Edit required.

==Parts - Power Steering Pump==
Edit required.

==Issues - Power Steering Pump==
Edit required.

==DIY Procedures - Power Steering Pump==
Edit required.

== Power Steering Fluid ==

For power steering at outside temperatures below –25°C, steering fluid confirming to
[https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/345.0_en.html Specification 345.0]
must be used.

This video shows how to flush the power steering fluid on a W220:

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/870FNtgOrV0|320|left|Mercedes W220 Power Steerig Fluid flush By Masood|frame}}
|}

Windshield washing system

2022-03-24T21:30:58Z

Masood:

[[File:W220_windshield_washer_EPC.png|thumb|none|Parts in [[EPC]] related to windshield washing system]]

The windshield washer pump grommet and hoses develop leaks over time. This video shows how to repair the most common leaks cheap, and how to replace the grommet and pump.

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/5j-XxlqBowY|320|left|Mercedes W220 Windshield Washer Leak Repair By Masood|frame}}
|}

Check also the [[headlamp cleaning system]].

== Wash reservoir ==

Option code [[Option codes#875 - HEATED SCREEN WASH SYSTEM|875 - HEATED SCREEN WASH SYSTEM]] offers heated windscreen washer fluid reservoir and washer nozzles, meaning they are better protected against icing up. This allows the windscreen to be cleaned more effectively at low temperatures.

There is an extra line from the engine coolant system into the washer fluid reservoir heating screen washing liquid.
{|
|[[File:W220_heated_screen_wash_reservoir.jpg|thumb|none|Heated screen wash reservoir.]]
|[[File:W220_reservoir_without_heated_screen_wash.jpg|thumb|none|Unheated screen wash reservoir.]]
|}

Parts:
* A1248690072 - cover heated
* A1248690272 - cover not heated

Starter

2022-03-24T21:25:18Z

Masood:

==Starter control, function==


Shown on Engine 111:
{|
|[[File:W220_starter_control_function.png]]
|
* K40/4 - Fuse and relay module, model 202, 208, 210 (starter relay integrated)
* L5 - [[Crankshaft position sensor]]
* M1 - Starter (circuit 50)
* N3/4 - HFM-SFI [HFM] control unit
* N3/10 - ME-SFI control unit (shown)
* N15/3 - ETC control unit
* N65 - Cycling module, model 170 (starter relay integrated)
* S2/1 - Ignition/starter switch
|}

===Task===
After engine start speed is reached, the circuit (circuit 50)
M1 to the solenoid switch of the starter is interrupted.

===Design===
The solenoid switch of the starter is operated not through the
ignition/start switch S2/1, but through the starter relay,
by the engine control unit, when in drive position P or N.

The voltage for the starter relay (coil) is supplied through circuit 87.
The starter relay is actuated by the engine control unit through GND.

''Starter is connected to battery (B+) through front [[fuses|prefuse]]. According to wiring diagram the wire is unfused.''

===Function===
When the ignition/start switch is operated in the start position, the
engine control unit activates an automatic start control.
Once the engine start speed of 400 to 700 rpm is reached,
the engine control unit interrupts the ground actuation to the
starter relay and thus the engine start operation.

Once the engine start operation is initiated, shutting off circuit 50
at the ignition/start switch has no effect. The starter rotates until
the specified start speed is reached, or for about 5 seconds at an
engine temperature of +80 °C, for a maximum of 10 seconds if the
engine is cold.

== Start recognition function==



Shown on engine 119:
{|
|[[File:W220_start_recognition_function.png]]
|
* L5 - Crankshaft position sensor
* N3/10 - ME-SFI control module
* N16/1 - Base module
|}

===Task===
Informing the engine control module that the start operation has
commenced, in order, for example, to activate start quantity control,
start control and post-start enrichment, or to influence the ignition system.

===Design/function===
The engine control module detects engine start from the first speed
signals supplied by the [[crankshaft position sensor]].

== Starter relay ==

When key is turned to start the engine the ignition switch module sends a CAN message to the engine management controller (N3/10) to start the engine; N3/10 then energizes the starter relay that switches power to the motor starter solenoid.

Starter relay (K40/7kL) is located in engine compartment, right rear, inside [[fuses|right front fuse and relay module]].

[[File:W220_starter_relay_location.jpg]]

Simple relay test: locate the starter relay and touch it while someone turns the key to see if you can feel it energizing (clicking).

Relay bypass test: remove the relay and connect the relay sockets #30 and #87 with a wire,
and turn the key on: this should engage the starter motor.
Make sure to remove the jumper wire after the engine has started, otherwise it may damage the starter motor).

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNAU8F-WSdY|320|left|Starter relay diagnosis.|frame}}
|}

== Remove starter, install ==

The complexity of starter removal depends on model (see below for more details):
* In case of [[4Matic]] complete exhaust system has to be removed.
* In case of S400 CDI/S600/S65L AMG right catalytic converter has to be removed.
* In case of S600/S600 PULLMAN front right exhaust system has to be removed.
* In case of S280/S320/S320 CDI/S350/S430/S500 starter can be removed without major problems.

=== S280/S320/S350/S430/S500/S500 PULLMAN ===


Valid for:
* ENGINE 112.922 in MODEL 220.063 ([[S280]])
* ENGINE 112.944 in MODEL 220.065/165 ([[S320]], except [[S320]] CDI)
* ENGINE 113.941 in MODEL 220.070/170 ([[S430]], except [[S430]] [[4Matic]])
* ENGINE 113.960 in MODEL 220.075/175/875 ([[S500]]/S500 PULLMAN, except [[S500]] [[4Matic]])
* ENGINE 112.972 in MODEL 220.067/167 ([[S350]], except [[S350]] [[4Matic]])

{|
|[[File:W220_remove_install_starter.jpg]]
|
* 1 - Electric cable circuit 30
* 2 - Electric cable circuit 50
* 3 - Bolts
* 4 - Nuts
* M1 - Starter
|}

# Turn key in electronic ignition lock EIS into position "0". Key cannot be withdrawn.
# Dismount ground line to the battery.
# Detach lower engine compartment paneling.
# Unscrew bolts (3)
# Unscrew nuts (4) and remove electrical lines (1, 2).
# Take starter (M1) down and out
# When replacing the starter check ring gear on the drive plate for wear and damage. Rotate engine at the crankshaft in direction of rotation.
# Install in the reverse order
# Render electrical system operational
# Read diagnostic trouble code memory and erase

Torque specification:
* Nut of connection of circuit 30 - Nm 14.
* Nut of connection circuit 50 - Nm 6.
* Bolt of starter to crankcase - Nm 42.

==== Removal/installation on S350 ====

Starter is attached to transmission and crankcase with two E14 torx bolts.
Starter can be removed from underneath the vehicle - only plastic shields have to be removed.
Since there is not much space the process is not very convenient but is possible.

{|
|[[File:W220_starter_bolts_to_transmission.jpg|thumb|none|Bolts holding starter to crankcase and transmission.]]
|[[File:W220_starter_look_through_other_hole.jpg|thumb|none|Starter (look through other hole).]]
|[[File:W220_starter_wiring_look_through_other_hole.jpg|thumb|none|Starter (look through yet other hole).]]
|}
{|
|[[File:W220_unscrewing_starter_bolts.jpg|thumb|none|Unscrewing bolts holding starter.]]
|[[File:W220_pulling_out_starter.jpg|thumb|none|Pulling out starter.]]
|[[File:W220_starter_wires.jpg|thumb|none|Starter wires.]]
|}
{|
|[[File:W220_new_starter_installed.jpg|thumb|none|New starter installed.]]
|[[File:W220_new_starter_installed_look_through_other_hole.jpg|thumb|none|New starter installed (look through other hole).]]
|}

=== S600/S65 AMG ===



Valid for:
* ENGINE 275 in MODEL 220 ([[S600]]/[[S65 AMG]])

{|
|[[File:W220_remove_install_starter_S600_1.jpg]]
|
* 1 - Screw
* 2 - Screw
* 3 - Screw
* 4 - Screw
* 5 - Heat shield
* 8 - Three way catalytic converter bracket
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_remove_install_starter_S600_2.jpg]]
|
* 3 - Screw
* 6 - Contact protection
* 7 - Electric line circuit 30
* 8 - Three way catalytic converter bracket
* 9 - Electric cable circuit 50
* M1 - Starter
|}

Removing:
# Detach ground line from battery
# '''Remove right catalytic converter'''
# Remove bolts (1, 2)
# Loosen bolt (3)
# Remove bolt (4) and remove heat shield (5)
# Detach protection against accidental contact (6) and detach electrical line circuit 30 (7).
# Detach electrical line circuit 50 (9)
# Remove bolt (3) and remove catalytic converter (8)
# Remove starter (M1) from below
# When replacing the starter (M1) check ring gear on drive plate for wear and damage. Rotate engine at crankshaft in direction of rotation.

Install:
# Position starter (M1) at crankcase
# Loosely position bolt (3) with catalytic converter bracket (8)
# Connect electrical line circuit 50 (9)
# Connect electrical line circuit 30 (7) and attach protection against accidental contact (6)
# Loosely position bolts (1,2) on the heat shield (5). Pay attention to cable clamp at bolt (1).
# Loosely position bolt (4). Pay attention to heat shield (5).
# Tighten bolts (3, 4)
# Tighten bolts (1, 2) for heat shield (5)
# Install right three way catalytic converter.
# Connect ground cable to battery
# Carry out function check
# Perform basic programming
# Read out fault memory and erase. When the work is complete stored faults must be worked on in the diagnostic trouble code memories and erased. Connect STAR DIAGNOSIS and read out fault memory.

Torque specifications:
* Nut, connection for circuit 30: 14 Nm
* Nut, connection for circuit 50: 6 Nm
* Bolt connecting starter to crankcase: 42 Nm
* Bolt, heat shield to crankcase: 8 Nm

===S600/S600 PULLMAN===



Valid for:
* ENGINE 137.970 in MODEL 220.178/878 ([[S600]]/[[S600 PULLMAN]])

{|
|[[File:W220_remove_starter_install_S600_PULLMAN.jpg]]
|
* 1 - Active body control hydraulic line
* 2 - Bolts
* 3 - Nuts
* 4 - Electric cable circuit 30
* 5 - Electric cable circuit 50
* M1 - Starter
|}

# Dismount ground line to the battery
# Detach lower engine compartment paneling
# '''Remove front right exhaust system'''
# Unscrew bolts of Active Body Control hydraulic line (1)
# Unscrew bolts (2) of starter
# Unscrew nuts (3) and remove electrical lines (4, 5)
# Take starter (M1) down and out
# When replacing the starter (M1) check ring gear on drive plate for wear and damage. Rotate engine at crankshaft in direction of rotation.
# Install in the reverse order
# Perform function check
# Render electrical system operational. Perform basic programming.
# Read out fault memory and erase. When the work is complete stored faults must be worked on in the diagnostic trouble code memories and erased. Connect STAR DIAGNOSIS and read out fault memory.

Torqure specifications:
* Nut, connection for circuit 30: 14 Nm
* Nut, connection for circuit 50: 6 Nm
* Bolt of starter to crankcase: 42 Nm

===(S350/S430/S500)===

This video shows how to remove the Starter from a W220:

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/2lrYYx6HK-c|320|center|W220 Starter Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

===4Matic (S350/S430/S500)===


Valid for:
* ENGINE 112 in MODEL 220.087/187 ([[S350]] [[4Matic]])
* ENGINE 113 in MODEL 220.083/183 ([[S430]] [[4Matic]]), 220.084/184 ([[S500]] [[4Matic]])

{|
|[[File:W220_remove_install_starter_4matic_1.jpg]]
|
* 1 - Exhaust shielding plate for propeller shaft of front axle gear
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_remove_install_starter_4matic_2.jpg]]
|
* 2 - Mounting clip
* 3 - Electric cable circuit 30
* 4 - Cap
* 5 - Electric cable circuit 50
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_remove_install_starter_4matic_3.jpg]]
|
* 6 - Bolts
* M1 - Starter
|}

# Disconnect ground line from battery
# Detach lower engine compartment paneling
# '''Remove complete exhaust system'''
# Detach heat shield to steering gear
# Dismount exhaust shielding plate (1) for propeller shaft front axle gear
# Detach mounting clamp (2) of electrical line circuit 50 (5) at choke housing
# Detach cap (4) from electrical line circuit 50 (5)
# Unscrew nut of electrical line circuit 50 (5) at starter (M1)
# Unscrew nut of electrical line circuit 30 (3) at starter (M1)
# Remove bolts (6)
# Remove starter (M1) from the rear via the rack-and-pinion steering
# Check ring gear on drive plate for wear and damage. Only when replacing starter. Rotate engine at crankshaft in the direction of rotation of engine.
# Install in the reverse order
# Carry out function check
# Perform basic programming
# Read out fault memory and erase. When the work is complete stored faults must be worked on in the diagnostic trouble code memories and erased. Connect STAR DIAGNOSIS and read out fault memory.

Torqure specifications:
* Nut, connection for circuit 30: 14 Nm
* Nut, connection for circuit 50: 6 Nm
* Bolt connecting starter to crankcase: 42 Nm

=== S320 CDI (1999-2002) ===


Valid for:
* ENGINE 613.960 in MODEL 220.026 ([[S320]] CDI)

{|
|[[File:W220_Remove_install_starter_S320_CDI_1.jpg]]
|
* 1 - Electric line circuit 30
* 2 - Electric cable circuit 50
* 3 - Bolts
* M1 - Starter
|}

# Disconnect ground line from battery
# Remove center and rear bottom sections of soundproofing
# Remove protective cap and detach electrical lines (1,2).
# Remove bolt (3)
# Remove starter (M1) from below
# When replacing the starter (M1) check ring gear on drive plate for wear and damage. Rotate engine at crankshaft in direction of rotation.
# Install in the reverse order
# Carry out function check
# Render electrical system operational. Perform basic programming.
# Read out fault memory and erase. When the work is complete stored faults must be worked on in the diagnostic trouble code memories and erased. Connect STAR DIAGNOSIS and read out fault memory.

Torqure specifications:
* Bolt connecting starter to crankcase: 42 Nm
* Nut, connection for circuit 30: 14 Nm
* Nut, connection for circuit 50: 6 Nm

===S320 CDI (2003-2006)===


Valid for:
* ENGINE 648 in MODEL 220 ([[S320]] CDI 2003-2006)

{|
|[[File:W220_Remove_install_starter_S320_CDI_2.jpg]]
|
* 1 - Terminal 30
* 2 - Terminal 50
* 3 - Bracket
* 4 - Bottom bolt
* M1 - Starter
|}

# Remove bottom section of soundproofing
# Disconnect circuit 30 (1)
# Disconnect circuit 50 (2)
# Detach bracket (3)
# Remove bottom bolt (4). Insert a long extension at rear engine mount via transmission to loosen upper bolt.
# Take starter (M1) down and out
# Install in the reverse order
# Read out fault memory. Connect STAR DIAGNOSIS and read out fault memory.
# Perform basic programming

Torqure specifications:
* Bolt connecting starter to crankcase: 42 Nm
* Nut, connection for circuit 30: 14 Nm
* Nut, connection for circuit 50: 6 Nm

=== S400 CDI ===


Valid for:
* ENGINE 628.960 in MODEL 220.028 ([[S400]] CDI)

{|
|[[File:W220_Remove_install_starter_S400_CDI_1.jpg]]
|
* 1 - Bottom charge air pipe
* 2 - Electric cable circuit 50
* 3 - Terminal 30 cable
* M1 - Starter
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_Remove_install_starter_S400_CDI_2.jpg]]
|
* 4 - Bolt
|}

# Disconnect ground cable from battery
# Remove bottom sections of soundproofing
# Lower front axle carrier
# Remove fan shroud
# '''Remove right catalytic converter'''
# Remove bottom right charge air pipe (1). Do not detach bottom charge air pipe (1) from charge air hose. Place released bottom charge air pipe (1) only to the side. Installation: Attach bottom charge air pipe (1) with new sealing ring to the turbocharger.
# Remove protective cap and dismount electrical line circuit 50 (2) and electrical line circuit 30 (3) at starter (M1)
# Unscrew bolts (4) of starter (M1)
# Take starter (M1) down and out
# When replacing the starter check ring gear on the drive plate for wear and damage. Rotate engine at torque converter in direction of rotation of engine.
# Install in reverse order
# Perform function check
# Make electrical system ready for operation. Perform basic programming.
# Read out fault memory. Connect STAR DIAGNOSIS and read out fault memory.

Torqure specifications:
* Nut, connection for circuit 30: 14 Nm
* Nut, connection for circuit 50: 6 Nm
* Bolt connecting starter to crankcase: 42 Nm

== Parts ==
{| class="wikitable"
! Part No.
! Notes
|-
|A0061510501
|For [[S350]]. From Date: 30/10/2003. Voltage: 12V, Kilowatt: 1.4kW, Rotation: CW, Teeth: 10T. Borg & Beck part number: BST2087. Bosch part numbers: 0986021280, 0001108404, 0001108403.
|-
|A0051516501
|For [[S350]]. To Date: 30/10/2003. Voltage: 12V, Kilowatt: 1.4kW, Rotation: CW, Teeth: 10T. Bosch part numbers: 0986019507, 0986019500, 0001108197.
|-
|A0061510601
|For [[S430]]/[[S500]]. From Date: 30/10/2003. Voltage: 12V, Kilowatt: 1.7kW, Rotation: CW, Teeth: 10T. Bosch part numbers: 0986021290, 0001108213.
|-
|A1121510001
|For [[S430]]/[[S500]]. To Date: 30/10/2003. Voltage: 12V, Kilowatt: 1.7kW, Rotation: CW, Teeth: 10T. Bosch part numbers: 0001115005, 0001115004, 0001108213, BX1789, 0986017890.
|-
|N910105010044
|Bolt M10X90. Starter to crankcase and transmission.
|}

Parking brake

2022-01-04T22:26:14Z

Masood:

==Description - Parking Brake==

When parked on an incline, gear shift position P alone may not prevent your vehicle from moving, possibly hitting people or objects.
Always set the parking brake in addition to shifting to position P.
'''TIP''': On steep slopes, turn the front wheels towards the curb.

[[File:W220_parking_brake_operators_manual.png|300px]]

# Parking brake pedal
# Parking brake release handle

Step firmly on parking brake 1.

When the engine is running, the indicator lamp in the instrument cluster illuminates.

Release the parking brake by pulling handle 2.

The indicator lamp in the instrument cluster goes out.

== Part numbers ==

[[File:W220_foot_operated_parking_bake_epc.png|thumb|none|Parking brake-related parts in [[EPC]]]]

== Friction brake pedal assembly / parking brake ==


{|
|
* 1 - Brake drum
* 2 - Band spring
* 3 - Gearing
* 4 - Notch
* 6 - Spring
* 71 - Pedal assembly
* 75 - Brake pedal
|[[File:W220_parking_brake_pedal_assembly.png|400px]]
|}

Brake pedal (75) holds the parking brake in the pressed position and avoids loose knock.

A brake drum (1) is cast into the brake pedal (75).
A pre-compressed flat spiral spring (2) is wound around this drum (1).
The flat spiral spring is pre-compressed by a spring (6).
If the brake pedal (75) is pressed, the force of friction of the flat spiral spring (2)
continuously holds the brake pedal (75).
When the pedal is pressed the familiar adjusting noise is passed on via the toothing (3) and the notch (4).

== Parking brake pedal assembly modified ==

{|
|
Phased in as of approx. 09/2002 a modified design of parking brake pedal systems (1) have been fitted.
The new version of the pedal assembly (1) has a pulled notch (2a) instead of a pushed notch (2b) as previously.
This results in different values for the adjustment of the parking brake.
On account of the successive production launch and the possibility that in the case of repair, that old replaces new or new
replaces old, on '''each''' vehicle, the version of the pedal assembly (1) is determined before the parking brake is adjusted.
|[[File:W220_parking_brake_assembly_modified_1.jpg|400px]]
|}

{|
|
The new and previous version can be distinguished by the position of the shaft journal (3) in the pedal lever (4).
Moreover the notches (2a, 2b) differ in color.
* A - Late type: The shaft journal (3) of detent (2a) is mounted offset from the pedal lever center. Color of notch (2a): light gray
* B - Previous version: The shaft journal (3) of the notch (2b) is mounted centrally in the pedal lever (4). Color of notch (2b): black
|[[File:W220_parking_brake_assembly_modified_2.jpg|400px]]
|}

== Remove/install parking brake pedal assembly ==


[[File:W220_remove_parking_brake_pedal_assembly.png]]
[[File:W220_remove_parking_brake_pedal_assembly2.jpg]]

# Raise vehicle with vehicle lift
# Preload automatic slack adjuster (92)
# Remove screw (93) from intermediate lever (91) of automatic cable slack adjuster (92)
# Remove left cover below dashboard
# Remove front left floor covering
# Loosen clamps (arrows) and remove cover (76) of pedal assembly (71). Rear clamp only accessible when the defroster vent with trim ring is removed.
# Unhook brake cable (85) from tensioning shackle on parking brake pedal (75) and unclip from pedal assembly (71). Installation: Check that rubber ring (85c) is correctly seated.
# Remove bolts (72) and take off pedal assembly (71). Push pedal assembly (71) inwards slightly and remove from cover (76a). Do not loosen Torx bolts on the back of the pedal assembly (71), otherwise the pedal assembly (71) will be damaged beyond repair.
# Detach control cable (79) for releasing parking brake. To do so, remove bracket (77a) and unhook cable (79) from release lever (77). Unclip control cable (79) from pedal assembly (71) using tool (010).
# Install in the reverse order
# Slacken automatic cable slack adjuster (92)
# Check version of pedal assembly (71)
# Operate parking brake pedal (75) several times and check pedal travel of parking brake pedal (75). If the pedal travel is not within the tolerance range: Adjust parking brake.

Torque specifications:
* Bolt, foot-operated parking brake pedal assembly at front wall pillar: Nm 12

== Adjusting parking brake ==


[[File:W220_adjusting_parking_brake.png]]
[[File:W220_Adjust_the_parking_brake_shoes.JPG|380px|]]
[[File:W220_Internal_View_of_Parking_Brake_Thumbwheel.JPG|355px]]

# Check version of parking brake pedal assembly ''(pulled vs pushed detent)''
# Operate parking brake pedal and check pedal travel of parking brake pedal. If the pedal travel is not within the tolerance range, adjust parking brake.
# Lift vehicle with lifting platform until the wheels are clear
# Pre-tension automatic cable slack adjuster
# Remove rear wheels. ''For reference, observe how freely the rotor turns while turning it by hand.''
# ''Rotate the right side wheel so that the access hole (any wheel bolt hole) is positioned at 11:00 o’clock position to provide access to the parking brake thumbwheel (ratchet mechanism). For the left side wheel the access hole (wheel bolt hole) is positioned at the 1:00 o’clock position.''
# ''Shine a flashlight into the hole (or use a video inspection camera) to see what the tooth of the thumbwheel inside looks like.''
# Using a suitable tool ''(flat blade screwdriver)'', turn the adjusting wheel (105) until the brake shoes touch the brake drum and the rear wheel no longer turns. ''(Do about two turns and turn the rotor to see if there is a slight resistance turning the rotors.)'' Adjustment direction for applying the brake shoes turn the adjusting wheel (105) from the bottom upwards. ''The adjustment direction depends on the direction the thumbwheel (ratchet mechanism) has been installed.''
# Turn back the adjusting wheel (105) until the rear wheel can be turned completely freely. When slackening the adjusting wheels ensure that both sides are turned back by the same number of teeth (10 teeth).
# Relieve load on automatic cable slack adjuster.
# Actuate parking brake pedal several times
# Check that the rear wheels can turn freely
# Mount rear wheels

* Actuating force on parking brake pedal: N 170 (-50/+70)
* Notches through which the parking brake pedal must be depressed: 1 (pedal assembly with pulled dent)
* Notches through which the parking brake pedal must be depressed: 5 (pedal assembly with pushed detent)

=== Automatic slack adjuster===
The parking brake cable automatic tensioning mechanism is located underneath the car.
Part no A2204200038 (~55 EUR).
{|
|[[File:W220_parking_brake_automatic_slack_adjuster.jpg|thumb|none|Slack adjuster pretensioned (underneath vehicle)]]
|[[File:W220_parking_brake_adjuster_A2204200038_underneath_view.jpg|thumb|none|Automatic slack adjuster (underneath view)]]
|[[File:W220_parking_brake_adjuster_A2204200038_top_view.jpg|thumb|none|Automatic slack adjuster (top view)]]
|}

==== Pre-tension automatic cable slack adjuster ====

{|
|[[File:W220_pretention_automatic_cable_slack_adjustment.png|thumb|none|Adjuster almost pretensioned (underneaeth view)]]
|[[File:W220_parking_brake_adjuster_pretensioned.jpg|thumb|none|Adjuster pretentsioned (locked by clip)]]
|}

Turn detent eccentric bolt (g) to the left using the Allen wrench (approximately half a turn)
and simultaneously push backwards in slot until the spring-loaded detent eccentric (b)
engages with the raised section (h) in the holddown clip (d).

''Pretensioning spring-loaded slack adjuster releases any tension in the parking brake cables and the cables may even be taken off the tensioning mechanism if required. It can take a while to succeed. The trick is to rotate the detent eccentric bolt (g) counter clockwise (when viewed from underneath) and simultaneously push backwards to rear of vehicle (don't push it fully otherwise it will block against the other side and will not rotate) until it clicks into place into the hold down clip spring (d). It takes full turn to rotate fully relieved adjuster to pretensioned state.

'''Note: It may be much faster and easier to remove the adjuster off the vehicle, pretension it by hands and put back on. To remove the adjuster, remove 11mm bolt holding the cable that goes to the brake pedal.'''

==== Relieve load on automatic slack adjuster ====

{|
|[[File:W220_Relieve_load_on_automatic_slack_adjuster.png|thumb|Adjuster pretensioned (top view)]]
|[[File:W220_parking_brake_adjuster_fully_relieved.jpg|thumb|none|Adjuster fully relieved (side view)]]
|}

Lift center holddown clip (arrow) using a screwdriver so that the cable slack adjuster sets itself automatically.

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5aH0iRlKHI|320|left|Parking brake automatic cable slack adjustment.|frame}}
|}

If after the adjustment the hand brake is still very weak, make sure that the expansion locks on both sides are not rusted and seized (see below). If they do not move freely, they should be cleaned and greased.

{|
|[[File:W220_rear_brake_shoes_expansion_lock_seized_installed.jpg|thumb|none|Seized expansion lock]]
|[[File:W220_rear_brake_shoes_expansion_lock_seized_removed.jpg|thumb|none|Seized expansion lock removed]]
|[[File:W220_rear_brake_shoes_expansion_lock_seized_moving.jpg|thumb|none|Seized expansion lock broken free]]
|}

== Remove/install brake shoes of parking brake ==


For parts see [[brakes]] page.

{|
|
* 040 - Removal and installation tool
* 041 - Installation tool
* 68 - Rear axle shaft flange
* 103 - Brake shoes
* 104 - Thrust piece
* 105 - Adjusting mechanism
* 107 - Retaining springs
* 109 - Expansion lock
* 110 - Cap
* 111 - Lower retracting spring
* 112 - Upper retracting spring
* c - Thumbwheel
|[[File:W220_replace_brake_shoes_parking_brake.jpg]]
|}

# Remove rear wheels
# Remove brake disks on rear axle
# Preloading automatic cable slack adjuster
# Detach lower retracting spring (111) using removal and installation tool (040). Installation: Ensure that the lower retracting spring (111) is seated correctly!
# Remove retaining springs (107) with installation tool (041). Installation: Pay attention to correct seat of retaining springs (107).
# Remove brake shoes (103) over rear axle shaft flange (68). If brakes shoes (103) are burnt or brake disk surfaces are damaged, replace brake shoes (103), lower and upper retracting springs (111, 112), retaining springs (107) and brake disks. Installation: Turn back adjusting mechanism (105) and insert into both brake shoes (103) with the adjusting wheel (c) pointing toward front of vehicle.
# Detach upper retracting spring (112). Installation: Ensure that the upper retracting spring (112) is seated correctly! Lightly grease thread of thrust piece (104) and cylindrical part of adjustment wheel (c) with MB long-life grease.
# Remove expansion lock (109). Installation: Lightly grease all bearing and slide surfaces on expansion lock (109) with MB long-life grease.
# Install in the reverse order
# Release automatic slack adjuster
# Check version of pedal assembly
# Adjust parking brake

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=701a6h3nLE4|320|left|Mercedes W210 Parking Brake Shoe Replacement|frame}}
|}

Alternative instruction:
#Unload Parking Brake Automatic Cable Slack Adjuster See below.
#Take off the rear wheel, observe how freely the rotor turns while turning it by hand.
#Rotate the right side wheel so that the access hole (any wheel bolt hole) is positioned at 11:00 o’clock position to provide access to the parking brake thumbwheel (ratchet mechanism). (For the left side wheel the access hole (wheel bolt hole) is positioned at the 1:00 o’clock position.
#Note the correct angle for the wide bladed screw driver tip.
#Shine a flashlight into the hole (or use a video inspection camera) to see what the tooth of the thumbwheel inside looks like.
#Insert a flat blade screwdriver through the hole and catch between two teeth.
#Adjust the parking brake shoes to provide maximum clearance. The next Figure shows an the internal View of Parking Brake Thumbwheel. This is what you are trying to do.
#Rotate the parking brake thumbwheel (ratchet mechanism) downwards (screw driver handle upwards) to release the brake to its maximum clearance.
#Remove the Torx screw holding brake disk to rear axle shaft flange.
#Remove the Brake Disk to gain access to the parking brake mechanisms. '''TIP''': If you haven’t previously used anti-seize grease on the hub you may have to tap the disc with a rubber mallet.
#Remove the Parking Brake Lower Retracting Spring. This requires a fair bit of effort but it is possible with normal 45º long nose pliers.
#Remove the Brake Shoe Retaining Springs. Remove the two rear brake shoe retaining springs by pushing them inwards and twisting 90º.
#Note the Retaining Springs Alignment for Re-installation. '''TIP''': The installed position of the retaining springs is such that the hook end is facing radially inwards and pointing directly at the centre of the wheel hub.
#Remove the Parking Brake Shoes and Adjusting Mechanism over the Wheel Hub.
#Note the Orientation of the Parking Brake Adjusting Thumbwheel. '''TIP''': The thrust piece (shorter length) is towards the front of the vehicle on both sides. The next Figure shows the right side wheel.
#:The diagram in WIS shows the left side wheel with the thrust piece (c) (shorter length) on the left facing towards the front of the vehicle.
#Store the Parking Brake. '''TIP''': Store the parking brake out of the way maintaining the correct positioning for each component to aid in re-installation.
#Remove the Parking Brake Expansion Lock. '''TIP''': Carefully remove the parking brake expansion lock (actuating mechanism) and note the orientation. The hooked end of the Expansion Lock (109) is towards the front of the vehicle on both sides. The next Figure shows the right side wheel.
#: WIS shows the left side wheel.
#Remove the Parking Brake Cable. '''TIP''': Remove the bolt and withdraw the parking brake cable and place out of the way.
#Reinstall in reverse order remembering to Preload Brake Automatic Cable Slack Adjuster. See below.

{|
|[[File:W220_Remove_Rear_Brake_Disk.JPG|thumb|none]]
|[[File:W220_tap_the_disc_with_a_rubber_mallet.JPG|thumb|none]]
|[[File:W220_Remove_the_Parking_Brake_Lower_Retracting_Spring.JPG|thumb|none]]
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_Remove_the_Brake_Shoe_Retaining_Springs.JPG|thumb|none]]
|[[File:W220_Retaining_Springs_Alignment.JPG|thumb|none]]
|[[File:W220_Orientation_of_the_RH_Parking_Brake_Adjusting_Thumbwheel.JPG|thumb|none]]
|}
{|
|[[File: W220_Parking_Brake_Shoes_and_Adjusting_Mechanism.JPG|thumb|none]]
|[[File:W220_RH_Parking_Brake_Expansion_Lock.JPG|thumb|none]]
|[[File:W220_Remove_the_Parking_Brake_Cable.JPG|thumb|none]]
|}
[[File:W220_rear_brake_shoes_replaced.jpg|thumb|none|]]

== Parking/Emergency Brake Pedal Not Sticking ==

This is a simple fix where the latch or hook comes off loose. Instead of a costly bill to replace the entire brake assembly, simply just move the latch back to its place. This procedure applies to many Mercedes Benz models and is not limited to the W220.

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/-HJOIEUbzKQ|320|left|Mercedes W220 Parking Brake Pedal Not Sticking By Masood|frame}}
|}

Brakes

2022-01-04T22:17:33Z

Masood:

== Front brakes ==

[[File:W220_front_wheel_brake_epc.png|thumb|none|Front brake-related parts in [[EPC]]]]

=== Front disk brake rotor ===
Front brake disks on vehicles with M113 engines (S430/S500) are larger and thicker compared to vehicles with M112 engines (S280/S320/S500).
{|
|
S500/S430:
* OE A2204212512 (135 EUR)
* ATE 24.0132-0115.1 (75 EUR/piece)
* TRW DF4148S (58 EUR/piece)

[[File:W220_front_brake_disk_TRW_DF4148S.jpg|thumb|none|TRW DF4148S brake disk (32mm thick, 330mm diameter)]]
|
S280/S320/S350:
* OE A2204210912 (135 EUR)
* ATE 24.0128-0125.1 (69 EUR/piece)
* TRW DF4149S (56 EUR/piece)
[[File:W220_front_brake_disk_TRW_DF4149S.jpg|thumb|none|TRW DF4149S brake disk (28mm thick, 312mm diameter)]]
|}

=== Front disk brake pads ===
Brake pads are sold in pairs (for both sides).
* OE A0044209020 (112 EUR)
* ATE 13.0470-4990.2 (67 EUR)
* TRW GDB1543DTE (50 EUR)

[[File:W220_front_brake_pads_TRW_GDB1543DTE.jpg|thumb|none|TRW GDB1543DTE brake pads]]

=== Accessory kit ===
In case brake pads are changed after several years, the spring bolts become seized and to remove them they have to be bent and broken out (see photo below).
When buying brake accessory kit, make sure to purchase spring that has bolt anchors (e.g., kit by ATE) to prevent spring from slipping off the bolts (see photos below).

{|
|[[File:W220_front_brake_removing_seized_spring_bolts.jpg|thumb|none|Removing seized spring bolts]]
|[[File:W220_front_brake_spring_slipped.jpg|thumb|none|Brake spring slipped off the bolts]]
|[[File:W220_front_brake_spring_attached.jpg|thumb|none|Brake spring with bolt anchors]]
|}

Part numbers:
* Spring - A0004217891 (replaced by A0004219791) (14 EUR)
* Bolts - A0019915160 (12 EUR)
* Kit - ATE 13.0460-0237.2 (9 EUR)
{|
|[[File:W220_front_brakes_accessory_kit_ATE.jpg|thumb|none|ATE 13.0460-0237.2 accessory kit]]
|[[File:W220_front_brakes_accessory_kit_ATE_13.0460-0237.2.jpg|thumb|none|ATE 13.0460-0237.2 accessory kit]]
|}

=== Front dust shield ===
It is common for the dust shield (also known as a protective plate) to rust in the bolt holes resulting in the dust shield touching disk rotor.
The original dust shields are quote expensive, unfortunately, aftermarket dust shields for the front axle are not available in the market.

{|
|[[File:W220_front_dust_shield_rusted_bolt_holes_fixed.jpg|thumb|none|Rusted bolt holes fixed by installing large washers]]
|}

Part numbers:
* OE left: A2204200444 (124 EUR)
* OE right: A2204200544 (88 EUR)

{|
|[[File:W220_dust_shield_front_left_A2204200444.jpg|thumb|none|Dust shield front left (A2204200444)]]
|}

=== Remove/install brake disc (front axle) ===


{|
|
* 61 - Brake disk
* 63 - Security bolt
|[[File:W220_remove_install_brake_disk.jpg]]
|}

Remove/install:
# Remove wheels
# Check brake lining thickness and brake disks (61). Inspect condition of brake disks. Check brake lining thickness. Only replace brake pads and brake disks (61) in complete sets if necessary. If the brake pads have worn down to beyond the wear limit, the bar between the sealing groove and dust cap may be damaged; therefore: Inspect brake system for leaks with pressure tester.
# Remove brake disk. Do not detach brake hose, instead attach brake caliper to vehicle so that it is free of tension. Do not kink or tension brake hose, as otherwise it will be damaged.
# Remove locking bolt (64) and remove brake disk (61). Installation: Replace securing bolt (64)

Clean:
# Clean contact surfaces and seat of brake disk (61) if necessary.
# Lightly grease seat of brake disk (61) using Hot lubricating paste.
# Install in the reverse order

Checking:
# Carry out brake test on the test stand

Torque specifications:
* Locking bolt of rear/front axle brake disk: Nm 10

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/rmuuIm0FkkU|320|center|W220 Front Brake Rotors Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

== Rear brakes ==

[[File:W220_rear_wheel_brake_epc.png|thumb|none|Rear brake-related parts in [[EPC]]]]

=== Rear disk brake rotor ===
Note that for vehicles with M113 V8 engine (S500/S430) the rear caliper is around 1cm wider than on vehicles with M112 V6 engine (S350), therefore the rear disk rotor for M113 V8 engine is 22mm thick, while for M112 V6 engine only 11m.
{|
|
S500/S430:
* OE A2204230212 (120 EUR)
* TRW DF4437 (42 EUR/piece)

[[File:W220_rear_disk_rotors_TRW_DF4437.jpg|thumb|none|TRW DF4437 brake disk (22mm thick)]]
|
S350:
* OE A2204230112 (114 EUR)
* TRW DF4436 (36 EUR/piece)

[[File:W220_rear_disk_rotors_TRW_DF4436.jpg|thumb|none|TRW DF4436 brake disk (11mm thick)]]
|}

=== Rear disk brake pads ===
Brake pads are sold in pairs (for both sides).
* OE A0034205120 (87 EUR)
* TRW GDB1546DTE (35 EUR)

[[File:W220_Rear_brake_pads_Trw_GDB1546DTE.jpg|thumb|none|TRW GDB1546DTE brake pads]]

=== Brake shoes ===
For installation instructions see [[parking brake]] page.

Part numbers (set for both sides):
* OE - A2204200520 (87 EUR)
* Ate 03.0137-4016.2 (35 EUR) - comes with springs
* TRW GS8482 (30 EUR)

[[File:W220_brake_shoes_Ate_03013740162.jpg|thumb|none|Brake shoes (Ate 03.0137-4016.2)]]

==== Brake shoe extension springs ====
Part numbers (number of pieces for both sides):
* Extension spring, brake shoe pull-back (x2) - A2104230092, FEBI BILSTEIN 02105 (0.23 EUR)
* Extension spring, brake shoe pull-back (x2) - A2014230692 (replaced by A1714230092), FEBI BILSTEIN 02104 (0.71 EUR)
* Extension spring, brake shoes to cover plates (x4) - A2014230592, FEBI BILSTEIN 02103 (0.24 EUR)

{|
|[[File:W220_A2104230092_brake_shoe_pull-back.jpg|thumb|none|Brake shoe pull-back (A2104230092)]]
|[[File:W220_A2014230692_A1714230092_brake_shoe_pull-back.jpg|thumb|none|Brake shoe pull-back (A2014230692)]]
|[[File:W220_A2014230592_brake_shoes_to_cover_plates.jpg|thumb|none|Brake shoes to cover plates (A2014230592)]]
|}

==== Brake shoe expansion lock ====
Part numbers (set for both sides):
* OE - A2014200589 (13 EUR)
* ATE 03.0137-9704.2 (6 EUR)
{|
|[[File:W220_brake_shoe_expanshion_lock_Ate_03013797042.jpg|thumb|none|Brake shoe expansion lock (ATE 03.0137-9704.2)]]
|[[File:W220_brake_shoe_expansion_lock_ATE_03.0137-9704.2.jpg|thumb|none|Brake shoe expansion lock (ATE 03.0137-9704.2)]]
|[[File:W220_new_brake_shoe_expansion_lock_mounted.jpg|thumb|none|Brake shoe expansion lock mounted]]
|}

=== Rear dust shield ===
{|
|
Part numbers (left):
* OE left: A2204230420 (96 EUR)
* A.b.s. 11320 (30 EUR)
* METZGER 6115177 (20 EUR)
* Triscan 812523214 (23 EUR)
* Nk 233342 (26 EUR)
|
Part numbers (right):
* OE right: A2204230520 (125 EUR)
* A.b.s. 11321 (30 EUR)
* METZGER 6115178 (20 EUR)
* Triscan 812523215 (23 EUR)
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_dust_shield_rear_left_A2204230420.jpg|thumb|none|Dust shield rear left (A2204230420)]]
|[[File:W220_rear_dust_shields_Metzger.jpg|thumb|none|Rear durst shields left and right (METZGER)]]
|}

The dust shield is attached to the wheel carrier using two E10 (A2204230071) and two 13mm (A2204230371) bots.
{|
|[[File:W220_A2204230071_dust_shield_bolt_E10.jpg|thumb|none|Bolt E10 M6x12 (A2204230071)]]
|[[File:W220_A2204230371_dust_shield_bolt_13mm.jpg|thumb|none|Bolt 13mm M8x12 (A2204230371)]]
|}

Removal of two E10 bolts may be challenging if the heads for the bolts are rusted. Access through the wheel hub is angled, hence it may be required to hammer on E10 socket to get grip. The original E10 bolts can be replaced with standard M6x12 bolts. To mount a new dust shield without removing wheel bearing (overly complex job), the dust shield has to be cut in two places and pushed over wheel hub (see below). The cut can be welded or glued using, e.g., Kafuter A+B glue. The cut will not be visible as it will be covered by brake caliper.

{|
|[[File:W220_rear_dust_shield_E10_bolt_removal.jpg|thumb|none|Removal of rear dust shield E10 bolt]]
|[[File:W220_mounting_rear_right_dust_shield_cut.jpg|thumb|none|Mounting cut rear right dust shield]]
|[[File:W220_rear_right_dust_shield_welded_glued.jpg|thumb|none|Rear right dust shield glued back together]]
|[[File:W220_new_rear_dust_shield_with_brake_shoes_mounted.jpg|thumb|none|Rear right dust shield with brake shoes mounted]]
|}

=== Rear axle wiring ===

[[File:W220_rear_axle_wiring.png|thumb|none|Rear axle wiring]]

The rear brake pad wear sensor is the same part as for the front. The sensor attaches to the rear right inner brake pad.
[[File:W220_brake_pad_wear_sensor_A2205400717.jpg|thumb|none|Brake pad wear sensor (A2205400717)]]

The wear sensor wiring bracket (A2205460843) is attached to the rear right dust shield.

[[File:W220_A2205460843_rear_right_wear_indicator_bracket.jpg|thumb|none|Rear right wear indicator wiring bracket (A2205460843)]]

The rear wear indicator wire is attached to the right caliper using E10 torx bolt (N91014300600).
[[File:W220_N910143006002_brake_wear_indicator_bolt.jpg|thumb|none|Rear right wear indicator bolt M6x20 (N91014300600)]]

=== Rear brake caliper ===

==== Repair kit ([[facelift]]) ====

Guide sleeve kit:
* OE A0004200776 (20 EUR)
* ATE 11010142022 (8 EUR)

{|
|[[File:W220_rear_brake_caliper_guide_sleeve_kit_A0004200776.jpg|thumb|none|Guide sleeve kit A0004200776]]
|[[File:W220_rear_brake_caliper_guide_sleeve_kit_ATE_11.0101-4202.2.jpg|thumb|none|Guide sleeve kit ATE 11.0101-4202.2]]
|}

Guide bolt:
* OE A0004211018 (18 EUR)
* OEM ATE 11817100721 (8 EUR)

{|
|[[File:W220_rear_brake_caliper_guide_bolt_A0004211018.jpg|thumb|none|Guide bolt A0004211018]]
|[[File:W220_rear_brake_caliper_guide_bolt_ATE_11.8171-0072.1.jpg|thumb|none|Guide bolt ATE 11.8171-0072.1]]
|}

'''Please note that in ATE brake systems with open caliper guides the guides must not be lubricated!'''

Gasket set:
* OE A0004219986 (25 EUR)
* OEM ATE 11044142032 (10 EUR)

{|
|[[File:W220_rear_brake_caliper_gasket_set_A0004219986.jpg|thumb|none|Gasket set A0004219986]]
|[[File:W220_rear_brake_caliper_gasket_set_ATE_11.0441-4203.2.jpg|thumb|none|Gasket set ATE 11.0441-4203.2]]
|}

Retaining spring:
* OE A0004218591 (12 EUR)
* OEM ATE 11811603231 (5 EUR)

{|
|[[File:W220_rear_brake_caliper_retaining_spring_A0004218591.jpg|thumb|none|Retaining spring A0004218591]]
|[[File:W220_rear_brake_caliper_retaining_spring_ATE_11.8116-0323.1.jpg|thumb|none|Retaining spring ATE 11.8116-0323.1]]
|}

Brake cylinder paste:
* ATE 03990205102 (7 EUR)

The ATE brake cylinder paste ensures the necessary lubrication and preservation of hydraulic brake components and clutch parts. It is applied thinly and evenly to the cylinder surfaces, piston and sealing elements. - ATE brake cylinder paste is compatible with DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 brake fluids. - Easy installation of hydraulic brake parts - protects the treads from corrosion.

[[File:W220_brake_cylinder_paste_ATE_03.9902-0510.2.jpg|thumb|none|ATE brake cylinder paste 03.9902-0510.2]]

=== Rear brake pads replacement ===

This video shows how to replace front and rear brake pads.
The video shows part numbers for the Brake Pads (Front and Rear) and Pad Wear Sensor. Torque values are also shown.

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5N9JzHyN-M|320|center|W220 Brake Pads Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

=== Rear driver brake caliper replacement ===
This video shows how to replace the rear driver caliper in a left steered car. The procedure is very similar for the other wheels.

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/V41YHnSI0AM|320|center|W220 Rear Brake Caliper Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

=== Remove/install brake disc (rear axle) ===


{|
|
* 61 - Brake disk
* 63 - Security bolt
|[[File:W220_remove_install_brake_disk.jpg]]
|}

Remove/install:
# Remove wheels
# Release parking brake
# Check brake lining thickness and brake disks (61). Inspect condition of brake disks. Check brake lining thickness. Only replace brake pads and brake disks (61) in complete sets if necessary. If the brake pads have worn down to beyond the wear limit, the bar between the sealing groove and dust cap may be damaged; therefore: Inspect brake system for leaks with pressure tester.
# Remove brake disk. Do not detach brake hose, instead attach brake caliper to vehicle so that it is free of tension. Do not kink or tension brake hose, as otherwise it will be damaged.
# [[parking brake|Preloading automatic cable slack adjuster]]
# Remove locking bolt (64) and remove brake disk (61). If parking brake drums are run in, turn back the adjusting mechanism of the parking brake beforehand. Otherwise the brake shoes will be damaged. See: Adjusting parking brake. Installation: Replace securing bolt (64)

Clean:
# Clean contact surfaces and seat of brake disk (61) if necessary.
# Lightly grease seat of brake disk (61) using Hot lubricating paste.
# Check condition of brake shoes of parking brake. If necessary: replace parking brake brake shoes:
# Install in the reverse order

Checking:
# [[parking brake|Check version of pedal assembly]]
# [[parking brake|Adjust parking brake]]
# [[parking brake|Release automatic slack adjuster]]
# Carry out brake test on the test stand

Torque specifications:
* Locking bolt of rear/front axle brake disk: Nm 10
* Bolt, brake cable at parking brake cable slack adjuster 12

== Brake lines ==

[[File:W220_copper_brake_line_4.75mm_connectors.jpg|thumb|none|Part of the original brake line replaced with copper brake line and 4.75mm connectors]]

== Brake fluid replacement ==

Regular Flush Every Two Years. Brake fluid DOT4 is hydroscopic (absorbs water) and needs to be exchanged every two years under the maintenance schedule. A local dealer quoted $95 for this task. Plan for between 1-1.5 hrs if you DIY.

'''Warnings'''
* It is critically important to use the DOT rating specified in the owner’s manual.
* Brake fluid is hazardous. Wear latex gloves, safety glasses, and protect the paint of your car.

'''DIY Brake Fluid Flush'''
* Suck out old fluid in reservoir using a miti-vac or a turkey baster.
* Top off with NEW UNOPENED DOT-4 PLUS fluid ONLY!
* Connect Power Bleeder which has been filled with NEW UNOPENED DOT-4 PLUS fluid!
* Pressurize the brake system with the Power Bleeder (138KPa (20 psi) via the integrated pump).
* Bleed all four callipers, LR, RR, LF and then RF.
* Inspect for leaks.
* Depressurize the system, CAUTION: DO NOT SPRAY THE FLUID, otherwise you will be getting a new paint job.
* Do a manual check of brake pressure
* Make a final check of the level of fluid in the brake reservoir.
* Record Brake Flush in Maintenance Records.
* Dispose of old brake fluid responsibly .

TIP: If possible alternate brake fluid colour from one flush to the next. The difference in colour gives good confidence that everything is flushed out.

Quantity of Brake Fluid Required for a Thorough Flush: It will use about 3L for a full and thorough flush.

The following video shows how to completely flush and replace the Brake Fluid using the Pressure Vacuum method.
{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/GfosobLjGQE|320|center|W220 Brake Fluid Flush (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

=== Parts ===
DOT 4 brake oils (MB 331.0 spec):
* FEBI BILSTEIN 26748 (0.25l) - 2.5 EUR
* FEBI BILSTEIN 23930 (1l) - 7.4 EUR
* FEBI BILSTEIN 23932 (5l) - 26.4 EUR

{|
|[[File:DOT4_0.25L_Febi_bilstein_26748.jpg|thumb|none|FEBI BILSTEIN 26748 (0.25l)]]
|[[File:DOT4_1L_Febi_bilstein_23930.jpg|thumb|none|FEBI BILSTEIN 23930 (1l)]]
|[[File:DOT4_5L_Febi_bilstein_23932.jpg|thumb|none|FEBI BILSTEIN 23932 (5l)]]
|}

== Brake Light Switch ==

If you are getting the ABS and ESP lights with a VISIT WORKSHOP warning and the BAS ESP light, then look no further. Chances are your brake light switch needs to be replaced. This video is shot on an E320, but many Mercedes cars including SL500, SL55 AMG, SL600, CL500, CL55 AMG, CL600, S500 S430, CL65 AMG SL65 AMG, S350, S65 AMG, S55 AMG, SL550, SL63 AMG and S600 use the same Brake Light Switch and setup.

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/jKoS5-Lsl3A|320|center|W210/W220 Brake Light Switch or Brake Stop Sensor Switch Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

Brakes

2022-01-04T22:16:26Z

Masood:

== Front brakes ==

[[File:W220_front_wheel_brake_epc.png|thumb|none|Front brake-related parts in [[EPC]]]]

=== Front disk brake rotor ===
Front brake disks on vehicles with M113 engines (S430/S500) are larger and thicker compared to vehicles with M112 engines (S280/S320/S500).
{|
|
S500/S430:
* OE A2204212512 (135 EUR)
* ATE 24.0132-0115.1 (75 EUR/piece)
* TRW DF4148S (58 EUR/piece)

[[File:W220_front_brake_disk_TRW_DF4148S.jpg|thumb|none|TRW DF4148S brake disk (32mm thick, 330mm diameter)]]
|
S280/S320/S350:
* OE A2204210912 (135 EUR)
* ATE 24.0128-0125.1 (69 EUR/piece)
* TRW DF4149S (56 EUR/piece)
[[File:W220_front_brake_disk_TRW_DF4149S.jpg|thumb|none|TRW DF4149S brake disk (28mm thick, 312mm diameter)]]
|}

=== Front disk brake pads ===
Brake pads are sold in pairs (for both sides).
* OE A0044209020 (112 EUR)
* ATE 13.0470-4990.2 (67 EUR)
* TRW GDB1543DTE (50 EUR)

[[File:W220_front_brake_pads_TRW_GDB1543DTE.jpg|thumb|none|TRW GDB1543DTE brake pads]]

=== Accessory kit ===
In case brake pads are changed after several years, the spring bolts become seized and to remove them they have to be bent and broken out (see photo below).
When buying brake accessory kit, make sure to purchase spring that has bolt anchors (e.g., kit by ATE) to prevent spring from slipping off the bolts (see photos below).

{|
|[[File:W220_front_brake_removing_seized_spring_bolts.jpg|thumb|none|Removing seized spring bolts]]
|[[File:W220_front_brake_spring_slipped.jpg|thumb|none|Brake spring slipped off the bolts]]
|[[File:W220_front_brake_spring_attached.jpg|thumb|none|Brake spring with bolt anchors]]
|}

Part numbers:
* Spring - A0004217891 (replaced by A0004219791) (14 EUR)
* Bolts - A0019915160 (12 EUR)
* Kit - ATE 13.0460-0237.2 (9 EUR)
{|
|[[File:W220_front_brakes_accessory_kit_ATE.jpg|thumb|none|ATE 13.0460-0237.2 accessory kit]]
|[[File:W220_front_brakes_accessory_kit_ATE_13.0460-0237.2.jpg|thumb|none|ATE 13.0460-0237.2 accessory kit]]
|}

=== Front dust shield ===
It is common for the dust shield (also known as a protective plate) to rust in the bolt holes resulting in the dust shield touching disk rotor.
The original dust shields are quote expensive, unfortunately, aftermarket dust shields for the front axle are not available in the market.

{|
|[[File:W220_front_dust_shield_rusted_bolt_holes_fixed.jpg|thumb|none|Rusted bolt holes fixed by installing large washers]]
|}

Part numbers:
* OE left: A2204200444 (124 EUR)
* OE right: A2204200544 (88 EUR)

{|
|[[File:W220_dust_shield_front_left_A2204200444.jpg|thumb|none|Dust shield front left (A2204200444)]]
|}

=== Remove/install brake disc (front axle) ===


{|
|
* 61 - Brake disk
* 63 - Security bolt
|[[File:W220_remove_install_brake_disk.jpg]]
|}

Remove/install:
# Remove wheels
# Check brake lining thickness and brake disks (61). Inspect condition of brake disks. Check brake lining thickness. Only replace brake pads and brake disks (61) in complete sets if necessary. If the brake pads have worn down to beyond the wear limit, the bar between the sealing groove and dust cap may be damaged; therefore: Inspect brake system for leaks with pressure tester.
# Remove brake disk. Do not detach brake hose, instead attach brake caliper to vehicle so that it is free of tension. Do not kink or tension brake hose, as otherwise it will be damaged.
# Remove locking bolt (64) and remove brake disk (61). Installation: Replace securing bolt (64)

Clean:
# Clean contact surfaces and seat of brake disk (61) if necessary.
# Lightly grease seat of brake disk (61) using Hot lubricating paste.
# Install in the reverse order

Checking:
# Carry out brake test on the test stand

Torque specifications:
* Locking bolt of rear/front axle brake disk: Nm 10

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/rmuuIm0FkkU|320|center|W220 Front Brake Rotors Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

== Rear brakes ==

[[File:W220_rear_wheel_brake_epc.png|thumb|none|Rear brake-related parts in [[EPC]]]]

=== Rear disk brake rotor ===
Note that for vehicles with M113 V8 engine (S500/S430) the rear caliper is around 1cm wider than on vehicles with M112 V6 engine (S350), therefore the rear disk rotor for M113 V8 engine is 22mm thick, while for M112 V6 engine only 11m.
{|
|
S500/S430:
* OE A2204230212 (120 EUR)
* TRW DF4437 (42 EUR/piece)

[[File:W220_rear_disk_rotors_TRW_DF4437.jpg|thumb|none|TRW DF4437 brake disk (22mm thick)]]
|
S350:
* OE A2204230112 (114 EUR)
* TRW DF4436 (36 EUR/piece)

[[File:W220_rear_disk_rotors_TRW_DF4436.jpg|thumb|none|TRW DF4436 brake disk (11mm thick)]]
|}

=== Rear disk brake pads ===
Brake pads are sold in pairs (for both sides).
* OE A0034205120 (87 EUR)
* TRW GDB1546DTE (35 EUR)

[[File:W220_Rear_brake_pads_Trw_GDB1546DTE.jpg|thumb|none|TRW GDB1546DTE brake pads]]

=== Brake shoes ===
For installation instructions see [[parking brake]] page.

Part numbers (set for both sides):
* OE - A2204200520 (87 EUR)
* Ate 03.0137-4016.2 (35 EUR) - comes with springs
* TRW GS8482 (30 EUR)

[[File:W220_brake_shoes_Ate_03013740162.jpg|thumb|none|Brake shoes (Ate 03.0137-4016.2)]]

==== Brake shoe extension springs ====
Part numbers (number of pieces for both sides):
* Extension spring, brake shoe pull-back (x2) - A2104230092, FEBI BILSTEIN 02105 (0.23 EUR)
* Extension spring, brake shoe pull-back (x2) - A2014230692 (replaced by A1714230092), FEBI BILSTEIN 02104 (0.71 EUR)
* Extension spring, brake shoes to cover plates (x4) - A2014230592, FEBI BILSTEIN 02103 (0.24 EUR)

{|
|[[File:W220_A2104230092_brake_shoe_pull-back.jpg|thumb|none|Brake shoe pull-back (A2104230092)]]
|[[File:W220_A2014230692_A1714230092_brake_shoe_pull-back.jpg|thumb|none|Brake shoe pull-back (A2014230692)]]
|[[File:W220_A2014230592_brake_shoes_to_cover_plates.jpg|thumb|none|Brake shoes to cover plates (A2014230592)]]
|}

==== Brake shoe expansion lock ====
Part numbers (set for both sides):
* OE - A2014200589 (13 EUR)
* ATE 03.0137-9704.2 (6 EUR)
{|
|[[File:W220_brake_shoe_expanshion_lock_Ate_03013797042.jpg|thumb|none|Brake shoe expansion lock (ATE 03.0137-9704.2)]]
|[[File:W220_brake_shoe_expansion_lock_ATE_03.0137-9704.2.jpg|thumb|none|Brake shoe expansion lock (ATE 03.0137-9704.2)]]
|[[File:W220_new_brake_shoe_expansion_lock_mounted.jpg|thumb|none|Brake shoe expansion lock mounted]]
|}

=== Rear dust shield ===
{|
|
Part numbers (left):
* OE left: A2204230420 (96 EUR)
* A.b.s. 11320 (30 EUR)
* METZGER 6115177 (20 EUR)
* Triscan 812523214 (23 EUR)
* Nk 233342 (26 EUR)
|
Part numbers (right):
* OE right: A2204230520 (125 EUR)
* A.b.s. 11321 (30 EUR)
* METZGER 6115178 (20 EUR)
* Triscan 812523215 (23 EUR)
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_dust_shield_rear_left_A2204230420.jpg|thumb|none|Dust shield rear left (A2204230420)]]
|[[File:W220_rear_dust_shields_Metzger.jpg|thumb|none|Rear durst shields left and right (METZGER)]]
|}

The dust shield is attached to the wheel carrier using two E10 (A2204230071) and two 13mm (A2204230371) bots.
{|
|[[File:W220_A2204230071_dust_shield_bolt_E10.jpg|thumb|none|Bolt E10 M6x12 (A2204230071)]]
|[[File:W220_A2204230371_dust_shield_bolt_13mm.jpg|thumb|none|Bolt 13mm M8x12 (A2204230371)]]
|}

Removal of two E10 bolts may be challenging if the heads for the bolts are rusted. Access through the wheel hub is angled, hence it may be required to hammer on E10 socket to get grip. The original E10 bolts can be replaced with standard M6x12 bolts. To mount a new dust shield without removing wheel bearing (overly complex job), the dust shield has to be cut in two places and pushed over wheel hub (see below). The cut can be welded or glued using, e.g., Kafuter A+B glue. The cut will not be visible as it will be covered by brake caliper.

{|
|[[File:W220_rear_dust_shield_E10_bolt_removal.jpg|thumb|none|Removal of rear dust shield E10 bolt]]
|[[File:W220_mounting_rear_right_dust_shield_cut.jpg|thumb|none|Mounting cut rear right dust shield]]
|[[File:W220_rear_right_dust_shield_welded_glued.jpg|thumb|none|Rear right dust shield glued back together]]
|[[File:W220_new_rear_dust_shield_with_brake_shoes_mounted.jpg|thumb|none|Rear right dust shield with brake shoes mounted]]
|}

=== Rear axle wiring ===

[[File:W220_rear_axle_wiring.png|thumb|none|Rear axle wiring]]

The rear brake pad wear sensor is the same part as for the front. The sensor attaches to the rear right inner brake pad.
[[File:W220_brake_pad_wear_sensor_A2205400717.jpg|thumb|none|Brake pad wear sensor (A2205400717)]]

The wear sensor wiring bracket (A2205460843) is attached to the rear right dust shield.

[[File:W220_A2205460843_rear_right_wear_indicator_bracket.jpg|thumb|none|Rear right wear indicator wiring bracket (A2205460843)]]

The rear wear indicator wire is attached to the right caliper using E10 torx bolt (N91014300600).
[[File:W220_N910143006002_brake_wear_indicator_bolt.jpg|thumb|none|Rear right wear indicator bolt M6x20 (N91014300600)]]

=== Rear brake caliper ===

==== Repair kit ([[facelift]]) ====

Guide sleeve kit:
* OE A0004200776 (20 EUR)
* ATE 11010142022 (8 EUR)

{|
|[[File:W220_rear_brake_caliper_guide_sleeve_kit_A0004200776.jpg|thumb|none|Guide sleeve kit A0004200776]]
|[[File:W220_rear_brake_caliper_guide_sleeve_kit_ATE_11.0101-4202.2.jpg|thumb|none|Guide sleeve kit ATE 11.0101-4202.2]]
|}

Guide bolt:
* OE A0004211018 (18 EUR)
* OEM ATE 11817100721 (8 EUR)

{|
|[[File:W220_rear_brake_caliper_guide_bolt_A0004211018.jpg|thumb|none|Guide bolt A0004211018]]
|[[File:W220_rear_brake_caliper_guide_bolt_ATE_11.8171-0072.1.jpg|thumb|none|Guide bolt ATE 11.8171-0072.1]]
|}

'''Please note that in ATE brake systems with open caliper guides the guides must not be lubricated!'''

Gasket set:
* OE A0004219986 (25 EUR)
* OEM ATE 11044142032 (10 EUR)

{|
|[[File:W220_rear_brake_caliper_gasket_set_A0004219986.jpg|thumb|none|Gasket set A0004219986]]
|[[File:W220_rear_brake_caliper_gasket_set_ATE_11.0441-4203.2.jpg|thumb|none|Gasket set ATE 11.0441-4203.2]]
|}

Retaining spring:
* OE A0004218591 (12 EUR)
* OEM ATE 11811603231 (5 EUR)

{|
|[[File:W220_rear_brake_caliper_retaining_spring_A0004218591.jpg|thumb|none|Retaining spring A0004218591]]
|[[File:W220_rear_brake_caliper_retaining_spring_ATE_11.8116-0323.1.jpg|thumb|none|Retaining spring ATE 11.8116-0323.1]]
|}

Brake cylinder paste:
* ATE 03990205102 (7 EUR)

The ATE brake cylinder paste ensures the necessary lubrication and preservation of hydraulic brake components and clutch parts. It is applied thinly and evenly to the cylinder surfaces, piston and sealing elements. - ATE brake cylinder paste is compatible with DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 brake fluids. - Easy installation of hydraulic brake parts - protects the treads from corrosion.

[[File:W220_brake_cylinder_paste_ATE_03.9902-0510.2.jpg|thumb|none|ATE brake cylinder paste 03.9902-0510.2]]

=== Rear brake pads replacement ===

This video shows how to replace front and rear brake pads.
The video shows part numbers for the Brake Pads (Front and Rear) and Pad Wear Sensor. Torque values are also shown.

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5N9JzHyN-M|320|center|W220 Brake Pads Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

=== Rear driver brake caliper replacement ===
This video shows how to replace the rear driver caliper in a left steered car. The procedure is very similar for the other wheels.

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/V41YHnSI0AM|320|center|W220 Rear Brake Caliper Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

=== Remove/install brake disc (rear axle) ===


{|
|
* 61 - Brake disk
* 63 - Security bolt
|[[File:W220_remove_install_brake_disk.jpg]]
|}

Remove/install:
# Remove wheels
# Release parking brake
# Check brake lining thickness and brake disks (61). Inspect condition of brake disks. Check brake lining thickness. Only replace brake pads and brake disks (61) in complete sets if necessary. If the brake pads have worn down to beyond the wear limit, the bar between the sealing groove and dust cap may be damaged; therefore: Inspect brake system for leaks with pressure tester.
# Remove brake disk. Do not detach brake hose, instead attach brake caliper to vehicle so that it is free of tension. Do not kink or tension brake hose, as otherwise it will be damaged.
# [[parking brake|Preloading automatic cable slack adjuster]]
# Remove locking bolt (64) and remove brake disk (61). If parking brake drums are run in, turn back the adjusting mechanism of the parking brake beforehand. Otherwise the brake shoes will be damaged. See: Adjusting parking brake. Installation: Replace securing bolt (64)

Clean:
# Clean contact surfaces and seat of brake disk (61) if necessary.
# Lightly grease seat of brake disk (61) using Hot lubricating paste.
# Check condition of brake shoes of parking brake. If necessary: replace parking brake brake shoes:
# Install in the reverse order

Checking:
# [[parking brake|Check version of pedal assembly]]
# [[parking brake|Adjust parking brake]]
# [[parking brake|Release automatic slack adjuster]]
# Carry out brake test on the test stand

Torque specifications:
* Locking bolt of rear/front axle brake disk: Nm 10
* Bolt, brake cable at parking brake cable slack adjuster 12

== Brake lines ==

[[File:W220_copper_brake_line_4.75mm_connectors.jpg|thumb|none|Part of the original brake line replaced with copper brake line and 4.75mm connectors]]

== Brake fluid replacement ==

Regular Flush Every Two Years. Brake fluid DOT4 is hydroscopic (absorbs water) and needs to be exchanged every two years under the maintenance schedule. A local dealer quoted $95 for this task. Plan for between 1-1.5 hrs if you DIY.

'''Warnings'''
* It is critically important to use the DOT rating specified in the owner’s manual.
* Brake fluid is hazardous. Wear latex gloves, safety glasses, and protect the paint of your car.

'''DIY Brake Fluid Flush'''
* Suck out old fluid in reservoir using a miti-vac or a turkey baster.
* Top off with NEW UNOPENED DOT-4 PLUS fluid ONLY!
* Connect Power Bleeder which has been filled with NEW UNOPENED DOT-4 PLUS fluid!
* Pressurize the brake system with the Power Bleeder (138KPa (20 psi) via the integrated pump).
* Bleed all four callipers, LR, RR, LF and then RF.
* Inspect for leaks.
* Depressurize the system, CAUTION: DO NOT SPRAY THE FLUID, otherwise you will be getting a new paint job.
* Do a manual check of brake pressure
* Make a final check of the level of fluid in the brake reservoir.
* Record Brake Flush in Maintenance Records.
* Dispose of old brake fluid responsibly .

TIP: If possible alternate brake fluid colour from one flush to the next. The difference in colour gives good confidence that everything is flushed out.

Quantity of Brake Fluid Required for a Thorough Flush: It will use about 3L for a full and thorough flush.

The following video shows how to completely flush and replace the Brake Fluid using the Pressure Vacuum method.
{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/GfosobLjGQE|320|center|W220 Brake Fluid Flush (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

== Parts ==
DOT 4 brake oils (MB 331.0 spec):
* FEBI BILSTEIN 26748 (0.25l) - 2.5 EUR
* FEBI BILSTEIN 23930 (1l) - 7.4 EUR
* FEBI BILSTEIN 23932 (5l) - 26.4 EUR

{|
|[[File:DOT4_0.25L_Febi_bilstein_26748.jpg|thumb|none|FEBI BILSTEIN 26748 (0.25l)]]
|[[File:DOT4_1L_Febi_bilstein_23930.jpg|thumb|none|FEBI BILSTEIN 23930 (1l)]]
|[[File:DOT4_5L_Febi_bilstein_23932.jpg|thumb|none|FEBI BILSTEIN 23932 (5l)]]
|}

=== Brake Light Switch ===

If you are getting the ABS and ESP lights with a VISIT WORKSHOP warning and the BAS ESP light, then look no further. Chances are your brake light switch needs to be replaced. This video is shot on an E320, but many Mercedes cars including SL500, SL55 AMG, SL600, CL500, CL55 AMG, CL600, S500 S430, CL65 AMG SL65 AMG, S350, S65 AMG, S55 AMG, SL550, SL63 AMG and S600 use the same Brake Light Switch and setup.

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/jKoS5-Lsl3A|320|center|W210/W220 Brake Light Switch or Brake Stop Sensor Switch Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

Mass air flow sensor

2021-09-19T20:37:40Z

Masood:

Back to '''[[Index]]'''

Reference: WIS 07.07 Air Volume Gauge, Air Mass Gauge
==Description - MAF==
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor is also known as the Air Volume Gauge or Air Mass Gauge.

The MAF contains a hot wire sensor. For a complete description refer to:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_flow_sensor

[[File:W220_Mass_Air_Flow_%28MAF%29_Sensor.JPG|300px|center]]

This is what a MAF looks like courtesy of German Star.

[[File:W220_MAF_Sensor_Element_Courtesy_of_German_Star.JPG|300px|center]]

==Self Cleaning Function - MAF==
One BenzWorld Member stated that the Bosch MAFs have a cleaning cycle. During this cycle, the current is briefly increased to the hot wire sensor and this increases the temperature to something like 1000F. This is akin to a self cleaning oven.

==Issues - MAF==
A commercial cleaner will remove oil and such deposits, but in the case of the Bosch MAF units, the deposit is probably more like a hard scale caused by deposits baking on.

==DIY - Replace MAF ==
The following video shows how to replace the MAF housing:

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/73rXBrisqsc|320|center|MAF Housing Relacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

The M-B designers knew that the MAF will foul over time and included programming that allows it to adapt to a changing reading. When this adaptation gets out of range, we get the typical mixture codes - such as P0170/3. Dealers apparently have the ability to check the degree of "adaption" whereas all we can read with our OBD II meters, is the codes.

==DIY - MAF==
It is possible to re-use your MAF housing and just buy the Bosch insert eg for $139 from Germanstar.net. That is the cheapest in the current market.

However the MAF is held in place with Torx Security Screws which have a dimple in the center of the screws and a special driver is needed.

[[File:MAF_Security_Torx_Screw_Driver.JPG|150px|center]]

See article on cleaning by BenzWorld Member Check Codes.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1328069-maf-diy-pictorial-replacing-cleaning.html

There are heaps of other article on cleaning and replacing the MAF.

To Be Completed.

Special tools

2021-08-26T23:22:01Z

Masood:

==Description - Special Tools==
Reference: W220 Wiki Section WIS 58 Tools and Accessories

There are a number of useful Mercedes-Benz special tools that considerably help (or are required) when dismantling interior of car to retrofit stuff - here is a list of some of them.


{| class="wikitable"
!Part Number
!Description
|-
|W126 589 0010 00
|Steering Wheel Airbag removal tool
|-
|W963 589 0105 00
|COMAND/Audio-30/W220 Cluster Removal Tools
|-
|W140 589 0233 00
|Pulling hooks (for removing cluster) 124/126/129/new cars
|-
|W110 589 0059 00
|Pulling hooks (for removing cluster) W107/W123
|-
|W110 589 0359 00
|Hard Wedge (for unclipping panels etc)
|-
|W115 589 0359 00
|Long Wedge (for unclipping panels etc)
|-
|TBA
| Connector dissasembly tool (to remove wires from connector plugs/sockets)
|}
==Best Cordless Impact Gun for Benz Mechanics==

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/Ps-mGbeszGU|320|center|Best Impact Gun (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

==Long Wedge and Pulling Hooks==
[[File:MB_Special_Tools_Long_Wedge_and_Pulling_Hooks.JPG|300px|center]]

==Spark Plug HT Wires Removal Tool==
A special spark plug wire removal tool is available. It is a 17mm, open ended tool with a 25mm off-set and is made by JTC with part number J-1308. It can be found in eBay for $20.

'''JTC Spark Plug Wire Removal Tool J-1308'''

[[File:JTC_Spark_Plug_Wire_Removal_Tool_J-1308.JPG|400px|center]]

==Instrument Cluster Repair Tool Kit==
[[File:W220_Instrument_Cluster_Repair_Tool_Kit.JPG|300px|center]]

Homemade ones fashioned out of 1mm thick sheet aluminium.
[[File:Home Made Tools for Removing Instrument Cluster.jpg|300px|center]]

== Electronic Ignition Switch (EIS) ==
A home made tool can be manufactured several pieces of PVC pipe for unscrewing the EIS bezel.

[[File:Home Made EIS Bezel Unscrewing Tool.jpg|300px|center]]

The bezel is easily unscrewed.

[[File:Bezel Unscrewing Tool Inserted in EIS.jpg|300px|center]]

==AIRmatic Tools==
===Strut Seal Remover Tool - AIRmatic===
A commercial tool is available to remove the top seal on the front axle AIRmatic suspension strut.
[[File:W220_Airmatic_Strut_Seal_Remover_Tool.JPG|300px|center]]

How to make a DIY version is shown here http://w220.ee/Airmatic#Tools_Required_-_DIY_Refurbishment_Airmatic_Spring_Strut_Front_.2840.29
[[File:W220 strut top seal tool 01.jpg|300px|center]]

===Residual Pressure Valve Socket - AIRmatic===
A commercial 1/4" drive AIRmatic Residual Pressure Holding Valve Tool is available. It is used to remove and install the brass Residual Pressure Holding Valves at each of the air inlets to the front-axle AIRmatic suspension struts.
[[File:W220 AIRmatic Residual Pressure Holding Valve 01.JPG|200px]][[File:W220 AIRmatic Residual Pressure Holding Valve Commercial Removal Tool.JPG|150px]][[File:W220 Residual Pressure Valve Socket.JPG|200px]]

How to make a DIY version of an AIRmatic Residual Pressure Holding Valve Tool is shown here http://w220.ee/Airmatic#Tools_Required_-_DIY_Refurbishment_Airmatic_Spring_Strut_Front_.2840.29

== Front and Rear Axle Angle Measurement Tool==
When adjusting the height of a M-B W220 with AIRmatic suspension it is necessary to know the angles of the front and rear axles.

WIS specifies that an inclinometer should be used but any angle measuring device will suffice, although some are easier to use than others.

There are several free applications for measuring angles available for smart phones.
[[File:Smart Phone App for Measuring Angle.jpg|300 pixels|center]]

For how to use see Section [[Angle Measuring Device or Inclinometer]]

== Front Suspension Tools ==
===Ball Joint Separator/Remover Tool - Front Suspension===
The W220 requires a larger size Ball Joint separator/remover (19mm).
* Mercedes-Benz Ball Joint Installer Remover W220 W211 W230 JTC 1310A or
* Pro-Auto-Tools 1310A Mercedes Ball Joint Tool.
[[File:Pro-Auto-Tools 1310A Mercedes Ball Joint Tool.jpg|300px|center]]
* Mercedes/BMW ball joint separator $25 on eBay.
[[File:Ball Joint Separator.jpg|300px|center]]

===Torque Strut Bushing Kit - Front Suspension===
Baum Tools have a Torque Strut Bushing Kit Number 8220-0643 for about US$171 to be used on the Front Lower Control Arm Bushings. However it seems that this tool is not an absolute necessity. You can get by with making do with other means.
[[File:Baum Torque Strut Bushing Kit B220-0643.JPG|thumb|none|Baum Torque Strut Bushing Kit 8220-0643]]

'''Photo of Baum Torque Strut Bushing Kit B220-0643.'''
[[File:Photo of Baum Torque Strut Bushing Kit B220-0643.JPG|400px|center]]

=== LCA Bushing Removal and Installation Tool - Front Suspension===
Removal and installation tool for supporting joint in wheel carrier.
Required to [[Replacing_lower_control_arm_bushings|replace lower control arm bushings]].


[[File:202589004300_removal_and_installation_tool.png]]

==== OE Tool ====
MB Part number W202589004300 (replaces W140589074300 and W201589054300).
While the tool can be bought only in full by part number W202589004300, the tool has part number W202589004301 engraved on the inner part and part number W202589004302 on the outer part. Both parts have also the month of manufacture engraved.

{|
|[[File:W202589004300.jpg|thumb|none|MB tool W202589004300.]]
|[[File:W202589004300_in_use.jpg|thumb|none|MB tool W202589004300 in use.]]
|}

==== ZDMAK M0085 ====
ZDMAK sells [http://zdmak.com/wbstore/main.asp?action=PROD&PROD=M0085&CTMP=1]
an aftermarket tool for the MB tool W202589004300. The tool costs 114$ while the OE MB tool 100$.
Furthermore, there have been reports of tool going broke.
[http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w124-e-ce-d-td-class/1695731-300te-subframe-doesnt-want-lower-7.html]
[http://mail.okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/2010-December/168240.html].

{|
|[[File:M0085 tool.jpg|thumb|none|ZDMAK M0085 tool in use.]]
|[[File:M0085 tool broken.jpg|thumb|none|ZDMAK M0085 tool broken.]]
|}

== Rear Suspension Tools ==
=== AIRmatic Lower Rubber Bushes - Rear Suspension===
The Rear AIRmatic to Lower Control Arm connection Rubber Bushes are designated (17), and require a special extraction and insertion tool (202589004300). Note this is the same tool as the Front Lower Control Arm (LCA) Bushing Removal and Installation Tool described above.
[[File:W220 strut supporting joint.png|200px|center]] [[File:W220 rear shock absorbers Insertion and Extraction tool..JPG|300px|center]]

== Distronic (DTR) Calibration Tool ==
Distronic calibration and alignment should be performed by a M-B expert using an alignment tool such as MERCEDES Distronic Adjustment Calibration Tool 900589072100 manufactured by Polytec with model number OJV-060.
[[File:Distronic Retrofit 039.jpg|600px|center]]
== Engine Mounts - Special Offset Spanner ==
BenzWorld Members report there is a special M-B offset wrench/spanner that is used on the top bolt of the W140 chassis mounts as they are particularly tough to get at. They may be useful for W220 engine mount replacement.

The wrenches are available in both 16mm and 17mm sizes.
[https://www.amazon.com/Mercedes-Offset-Engine-Mount-Wrench/dp/B0081VH88W]

'''Mercedes Benz Offset 17mm Engine Mount Wrench'''
[[File:Offset Wrench Spanner for Engine Mounts.JPG|600px|center]]

Ignition system

2021-08-26T23:15:05Z

Masood:

==Ignition System==
[[File:W220_EPC_ignition_system.png|thumb|none|Parts in [[EPC]] related to ignition system.]]

This page covers W220 petrol engines M112 (V6 engine used in [[S350]]) and M113 (V8 engine used in [[S430]] and [[S500]]).

The W220 uses a twin-spark ignition system for each cylinder and thus the V8 has eight ignition coils (or ignition plug packs).
There is one coil pack per cylinder, which produces spark for two spark plugs per cylinder.

Misfiring frequently occurs because of burnt ignition coils, faulty ignition cables and spark plugs. These elements have to be replaced regularly.

In case of failure, the following codes can be thrown:
* P2050 Misfiring, Damages TWC (P0300) STORED
* P2056 Misfiring of cylinder 4, damages TWC (P0304) STORED
* P205B Misfiring of cylinder 8, damages TWC (P0308) STORED

== Notes on avoiding damage to ignition system ==


''The main points:''
* '''No tests such as holding an ignition HT Wire at a distance from ground and observing a spark must be performed.'''
* '''Do not operate the ignition system at starting speed unless all of the HT Wires are connected.'''
* '''Before working at cranking speed e.g. to check compression pressure, switch off ignition and disconnect Ignition Control Unit from 12V.'''

Notes on avoiding damage to ignition system:
* To avoid damage to control unit, only connect and disconnect the two connectors on control unit when ignition is switched off.
* Terminal 1 of ignition coils must not be short-circuited to GND, e.g. as antitheft protection.
* Only install original ignition system components.
* Do not operate ignition system at starting speed unless all of the ignition cables are connected.
* No tests such as holding ignition cable 4 at a distance to GND, unplugging a spark plug connector or pulling cable 4 out of the ignition coils, may be performed at starting speed or when the engine is running.
* Every high voltage circuit must be loaded with at least 2 kΩ (spark-plug connector).
* If it is necessary to test the ignition spark when providing roadside assistance, this must only be done with a spark plug at a cylinder ignition cable. Ensure that spark plug has good contact to ground.
* Before working at cranking speed, e.g. checking compression pressure, switch off ignition and disconnect connector "2" from control unit.

'''Use of testers and testing units:'''
* Only connect and disconnect secondary measuring sensor to corresponding ignition cables when vertical engine and ignition are switched off.
* If the short-circuit protection is operated (cylinder comparison) and the engine stays upright, it is not possible to conduct the test with this test instrument.
* Do not connect test lamp to ignition coil terminals 1 and 15.

== Remove/install ignition coils ==


{|
|Shown on engine 112

* 5/1 - Spark plug connector
* 5/3 - Screw
* T1/1 - Cylinder 1 ignition coil
* T1/2 - Cylinder 2 ignition coil
* T1/3 - Cylinder 3 ignition coil
* T1/4 - Cylinder 4 ignition coil
* T1/5 - Cylinder 5 ignition coil
* T1/6 - Cylinder 6 ignition coil
* T1/7 - Cylinder 7 ignition coil
* T1/8 - Cylinder 8 ignition coil

Arrow: Identification of the connector
|[[File:W220_remove_install_ignition_coils.png]]
|}

# Unclip cover on front side of engine
# Remove engine cover with integrated air filter. The air filter is integrated in the engine cover. Remove the engine cover or the air filter housing by pulling it from the cylinder head covers vertically in the upward direction.
# Remove air filter housing.
# Remove screw (5/3). ''Remove Torx 30 bolts that hold down the coil packs on the valve cover. One T30 bolt per ignition coil.''
# Detach spark plug connector (5/1) from the spark plugs. Pry off spark plug connector (5/1) using open-end wrench, double over the cylinder head cover of the spark plugs. Installation: Observe the identification of the connector (arrow) on the cylinder head cover and the ignition coil of cylinders 1 to 6 or 1 to 8 for the corresponding spark plug connector (5/1). ''Installing: put pressure on the ignition cable connector to push it all the way on the plug. Listen for a click as it goes on properly.''
# Separate electrical connector of ignition coil of cylinder 1 to 6 (T1/1 to T1/6) or 1 to 8 (T1/1 to T1/8). Installation: Install new cable ties.
# Remove ignition coil of cylinder 1 to 6 (T1/1 to T1/6) or 1 to 8 (T1/1 to T1/8)
# Install in the reverse order

Torque specification:
* Bolt, ignition coil to cylinder head cover (Engine 112, 113): 8 Nm

''A special spark plug cable removal tool is available (110 589 01 01 00). It is a 17mm, open ended tool with a 25mm off-set and is made by JTC with part number J-1308. It can be found in eBay for $20.''
{|
|[[File:Open_ended_wrench_double_110589010100.png|thumb|none|Open-end wrench, double (110 589 01 01 00)]]
|[[File:JTC_Spark_Plug_Wire_Removal_Tool_J-1308.JPG|thumb|none|JTC Spark Plug Wire Removal Tool J-1308.]]
|}

== Replace spark plugs ==


{|
|Shown on engine 112 in model 210
* 01 - Spark plug wrench
* 1 - Spark plug
|[[File:W220_replace_spark_plugs.png]]
|}

{|
|Shown on ignition coil of engine 157.980
* 2 - Spark plug connector
* 3 - Rubber lip
|[[File:W220_replace_spark_plugs_ignition_coil.png]]
|}

# ''Put hood in service position. Push on the locks on the hinges at left side and then the right side and raise hood to the service position (90 degrees fully open).''
# Remove ignition coils. ''Keep in correct order as the wire lengths are all different. Do not mix them up (mark with masking tape).''
# Blow out any dirt residue in the spark-plug recesses using compressed air
# Remove spark plugs (1) using spark plug wrench (01) from cylinder heads. ''Use an air ratchet with a swivel extension and a 3/8" drive 5/8" spark plug socket.''
# Screw new spark plugs (1) using spark plug wrench (01) into cylinder heads. ''Start screwing new spark plugs by hand to avoid cross threading.''
# Check spark plug connector (2), ignition coils and ignition lines for damage, deformation and crack formation.
# Grease rubber lips (3) of spark plug connectors (2) with spark plug connector grease (A0029898051) before installing
# Install ignition coils

''Always remove spark plugs on a stone cold engine or else risking stripping the threads.''

Torque specifications:
* Spark plugs (engine 112 and 113): 28 Nm

{|
|[[File:W220_‘G’_and_‘L’_Spark_Plug_Wires.JPG|thumb|none|Cable length symbol on ignition cable connectors.]]
|[[File:W220_Valve_cover_annotations_cylinder_5_H_goes_to_a_and_G_goes_to_b.JPG|thumb|none|The valve cover has ignition coil and ignition cable annotations for each cylinder (cylinder 5 H-cable goes to ''a'' and G-cable goes to ''b'').]]
|[[File:W220_ignition_coil_wire_spark_plug_job.jpg|thumb|none|Parts for ignition coil, ignition wire and spark plug replacement job]]
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_Swivel_Extension_and_Spark_Plug_Socket.JPG|thumb|none|Swivel extension and spark plug socket. A regular 5/8" (15.8mm) spark plug socket with a rubber insert works well for removing spark plugs. However the secret is to use a variety of extensions e.g., a short 74mm 3/8" drive extension on the tight spots in conjunction with a with swivel head.]]
|[[File:W220_pliers_spark_plug_socket.jpg|thumb|none|In practice, spark plug jobs on M112 and M113 can be done by using pliers with bent nose for ignition plug removal and swivel wrench with short extension and spark plug socket]]
|[[File:W220_spark_plug_socket_in_action.jpg|thumb|none|Swivel wrench with extension and spark plug socket in action (on M113)]]
|}


{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/dSTbh8fDHtc|320|left|PART III OF A 3 PART SERIES - SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES REPLACEMENT|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eycUkQ9T1V0|320|left|SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES REPLACEMENT|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzCdqlpRN3g|320|left|How to replace spark plugs and wires|frame}}
|}

== Spark plug connector grease ==

The rubber boot on the ignition cable is difficult to remove from a spark plug even when using the special removal tool.
Solution is to apply a small quantity of dielectric grease to the top conductor and the ceramic insulator (or to the spark plug connector) when re-installing new plugs.
This helps keep moisture away and stops corrosion.
Makes it infinitely easier to remove the spark plug connector.

* OE - A0029898051 (12 EUR)
* BERU ZKF01 - 0890300029 (8 EUR)
* Permatex 22058

{|
|[[File:A0029898051_grease_for_spark_plug_adaptors.jpg|thumb|none|Grease for spark plug adaptors (0029898051)]]
|[[File:BERU_ZKF01_a.jpg|thumb|none|BERU ZKF01 grease for spark plug adaptors]]
|[[File:BERU_ZKF01_b.jpg|thumb|none|BERU ZKF01 grease for spark plug adaptors]]
|[[File:Permatex_22058_Dielectric_Tune-Up_Grease.JPG|thumb|none|Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease]]
|}

== Parts ==

=== Spark plugs ===

* Mercedes-Benz specifies replacement of plugs at every 100 000km or 4 years. Spark plug ignition cables don't last much longer than that either.
* The resistance of the spark plug (electrode to ignition cable connector) is about 4.5K to 6K ohms.
* There should be extremely high resistance between the electrode and the plug metal thread.
* The spark plug electrode gap is 0.039” or 1mm.
* Tightening torque for spark plugs is 20-30 Nm (28 Nm according to WIS).
* Old spark plugs can show worn electrodes and a wider than specification gap.
* Broken insulators are common during removal of seized OEM plugs.
* Corroded spark plug threads make it difficult to remove an old plug. Solution is to use high temperature anti-seize grease (see below) when re-installing new plugs.

Part numbers:
* OE - A0041591903
* OE - A0031599403
* OE - A0041595003 (15 EUR)
* Bosch 0242230500 (5 EUR)
* Denso PK16PRL11 (6 EUR)
* Denso IK16TT (8 EUR) - recommended for [[LPG]], up to 100 0000 km
* NGK 4292 (EUR 8)
* BRISK DR17YS-9 (EUR 3) - suited for [[LPG]], interval max 30 000 km

[[File:Spark_Plug_Bosch_FR8DPP33+.JPG|thumb|none|BOSCH 0242230500]]

=== Ignition coils ===

* It is possible to perform basic tests on an ignition coil using a digital multi meter (DMM). Each coil secondary resistance measured from the plug cable to any of the three pins in the input electrical connector is approximately 4.8 M Ω (Mega Ohms). The cable circuit is isolated from ground thus the resistance between the cable pin and ground is infinity Ohms or open circuit.
* For BOSCH ignition coils the production date is visible on the coil (21T008 means production year 2021).



Parts:
* OE A0001587303 (replaced by A0001587803).
* BOSCH 0221503035 (40 EUR)

{|
|[[File:A0001587803_ignition_coil.jpg|thumb|none|Ignition coil (A0001587803)]]
|[[File:A0019907212_coil_pack_screw_T30.jpg|thumb|none|T30 screw for attaching ignition coil to engine (A0019907212).]]
|}

=== Ignition cables ===

* Spark plug ignition cables have a limited life. The resistance element in the cables often fails or goes high resistance due to fatigue.
Cable lead insulation can break down causing arcing to ground. The resistance for new plug wire is approximately 2.18K ohms.
* It is possible to perform basic tests on an ignition coil using a digital multi meter (DMM). Each coil secondary resistance measured from the plug cable to any of the three pins in the input electrical connector is approximately 4.8 M Ω (Mega Ohms). The cable circuit is isolated from ground thus the resistance between the cable pin and ground is infinity Ohms or open circuit.


Ignition cables are in different lengths:
* G-cable: 245mm - A1121500118 (45 EUR), BOSCH 0356912948 (14 EUR) - M112 x8, M113 x9
* K-cable: 265mm - A1121500218 (45 EUR), BOSCH 0356912950 (14 EUR) - M112 x4, M113 x4
* H-cable: 290mm - A1121500318 (56 EUR), BOSCH 0356912952 (30 EUR) - M112 x0, M113 x2 (If H-cable is not available, a slightly longer L-cable can be used instead.)
* L-cable: 315mm - A1121500418 (56 EUR), BOSCH 0356912954 (32 EUR) - M112 x0, M113 x1

{|
|[[File:W220_Spark_Plug_HT_Wire.JPG|thumb|none|Ignition cable.]]
|[[File:Bosch_Spark_Plug_Wire_Set.JPG|thumb|none|BOSCH spark plug wire set for M113.]]
|}

Ignition cable lengths for M112 (V6 [[S350]]):
* Cylinder 1, port a; K-cable
* Cylinder 1, port b; G-cable
* Cylinder 2, port a; G-cable
* Cylinder 2, port b; G-cable
* Cylinder 3, port a; G-cable
* Cylinder 3, port b; K-cable
* Cylinder 4, port a; K-cable
* Cylinder 4, port b; G-cable
* Cylinder 5, port a; G-cable
* Cylinder 5, port b; G-cable
* Cylinder 6, port a; G-cable
* Cylinder 6, port b; K-cable

Ignition cable lengths for M113 (V8 [[S430]] and [[S500]]):
* Cylinder 1, port a; L-cable
* Cylinder 1, port b; G-cable
* Cylinder 2, port a; H-cable
* Cylinder 2, port b; G-cable
* Cylinder 3, port a; K-cable
* Cylinder 3, port b; G-cable
* Cylinder 4, port a; K-cable
* Cylinder 4, port b; G-cable
* Cylinder 5, port a; H-cable
* Cylinder 5, port b; G-cable
* Cylinder 6, port a; K-cable
* Cylinder 6, port b; G-cable
* Cylinder 7, port a; G-cable
* Cylinder 7, port b; G-cable
* Cylinder 8, port a; G-cable
* Cylinder 8, port b; K-cable

Cable kits:
* Valeo 346141 (130 EUR)- M112
* NGK 7800 (221 EUR) - M113
* MAGNETI MARELLI 941318111285 (80 EUR) - M113

Crankcase ventilation cylinder head cover

2021-08-26T23:09:06Z

Masood:

=== Video to replace Crankcase Ventilation & Cylinder Head covers and gaskets ===

This video shows how to replace front and rear brake pads.
The video shows part numbers for the Brake Pads (Front and Rear) and Pad Wear Sensor. Torque values are also shown.

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/5StLcC-RoI0|320|center|PART I (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/-ySR9tLAW-s|320|center|PART II (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_EPC_engine_housing_cylinder_head_cover_v6.png|thumb|none|Parts in [[EPC]] related to engine housing - cylinder head cover (M112 V6 engine)]]
|[[File:W220_EPC_engine_housing_cylinder_head_cover_v8.png|thumb|none|Parts in [[EPC]] related to engine housing - cylinder head cover (M113 V8 engine)]]
|}

== Crankcase ventilation ==

=== Oil leaks ===
Crankcase ventilation cover (engine breather cover) is a very common source for oil leaks on Mercedes M112 V6 and M113 V8 engines. Just pull the top cover off your engine and look. Even cars with low mileage may have oil seeping out the breather covers on the top of the heads. When the oil gets on exhaust manifold, it creates smell that can be felt even in the cabin. Resealing the leaking breather chamber covers on top of engine is easy way to fix oil leak.

This is the job any owner of a 1998 to 2006 Mercedes with a V6 (M112) or a V8 (M113) engine will have to deal with at some point. Doing a proper reseal on these covers is not hard but it is tedious if you don't want them to leak again. This is one job if you want it done right you should consider doing it yourself!

{|
|[[File:W220_engine_breather_cover_oil_leak_M112_left_side.jpg|thumb|none|Breather cover oil leak (M112 - left side)]]
|[[File:W220_engine_breather_cover_oil_leak_M112_right_side.jpg|thumb|none|Breather cover oil leak (M112 - right side)]]
|[[File:W220_engine_breather_cover_oil_leak_M113_left_side.jpg|thumb|none|Breather cover oil leak (M113 - left side)]]
|[[File:W220_engine_breather_cover_oil_leak_M113_right_side.jpg|thumb|none|Breather cover oil leak (M113 - right side)]]
|}

=== Clogged ventilation valve ===
If engine oil is not regularly changed, the ventilation breather valve hole can become clogged which will result in water condensate being accumulated on the top of crankcase and visible on the engine oil cap. Proper cleaning of the milky water residue requires it to be cleaned also from the cylinder head cover. This may be a good moment to also replace the cylinder head cover gaskets.

{|
|[[File:W220_engine_oil_cap_milky_water_residue.jpg|thumb|none|Milky water residue on the engine oil cap (M112 engine)]]
|[[File:W220_engine_head_cover_milky_water_residue.jpg|thumb|none|Milky water residue on the cylinder head cover (M112 engine)]]
|[[File:W220_engine_head_cover_crankcase_ventilation_sealing.jpg|thumb|none|Resealing ventilation breather cover (M112 engine)]]
|}

=== Parts ===

Several parts will be needed for replacement. Several resealing kits are available:
* https://mercedessource.com/store/1998-2006-v6-and-v8-engine-breather-cover-oil-leak-fix-kit
* https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-breather-cover-reseal-kit-m112-m113-oem-m112bcvr

Below are the part numbers for each part.

==== Bolts ====
The 5 original aluminium bolts will have to be replaced with updated stainless steel ones as the old will snap if trying to reuse them.
The replacement stainless steel bolts have a 5 mm hex head rather than a torx head.

The bolts correspond to M5x18 specification and their part number is N000000004436 (~2 EUR/piece).

[[File:N000000004436.jpg|thumb|none|M5x18 bolt (N000000004436)]]

==== Sealant ====
Proper sealant must be used. OEM sealant is Loctite 5970 which is a silicone sealant and cures on exposure to moisture in the air to form a tough rubber gasket. The product is designed primarily for flexible flange sealing. It is ideally used where high vibration or flexing occurs. It is tack-free after just 25 min. The product can be used on machined or cast surfaces, metal, plastic or painted parts.

* A003989982010 50ml (OE) - EUR 26
* Loctite 5970 300ml (OEM) - EUR 18
* Elring Dirko 70ml - EUR 5

{|
|[[File:A003989982010_sealant_compound_50ml.jpg|thumb|none|A003989982010 sealing compound 50ml]]
|[[File:Loctite_SI_5970_sealant_300ml.jpg|thumb|none|Loctite 5970 sealing compound 300ml]]
|[[File:Elring_dirko_sealant_black.jpg|thumb|none|Elring Dirko sealant 70ml]]
|}

==== Cleaner ====
It must be made sure that the sealing surfaces are ABSOLUTELY clean of any dirt, oil, or moisture BEFORE applying the new sealant. Mercedes instructions recommend using Loctite 7200 to remove old pieces of gasket sealant and Loctite 7063 to prepare surface for the new sealant.

{|
|
{|
|
* Loctite 7200 (EUR 15) 400 ml spray - Parts Cleaner - gasket remover. Removes gasket sealants in 10-15 minutes.
Removes all types of chemical gaskets eliminating excessive scraping. Softens chemical gaskets quickly. Will not run, even on vertical surfaces. Removes cured chemical gaskets by softening the gasket material on the flanges, avoiding excessive scraping. Dissolves also sealants, adhesives, carbon deposits, and dried oils. Once applied the product foams, preventing run off from the desired location. Application: Protect painted surfaces, as Gasket Remover attacks the paint. Hold can upright and spray from distance of about 20 - 30 cm onto the flange or surface. Allow 10 - 15 minutes to soften the gasket, for silicone gaskets 30 minutes are necessary. Remove gasket with a soft scraper. Wipe the surface with a rag. Repeat procedure if it is necessary.
|}

{|
|
* Loctite 7063 (EUR 12) 400 ml spray - Parts Cleaner - general purpose. For use prior to bonding and sealing applications. Leaves no residue.
** A001986717110 (EUR 10) 150ml spray
Excellent for surface preparation. High cleaning power. Rapid flash off. Use to prepare surfaces to be bonded. The product flashes off very quickly and it allows cleaning directly prior to adhesive/sealant application. It is non-corrosive and non toxic. Application: Spray a sufficient amount of product on the surface to be cleaned and wipe while still wet to ensure heavy contamination and excess solvent is removed.
|}

|
|[[File:Loctite-sf-7200.jpg|100px]]
|[[File:Loctite-sf-7063.jpg|100px]]
|}

==== Breather hoses ====
Over time the rubber hoses get hard and cannot be removed without breaking. It is therefore recommended to replace 4 hoses and 3 connectors. Connectors are usual in good condition and require no replacement. For some of the hoses FEBI BILSTEIN is OE mananufacturer.

[[File:W220_engine_112_intake_manifold_EPC.png|thumb|none|Parts in [[EPC]] related to intake manifold (Engine 112)]]
{|
|[[File:W220_A1120180182_A1120180282_A1120180382_A1179901578_Part_load_crankcase_ventilation_hoses_connected_together.jpg|thumb|none|A1120180182, A1120180282, A1120180382 hoses joined together]]
|[[File:W220_A1120180482_Full-load_crankcase_ventilation_hose_connected.jpg|thumb|none|A1120180482 hose one side connected to engine air intake cover]]
|}

Engine 112 and 113 (S350/S500):
{|
|[[File:A1120180482_full_load_crankcase_ventilation_hose.jpg|200px]]
|
* A1120180482 (140) - Full-load crankcase ventilation hose - EUR 11
** Trucktec automotive 0218048 - EUR 4
** Topran 407867 - EUR 5
|}
{|
|[[File:A1120180182_part_load_crankcase_ventilation_hose.jpg|200px]]
|
* A1120180182 (146) - Part load crankcase ventilation hose - EUR 9
** Febi bilstein 33850 - EUR 4
** Swag 10933850 - EUR 4
|}
{|
|[[File:A1120180282_part_load_crankcase_ventilation_hose.jpg|200px]]
|
* A1120180282 (152) - Part load crankcase ventilation hose - EUR 6
** Febi bilstein 33851 - EUR 3
** Topran 407865 - EUR 3
|}
{|
|[[File:A1120180382_part_load_crankcase_ventilation_hose.jpg|200px]]
|
* A1120180382 (170) - Part load crankcase ventilation hose - EUR 9
** Febi bilstein 33852 - EUR 3
** Swag 10933852 - EUR 3
|}
{|
|[[File:A1179901578_part_load_crankcase_ventilation_connector.jpg|200px]]
|
* A1179901578 (164) - Part load crankcase ventilation connector x3 - EUR 2
|}

=== Remove/install cover for crankcase ventilation (WIS instruction) ===

ENGINES 112, 113

{|
|Shown on engine 113:
* 1 - Bolts
* 2 - Cover for crankcase ventilation
* 3 - Cylinder head covers
|[[File:W220_crankcase_ventilation2.jpg|300px]]
|}

{|
|Sealant path - Shown on engine 113:
* 2 - Cover for crankcase ventilation
* A - Sealant
* Arrow - Sealant, bolt holes
|[[File:W220_crankcase_ventilation1.jpg|300px]]
|}

Work instructions:
* Aluminum bolts (1). Installation: Install new bolts.
* Clean. When cylinder head covers are installed, cover oil ducts with rags. Do not use any sharp-edged tools or abrasive paper as this will damage the sealing surfaces. Oil channels clogged with sealant will damage the engine. Cleaning materials: Loctite 7200 and Loctite 7063 cleaning spray 150 ml (A001986717110).
* Sealant. Apply a 2.0 mm thick bead of sealant (A), observing the bolt holes (arrow). Do not spread the silicone bead. Process sealant within 10 minutes. To avoid leaks, use only the silicone sealant specified in the repair materials - Loctite 5970 sealant (A0039899820)!

Torque specification:
* Bolt, crankcase ventilation cover to the cylinder head valve cover: 4 Nm (Engine 112 and 113)

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lo_-nrhoRyU|320|left|Mercedes M112 M113 Engine Breather Oil Leak Fix Kit|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m316C8PmCcY|320|left|Mercedes M112 V6, M113 V8 oil breather resealing|frame}}
|}

== Cylinder head cover ==
Cylinder head cover is also popular source for oil leaks on M112 and M113 engines. It is highly recommended to use OE gasket as it provides the best quality and requires no additional sealant.

=== Cylinder head cover gaskets ===

Engine 112 (S350):
* A1120160221 Cylinder head cover gasket (left) - EUR 20
* A1120160321 Cylinder head cover gasket (right) - EUR 20

[[File:W220_gasket_A1120160221_A1120160321.jpg|thumb|none|Engine 112 cylinder head cover gaskets (left and right)]]

Engine 113 (S500):
* A1120160221 Cylinder head cover gasket (left) - EUR 22
* A1120160321 Cylinder head cover gasket (right) - EUR 22

[[File:W220_gasket_A1130160221_A1130160321.jpg|thumb|none|Engine 113 cylinder head cover gaskets (left and right)]]

=== Remove/install cylinder head cover (WIS instruction) ===


{|
|Shown on engine 112.945:
* 1 - Engine cover with integrated air filter
* 2 - Right cylinder head cover
* 3 - Left cylinder head cover
* 4 - Right ignition coils
* 5 - Left ignition coils
* 6 - Right connection
* 7 - Left connection
* 8 - Left connection
|[[File:W220_remove_install_cylinder_head_cover.png|300px]]
|}

Remove/install:
# Remove engine trim panel with integrated air filter (1). Unclip covering on front side of engine. Remove air filter by pulling vertically up and off the cylinder head covers.
# Remove air filter (Model 215.374, 220.074/174)
# Unscrew guide tube for the automatic transmission oil dipstick
# Detach right ignition coils (4), left ignition coils (5) on right cylinder head cover (2) and left cylinder head cover (3). Except engines 112.911/914/915/917/954, Engine 113.969.
# Disconnect spark plug connectors. Installation: Observe marking for spark plug connectors on the cylinder head covers and ignition coils.
# Pull off vent hoses on right connector (6) and on left connector (7) of the right cylinder head cover (2) and left cylinder head cover (3).
# Pull off engine vent hose on left connector (8) of left cylinder head cover (3).
# Disconnect fuel line at fuel rail. Only on vehicles with rigid fuel line and: Model 211.061/065/070/076/276, Model 215.374, Model 220.074, Model 230.474/475. Release fuel pressure through service valve!
# Remove right cylinder head cover (2) and left cylinder head cover (3). Installation: Check cylinder head covers for leaks, see: Ensure cylinder head cover gasket is correctly installed.
# Install in the reverse order
# Check for leaks with engine running

Torque specifications:
* Cylinder head cover bolt: 9 Nm (Engine 112 and 113)
* Bolt, ignition coils to cylinder head cover: 8 Nm (Engine 112 and 113)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 112 except 112.945/951/960/961)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 112.945)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 35 Nm (Engine 112.960/961 AMG)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 113.940/941/942/943/944/945/946/948/960/961/962/963/964/965/966/967/968/969/971/980/981/982/984/986/988)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 113.987)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 113.990/991)
* Fuel feed line to fuel distributor: 38 Nm (Engine 113.992/993/995)


Ensure gasket of cylinder head cover is correctly installed:
{|
|
# Inspect gasket (arrows) of cylinder head cover to ensure it is correctly located in the sealing groove of the cylinder head cover, particularly at the rear of the cylinder head.
|[[File:W220_ensure_gasket_on_cilinder_cover_correctly_installed.png|300px]]
|}

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2F5qcmbQT6w|320|left|How to change the Valve Cover Gasket on W220 S500 Mercedes|frame}}
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzlQj7x_ozk|320|left|Mercedes Benz Valve Cover gasket Replacement Made Easy – Mercedes Benz S Class S500 W220|frame}}
|}

Tail lights

2021-07-15T00:48:20Z

Masood: /* TURN SIGNAL, L CHECK LAMP! */

Back to: [[WIS 82.10 Exterior Lights]]
==Location – Tail Lights==
[[File:W220_EPC_tail_lamp.png]]

{|
|[[File:W220_lights_rear.png]]
|
* 8. LED brake lamp
* 9. Turn signal lamp - PY21W
* 10. Tail and standing lamp, side marker - P21/4W
* 11. Backup lamp - P21W
* 12. Licence plate lamps - C5W
* 13. Tail lamp, rear fog lamp - P21/4W
* 14. High mounted brake lamp LED
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_tail_lamp_assemblies.png]]
|
* 1. Turn signal lamp (white socket)
* 2. Tail, parking, standing and side marker lamp (red socket)
* 3. Tail lamp, rear fog lamp (red socket)
* 4. Backup lamp (black socket)
|}

== Facelift (after 30/09/2002) ==
[[File:W220_taillight_facelift.jpg|300px]]

* A2208200764 - tail lamp left
* A2208200864 - tail lamp right

== Pre-facelift (before 01/09/2002) ==
[[File:W220_taillight_prefacelift.jpg|300px]]

The only difference in pre-facelift and facelift taillights are lens which in facelift version has four transparent horizontal lines instead of pre-facelift's two.

* A2208200164 - tail lamp left
* A2208200264 - tail lamp right

== Aftermarket ==

=== DEPO ===
{|
|[[File:W220_taillight_facelift_depo.jpg|300px]]
|[[File:W220_DEPO_left_taillight_label.jpg|thumb|none|Label on the left lens reads "DEPO 01-440-1919L-R".]]
|[[File:W220_DEPO_right_taillight_label.jpg|thumb|none|Label on the right lens reads "DEPO 01-440-1919R-R".]]
|}

'''Note:''' DEPO taillight should not be mixed with the original facelift taillights, since DEPO taillight is a bit lighter (see below).
[[File:W220_taillights_DEPO_left_Original_right.jpg|thumb|none|DEPO on the left, original facelift taillight on the right.]]

=== DEPO All Smoke ===

[[File:W220_taillights_DEPO_all_smoke.jpg|thumb|none|All smoke lens produced by DEPO.]]

== Removing ==

# Open your trunk and take the cover out.
# There are four screws, remove them (see below).

[[File:W220_taillight_remove.jpg|thumb|none|Taillight kept in by four screws.]]

== LED board ==
For the break light W220 taillights use LED board.

* A2208200411 - right
* A2208200311 - left

There seem to be several versions of LED boards.
V?/V2.2 which has square LED bulbs and V2.5/V2.6 which has round LED bulbs.

{|
|[[File:W220_A2208200311_v2.6_front.jpg|thumb|none|A2208200311 v2.6 front.]]
|[[File:W220_A2208200311_v2.6_back.jpg|thumb|none|A2208200311 v2.6 back.]]
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_A2208200411_v2.5_front.jpg|thumb|none|A2208200411 v2.5 front.]]
|[[File:W220_A2208200411_v2.5_back.jpg|thumb|none|A2208200411 v2.5 back.]]
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_A2208200311_v2.2_front.jpg|thumb|none|A2208200311 v2.2 front.]]
|[[File:W220_A2208200311_v2.2_back.jpg|thumb|none|A2208200311 v2.2 back.]]
|[[File:W220_A2208200411_v2.2_front.jpg|thumb|none|A2208200411 v2.2 front.]]
|[[File:W220_A2208200411_v2.2_back.jpg|thumb|none|A2208200411 v2.2 back.]]
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_A2208200411_front.jpg|thumb|none|A2208200411 front.]]
|[[File:W220_A2208200411_back.jpg|thumb|none|A2208200411 back.]]
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_A2208200311_DEPO_front.jpg|thumb|none|DEPO A2208200311-compatible front.]]
|[[File:W220_A2208200311_DEPO_back.jpg|thumb|none|DEPO A2208200311-compatible back. Reads "DEPO MD E4 0211985 17-440-1919L".]]
|[[File:W220_A2208200411_DEPO_front.jpg|thumb|none|DEPO A2208200411-compatible front.]]
|[[File:W220_A2208200411_DEPO_back.jpg|thumb|none|DEPO A2208200411-compatible back. Reads "DEPO MD E4 0211985 17-440-1919R".]]
|}

=== Defective LED board ===

Even a single failed LED bulb in the LED board can cause the board to be disabled by the vehicle. If this happens, the error message will appear on the instrument cluster and for the duty of brake lamp will be delegated to fog lamp.

{|
|[[File:W220_tail_light_brake_light_on.jpg|thumb|none|Tail light with brake light on.]]
|[[File:W220_tail_light_brake_backup_light_on.jpg|thumb|none|Tail light with backup brake light on.]]
|}

=== Replacing LED bulbs ===


The whole LED board unit is expensive. LED bulbs can be replaced by soldering.

# Remove the taillight from vehicle.
# Take the circuit board out, it is attached by one screw (see below).
# Use a 12v adapter by connecting it to the circuit board and see which bulbs are damaged.
# Remove damaged bulbs and install new ones using a soldering iron. Make sure the new led lights are positioned the same exact way the old ones were, otherwise they will not work.
# Once this is done, you can insert the circuit board back into the car. Make sure prior to this all the lights are working.

You can buy square LED bulbs by using this keyword "LED 7.62MM 638NM ALINGAP RED CLR - LTL912SEKSA".

[[File:W220_taillight_LED_board_remove.jpg|thumb|none|Screw to detach the LED board.]]
[[File:W220_taillight_LED_board_check.jpg|thumb|none|Testing the board with 12v power source.]]
[[File:W220_taillight_LED_board_resoldered.jpg|thumb|none|LED board with bulbs resoldered.]]

== Washer ==
[[File:W220_A2208260091_taillight_washer.jpg|thumb|none|A2208260091 fits for both sides.]]

== TURN SIGNAL, L CHECK LAMP! ==

The following video shows how to permanently repair and eliminate this warning.

'''Step by step Video'''

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/snaa4tnnVCc|320|center|W220 TURN SIGNAL, CHECK LAMP (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

== Oxidized contacts of rear turn signal indicators==
A common issue with the rear turn signal indicators is oxidized contacts on the bulb socket.
{|
|[[File:W220 Rear Left Tail Light and Fog Light Bulb Holder.JPG|thumb|none|Rear left tail and fog light with bulb]]
|[[File:W220 Rear Tail Light and Fog Light Bulb Holder Showing Contact Marks.JPG|thumb|none|Oxidized contact marks on the socket.]]
|}

Obviously if the turn signal indicators are showing signs of oxidation then so are all the other bulb holders and their sockets.

* Remove the boot lining as required.
* Remove the rear light assembly. [10mm socket]
* Note the position of the coloured bulb holders.
** Black - reverse light
** White - turn indicator
** Pink - fog and tail lights
* Remove just '''one bulb holder''' from its socket. Even though the bulb holders are all uniquely coded it is easier to modify them one at a time.
* Note the position of the contact marks on the bulb holder socket. The contact marked with a black felt tip pen is the earth or zero volts contact.
* Clean the contact points on the bulb holder socket with solvent.
* Lightly scuff the contact points on the bulb holder socket with sand paper.
* Using a soldering iron tin the contact points on the bulb holder socket.
{|
|[[File:W220 Tinning the Rear Tail Light and Fog Light Bulb Holder Socket.JPG|300px]]
|[[File:W220 Example of Tinned Bulb Holder Socket.JPG|300px]]
|}
* Repeat for the other contact points on this socket.
* Now move your attention to the mating bulb holder.
* Inspect this bulb holder socket's contact points and note the oxidation.
* Remove the globe.
* Remove just one contact by depressing the tab with a small screw driver.
* Clean the contact areas on the bulb holder contact with solvent.
* Lightly scuff the contact areas on the bulb holder contact with sand paper.
* Using a soldering iron tin the contact areas on the bulb holder contact.
{|
|[[File:W220 Example of Oxidized Contacts on a Bulb Holder.JPG|200px]]
|[[File:W220 Contact Removed from a Bulb Holder.JPG|300px]]
|[[File:W220 Example of Tinning Contact on a Bulb Holder.JPG|300px]]
|}
* Reinsert the bulb holder contact into the bulb holder '''BEFORE''' doing the next one.
* Repeat for all other contacts.
* Reinstall the bulb holder in its socket, '''BEFORE moving on to the next one'''.
* Repeat for all other bulb holders and sockets.
* Check the resistances of each light and its circuit by using a DVM to measure the resistances from the cable connection. Clip one side of the DVM to the earth lead marked with a black felt tip pen in the photo above.
** Reverse light (black bulb holder) 0.6 Ohms.
** Turn indicator (white bulb holder) 0.6 Ohms.
** Tail light (one filament in pink bulb holder) 0.6 Ohms.
** Fog light (one filament in pink bulb holder) 5 Ohms.
* Reinstall the rear tail light assembly and repeat for the other side.

== Resources ==
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/2085186-rear-fog-lamp-license-plate-left.html#post9518458

Tail lights

2021-07-15T00:44:33Z

Masood:

Back to: [[WIS 82.10 Exterior Lights]]
==Location – Tail Lights==
[[File:W220_EPC_tail_lamp.png]]

{|
|[[File:W220_lights_rear.png]]
|
* 8. LED brake lamp
* 9. Turn signal lamp - PY21W
* 10. Tail and standing lamp, side marker - P21/4W
* 11. Backup lamp - P21W
* 12. Licence plate lamps - C5W
* 13. Tail lamp, rear fog lamp - P21/4W
* 14. High mounted brake lamp LED
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_tail_lamp_assemblies.png]]
|
* 1. Turn signal lamp (white socket)
* 2. Tail, parking, standing and side marker lamp (red socket)
* 3. Tail lamp, rear fog lamp (red socket)
* 4. Backup lamp (black socket)
|}

== Facelift (after 30/09/2002) ==
[[File:W220_taillight_facelift.jpg|300px]]

* A2208200764 - tail lamp left
* A2208200864 - tail lamp right

== Pre-facelift (before 01/09/2002) ==
[[File:W220_taillight_prefacelift.jpg|300px]]

The only difference in pre-facelift and facelift taillights are lens which in facelift version has four transparent horizontal lines instead of pre-facelift's two.

* A2208200164 - tail lamp left
* A2208200264 - tail lamp right

== Aftermarket ==

=== DEPO ===
{|
|[[File:W220_taillight_facelift_depo.jpg|300px]]
|[[File:W220_DEPO_left_taillight_label.jpg|thumb|none|Label on the left lens reads "DEPO 01-440-1919L-R".]]
|[[File:W220_DEPO_right_taillight_label.jpg|thumb|none|Label on the right lens reads "DEPO 01-440-1919R-R".]]
|}

'''Note:''' DEPO taillight should not be mixed with the original facelift taillights, since DEPO taillight is a bit lighter (see below).
[[File:W220_taillights_DEPO_left_Original_right.jpg|thumb|none|DEPO on the left, original facelift taillight on the right.]]

=== DEPO All Smoke ===

[[File:W220_taillights_DEPO_all_smoke.jpg|thumb|none|All smoke lens produced by DEPO.]]

== Removing ==

# Open your trunk and take the cover out.
# There are four screws, remove them (see below).

[[File:W220_taillight_remove.jpg|thumb|none|Taillight kept in by four screws.]]

== LED board ==
For the break light W220 taillights use LED board.

* A2208200411 - right
* A2208200311 - left

There seem to be several versions of LED boards.
V?/V2.2 which has square LED bulbs and V2.5/V2.6 which has round LED bulbs.

{|
|[[File:W220_A2208200311_v2.6_front.jpg|thumb|none|A2208200311 v2.6 front.]]
|[[File:W220_A2208200311_v2.6_back.jpg|thumb|none|A2208200311 v2.6 back.]]
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_A2208200411_v2.5_front.jpg|thumb|none|A2208200411 v2.5 front.]]
|[[File:W220_A2208200411_v2.5_back.jpg|thumb|none|A2208200411 v2.5 back.]]
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_A2208200311_v2.2_front.jpg|thumb|none|A2208200311 v2.2 front.]]
|[[File:W220_A2208200311_v2.2_back.jpg|thumb|none|A2208200311 v2.2 back.]]
|[[File:W220_A2208200411_v2.2_front.jpg|thumb|none|A2208200411 v2.2 front.]]
|[[File:W220_A2208200411_v2.2_back.jpg|thumb|none|A2208200411 v2.2 back.]]
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_A2208200411_front.jpg|thumb|none|A2208200411 front.]]
|[[File:W220_A2208200411_back.jpg|thumb|none|A2208200411 back.]]
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_A2208200311_DEPO_front.jpg|thumb|none|DEPO A2208200311-compatible front.]]
|[[File:W220_A2208200311_DEPO_back.jpg|thumb|none|DEPO A2208200311-compatible back. Reads "DEPO MD E4 0211985 17-440-1919L".]]
|[[File:W220_A2208200411_DEPO_front.jpg|thumb|none|DEPO A2208200411-compatible front.]]
|[[File:W220_A2208200411_DEPO_back.jpg|thumb|none|DEPO A2208200411-compatible back. Reads "DEPO MD E4 0211985 17-440-1919R".]]
|}

=== Defective LED board ===

Even a single failed LED bulb in the LED board can cause the board to be disabled by the vehicle. If this happens, the error message will appear on the instrument cluster and for the duty of brake lamp will be delegated to fog lamp.

{|
|[[File:W220_tail_light_brake_light_on.jpg|thumb|none|Tail light with brake light on.]]
|[[File:W220_tail_light_brake_backup_light_on.jpg|thumb|none|Tail light with backup brake light on.]]
|}

=== Replacing LED bulbs ===


The whole LED board unit is expensive. LED bulbs can be replaced by soldering.

# Remove the taillight from vehicle.
# Take the circuit board out, it is attached by one screw (see below).
# Use a 12v adapter by connecting it to the circuit board and see which bulbs are damaged.
# Remove damaged bulbs and install new ones using a soldering iron. Make sure the new led lights are positioned the same exact way the old ones were, otherwise they will not work.
# Once this is done, you can insert the circuit board back into the car. Make sure prior to this all the lights are working.

You can buy square LED bulbs by using this keyword "LED 7.62MM 638NM ALINGAP RED CLR - LTL912SEKSA".

[[File:W220_taillight_LED_board_remove.jpg|thumb|none|Screw to detach the LED board.]]
[[File:W220_taillight_LED_board_check.jpg|thumb|none|Testing the board with 12v power source.]]
[[File:W220_taillight_LED_board_resoldered.jpg|thumb|none|LED board with bulbs resoldered.]]

== Washer ==
[[File:W220_A2208260091_taillight_washer.jpg|thumb|none|A2208260091 fits for both sides.]]

== TURN SIGNAL, L CHECK LAMP! ==
[[File:W220_taillight_facelift.jpg|300px]]

== Oxidized contacts of rear turn signal indicators==
A common issue with the rear turn signal indicators is oxidized contacts on the bulb socket.
{|
|[[File:W220 Rear Left Tail Light and Fog Light Bulb Holder.JPG|thumb|none|Rear left tail and fog light with bulb]]
|[[File:W220 Rear Tail Light and Fog Light Bulb Holder Showing Contact Marks.JPG|thumb|none|Oxidized contact marks on the socket.]]
|}

Obviously if the turn signal indicators are showing signs of oxidation then so are all the other bulb holders and their sockets.

* Remove the boot lining as required.
* Remove the rear light assembly. [10mm socket]
* Note the position of the coloured bulb holders.
** Black - reverse light
** White - turn indicator
** Pink - fog and tail lights
* Remove just '''one bulb holder''' from its socket. Even though the bulb holders are all uniquely coded it is easier to modify them one at a time.
* Note the position of the contact marks on the bulb holder socket. The contact marked with a black felt tip pen is the earth or zero volts contact.
* Clean the contact points on the bulb holder socket with solvent.
* Lightly scuff the contact points on the bulb holder socket with sand paper.
* Using a soldering iron tin the contact points on the bulb holder socket.
{|
|[[File:W220 Tinning the Rear Tail Light and Fog Light Bulb Holder Socket.JPG|300px]]
|[[File:W220 Example of Tinned Bulb Holder Socket.JPG|300px]]
|}
* Repeat for the other contact points on this socket.
* Now move your attention to the mating bulb holder.
* Inspect this bulb holder socket's contact points and note the oxidation.
* Remove the globe.
* Remove just one contact by depressing the tab with a small screw driver.
* Clean the contact areas on the bulb holder contact with solvent.
* Lightly scuff the contact areas on the bulb holder contact with sand paper.
* Using a soldering iron tin the contact areas on the bulb holder contact.
{|
|[[File:W220 Example of Oxidized Contacts on a Bulb Holder.JPG|200px]]
|[[File:W220 Contact Removed from a Bulb Holder.JPG|300px]]
|[[File:W220 Example of Tinning Contact on a Bulb Holder.JPG|300px]]
|}
* Reinsert the bulb holder contact into the bulb holder '''BEFORE''' doing the next one.
* Repeat for all other contacts.
* Reinstall the bulb holder in its socket, '''BEFORE moving on to the next one'''.
* Repeat for all other bulb holders and sockets.
* Check the resistances of each light and its circuit by using a DVM to measure the resistances from the cable connection. Clip one side of the DVM to the earth lead marked with a black felt tip pen in the photo above.
** Reverse light (black bulb holder) 0.6 Ohms.
** Turn indicator (white bulb holder) 0.6 Ohms.
** Tail light (one filament in pink bulb holder) 0.6 Ohms.
** Fog light (one filament in pink bulb holder) 5 Ohms.
* Reinstall the rear tail light assembly and repeat for the other side.

== Resources ==
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/2085186-rear-fog-lamp-license-plate-left.html#post9518458

WIS 82.25 Signalling Equipment/Emergency Alarm System

2021-06-23T17:36:15Z

Masood:

==Issues - Turn Signal Indicators==
Applying a turn signal produces an error code such as "check the right turn indicator globe" and fast (double frequency) flashing of the dashboard light. The external turn indicators still flash at the correct frequency.

The issue may only happen occasionally and resets when the ignition is turned off, although the ECU stores a fault.

It can be very frustrating especially when you check all the turn indicator globes and they appear all OK.

There are several possible causes for the error code such as "check the right turn indicator globe".

===Issue 1 - Problem with External Mirror Turn Signal Indicators===
A common issue with the External Mirror Turn Signal LEDs is a broken wire where the wires flex when the mirror folds.

One or all of the LEDs work intermittently caused by bad connections on the LED printed circuit boards.

The LEDs in an external mirror may be glowing dimly.

The problem can be, but is most likely '''NOT''', the passenger side door control module (DCM) which controls the seat heater, seat controls, window and mirrors.

====Solution 1A - Broken Wires in External Mirror Turn Signal LEDs====
* Remove the mirror by pressing in a small spring clip at the top.
* Release the mirror housing cover by also pressing in a spring clip near the outer edge.
* Unclip the LED unit from the housing.
* Plug the LED unit into the connector.
* Turn the emergency flashers on (no need for the ignition switch to be on).
* Test by carefully pulling and pushing the thin, identical black wires where they bend when the mirror folds until you find a faulty wire.
* Usually they break inside the insulation, which is not visible.
* It may also be inside the mirror structure where a splice is not possible.
* Remove the insulation at the break.
* Splice in an additional two-inch piece of wire which should allow you to pull the broken ends out of the structure
* Complete the repair by splicing together each broken end.
* Take the time to very carefully seal the seams on the LED unit with clear RTV silicone, which helps prevent water getting into the unit.
* Reinstall

Problem solved - less than an hour and no cost.

* With thanks to wallyp at reference: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1707657-s500-w220-mirror-turn-signal-issues.html

====Solution 1B - Faulty LEDs or LED Joints in External Mirror Turn Signal LEDss====
* Remove the mirror by pressing in a small spring clip at the top.
* Release the mirror housing cover by also pressing in a spring clip near the outer edge.
* Unclip the LED unit from the housing.
* Test the individual LEDs on the bench with a suitable power supply.
* The OEM LED joints are crimped.
* Resolder all the LED joints.
* If any LEDs are faulty they can be replaced individually.
* Factory LEDs are 4.5W.
* Typical replacements are 5W but don’t have enough resistance.
* Solder three 33 Ohm, 1/2 W resistors from Radio Shack, in to the wiring.
* Clean and lubricate all the connectors with rubber grease (helps prevent water ingress).
* Put rubber grease on the seals.
* Reinstall

== Issue - L. or R. TURN SIG. RFLECTR - VISIT WORKSHOP==

The following video shows how to repair and restore your original outside mirror turn signal light's LED bulbs.
The same lights are used in not just 2000-2006 S500 and S430 but also 2001 to 6 CL55 AMG, S55 AMG, S600, 2004-6 CL600, and 2005-6 CL65 and 2006 S65 AMG

'''Complete Video'''

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/z1O9IbiC3VU|320|center|W220 Turn Sig Reflector Light Restoration (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

Engine Hood

2021-05-31T19:45:39Z

Masood: /* Hood Lift Support (Shocks) Replacement */

[[File:W220_attachment_parts_engine_hood_EPC.png|thumb|none|Parts related to engine hood in [[EPC]]]]

== Mercedes star hood emblem ==

Original Mercedes hood star emblem costs EUR 40. W221 star which fits W220 and costs the same, provides more elegant look as it has full chrome basis.
{|
|[[File:A2108800186_W220_hood_star.jpg|thumb|none|W220 star A2108800186]]
|[[File:A2218800086_W221_hood_star.jpg|thumb|none|W221 star A2218800086 (fits W220)]]
|}

=== Comparison of the original and counterfeit emblem ===
On eBay there are several Chinese merchants who sell counterfeit star emblems for as low as 15 USD. Comparison of the original and counterfeit star emblem below. The chrome parts of the counterfeit emblem are of a very good quality - slight quality differences in the chrome can be seen only with very close inspection. The basis of the original emblem has a blue plastic pad, which is missing on the counterfeit emblem.
{|
|[[File:W221_mercedes_hood_star_emblem_packaging_original_counterfeit.jpg|thumb|none|Original vs counterfeit star emblem packaging]]
|[[File:W221_mercedes_hood_star_emblem_chrome_original_counterfeit.jpg|thumb|none|Original vs counterfeit star emblem]]
|[[File:W221_mercedes_hood_star_emblem_basis_original_counterfeit.jpg|thumb|none|Original vs counterfeit star emblem basis]]
|}

The U-bolt of the counterfeit emblem turned out to be of poor quality as it broke off when trying to install the counterfeit emblem.

{|
|[[File:W221_mercedes_hood_star_emblem_counterfeit_broken_u-bolt.jpg|thumb|none|Counterfeit star emblem with U-bolt broken]]
|[[File:W221_mercedes_hood_star_emblem_counterfeit_parts.jpg|thumb|none|Counterfeit star emblem separated into parts]]
|}

Fortunately, the parts from the counterfeit emblem can be installed on the basis of the original broken emblem.

{|
|[[File:W221_mercedes_hood_star_emblem_counterfeit_parts_original_basis.jpg|thumb|none|Parts from the counterfeit emblem with the original basis]]
|[[File:W220_mercedes_hood_star_emblem_spring_star_installation.jpg|thumb|none|Installation: preloading the spring and hooking it into the star]]
|[[File:W220_mercedes_hood_star_emblem_original_basis_counterfeit_star.jpg|thumb|none|Star from the counterfeit emblem installed on the original basis]]
|}

=== Remove/install Mercedes star ===


{|
|
Shown on model 202:
* 1 - Mercedes star
* 2 - U-bolt
|[[File:W220_remove_install_mercedes_star_hood.png|200px]]
|[[File:W220_remove_install_mercedes_star.png|200px]]
|}

Remove:
# Open engine hood
# Turn spring bracket (2) 90° to left with assembly tool (202 589 11 63 00 ''or standard pliers'').
# Remove Mercedes star (1) upward from engine hood. Carefully remove Mercedes star (1). Danger of damaging paint.

Install:
# Insert Mercedes star (1) from above into engine hood. Carefully install Mercedes star (1). Danger of damaging paint.
# Turn spring bracket (2) 90° to right with mounting tool. Note correct installation positions.
# Close engine hood

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEFFcR7bWaA|320|left|How to change Mercedes hood emblem / sign|frame}}
|}

== Spring at engine hood ==
{|
|[[File:W220_spring_at_engine_hood_A2208800529_broken.jpg|thumb|none|Spring at engine hood (broken)]]
|[[File:W220_spring_at_engine_hood_A2208800529_removed.jpg|thumb|none|Spring at engine hood removed]]
|[[File:W220_spring_at_engine_hood_A2208800529_installed.jpg|thumb|none|Spring at engine hood installed]]
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_spring_at_engine_hood_A2208800529.jpg|thumb|none|Spring at engine hood A2208800529 (EUR 8)]]
|[[File:W220_spring_at_engine_hood_A2208800529_back.jpg|thumb|none|Spring at engine hood A2208800529 (back)]]
|}

== Hood Lift Support (Shocks) Replacement ==
{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/W1r6QTnNRvs|320|center|W220 Hood Lift Support Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

Engine Hood

2021-05-31T19:41:56Z

Masood: /* Spring at engine hood */

[[File:W220_attachment_parts_engine_hood_EPC.png|thumb|none|Parts related to engine hood in [[EPC]]]]

== Mercedes star hood emblem ==

Original Mercedes hood star emblem costs EUR 40. W221 star which fits W220 and costs the same, provides more elegant look as it has full chrome basis.
{|
|[[File:A2108800186_W220_hood_star.jpg|thumb|none|W220 star A2108800186]]
|[[File:A2218800086_W221_hood_star.jpg|thumb|none|W221 star A2218800086 (fits W220)]]
|}

=== Comparison of the original and counterfeit emblem ===
On eBay there are several Chinese merchants who sell counterfeit star emblems for as low as 15 USD. Comparison of the original and counterfeit star emblem below. The chrome parts of the counterfeit emblem are of a very good quality - slight quality differences in the chrome can be seen only with very close inspection. The basis of the original emblem has a blue plastic pad, which is missing on the counterfeit emblem.
{|
|[[File:W221_mercedes_hood_star_emblem_packaging_original_counterfeit.jpg|thumb|none|Original vs counterfeit star emblem packaging]]
|[[File:W221_mercedes_hood_star_emblem_chrome_original_counterfeit.jpg|thumb|none|Original vs counterfeit star emblem]]
|[[File:W221_mercedes_hood_star_emblem_basis_original_counterfeit.jpg|thumb|none|Original vs counterfeit star emblem basis]]
|}

The U-bolt of the counterfeit emblem turned out to be of poor quality as it broke off when trying to install the counterfeit emblem.

{|
|[[File:W221_mercedes_hood_star_emblem_counterfeit_broken_u-bolt.jpg|thumb|none|Counterfeit star emblem with U-bolt broken]]
|[[File:W221_mercedes_hood_star_emblem_counterfeit_parts.jpg|thumb|none|Counterfeit star emblem separated into parts]]
|}

Fortunately, the parts from the counterfeit emblem can be installed on the basis of the original broken emblem.

{|
|[[File:W221_mercedes_hood_star_emblem_counterfeit_parts_original_basis.jpg|thumb|none|Parts from the counterfeit emblem with the original basis]]
|[[File:W220_mercedes_hood_star_emblem_spring_star_installation.jpg|thumb|none|Installation: preloading the spring and hooking it into the star]]
|[[File:W220_mercedes_hood_star_emblem_original_basis_counterfeit_star.jpg|thumb|none|Star from the counterfeit emblem installed on the original basis]]
|}

=== Remove/install Mercedes star ===


{|
|
Shown on model 202:
* 1 - Mercedes star
* 2 - U-bolt
|[[File:W220_remove_install_mercedes_star_hood.png|200px]]
|[[File:W220_remove_install_mercedes_star.png|200px]]
|}

Remove:
# Open engine hood
# Turn spring bracket (2) 90° to left with assembly tool (202 589 11 63 00 ''or standard pliers'').
# Remove Mercedes star (1) upward from engine hood. Carefully remove Mercedes star (1). Danger of damaging paint.

Install:
# Insert Mercedes star (1) from above into engine hood. Carefully install Mercedes star (1). Danger of damaging paint.
# Turn spring bracket (2) 90° to right with mounting tool. Note correct installation positions.
# Close engine hood

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEFFcR7bWaA|320|left|How to change Mercedes hood emblem / sign|frame}}
|}

== Spring at engine hood ==
{|
|[[File:W220_spring_at_engine_hood_A2208800529_broken.jpg|thumb|none|Spring at engine hood (broken)]]
|[[File:W220_spring_at_engine_hood_A2208800529_removed.jpg|thumb|none|Spring at engine hood removed]]
|[[File:W220_spring_at_engine_hood_A2208800529_installed.jpg|thumb|none|Spring at engine hood installed]]
|}

{|
|[[File:W220_spring_at_engine_hood_A2208800529.jpg|thumb|none|Spring at engine hood A2208800529 (EUR 8)]]
|[[File:W220_spring_at_engine_hood_A2208800529_back.jpg|thumb|none|Spring at engine hood A2208800529 (back)]]
|}

== Hood Lift Support (Shocks) Replacement ==
{|
|[[File:W220_spring_at_engine_hood_A2208800529_broken.jpg|thumb|none|Spring at engine hood (broken)]]
|}

Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement

2021-05-27T19:46:48Z

Masood: Created page with "'''Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement''' '''Front Wheel Speed Sensor (ABS Sensor) Replacement''' {| |{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/xslAnSERqBI|320|center|W220 Front Wheel Spee..."

'''Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement'''

'''Front Wheel Speed Sensor (ABS Sensor) Replacement'''

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/xslAnSERqBI|320|center|W220 Front Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

Index

2021-05-27T19:44:48Z

Masood: /* WIS 40 Wheels, Wheel Alignment Check */

<div class="noautonum">__TOC__</div>
'''Mercedes-Benz S-Class W220 Wiki Encyclopedia'''

=='''START HERE''' at the List of Key Words With Links to Relevant Sections==
[[Key Words with Links to Relevant Sections]]

==W220 Wiki Purpose and Guidelines==
[[W220 Encyclopedia:About]]

==Template for W220 Wiki Articles (Copy and Paste to start a new article)==
[[Template for W220 Wiki Articles]]

==WIS 00 Overall Vehicle General Information==
* [[Acronyms and Abbreviations]]
* [[Components | Component numbers and locations]]
* [[BRABUS]]
* [[Buying Guide]]
* Changes between previous S-Class models
* [[Facelift | Changes introduced in Facelift Models]]
* [[Option codes]] (listed in vehicle [[data card]])
* [[Differences between ECE and US models]]
* [[Differences between LHD and RHD models]]
* [[Differences between 2003 and 2004 models]]
* [[M-B Fault Error Codes/Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)| Fault Error Codes/Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)]]
* [[Workshop Training Manuals for All Mercedes-Benz|Manuals]]
* [[Operator’s Manual]]
* [[Recall Campaigns]]
* [[Reset Service Interval Indicator]]
* S320
* S350
* S400
* S430
* S500
* S600
* S55
* S63
* S65
* [[VIN (Vehicle Identification Number)]]
* W215 (CL-Class)
* [[W220 S-Class Brochure]]
* [[W220 in Movies]]
* [[Crash]]
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes_W220 Wikipedia Article on Mercedes-Benz S-Class (W220)]

== WIS 01 Engine, Cylinder Head and Crankshaft Housing, Oil Pan ==
* WIS 01.00 General
* [[WIS 01.10 Complete Engine]]
* [[crankcase ventilation cylinder head cover|WIS 01.20 Crankcase Ventilation, Cylinder Head Cover]]
* WIS 01.30 Cylinder Head
* WIS 01.40 Cylinder Crankcase, Timing Case Cover, End Cover
* WIS 01.45 Oil Pan

== WIS 03 Crank Assembly==
* WIS 03.00 General
* WIS 03.10 Connecting Rods, Pistons
* [[WIS 03.20 Crankshaft]]
** [[Crankshaft Position Sensor]]
* WIS 03.30 Flywheel, Drive Disc/Plate, Vibration Damper, Starter Ring Gear

==WIS 05 Engine Timing==
* WIS 05.00 General
* WIS 05.10 Timing Chain Drive, Toothed Belt Drive, Gear Drive
* WIS 05.20 Camshaft, Camshaft Adjustment
** [[Camshaft position sensor]]
* WIS 05.30 Valve, Rocker Arm, Rocker Arm Assembly
* [[Sensors - Engine Timing]]

==WIS 07 Mixture formation==
* WIS 07.00 General
* WIS 07.02 Injection Pump, Plugin Pump, High Pressure Pump
* WIS 07.03 Injection Jets, Injection Valves, Lines
* WIS 07.04 Sender, Feeler, Sensors
* [[WIS 07.07 Air Volume Gauge, Air Mass Gauge]]
* WIS 07.09 Vacuum System
* WIS 07.16 Diesel Injection System, Common Rail
* WIS 07.40 Fuel Filter, Fuel Supply
* [[WIS 07.41 LH Sequential Multiport Fuel Injection System]]
* [[WIS 07.61 Gasoline Engine and Injection System ME]]

==WIS 09 Air Intake, Turbocharging==
* [[WIS 09.10 Air Filter]]
* WIS 09.20 Intake manifold, Intake Manifold Preheater
* WIS 09.30 Intake Air Preheater
* WIS 09.40 Turbocharger
* WIS 09.40 Compressor

==WIS 13 Air Compressor, Belt Drives==
* WIS 13.20 Belt Drive General
* WIS 13.21 Multi-belt Drive
* [[Serpentine belt|WIS 13.22 Single-belt Drive]]

==WIS 14 Exhaust mainfold, engine brake, emission control system==
* WIS 14.10 Exhaust mainfold
* WIS 14.15 Engine brake
* [[Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR)|WIS 14.20 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR)]]
* WIS 14.30 Secondary air injection
* WIS 14.40 Exhaust aftertreatment, AdBlue

==WIS 15 Electrical System, Engine==
* [[WIS 15.00 General]]
* [[WIS 15.10 Ignition System General]]
* WIS 15.18 Cable Sets
* WIS 15.20 Preheating System
* [[WIS 15.30 Starter Motor]]
* [[Alternator | WIS 15.40 Generator / Alternator]]
* WIS 15.50 Oil Pressure Sensor
* WIS 15.60 Temperature Sensor
* [[Midcity SmartKey starter]]

==WIS 18 Oil pump, Oil Filter, Oil Cooler==
* [[WIS 18.00 General]]
* WIS 18.10 Oil Pump
* [[WIS 18.20 Oil Filter, Internal Combustion Engine]]
* WIS 18.30 Oil Cooling
* WIS 18.40 Oil Sensor

==WIS 20 Engine Cooling System==
* [[WIS 20.00 General]]
* [[WIS 20.10 Coolant Pump, Coolant Thermostat]]
* [[WIS 20.20 Radiator, Coolant Hoses]]
* [[WIS 20.40 Fan, Fan Clutch]]

==WIS 22 Engine Mounts / Suspension==
* [[Engine mounts|WIS 22.10 Engine Mounts, Engine Brackets]]

==WIS 27 Automatic Transmission==
* [[WIS 27.00 Transmission - General]]
* [[WIS 27.19 Transmission – Electrical System]]
* [[WIS 27.20 Torque Converter]]
* [[WIS 27.35 Valve Body Housing]]
* WIS 27.40 Housing
* WIS 27.50 Gear Set
* WIS 27.51 Clutch Assembly, Multidisk Brake
* WIS 27.55 Automatic Transmission, Oil Cooling System
* [[WIS 27.60 Gearshift, Control]]

==WIS 30 Regulation, Speed Control System==
* WIS 30.16 Electronic Engine Throttle Control
* [[WIS 30.30 Cruise Control (CC), Distronic (DTR)]]
* WIS 36 Speed Limiter (GB, GBE, GBL)

==WIS 32 Suspension==
* [[WIS 32.00 General]]
* WIS 32.20 Steel Springs, Torsion Bars, Nveaumat
* [[Airmatic|WIS 32.22 Air Suspension / Airmatic]]
* WIS 32.25 Shock Absorbers, Damper Struts, Spring Struts
* WIS 32.30 Level Control
* WIS 32.31 Level Control with Chassis Lowering
* WIS 32.32 Level Control with Adaptive Damping System (ADS)
* WIS 32.33 Ground Clearance Compensator (NR/ENR)
* WIS 32.34 Anti Roll Governor (WR)
* WIS 32.35 Stabilizer
* WIS 32.40 Hydroneumatic Suspension
* [[ABC|WIS 32.50 Active Body Control (ABC)]]

==WIS 33 Front Axle==
* [[WIS 33.00 Wheel Bearings Front Axle]]
* [[Front axle|WIS 33.10 Complete Front Axle]]
* WIS 33.30 Drive, Differential Gear, Front Drive Shafts

==WIS 35 Rear Axle==
* [[WIS 35.30 Final Drive, Rear Drive Shafts]]
* [[WIS 35.31 Rear Axle Centre Assembly]]

==WIS 40 Wheels, Wheel Alignment Check==
* [[Wheels, Tyres|WIS 40.10 Wheels, Tyres]]
* [[WIS 40.15 Tyre Pressure Monitor, Run Flat Indicator]]
* [[Wheel alignment]]
* [[Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement]]

==WIS 41 Propeller/Drive Shaft==
* [[WIS 41.10 Propeller Shaft]]
* [[WIS 41.40 Intermediate Bearing|Flex Disc and Intermediate Bearing]]

==WIS 42 Brakes – Hydraulics and Mechanical Components==
* WIS 42.10 Service Brake Description
* WIS 42.15 Service Brake
** M-B Bulletin re Squealing Front Brakes P-B-42.10/51d December 5, 2005
** [[ReplaceBrakePads|W220 - Replace Front and Rear Brake Pads]]
** [[ReplaceFrontRotors|W220 - Replace Front Disc Rotors]]
** [[ReplaceCalipers|W220 - Replace Brake Calipers]]

* [[WIS 42.20 Parking Brake]]
* WIS 42.30 Anti-locking System ABS
* [[WIS 42.45 Electronic Stability Program, Telligent® Stability Control]]
* WIS 42.50 Hydraulics
** [[Brake Fluid Replacement]]

==WIS 46 Steering==
* [[Steering wheel|WIS 46.10 Steering Wheel, Steering Column Tube, Steering Shaft, Steering Lock]]
* [[Steering wheel heater|WIS 46.11 Steering Wheel Heater]]
* [[WIS 46.15 Steering Column Adjustment]]
* [[WIS 46.30 Power Steering Pump]]
* [[Steering linkage|WIS 46.40 Steering Linkage]]

== WIS 47 Fuel System==
* [[WIS 47.00 Fuel Filler Cover]]
* [[Fuel tank|WIS 47.10 Fuel tank]]
* [[Fuel pump filter|WIS 47.20 Fuel Pump, Filter]]
* WIS 47.30 Evaporative Emission Control System
* [[Liquefied Petroleum Gas (LPG)]]

==WIS 49 Exhaust System==
* [[WIS 49.10 Exhaust Pipes, Catalytic Converter, Mufflers]]

==WIS 54 Electrical System, Equipment and Instruments==
* [[WIS 54.00 General]]
** [[M-B Fault Error Codes/Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)]]
* [[Battery|WIS 54.10 Battery, Power Supply, Voltage Converter]]
** [[Auxiliary battery]]
* [[Fuses|WIS 54.15 Fuse and Relay Box]]
* [[SAM (Signal Acquisition / Actuation Module)]]
* [[WIS 54.21 Control Units/Modules]]
* [[Instrument cluster|WIS 54.30 Instrument Cluster, Display Instrument, Warning System]]
* [[Fanfare horns|WIS 54.35 Signalling System (Fanfare Horns)]]
* [[Parktronic|WIS 54.65 Parktronic System (PTS)]]


==WIS 58 Tools and Accessories==
* [[Code Readers]]
* [[EPC (Electronic Parts Catalog/Catalogue)]]
* [[Operator’s Manual]]
* [[Technical Service Bulletins (TSB)]]
* [[Special Tools]]
* [[STAR Diagnosis System (SDS) or Diagnosis Assistance System (DAS)]]
* [[STAR Service Manual on CD]]
* [[Workshop Training Manuals for All Mercedes-Benz]]

== WIS 67 Windshield and Windows==
* [[Windows|WIS 67.00 General]]
* [[Windshield|WIS 67.10 Windshield]]
* WIS 67.20 Rear Window
* WIS 67.29 Heated Rear Window – Electrical System
* [[WIS 67.39 Electric Side Windows]]

==WIS 68 Interior Equipment==
* WIS 68.00 General
** [[Dashboard]]
** [[Remove/install accelerator pedal]]
** [[Removing and installing cover below instrument panel (left)]]
** [[Removing and installing front floor covering (left)]]
** [[Removing and installing cover below instrument panel (right)]]
** [[Removing and installing front floor covering (right)]]
** [[Remove/install paneling on B-pillar]]
* WIS 68.05 Garage Door Opener
* [[WIS 68.10 Instrument Panel]]
** [[Glove compartment]]
* [[WIS 68.20 Center Console]]
* WIS 68.30 Trim, Decorative Strips
* [[rearview mirror|WIS 68.40 Rearview Mirror]]
* WIS 68.49 Rearview Mirror – Electrical System
* WIS 68.50 Curtail, Roller Sun Blind, Load Compartment Cover, Securing Cargo
* [[Sun visor]]
* [[Leather]]

==WIS 72 Doors==
* [[Doors | WIS 72.00 General]]
* [[Front doors|WIS 72.10 Front Door]]
* [[Rear doors|WIS 72.12 Rear Door]]
* [[WIS 72.29 Doors Electrical System]]
** [[Door control module]]
* [[WIS 72.30 Shutting Assist (SHI) / Close Assist / Self Close]]
** [[Pneumatic System Equipment (PSE)]]
** [[Pneumatic System Equipment (PSE) Pump]]
** [[Arduino Controlled PSE Pump]]

==WIS 77 Sliding Roof, Soft Top, Mountings==
* WIS 77.00 General
* [[WIS 77.20 Electric Sliding Roof]]
* [[Roof rack]]

==WIS 80 Central Locking, Convenience Feature, Drive Authorization System==
* [[WIS 80.20 Central Locking System, Interior Central Locking]]
* WIS 80.30 Infrared Remote Control
* WIS 80.35 Radio-Frequency Actuated Remote Control
* WIS 80.40 Power Locking
* [[WIS 80.45 Convenience Feature (CF) / Convenience Locking System]]
* WIS 80.50 Anti-theft Alarm System (ATA), Interior Protection, Tow Away Protection
* [[WIS 80.57 Drive Authorization System]]
* [[Keyless-Go | WIS 80.61 Keyless-Go/Keyless Entry]]
* [[SmartKey]]

==WIS 82 Electrical System==
* [[Fuses|Fuses and Relay Boxes]]
* [[WIS 82.00 Electrical System, Body, General]]
* [[WIS 82.10 Exterior Lights]]
** [[License Plate Lights]]
** [[Head Lights]]
** [[Tail Lights]]
** [[Side Lights]]
* [[WIS 82.15 Headlamp Cleaning System]]
* [[WIS 82.20 Interior Illumination]]
** [[Full LED Interior]]
** [[Interior Door Handle Illumination]]
* [[WIS 82.25 Signalling Equipment/Emergency Alarm System]]
* [[WIS 82.30 Windshield Wiper]]
* [[windshield washing system|WIS 82.35 Windshield Washing System]]
* [[WIS 82.62 Speaker, Amplifier, Antenna]]
* WIS 82.64 CD Changer
* WIS 82.70 Telephone, Voice Control System
* [[WIS 82.85 Navigation and Communication System (CNS, ICS, COMAND, FleetBoa) A40/3]]
**[[RADIO|MB RADIO (AUDIO 10/30)]]
**[[D2B COMAND|COMAND]] ([[D2B]]) (before 01/09/2003)
***[[Mercedes Player MP40]]
**[[MOST COMAND-APS|COMAND-APS]] ([[MOST]]) (after 01/09/2003)
***[[MOST Audio Gateway|Audio Gateway]]
***[[MOST Sound Amplifier|Sound Amplifier]]
***[[MOST CD Changer|CD Changer]]
***[[MOST Navigation|Navigation]]
***[[MOST Television|Television]]
***[[MOST Satellite Radio|Satellite Radio]]
** [[Rear view camera]]
** [[COMAND Multimedia interface]]
***[[Connects2 CT90-MC04]]
***[[Car Solutions RGB-LE-V3.1]]
** [[Aftermarket COMAND replacements]]
* [[WIS 82.90 On-board Communication System, Multi-function Steering Wheel]]
** [[WIS 82.90 On-board Communication System, Multi-function Steering Wheel|CAN (Controller Area Network)]]
* WIS 82.95 Emergency Call System

==WIS 83 Climate Control==
* WIS 83.00 General
* WIS 83.10 Ventilation
* WIS 83.20 Heater
* [[WIS 83.30 Air Conditioning]]
* [[WIS 83.40 Automatic Climate Control (ACC) or Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC)]]
** [[Cabin Ventilation Dust Filter]]
** [[Activated Charcoal Filter (ACF)]]
* WIS 83.45 Air conditioner housing
* WIS 83.50 Rear air conditioning
* WIS 83.60 Rear compartment heater
* [[Auxiliary heater|WIS 83.70 Stationary heater, auxiliary heater, heater booster]]

==WIS 88 Detachable Body Components, Exterior Flaps==
* WIS 88.10 Fenders
* [[WIS 88.20 Bumpers]]
* WIS 88.40 [[Engine Hood]], Front Flap
* [[Trunk|WIS 88.50 Trunk/Boot]]
* WIS 88.60 Exterior Flaps
* [[WIS 88.70 Exterior Mirrors]]
* [[WIS 88.79 Exterior Mirrors - Electrical System]]
* WIS 88.80 Cover Strips
* [[WIS 88.85 Trim Strips]]
** [[Remove/install bottom engine compartment paneling]]

==WIS 90 Paintwork==
* [[Paintwork|WIS 90.00 General]]
* WIS 90.10 Paintwork Metal Surface
* WIS 90.20 Paintwork Plastic Surface
* WIS 90.30 Paint Care

==WIS 91 Seats, Bunks, Restraint Systems==
* [[Front seats|WIS 91.10 Front Seats]]
* [[Rear seats|WIS 91.12 Rear Seats]]
* [[WIS 91.16 Head-rest/Restraint]]
* WIS 91.20 Occasional Seat, Integrated Child Seat
* WIS 91.25 Multicontour seat
* WIS 91.27 Center Armrest
* WIS 91.29 Seat, Electrical System
* [[WIS 91.30 Seat Heater, Seat Ventilation]]
* [[WIS 91.40 Seat Belts, Emergency Tensioning Retractors]]
* WIS 91.60 Airbag, Pedestrian Protection

Brakes

2021-05-27T19:13:03Z

Masood:

'''Regular Flush Every Two Years'''

Brake fluid DOT4 is hydroscopic (absorbs water) and needs to be exchanged every two years under the maintenance schedule. A local dealer quoted $95 for this task. Plan for between 1-1.5 hrs if you DIY.

'''Warnings'''
* It is critically important to use the DOT rating specified in the owner’s manual.
* Brake fluid is hazardous. Wear latex gloves, safety glasses, and protect the paint of your car.

'''DIY Brake Fluid Flush'''
* Suck out old fluid in reservoir using a miti-vac or a turkey baster.
* Top off with NEW UNOPENED DOT-4 PLUS fluid ONLY!
* Connect Power Bleeder which has been filled with NEW UNOPENED DOT-4 PLUS fluid!
* Pressurize the brake system with the Power Bleeder (138KPa (20 psi) via the integrated pump).
* Bleed all four callipers, LR, RR, LF and then RF.
* Inspect for leaks.
* Depressurize the system, CAUTION: DO NOT SPRAY THE FLUID, otherwise you will be getting a new paint job.
* Do a manual check of brake pressure
* Make a final check of the level of fluid in the brake reservoir.
* Record Brake Flush in Maintenance Records.
* Dispose of old brake fluid responsibly .

TIP: If possible alternate brake fluid colour from one flush to the next. The difference in colour gives good confidence that everything is flushed out.

'''Quantity of Brake Fluid Required for a Thorough Flush'''
It will use about 3L for a full and thorough flush.

The following video shows how to completely flush and replace the Brake Fluid using the Pressure Vacuum method.

'''Complete Video'''

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/GfosobLjGQE|320|center|W220 Brake Fluid Flush (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

ReplaceCalipers

2021-05-27T19:08:32Z

Masood: Created page with "'''Replace Brake Calipers''' This video shows how to replace the rear driver caliper in a left steered car. The procedure is very similar for the other wheels. '''Rear Dri..."

'''Replace Brake Calipers'''

This video shows how to replace the rear driver caliper in a left steered car. The procedure is very similar for the other wheels.

'''Rear Driver Brake Caliper Replacement'''

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/V41YHnSI0AM|320|center|W220 Rear Brake Caliper Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

Index

2021-05-27T19:06:01Z

Masood: /* WIS 42 Brakes – Hydraulics and Mechanical Components */

<div class="noautonum">__TOC__</div>
'''Mercedes-Benz S-Class W220 Wiki Encyclopedia'''

=='''START HERE''' at the List of Key Words With Links to Relevant Sections==
[[Key Words with Links to Relevant Sections]]

==W220 Wiki Purpose and Guidelines==
[[W220 Encyclopedia:About]]

==Template for W220 Wiki Articles (Copy and Paste to start a new article)==
[[Template for W220 Wiki Articles]]

==WIS 00 Overall Vehicle General Information==
* [[Acronyms and Abbreviations]]
* [[Components | Component numbers and locations]]
* [[BRABUS]]
* [[Buying Guide]]
* Changes between previous S-Class models
* [[Facelift | Changes introduced in Facelift Models]]
* [[Option codes]] (listed in vehicle [[data card]])
* [[Differences between ECE and US models]]
* [[Differences between LHD and RHD models]]
* [[Differences between 2003 and 2004 models]]
* [[M-B Fault Error Codes/Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)| Fault Error Codes/Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)]]
* [[Workshop Training Manuals for All Mercedes-Benz|Manuals]]
* [[Operator’s Manual]]
* [[Recall Campaigns]]
* [[Reset Service Interval Indicator]]
* S320
* S350
* S400
* S430
* S500
* S600
* S55
* S63
* S65
* [[VIN (Vehicle Identification Number)]]
* W215 (CL-Class)
* [[W220 S-Class Brochure]]
* [[W220 in Movies]]
* [[Crash]]
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes_W220 Wikipedia Article on Mercedes-Benz S-Class (W220)]

== WIS 01 Engine, Cylinder Head and Crankshaft Housing, Oil Pan ==
* WIS 01.00 General
* [[WIS 01.10 Complete Engine]]
* [[crankcase ventilation cylinder head cover|WIS 01.20 Crankcase Ventilation, Cylinder Head Cover]]
* WIS 01.30 Cylinder Head
* WIS 01.40 Cylinder Crankcase, Timing Case Cover, End Cover
* WIS 01.45 Oil Pan

== WIS 03 Crank Assembly==
* WIS 03.00 General
* WIS 03.10 Connecting Rods, Pistons
* [[WIS 03.20 Crankshaft]]
** [[Crankshaft Position Sensor]]
* WIS 03.30 Flywheel, Drive Disc/Plate, Vibration Damper, Starter Ring Gear

==WIS 05 Engine Timing==
* WIS 05.00 General
* WIS 05.10 Timing Chain Drive, Toothed Belt Drive, Gear Drive
* WIS 05.20 Camshaft, Camshaft Adjustment
** [[Camshaft position sensor]]
* WIS 05.30 Valve, Rocker Arm, Rocker Arm Assembly
* [[Sensors - Engine Timing]]

==WIS 07 Mixture formation==
* WIS 07.00 General
* WIS 07.02 Injection Pump, Plugin Pump, High Pressure Pump
* WIS 07.03 Injection Jets, Injection Valves, Lines
* WIS 07.04 Sender, Feeler, Sensors
* [[WIS 07.07 Air Volume Gauge, Air Mass Gauge]]
* WIS 07.09 Vacuum System
* WIS 07.16 Diesel Injection System, Common Rail
* WIS 07.40 Fuel Filter, Fuel Supply
* [[WIS 07.41 LH Sequential Multiport Fuel Injection System]]
* [[WIS 07.61 Gasoline Engine and Injection System ME]]

==WIS 09 Air Intake, Turbocharging==
* [[WIS 09.10 Air Filter]]
* WIS 09.20 Intake manifold, Intake Manifold Preheater
* WIS 09.30 Intake Air Preheater
* WIS 09.40 Turbocharger
* WIS 09.40 Compressor

==WIS 13 Air Compressor, Belt Drives==
* WIS 13.20 Belt Drive General
* WIS 13.21 Multi-belt Drive
* [[Serpentine belt|WIS 13.22 Single-belt Drive]]

==WIS 14 Exhaust mainfold, engine brake, emission control system==
* WIS 14.10 Exhaust mainfold
* WIS 14.15 Engine brake
* [[Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR)|WIS 14.20 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR)]]
* WIS 14.30 Secondary air injection
* WIS 14.40 Exhaust aftertreatment, AdBlue

==WIS 15 Electrical System, Engine==
* [[WIS 15.00 General]]
* [[WIS 15.10 Ignition System General]]
* WIS 15.18 Cable Sets
* WIS 15.20 Preheating System
* [[WIS 15.30 Starter Motor]]
* [[Alternator | WIS 15.40 Generator / Alternator]]
* WIS 15.50 Oil Pressure Sensor
* WIS 15.60 Temperature Sensor
* [[Midcity SmartKey starter]]

==WIS 18 Oil pump, Oil Filter, Oil Cooler==
* [[WIS 18.00 General]]
* WIS 18.10 Oil Pump
* [[WIS 18.20 Oil Filter, Internal Combustion Engine]]
* WIS 18.30 Oil Cooling
* WIS 18.40 Oil Sensor

==WIS 20 Engine Cooling System==
* [[WIS 20.00 General]]
* [[WIS 20.10 Coolant Pump, Coolant Thermostat]]
* [[WIS 20.20 Radiator, Coolant Hoses]]
* [[WIS 20.40 Fan, Fan Clutch]]

==WIS 22 Engine Mounts / Suspension==
* [[Engine mounts|WIS 22.10 Engine Mounts, Engine Brackets]]

==WIS 27 Automatic Transmission==
* [[WIS 27.00 Transmission - General]]
* [[WIS 27.19 Transmission – Electrical System]]
* [[WIS 27.20 Torque Converter]]
* [[WIS 27.35 Valve Body Housing]]
* WIS 27.40 Housing
* WIS 27.50 Gear Set
* WIS 27.51 Clutch Assembly, Multidisk Brake
* WIS 27.55 Automatic Transmission, Oil Cooling System
* [[WIS 27.60 Gearshift, Control]]

==WIS 30 Regulation, Speed Control System==
* WIS 30.16 Electronic Engine Throttle Control
* [[WIS 30.30 Cruise Control (CC), Distronic (DTR)]]
* WIS 36 Speed Limiter (GB, GBE, GBL)

==WIS 32 Suspension==
* [[WIS 32.00 General]]
* WIS 32.20 Steel Springs, Torsion Bars, Nveaumat
* [[Airmatic|WIS 32.22 Air Suspension / Airmatic]]
* WIS 32.25 Shock Absorbers, Damper Struts, Spring Struts
* WIS 32.30 Level Control
* WIS 32.31 Level Control with Chassis Lowering
* WIS 32.32 Level Control with Adaptive Damping System (ADS)
* WIS 32.33 Ground Clearance Compensator (NR/ENR)
* WIS 32.34 Anti Roll Governor (WR)
* WIS 32.35 Stabilizer
* WIS 32.40 Hydroneumatic Suspension
* [[ABC|WIS 32.50 Active Body Control (ABC)]]

==WIS 33 Front Axle==
* [[WIS 33.00 Wheel Bearings Front Axle]]
* [[Front axle|WIS 33.10 Complete Front Axle]]
* WIS 33.30 Drive, Differential Gear, Front Drive Shafts

==WIS 35 Rear Axle==
* [[WIS 35.30 Final Drive, Rear Drive Shafts]]
* [[WIS 35.31 Rear Axle Centre Assembly]]

==WIS 40 Wheels, Wheel Alignment Check==
* [[Wheels, Tyres|WIS 40.10 Wheels, Tyres]]
* [[WIS 40.15 Tyre Pressure Monitor, Run Flat Indicator]]
* [[Wheel alignment]]

==WIS 41 Propeller/Drive Shaft==
* [[WIS 41.10 Propeller Shaft]]
* [[WIS 41.40 Intermediate Bearing|Flex Disc and Intermediate Bearing]]

==WIS 42 Brakes – Hydraulics and Mechanical Components==
* WIS 42.10 Service Brake Description
* WIS 42.15 Service Brake
** M-B Bulletin re Squealing Front Brakes P-B-42.10/51d December 5, 2005
** [[ReplaceBrakePads|W220 - Replace Front and Rear Brake Pads]]
** [[ReplaceFrontRotors|W220 - Replace Front Disc Rotors]]
** [[ReplaceCalipers|W220 - Replace Brake Calipers]]

* [[WIS 42.20 Parking Brake]]
* WIS 42.30 Anti-locking System ABS
* [[WIS 42.45 Electronic Stability Program, Telligent® Stability Control]]
* WIS 42.50 Hydraulics
** [[Brake Fluid Replacement]]

==WIS 46 Steering==
* [[Steering wheel|WIS 46.10 Steering Wheel, Steering Column Tube, Steering Shaft, Steering Lock]]
* [[Steering wheel heater|WIS 46.11 Steering Wheel Heater]]
* [[WIS 46.15 Steering Column Adjustment]]
* [[WIS 46.30 Power Steering Pump]]
* [[Steering linkage|WIS 46.40 Steering Linkage]]

== WIS 47 Fuel System==
* [[WIS 47.00 Fuel Filler Cover]]
* [[Fuel tank|WIS 47.10 Fuel tank]]
* [[Fuel pump filter|WIS 47.20 Fuel Pump, Filter]]
* WIS 47.30 Evaporative Emission Control System
* [[Liquefied Petroleum Gas (LPG)]]

==WIS 49 Exhaust System==
* [[WIS 49.10 Exhaust Pipes, Catalytic Converter, Mufflers]]

==WIS 54 Electrical System, Equipment and Instruments==
* [[WIS 54.00 General]]
** [[M-B Fault Error Codes/Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)]]
* [[Battery|WIS 54.10 Battery, Power Supply, Voltage Converter]]
** [[Auxiliary battery]]
* [[Fuses|WIS 54.15 Fuse and Relay Box]]
* [[SAM (Signal Acquisition / Actuation Module)]]
* [[WIS 54.21 Control Units/Modules]]
* [[Instrument cluster|WIS 54.30 Instrument Cluster, Display Instrument, Warning System]]
* [[Fanfare horns|WIS 54.35 Signalling System (Fanfare Horns)]]
* [[Parktronic|WIS 54.65 Parktronic System (PTS)]]


==WIS 58 Tools and Accessories==
* [[Code Readers]]
* [[EPC (Electronic Parts Catalog/Catalogue)]]
* [[Operator’s Manual]]
* [[Technical Service Bulletins (TSB)]]
* [[Special Tools]]
* [[STAR Diagnosis System (SDS) or Diagnosis Assistance System (DAS)]]
* [[STAR Service Manual on CD]]
* [[Workshop Training Manuals for All Mercedes-Benz]]

== WIS 67 Windshield and Windows==
* [[Windows|WIS 67.00 General]]
* [[Windshield|WIS 67.10 Windshield]]
* WIS 67.20 Rear Window
* WIS 67.29 Heated Rear Window – Electrical System
* [[WIS 67.39 Electric Side Windows]]

==WIS 68 Interior Equipment==
* WIS 68.00 General
** [[Dashboard]]
** [[Remove/install accelerator pedal]]
** [[Removing and installing cover below instrument panel (left)]]
** [[Removing and installing front floor covering (left)]]
** [[Removing and installing cover below instrument panel (right)]]
** [[Removing and installing front floor covering (right)]]
** [[Remove/install paneling on B-pillar]]
* WIS 68.05 Garage Door Opener
* [[WIS 68.10 Instrument Panel]]
** [[Glove compartment]]
* [[WIS 68.20 Center Console]]
* WIS 68.30 Trim, Decorative Strips
* [[rearview mirror|WIS 68.40 Rearview Mirror]]
* WIS 68.49 Rearview Mirror – Electrical System
* WIS 68.50 Curtail, Roller Sun Blind, Load Compartment Cover, Securing Cargo
* [[Sun visor]]
* [[Leather]]

==WIS 72 Doors==
* [[Doors | WIS 72.00 General]]
* [[Front doors|WIS 72.10 Front Door]]
* [[Rear doors|WIS 72.12 Rear Door]]
* [[WIS 72.29 Doors Electrical System]]
** [[Door control module]]
* [[WIS 72.30 Shutting Assist (SHI) / Close Assist / Self Close]]
** [[Pneumatic System Equipment (PSE)]]
** [[Pneumatic System Equipment (PSE) Pump]]
** [[Arduino Controlled PSE Pump]]

==WIS 77 Sliding Roof, Soft Top, Mountings==
* WIS 77.00 General
* [[WIS 77.20 Electric Sliding Roof]]
* [[Roof rack]]

==WIS 80 Central Locking, Convenience Feature, Drive Authorization System==
* [[WIS 80.20 Central Locking System, Interior Central Locking]]
* WIS 80.30 Infrared Remote Control
* WIS 80.35 Radio-Frequency Actuated Remote Control
* WIS 80.40 Power Locking
* [[WIS 80.45 Convenience Feature (CF) / Convenience Locking System]]
* WIS 80.50 Anti-theft Alarm System (ATA), Interior Protection, Tow Away Protection
* [[WIS 80.57 Drive Authorization System]]
* [[Keyless-Go | WIS 80.61 Keyless-Go/Keyless Entry]]
* [[SmartKey]]

==WIS 82 Electrical System==
* [[Fuses|Fuses and Relay Boxes]]
* [[WIS 82.00 Electrical System, Body, General]]
* [[WIS 82.10 Exterior Lights]]
** [[License Plate Lights]]
** [[Head Lights]]
** [[Tail Lights]]
** [[Side Lights]]
* [[WIS 82.15 Headlamp Cleaning System]]
* [[WIS 82.20 Interior Illumination]]
** [[Full LED Interior]]
** [[Interior Door Handle Illumination]]
* [[WIS 82.25 Signalling Equipment/Emergency Alarm System]]
* [[WIS 82.30 Windshield Wiper]]
* [[windshield washing system|WIS 82.35 Windshield Washing System]]
* [[WIS 82.62 Speaker, Amplifier, Antenna]]
* WIS 82.64 CD Changer
* WIS 82.70 Telephone, Voice Control System
* [[WIS 82.85 Navigation and Communication System (CNS, ICS, COMAND, FleetBoa) A40/3]]
**[[RADIO|MB RADIO (AUDIO 10/30)]]
**[[D2B COMAND|COMAND]] ([[D2B]]) (before 01/09/2003)
***[[Mercedes Player MP40]]
**[[MOST COMAND-APS|COMAND-APS]] ([[MOST]]) (after 01/09/2003)
***[[MOST Audio Gateway|Audio Gateway]]
***[[MOST Sound Amplifier|Sound Amplifier]]
***[[MOST CD Changer|CD Changer]]
***[[MOST Navigation|Navigation]]
***[[MOST Television|Television]]
***[[MOST Satellite Radio|Satellite Radio]]
** [[Rear view camera]]
** [[COMAND Multimedia interface]]
***[[Connects2 CT90-MC04]]
***[[Car Solutions RGB-LE-V3.1]]
** [[Aftermarket COMAND replacements]]
* [[WIS 82.90 On-board Communication System, Multi-function Steering Wheel]]
** [[WIS 82.90 On-board Communication System, Multi-function Steering Wheel|CAN (Controller Area Network)]]
* WIS 82.95 Emergency Call System

==WIS 83 Climate Control==
* WIS 83.00 General
* WIS 83.10 Ventilation
* WIS 83.20 Heater
* [[WIS 83.30 Air Conditioning]]
* [[WIS 83.40 Automatic Climate Control (ACC) or Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC)]]
** [[Cabin Ventilation Dust Filter]]
** [[Activated Charcoal Filter (ACF)]]
* WIS 83.45 Air conditioner housing
* WIS 83.50 Rear air conditioning
* WIS 83.60 Rear compartment heater
* [[Auxiliary heater|WIS 83.70 Stationary heater, auxiliary heater, heater booster]]

==WIS 88 Detachable Body Components, Exterior Flaps==
* WIS 88.10 Fenders
* [[WIS 88.20 Bumpers]]
* WIS 88.40 [[Engine Hood]], Front Flap
* [[Trunk|WIS 88.50 Trunk/Boot]]
* WIS 88.60 Exterior Flaps
* [[WIS 88.70 Exterior Mirrors]]
* [[WIS 88.79 Exterior Mirrors - Electrical System]]
* WIS 88.80 Cover Strips
* [[WIS 88.85 Trim Strips]]
** [[Remove/install bottom engine compartment paneling]]

==WIS 90 Paintwork==
* [[Paintwork|WIS 90.00 General]]
* WIS 90.10 Paintwork Metal Surface
* WIS 90.20 Paintwork Plastic Surface
* WIS 90.30 Paint Care

==WIS 91 Seats, Bunks, Restraint Systems==
* [[Front seats|WIS 91.10 Front Seats]]
* [[Rear seats|WIS 91.12 Rear Seats]]
* [[WIS 91.16 Head-rest/Restraint]]
* WIS 91.20 Occasional Seat, Integrated Child Seat
* WIS 91.25 Multicontour seat
* WIS 91.27 Center Armrest
* WIS 91.29 Seat, Electrical System
* [[WIS 91.30 Seat Heater, Seat Ventilation]]
* [[WIS 91.40 Seat Belts, Emergency Tensioning Retractors]]
* WIS 91.60 Airbag, Pedestrian Protection

ReplaceFrontRotors

2021-03-12T00:40:21Z

Masood: Created page with "'''Replace Front Brake Disc Rotors''' This video shows how to replace the front rotors. '''Front Disc Rotor Replacement''' {| |{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/rmuuIm0FkkU|3..."

'''Replace Front Brake Disc Rotors'''

This video shows how to replace the front rotors.

'''Front Disc Rotor Replacement'''

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/rmuuIm0FkkU|320|center|W220 Front Brake Rotors Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

Index

2021-03-12T00:37:49Z

Masood:

<div class="noautonum">__TOC__</div>
'''Mercedes-Benz S-Class W220 Wiki Encyclopedia'''

=='''START HERE''' at the List of Key Words With Links to Relevant Sections==
[[Key Words with Links to Relevant Sections]]

==W220 Wiki Purpose and Guidelines==
[[W220 Encyclopedia:About]]

==Template for W220 Wiki Articles (Copy and Paste to start a new article)==
[[Template for W220 Wiki Articles]]

==WIS 00 Overall Vehicle General Information==
* [[Acronyms and Abbreviations]]
* [[Components | Component numbers and locations]]
* [[BRABUS]]
* [[Buying Guide]]
* Changes between previous S-Class models
* [[Facelift | Changes introduced in Facelift Models]]
* [[Option codes]] (listed in vehicle [[data card]])
* [[Differences between ECE and US models]]
* [[Differences between LHD and RHD models]]
* [[Differences between 2003 and 2004 models]]
* [[M-B Fault Error Codes/Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)| Fault Error Codes/Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)]]
* [[Workshop Training Manuals for All Mercedes-Benz|Manuals]]
* [[Operator’s Manual]]
* [[Recall Campaigns]]
* [[Reset Service Interval Indicator]]
* S320
* S350
* S400
* S430
* S500
* S600
* S55
* S63
* S65
* [[VIN (Vehicle Identification Number)]]
* W215 (CL-Class)
* [[W220 S-Class Brochure]]
* [[W220 in Movies]]
* [[Crash]]
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes_W220 Wikipedia Article on Mercedes-Benz S-Class (W220)]

== WIS 01 Engine, Cylinder Head and Crankshaft Housing, Oil Pan ==
* WIS 01.00 General
* [[WIS 01.10 Complete Engine]]
* [[crankcase ventilation cylinder head cover|WIS 01.20 Crankcase Ventilation, Cylinder Head Cover]]
* WIS 01.30 Cylinder Head
* WIS 01.40 Cylinder Crankcase, Timing Case Cover, End Cover
* WIS 01.45 Oil Pan

== WIS 03 Crank Assembly==
* WIS 03.00 General
* WIS 03.10 Connecting Rods, Pistons
* [[WIS 03.20 Crankshaft]]
** [[Crankshaft Position Sensor]]
* WIS 03.30 Flywheel, Drive Disc/Plate, Vibration Damper, Starter Ring Gear

==WIS 05 Engine Timing==
* WIS 05.00 General
* WIS 05.10 Timing Chain Drive, Toothed Belt Drive, Gear Drive
* WIS 05.20 Camshaft, Camshaft Adjustment
** [[Camshaft position sensor]]
* WIS 05.30 Valve, Rocker Arm, Rocker Arm Assembly
* [[Sensors - Engine Timing]]

==WIS 07 Mixture formation==
* WIS 07.00 General
* WIS 07.02 Injection Pump, Plugin Pump, High Pressure Pump
* WIS 07.03 Injection Jets, Injection Valves, Lines
* WIS 07.04 Sender, Feeler, Sensors
* [[WIS 07.07 Air Volume Gauge, Air Mass Gauge]]
* WIS 07.09 Vacuum System
* WIS 07.16 Diesel Injection System, Common Rail
* WIS 07.40 Fuel Filter, Fuel Supply
* [[WIS 07.41 LH Sequential Multiport Fuel Injection System]]
* [[WIS 07.61 Gasoline Engine and Injection System ME]]

==WIS 09 Air Intake, Turbocharging==
* [[WIS 09.10 Air Filter]]
* WIS 09.20 Intake manifold, Intake Manifold Preheater
* WIS 09.30 Intake Air Preheater
* WIS 09.40 Turbocharger
* WIS 09.40 Compressor

==WIS 13 Air Compressor, Belt Drives==
* WIS 13.20 Belt Drive General
* WIS 13.21 Multi-belt Drive
* [[Serpentine belt|WIS 13.22 Single-belt Drive]]

==WIS 14 Exhaust mainfold, engine brake, emission control system==
* WIS 14.10 Exhaust mainfold
* WIS 14.15 Engine brake
* [[Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR)|WIS 14.20 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR)]]
* WIS 14.30 Secondary air injection
* WIS 14.40 Exhaust aftertreatment, AdBlue

==WIS 15 Electrical System, Engine==
* [[WIS 15.00 General]]
* [[WIS 15.10 Ignition System General]]
* WIS 15.18 Cable Sets
* WIS 15.20 Preheating System
* [[WIS 15.30 Starter Motor]]
* [[Alternator | WIS 15.40 Generator / Alternator]]
* WIS 15.50 Oil Pressure Sensor
* WIS 15.60 Temperature Sensor
* [[Midcity SmartKey starter]]

==WIS 18 Oil pump, Oil Filter, Oil Cooler==
* [[WIS 18.00 General]]
* WIS 18.10 Oil Pump
* [[WIS 18.20 Oil Filter, Internal Combustion Engine]]
* WIS 18.30 Oil Cooling
* WIS 18.40 Oil Sensor

==WIS 20 Engine Cooling System==
* [[WIS 20.00 General]]
* [[WIS 20.10 Coolant Pump, Coolant Thermostat]]
* [[WIS 20.20 Radiator, Coolant Hoses]]
* [[WIS 20.40 Fan, Fan Clutch]]

==WIS 22 Engine Mounts / Suspension==
* [[Engine mounts|WIS 22.10 Engine Mounts, Engine Brackets]]

==WIS 27 Automatic Transmission==
* [[WIS 27.00 Transmission - General]]
* [[WIS 27.19 Transmission – Electrical System]]
* [[WIS 27.20 Torque Converter]]
* [[WIS 27.35 Valve Body Housing]]
* WIS 27.40 Housing
* WIS 27.50 Gear Set
* WIS 27.51 Clutch Assembly, Multidisk Brake
* WIS 27.55 Automatic Transmission, Oil Cooling System
* [[WIS 27.60 Gearshift, Control]]

==WIS 30 Regulation, Speed Control System==
* WIS 30.16 Electronic Engine Throttle Control
* [[WIS 30.30 Cruise Control (CC), Distronic (DTR)]]
* WIS 36 Speed Limiter (GB, GBE, GBL)

==WIS 32 Suspension==
* [[WIS 32.00 General]]
* WIS 32.20 Steel Springs, Torsion Bars, Nveaumat
* [[Airmatic|WIS 32.22 Air Suspension / Airmatic]]
* WIS 32.25 Shock Absorbers, Damper Struts, Spring Struts
* WIS 32.30 Level Control
* WIS 32.31 Level Control with Chassis Lowering
* WIS 32.32 Level Control with Adaptive Damping System (ADS)
* WIS 32.33 Ground Clearance Compensator (NR/ENR)
* WIS 32.34 Anti Roll Governor (WR)
* WIS 32.35 Stabilizer
* WIS 32.40 Hydroneumatic Suspension
* [[ABC|WIS 32.50 Active Body Control (ABC)]]

==WIS 33 Front Axle==
* [[WIS 33.00 Wheel Bearings Front Axle]]
* [[Front axle|WIS 33.10 Complete Front Axle]]
* WIS 33.30 Drive, Differential Gear, Front Drive Shafts

==WIS 35 Rear Axle==
* [[WIS 35.30 Final Drive, Rear Drive Shafts]]
* [[WIS 35.31 Rear Axle Centre Assembly]]

==WIS 40 Wheels, Wheel Alignment Check==
* [[Wheels, Tyres|WIS 40.10 Wheels, Tyres]]
* [[WIS 40.15 Tyre Pressure Monitor, Run Flat Indicator]]
* [[Wheel alignment]]

==WIS 41 Propeller/Drive Shaft==
* [[WIS 41.10 Propeller Shaft]]
* [[WIS 41.40 Intermediate Bearing|Flex Disc and Intermediate Bearing]]

==WIS 42 Brakes – Hydraulics and Mechanical Components==
* WIS 42.10 Service Brake Description
* WIS 42.15 Service Brake
** M-B Bulletin re Squealing Front Brakes P-B-42.10/51d December 5, 2005
** [[ReplaceBrakePads|W220 - Replace Front and Rear Brake Pads]]
** [[ReplaceFrontRotors|W220 - Replace Front Disc Rotors]]

* [[WIS 42.20 Parking Brake]]
* WIS 42.30 Anti-locking System ABS
* [[WIS 42.45 Electronic Stability Program, Telligent® Stability Control]]
* WIS 42.50 Hydraulics
** [[Brake Fluid Replacement]]

==WIS 46 Steering==
* [[Steering wheel|WIS 46.10 Steering Wheel, Steering Column Tube, Steering Shaft, Steering Lock]]
* [[Steering wheel heater|WIS 46.11 Steering Wheel Heater]]
* [[WIS 46.15 Steering Column Adjustment]]
* [[WIS 46.30 Power Steering Pump]]
* [[Steering linkage|WIS 46.40 Steering Linkage]]

== WIS 47 Fuel System==
* [[WIS 47.00 Fuel Filler Cover]]
* [[Fuel tank|WIS 47.10 Fuel tank]]
* [[Fuel pump filter|WIS 47.20 Fuel Pump, Filter]]
* WIS 47.30 Evaporative Emission Control System
* [[Liquefied Petroleum Gas (LPG)]]

==WIS 49 Exhaust System==
* [[WIS 49.10 Exhaust Pipes, Catalytic Converter, Mufflers]]

==WIS 54 Electrical System, Equipment and Instruments==
* [[WIS 54.00 General]]
** [[M-B Fault Error Codes/Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)]]
* [[Battery|WIS 54.10 Battery, Power Supply, Voltage Converter]]
** [[Auxiliary battery]]
* [[Fuses|WIS 54.15 Fuse and Relay Box]]
* [[SAM (Signal Acquisition / Actuation Module)]]
* [[WIS 54.21 Control Units/Modules]]
* [[Instrument cluster|WIS 54.30 Instrument Cluster, Display Instrument, Warning System]]
* [[Fanfare horns|WIS 54.35 Signalling System (Fanfare Horns)]]
* [[Parktronic|WIS 54.65 Parktronic System (PTS)]]


==WIS 58 Tools and Accessories==
* [[Code Readers]]
* [[EPC (Electronic Parts Catalog/Catalogue)]]
* [[Operator’s Manual]]
* [[Technical Service Bulletins (TSB)]]
* [[Special Tools]]
* [[STAR Diagnosis System (SDS) or Diagnosis Assistance System (DAS)]]
* [[STAR Service Manual on CD]]
* [[Workshop Training Manuals for All Mercedes-Benz]]

== WIS 67 Windshield and Windows==
* [[Windows|WIS 67.00 General]]
* [[Windshield|WIS 67.10 Windshield]]
* WIS 67.20 Rear Window
* WIS 67.29 Heated Rear Window – Electrical System
* [[WIS 67.39 Electric Side Windows]]

==WIS 68 Interior Equipment==
* WIS 68.00 General
** [[Dashboard]]
** [[Remove/install accelerator pedal]]
** [[Removing and installing cover below instrument panel (left)]]
** [[Removing and installing front floor covering (left)]]
** [[Removing and installing cover below instrument panel (right)]]
** [[Removing and installing front floor covering (right)]]
** [[Remove/install paneling on B-pillar]]
* WIS 68.05 Garage Door Opener
* [[WIS 68.10 Instrument Panel]]
** [[Glove compartment]]
* [[WIS 68.20 Center Console]]
* WIS 68.30 Trim, Decorative Strips
* [[rearview mirror|WIS 68.40 Rearview Mirror]]
* WIS 68.49 Rearview Mirror – Electrical System
* WIS 68.50 Curtail, Roller Sun Blind, Load Compartment Cover, Securing Cargo
* [[Sun visor]]
* [[Leather]]

==WIS 72 Doors==
* [[Doors | WIS 72.00 General]]
* [[Front doors|WIS 72.10 Front Door]]
* [[Rear doors|WIS 72.12 Rear Door]]
* [[WIS 72.29 Doors Electrical System]]
** [[Door control module]]
* [[WIS 72.30 Shutting Assist (SHI) / Close Assist / Self Close]]
** [[Pneumatic System Equipment (PSE)]]
** [[Pneumatic System Equipment (PSE) Pump]]
** [[Arduino Controlled PSE Pump]]

==WIS 77 Sliding Roof, Soft Top, Mountings==
* WIS 77.00 General
* [[WIS 77.20 Electric Sliding Roof]]
* [[Roof rack]]

==WIS 80 Central Locking, Convenience Feature, Drive Authorization System==
* [[WIS 80.20 Central Locking System, Interior Central Locking]]
* WIS 80.30 Infrared Remote Control
* WIS 80.35 Radio-Frequency Actuated Remote Control
* WIS 80.40 Power Locking
* [[WIS 80.45 Convenience Feature (CF) / Convenience Locking System]]
* WIS 80.50 Anti-theft Alarm System (ATA), Interior Protection, Tow Away Protection
* [[WIS 80.57 Drive Authorization System]]
* [[Keyless-Go | WIS 80.61 Keyless-Go/Keyless Entry]]
* [[SmartKey]]

==WIS 82 Electrical System==
* [[Fuses|Fuses and Relay Boxes]]
* [[WIS 82.00 Electrical System, Body, General]]
* [[WIS 82.10 Exterior Lights]]
** [[License Plate Lights]]
** [[Head Lights]]
** [[Tail Lights]]
** [[Side Lights]]
* [[WIS 82.15 Headlamp Cleaning System]]
* [[WIS 82.20 Interior Illumination]]
** [[Full LED Interior]]
** [[Interior Door Handle Illumination]]
* [[WIS 82.25 Signalling Equipment/Emergency Alarm System]]
* [[WIS 82.30 Windshield Wiper]]
* [[windshield washing system|WIS 82.35 Windshield Washing System]]
* [[WIS 82.62 Speaker, Amplifier, Antenna]]
* WIS 82.64 CD Changer
* WIS 82.70 Telephone, Voice Control System
* [[WIS 82.85 Navigation and Communication System (CNS, ICS, COMAND, FleetBoa) A40/3]]
**[[RADIO|MB RADIO (AUDIO 10/30)]]
**[[D2B COMAND|COMAND]] ([[D2B]]) (before 01/09/2003)
***[[Mercedes Player MP40]]
**[[MOST COMAND-APS|COMAND-APS]] ([[MOST]]) (after 01/09/2003)
***[[MOST Audio Gateway|Audio Gateway]]
***[[MOST Sound Amplifier|Sound Amplifier]]
***[[MOST CD Changer|CD Changer]]
***[[MOST Navigation|Navigation]]
***[[MOST Television|Television]]
***[[MOST Satellite Radio|Satellite Radio]]
** [[Rear view camera]]
** [[COMAND Multimedia interface]]
***[[Connects2 CT90-MC04]]
***[[Car Solutions RGB-LE-V3.1]]
** [[Aftermarket COMAND replacements]]
* [[WIS 82.90 On-board Communication System, Multi-function Steering Wheel]]
** [[WIS 82.90 On-board Communication System, Multi-function Steering Wheel|CAN (Controller Area Network)]]
* WIS 82.95 Emergency Call System

==WIS 83 Climate Control==
* WIS 83.00 General
* WIS 83.10 Ventilation
* WIS 83.20 Heater
* [[WIS 83.30 Air Conditioning]]
* [[WIS 83.40 Automatic Climate Control (ACC) or Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC)]]
** [[Cabin Ventilation Dust Filter]]
** [[Activated Charcoal Filter (ACF)]]
* WIS 83.45 Air conditioner housing
* WIS 83.50 Rear air conditioning
* WIS 83.60 Rear compartment heater
* [[Auxiliary heater|WIS 83.70 Stationary heater, auxiliary heater, heater booster]]

==WIS 88 Detachable Body Components, Exterior Flaps==
* WIS 88.10 Fenders
* [[WIS 88.20 Bumpers]]
* WIS 88.40 [[Engine Hood]], Front Flap
* [[Trunk|WIS 88.50 Trunk/Boot]]
* WIS 88.60 Exterior Flaps
* [[WIS 88.70 Exterior Mirrors]]
* [[WIS 88.79 Exterior Mirrors - Electrical System]]
* WIS 88.80 Cover Strips
* [[WIS 88.85 Trim Strips]]
** [[Remove/install bottom engine compartment paneling]]

==WIS 90 Paintwork==
* [[Paintwork|WIS 90.00 General]]
* WIS 90.10 Paintwork Metal Surface
* WIS 90.20 Paintwork Plastic Surface
* WIS 90.30 Paint Care

==WIS 91 Seats, Bunks, Restraint Systems==
* [[Front seats|WIS 91.10 Front Seats]]
* [[Rear seats|WIS 91.12 Rear Seats]]
* [[WIS 91.16 Head-rest/Restraint]]
* WIS 91.20 Occasional Seat, Integrated Child Seat
* WIS 91.25 Multicontour seat
* WIS 91.27 Center Armrest
* WIS 91.29 Seat, Electrical System
* [[WIS 91.30 Seat Heater, Seat Ventilation]]
* [[WIS 91.40 Seat Belts, Emergency Tensioning Retractors]]
* WIS 91.60 Airbag, Pedestrian Protection

WIS 33.00 Wheel Bearings Front Axle

2021-03-12T00:34:30Z

Masood:

==Description - Wheel Bearings Front Axle==

[[File:W220 Front Wheel Bearing Main Parts.JPG|600px|center]]

The next diagram shows the ABS slotted disc (also called a tone ring) and the hub seal.
[[File:W220 Front Wheel Hub Rear View.JPG|600px|center]]

[[File:W220 Front Wheel Hub Seal and ABS Tone Ring.JPG|600px|center]]

==Issues - Wheel Bearings Front Axle==
*Bad bearings- need replacement
*Loose bearing nut, need adjustment
*Repacking of bearings

==Part Numbers - Wheel Bearings Front Axle==
These numbers are for a W220 2003 update S500L EU spec.
*Outer wheel bearing: A0029806502
*Inner wheel bearing: A1409810305

Hub seal and ABS Wheel Speed Slotted Disc (ABS Tone Ring):
* A0229979747 (OE) - EUR 40
* FEBI BILSTEIN 24994 - EUR 3

Bearing kits:
* SNR R151.35 - EUR 25

[[File:W220_front_bearing_kit_SNR_R151.35.jpg|thumb|none|SNR Wheel Bearing Kit Front (SNR R151.35)]]

==WARNING - Use of Aftermarket Inner Wheel Bearings Front Axle==
'''WARNING''': Do not use aftermarket inner bearings without carefully checking that they perfectly match a genuine M-B bearing.

In particular notice the shape of the inner shoulder on the inner bearing on the side that is in contact with the axle back flange. Genuine M-B bearings have a small radiused shoulder. Some aftermarket bearings have a square shoulder. (The next diagram shows a complete but good M-B inner bearing compared with aq bad inner bearing. Only the race is shown as the bad bearing had to be destroyed by being ground with an angle grinder to produce a wafer thin section to allow it to be removed. See scorch mark where the split occurred.)

[[File:W220 Front Wheel Inner Bearing Showing Radiused Shoulder.JPG|600px|center]]

The radiused shoulder on the inner bearing fits neatly against the radiused edge on the axle flange. If an inner bearing with a square edge is used it will interfere with this radiused edge and '''the hub will not be in the correct position'''. The area of interference is shown in the next diagram.
[[File:W220 Front Wheel Axle Showing Radiused Edge.JPG|600px|center]]

The consequence of using an inner bearing with a square shoulder is that the wheel hub sits slightly proud by about 1mm to 2mm when installed on the axle. This also means that the clearance between the ABS tone ring and the ABS magnetic sensor is increased by the same amount and causes the speed reading sesnor to not work at all or not work properly. The magnetic sensor needs to be in very close proximity to the slotted ABS tone ring to generate adequate speed signals.

If the car is driven with this situation, after a few minutes, the instrument cluster will show '''ESP Failure''' and '''ABS Failure''' messages along with '''Drive to the nearest workshop''' being indicated.

If the gap is too wide, analysis with Star DAS will show that there is zero or an “implausible” speed signal generated by the front wheel ABS sensor.

The fix is to use genuine inner wheel bearings for the front wheels.

==VIDEO - Removal and installation of races, bearings, seal; packing and adjustment ==
'''Replace inner/outer races, bearings; and seal ring '''

This video shows how to replace both bearings and races, the seal ring; how to pack the bearings with grease; and finally how to adjust the axle nut play to exact Mercedes specifications.

'''Complete Front Wheel Hub Re-haul'''

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/zBpBaqU9kVs|320|center|W220 Front Wheel Hub Re-Haul (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

The video shows part numbers, and prices as of March 2021.

==Replacement - Wheel Bearings Front Axle==
#Raise car to full height.
#Chock rear wheels
#Loosen front wheel nuts.
#Jack up front of car and place on jack stands.
#Remove front wheel
#Remove brake calliper
#Support calliper to remove strain on abs wheel speed and brake wear sensor cables
#Remove Torx bolt securing brake disc to hub
#Remove brake disc.
#Remove dust cap. (For installation, fill the interior of the dust cap with high temperature wheel bearing grease. A smear of silicon will also help prevent any grease from leaking out and contaminating the wheel hub cap.)
#Undo Locking bolt on axle nut.
#Remove axle nut (For installation tighten nut and then back off to achieve 10 to 20 micrometres axial play in brake disc as measured by a magnetic base dial gauge clamped to the disc and measuring end of the axle.)
#Remove wheel hub. (If you are lucky the inner bearing and seal will come out with the hub.) (For installation ensure that there is no grease on the ABS tone ring and ensure that the hub is presented to the axle exactly square so that the inner bearing doesn’t cock on the axle shaft.)
#Clean off any remaining grease from axle.
#If necessary use and angle grinder to grind away part of the inner bearing until it is able to be split and removed from the axle.
#Do a final clean-up of the axle. (For installation, thoroughly coat the axle with high temperature wheel bearing grease before installing the hub.)
#Using a hammer and drift, knock off the ABS tone ring.
#Clean-up the wheel up of any old grease. (For installation, fill the interior of the wheel hub with high temperature wheel bearing grease.)
#Using a suitable diameter piece of bar stock, press out the outer bearing.
#Using a suitable diameter piece of bar stock, press out the inner bearing.
#Clean up the wheel hub.
#Pack the new bearings with high temperature wheel bearing grease. (An easy method is to place half a cup of grease in the corner of a plastic bag. Drop in a bearing and kneed thoroughly until the bearing is saturated with grease.)
#[[File:Packing Wheel Bearings with Grease.jpg|400px|center]]
#Install in the reverse order and repeat for the other front wheel.

''When hammering in ABS Tone Ring, make sure to not bend the ring otherwise wheel speed sensor will not be able to read the rotation speed.''

Engine air filter

2021-02-01T22:50:12Z

Masood: /* DIY Video */

Back to '''[[Index]]'''

=Engine Air/Cleaner/Dust Filter=
==Part Numbers - Engine Air/Cleaner/Dust Filter==
===W220 2003 Update S500L M113===
* Bosch 1 457 433 071
* MB 112 094 00 04
* A1120940604
* MANN C 3698/3-2

==Replace Air Cleaner - Engine Air/Cleaner/Dust Filter==
'''Summary'''
* Remove black intake tubes by pulling towards front of car.
* Lift black plastic cover with mb logo.
* Lift main engine cover and remove from car.
* Flip over, loosen 4 torx screws on each airbox.
* Remove filter, clean airbox out, and reinstall new filter.
* Hand tighten the torx screws.
* Replace main engine cover making sure its seated on maf connection gasket
* Push black intake tubes back on.
* Replace front engine cover.

'''Tip'''

Use an electric screw driver and a set of torx bits. This way you wont have to spend hours hand tightening all those screws back.

'''Reference'''

http://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w220/282013-air-filter.html
===DIY Video===
'''Engine Air Filter DIY'''

This video shows how to replace the two Engine Air Filters

'''Complete Air Filter Replacement'''

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/_HjiusDTcvk|320|center|W220 Engine Air Filter Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

=Cabin Air Filter=
==DIY Video==

'''Engine Air Filter DIY'''

This video shows how to replace the two Cabin Air Filters

'''Complete Cabin Air Filter Replacement'''

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/8WBHg05R13E|320|center|W220 Cabin Air Filter Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

Engine air filter

2021-02-01T22:49:50Z

Masood: /* DIY Video */

Back to '''[[Index]]'''

=Engine Air/Cleaner/Dust Filter=
==Part Numbers - Engine Air/Cleaner/Dust Filter==
===W220 2003 Update S500L M113===
* Bosch 1 457 433 071
* MB 112 094 00 04
* A1120940604
* MANN C 3698/3-2

==Replace Air Cleaner - Engine Air/Cleaner/Dust Filter==
'''Summary'''
* Remove black intake tubes by pulling towards front of car.
* Lift black plastic cover with mb logo.
* Lift main engine cover and remove from car.
* Flip over, loosen 4 torx screws on each airbox.
* Remove filter, clean airbox out, and reinstall new filter.
* Hand tighten the torx screws.
* Replace main engine cover making sure its seated on maf connection gasket
* Push black intake tubes back on.
* Replace front engine cover.

'''Tip'''

Use an electric screw driver and a set of torx bits. This way you wont have to spend hours hand tightening all those screws back.

'''Reference'''

http://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w220/282013-air-filter.html
===DIY Video===
'''Engine Air Filter DIY'''

This video shows how to replace the two Engine Air Filters

'''Complete Air Filter Replacement'''

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/_HjiusDTcvk|320|center|W220 Engine Air Filter Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

=Cabin Air Filter=
==DIY Video==

'''Engine Air Filter DIY'''

This video shows how to replace the two Cabin Air Filters

'''Complete Cabin Air Filter Replacement'''

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/8WBHg05R13E|320|center|W220 Engine Air Filter Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

Engine air filter

2021-02-01T22:48:40Z

Masood:

Back to '''[[Index]]'''

=Engine Air/Cleaner/Dust Filter=
==Part Numbers - Engine Air/Cleaner/Dust Filter==
===W220 2003 Update S500L M113===
* Bosch 1 457 433 071
* MB 112 094 00 04
* A1120940604
* MANN C 3698/3-2

==Replace Air Cleaner - Engine Air/Cleaner/Dust Filter==
'''Summary'''
* Remove black intake tubes by pulling towards front of car.
* Lift black plastic cover with mb logo.
* Lift main engine cover and remove from car.
* Flip over, loosen 4 torx screws on each airbox.
* Remove filter, clean airbox out, and reinstall new filter.
* Hand tighten the torx screws.
* Replace main engine cover making sure its seated on maf connection gasket
* Push black intake tubes back on.
* Replace front engine cover.

'''Tip'''

Use an electric screw driver and a set of torx bits. This way you wont have to spend hours hand tightening all those screws back.

'''Reference'''

http://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w220/282013-air-filter.html
===DIY Video===
'''Engine Air Filter DIY'''

This video shows how to replace the two Engine Air Filters

'''Complete Air Filter Replacement'''

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/_HjiusDTcvk|320|center|W220 Engine Air Filter Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

=Cabin Air Filter=
==DIY Video==

'''Engine Air Filter DIY'''

This video shows how to replace the two Engine Air Filters

'''Complete Air Filter Replacement'''

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/_HjiusDTcvk|320|center|W220 Engine Air Filter Replacement (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

Engine air filter

2021-02-01T22:46:35Z

Masood: /* DIY Video */

Engine air filter

2021-02-01T22:43:58Z

Masood:

Engine belt

2021-02-01T22:39:19Z

Masood: /* Replacing Guide Pulley (Idler Pulley) */

Back to '''[[Index]]'''



==Description==
The Poly-V-belt drive (commonly known as the Serpentine Belt) drives engine components (alternator, AC compressor, etc.) from the engine.

==Layout Diagrams==
Crankshaft turns clockwise.
=== S350/S430/S500 ===
{|
|[[File:W220_poly-V-belt_drive_layout_S500.png]]
|
# Automatic belt tensioner
# ABC tandem pump (pump for power-steering assistance and ABC chassis)
# Air conditioning compressor
# Crankshaft
# Coolant pump
# Generator (alternator)
# Idler pulley

Length: 2380mm
|}


{|
|
6-groove single-belt drive, with AC compressor
* 1 - Crankshaft
* 2 - AC compressor
* 3 - Power steering pump
* 4 - Guide pulley 1
* 5 - Generator
* 6 - Coolant pump and fan
* 7 - Tension pulley
|[[File:W220_6_groove_single-belt_drive.png|300px]]
|}

Part no:
* A0119979792
* Bosch 1987946046 (length 2390mm)
* Continental ctam 6PK2390 (length 2390mm)

=== S55 AMG ===
{|
|[[File:W220_poly-V-belt_drive_layout_S55_AMG.png]]
|The S 55 AMG has two poly-V-belts (belt one shown in purple/belt two shown in black).
# Idler pulley
# Automatic belt tensioner
# ABC tandem pump (pump for power-steering assistance and ABC chassis)
# Air conditioning compressor
# Crankshaft
# Coolant pump
# Generator (alternator)
# Idler pulley
# Automatic belt tensioner
# Supercharger

Length of belt one: 1289 mm

Length of belt two: 2462 mm
|}
=== S600 ===
{|
|[[File:W220_poly-V-belt_drive_layout_S600.png]]
|
# Automatic belt tensioner
# ABC tandem pump (pump for power-steering assistance and ABC chassis)
# Air conditioning compressor
# Crankshaft
# Coolant pump
# Generator (alternator)
# Idler pulley
# Idler pulley
# Idler pulley
Length: 2335 mm
|}

== Replacing belt ==

To remove tension from idler pulley, locate 17mm tensioner bolt located on tensioner bracket (see photo below). Belt obstructs the view so it has to be found by feel.
After locating 17mm bolt, push down the bar counter-clockwise (see photo below).
When putting the belt back on, it is easier to leave the last part of the belt to slide over the water pump pulley as it has no lip or grooves.

[[File:W220_S500_removing_serpentine_belt.jpg|300px]]
[[File:W220_belt_tensioner_bolt.jpg]]

See photo DIY here (S350/S430/S500):
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1582489-drive-belt-idler-change-photo-diy.html

== Replacing Tensioning Device (Tensioner Pulley) ==
'''Complete DIY Video'''

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/ltmyMS7IRQE|320|center|W220 Tensioner Pulley DIY (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

== Replacing Guide Pulley (Idler Pulley) ==
'''Complete DIY Video'''

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/Dh8QXkzLvlY|320|center|W220 Tensioner Idler Pulley DIY (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

Engine belt

2021-02-01T22:38:41Z

Masood: /* Replacing Guide Pulley (Idler Pulley) */

Back to '''[[Index]]'''



==Description==
The Poly-V-belt drive (commonly known as the Serpentine Belt) drives engine components (alternator, AC compressor, etc.) from the engine.

==Layout Diagrams==
Crankshaft turns clockwise.
=== S350/S430/S500 ===
{|
|[[File:W220_poly-V-belt_drive_layout_S500.png]]
|
# Automatic belt tensioner
# ABC tandem pump (pump for power-steering assistance and ABC chassis)
# Air conditioning compressor
# Crankshaft
# Coolant pump
# Generator (alternator)
# Idler pulley

Length: 2380mm
|}


{|
|
6-groove single-belt drive, with AC compressor
* 1 - Crankshaft
* 2 - AC compressor
* 3 - Power steering pump
* 4 - Guide pulley 1
* 5 - Generator
* 6 - Coolant pump and fan
* 7 - Tension pulley
|[[File:W220_6_groove_single-belt_drive.png|300px]]
|}

Part no:
* A0119979792
* Bosch 1987946046 (length 2390mm)
* Continental ctam 6PK2390 (length 2390mm)

=== S55 AMG ===
{|
|[[File:W220_poly-V-belt_drive_layout_S55_AMG.png]]
|The S 55 AMG has two poly-V-belts (belt one shown in purple/belt two shown in black).
# Idler pulley
# Automatic belt tensioner
# ABC tandem pump (pump for power-steering assistance and ABC chassis)
# Air conditioning compressor
# Crankshaft
# Coolant pump
# Generator (alternator)
# Idler pulley
# Automatic belt tensioner
# Supercharger

Length of belt one: 1289 mm

Length of belt two: 2462 mm
|}
=== S600 ===
{|
|[[File:W220_poly-V-belt_drive_layout_S600.png]]
|
# Automatic belt tensioner
# ABC tandem pump (pump for power-steering assistance and ABC chassis)
# Air conditioning compressor
# Crankshaft
# Coolant pump
# Generator (alternator)
# Idler pulley
# Idler pulley
# Idler pulley
Length: 2335 mm
|}

== Replacing belt ==

To remove tension from idler pulley, locate 17mm tensioner bolt located on tensioner bracket (see photo below). Belt obstructs the view so it has to be found by feel.
After locating 17mm bolt, push down the bar counter-clockwise (see photo below).
When putting the belt back on, it is easier to leave the last part of the belt to slide over the water pump pulley as it has no lip or grooves.

[[File:W220_S500_removing_serpentine_belt.jpg|300px]]
[[File:W220_belt_tensioner_bolt.jpg]]

See photo DIY here (S350/S430/S500):
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1582489-drive-belt-idler-change-photo-diy.html

== Replacing Tensioning Device (Tensioner Pulley) ==
'''Complete DIY Video'''

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/ltmyMS7IRQE|320|center|W220 Tensioner Pulley DIY (By Masood)|frame}}
|}

== Replacing Guide Pulley (Idler Pulley) ==
'''Complete DIY Video'''

{|
|{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/ltmyMS7IRQE|320|center|W220 Tensioner Idler Pulley DIY (By Masood)|frame}}
|}