Airmatic - Revision history

Pokseva: /* Inspecting AIRmatic Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) for leaks */ Bench testing valve block

2025-07-29T17:33:01Z

Inspecting AIRmatic Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) for leaks: Bench testing valve block

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:33, 29 July 2025
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	[[File:W220_airmatic_valve_block_test_2.jpg\|200px]]		[[File:W220_airmatic_valve_block_test_2.jpg\|200px]]
	[[File:W220_airmatic_valve_block_test_3.jpg\|200px]]		[[File:W220_airmatic_valve_block_test_3.jpg\|200px]]

			=== Bench testing valve block ===

			It is possible to bench test a valve block by providing pressure into the 'P' port and monitoring other ports with a soapy solution. However, note that leak can manifest itself from one direction only (usually from strut to valve block)
			and appear after some time, once the internal pressure of a weak o-ring is circumvented.
			Hence, it is not always possible to quickly identify a leaky valve block/o-ring.

	===Leak Testing Using [[STAR Diagnosis System (SDS) or Diagnosis Assistance System (DAS)]]===		===Leak Testing Using [[STAR Diagnosis System (SDS) or Diagnosis Assistance System (DAS)]]===

Pokseva: /* O-ring repair kit */ added note about the large o-ring being optional

2025-07-29T17:27:15Z

O-ring repair kit: added note about the large o-ring being optional

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:27, 29 July 2025
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	\|[[File:W220_airmatic_valve_block_removed_old_orings.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Old O-rings removed]]		\|[[File:W220_airmatic_valve_block_removed_old_orings.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Old O-rings removed]]
	\|[[File:W220_airmatic_valve_block_new_seal_to_solenoid_block.jpg\|thumb\|none\|New seal for solenoid block halves]]		\|[[File:W220_airmatic_valve_block_new_seal_to_solenoid_block.jpg\|thumb\|none\|New seal for solenoid block halves]]
			\|}

			In practice, it is not necessary to install the large o-ring between the two halves. To ensure that the two halves do not come apart, use zip ties as shown below.
			{\|
			\|[[File:W220_valve_block_resealed.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Valve block resealed using zip ties]]
	\|}		\|}

Pokseva: /* Parts */ Miessler Automotive part seems to have been an error (no such product exists)

2025-07-24T15:13:53Z

Parts: Miessler Automotive part seems to have been an error (no such product exists)

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:13, 24 July 2025
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	It is a common fault for the valve block to fail open. A new valve block unit (A2203200258) costs around EUR 290.		It is a common fault for the valve block to fail open. A new valve block unit (A2203200258) costs around EUR 290.
	In case of o-ring failure, they can be replaced (see the valve block o-ring repair kits available in the section below).		In the case of an o-ring failure, they can be replaced (see the valve block o-ring repair kits available in the section below).
	Cheap Chinese clones made of plastic are available on Aliexpress, but in our experience they started to leak in less than a year of operation and the lifetime of the pressure sensor is around two years.

	{\|		{\|
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	\|[[File:W220_valve_block_colored.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Y36/6 Level control valve unit.]]		\|[[File:W220_valve_block_colored.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Y36/6 Level control valve unit.]]
	\|[[File:W220_A2203200258_valve_block.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Valve block (A2203200258).]]		\|[[File:W220_A2203200258_valve_block.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Valve block (A2203200258).]]
	~~\|{{#ev:youtube\|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8n5LWoqv_8M\|320\|left\|Chinese plastic clone (60 USD on Aliexpress)\|frame}}~~
	\|}		\|}

	~~Miessler Automotive has created after-market valve block (EUR 200) claiming~~		Cheap Chinese clones made of plastic are available on Aliexpress, but in our experience they started to leak in less than a year of operation and the lifetime of the pressure sensor is only around two years.
	to ~~have better quality~~ than the ~~original, i.e., being absolutely weatherproof without~~
	~~the risk~~ of ~~corrosion as~~ the ~~original~~.

	{\|		{\|
	\|~~[[File~~:~~W220_valve_block_Miessler.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Miessler valve block (VENT5X22W220)]]~~		\|{{#ev:youtube\|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8n5LWoqv_8M\|320\|left\|Chinese plastic clone (60 USD on Aliexpress)\|frame}}
	\|~~[[File~~:~~W220_valve_block_Miessler_back~~.~~jpg~~\|~~thumb~~\|~~none~~\|~~Miessler valve block~~ (~~back~~)]]
	\|}		\|}

Pokseva: /* Function of AIRmatic Compressor Unit */ information about the working principle of the air compressor

2025-07-24T15:11:37Z

Function of AIRmatic Compressor Unit: information about the working principle of the air compressor

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:11, 24 July 2025
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	The air drier is maintenance free. The moisture is delivered back		The air drier is maintenance free. The moisture is delivered back
	into the air when reducing the pressure.		into the air when reducing the pressure.

			''More information about the working principle of the air compressor can be read [https://studfile.net/preview/4426738/page:3/ here] and [https://sci-hub.se/downloads/2019-01-14//2e/becher2014.pdf here].''

	====Air Filter====		====Air Filter====

Pokseva: /* Air Dryer */ updated info about regenerating silica gel

2025-07-14T15:07:08Z

Air Dryer: updated info about regenerating silica gel

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:07, 14 July 2025
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	This process is reversible. If the silica gel desiccant is heated it will release the trapped water.		This process is reversible. If the silica gel desiccant is heated it will release the trapped water.
	This process is called regenerating the desiccant.		This process is called regenerating the desiccant.
	Once saturated with water, the gel can be regenerated by heating it to ~~120 °C (250 °F)~~ for 1–2 hours.		Once saturated with water, the gel can be regenerated by heating it to 110–150°C for 1–2 hours.
	~~However, silica gel degrades~~ after ~~very few cycles if heated to 110°C or~~ more.		The regeneration process is completed after more drying does not decrease the weight of the gel.
	~~For maximum longevity dry it at just 80°C. It won't take much longer but will last longer and work just as well as a desiccant~~.

	Once the silica gel gets saturated with water, the moisture will get in the system.		Once the silica gel gets saturated with water, the moisture will get in the system.

Pokseva: /* Parts */ Chinese valve block - poor reliability

2023-04-07T21:48:08Z

Parts: Chinese valve block - poor reliability

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:48, 7 April 2023
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	It is a common fault for the valve block to fail open. A new valve block unit (A2203200258) costs around EUR 290.		It is a common fault for the valve block to fail open. A new valve block unit (A2203200258) costs around EUR 290.
	In case of o-ring failure, they can be replaced (see the valve block o-ring repair kits available in the section below).		In case of o-ring failure, they can be replaced (see the valve block o-ring repair kits available in the section below).
	Cheap Chinese clones made of plastic are available on Aliexpress, but in our experience they started to leak in less than a year of operation.		Cheap Chinese clones made of plastic are available on Aliexpress, but in our experience they started to leak in less than a year of operation and the lifetime of the pressure sensor is around two years.

	{\|		{\|

Pokseva: /* Remove/install rear suspension strut */ hint about level control switch

2023-03-05T13:35:00Z

Remove/install rear suspension strut: hint about level control switch

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:35, 5 March 2023
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	# Reattach wheel		# Reattach wheel
	# Screw pressure line connection (41a)		# Screw pressure line connection (41a)
	# Fill suspension struts affected using [[DAS]]. Pressurize to 5 bar. '''''Warning:''''' During recharging the wheels should never be in contact with the floor; refilling with the suspension compressed leads to destruction of the air suspension bellows in the strut (41). If [[DAS]] is not available, start the car and check that the strut gets pressurized. If the strut is not being pressurized, stop the car, lock, unlock and start the car again.		# Fill suspension struts affected using [[DAS]]. Pressurize to 5 bar. '''''Warning:''''' During recharging the wheels should never be in contact with the floor; refilling with the suspension compressed leads to destruction of the air suspension bellows in the strut (41). If [[DAS]] is not available, start the car and check that the strut gets pressurized. If the strut is not being pressurized, stop the car, lock, unlock and start the car again. Operate Level Control Switch (N72/1s2) to force strut height adjustment.
	# Release the car from the jack slowly to check that the strut has enough pressure. Do not release the wheels fully before the struct has enough pressure.		# Release the car from the jack slowly to check that the strut has enough pressure. Do not release the wheels fully before the struct has enough pressure.
	# Check that the car is on the ground and the vehicle is fully supported on the new strut.		# Check that the car is on the ground and the vehicle is fully supported on the new strut.

Pokseva: /* Remove/install rear suspension strut */ more precise installation instructions

2023-03-05T13:29:02Z

Remove/install rear suspension strut: more precise installation instructions

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:29, 5 March 2023
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	\|}		\|}

			Removal:
	# Depressurize suspension strut concerned (41) using [[DAS]]. ''(Note: it is not strictly necessary to do this step - just be careful when opening the pressure line to release any residual air slowly.)''		# Depressurize suspension strut concerned (41) using [[DAS]]. ''(Note: it is not strictly necessary to do this step - just be careful when opening the pressure line to release any residual air slowly.)''
	# ''Remove [[fuses\|f32]]/40A (AIRmatic compressor fuse) from the relay box in engine compartment right. This is not strictly necessary, as the compressor should not engage if engine is not running.''		# ''Remove [[fuses\|f32]]/40A (AIRmatic compressor fuse) from the relay box in engine compartment right. This is not strictly necessary, as the compressor should not engage if engine is not running.''
	# Jack up ~~the rear or just~~ one side of the car as required. Support the car on stands.		# Jack up one side of the car as required. Support the car on stands.
	# Remove rear wheel~~(s)~~.		# Remove rear wheel.
	# Remove cover (arrow) in parcel shelf. ''To avoid damage to the trim on the C-pillar it is best to remove it as it '''certainly will be damaged (bruised/compressed and possibly dirtied)''' if not removed. To remove C-pillar unscrew T30 bolt under SRS tab and pull it off.''		# Remove cover (arrow) in parcel shelf. ''To avoid damage to the trim on the C-pillar it is best to remove it as it '''certainly will be damaged (bruised/compressed and possibly dirtied)''' if not removed. To remove C-pillar unscrew T30 bolt under SRS tab and pull it off.''
	#: [[File:W220 Damage to C-Pillar Trim Removing AIRmatic Rear Strut with Annotation.JPG\|thumb\|none\|Damaged C-pillar]]		#: [[File:W220 Damage to C-Pillar Trim Removing AIRmatic Rear Strut with Annotation.JPG\|thumb\|none\|Damaged C-pillar]]
Line 1,811:		Line 1,812:
	# Unscrew pressure line connection (41a) ''using 10mm open ended spanner''. '''''Be warned''': pressure in the line between the valve block and the suspension strut can be very high so if pressure has not been released using [[DAS]], '''slowly''' unscrew the valve allowing the residual pressure to escape. (The residual pressure valve on the top of the strut prevents the release of the last bit of pressure. Residual pressure in suspension strut is up to 3.5 bar. This means that the strut will still exert considerable force on the suspension components.)''		# Unscrew pressure line connection (41a) ''using 10mm open ended spanner''. '''''Be warned''': pressure in the line between the valve block and the suspension strut can be very high so if pressure has not been released using [[DAS]], '''slowly''' unscrew the valve allowing the residual pressure to escape. (The residual pressure valve on the top of the strut prevents the release of the last bit of pressure. Residual pressure in suspension strut is up to 3.5 bar. This means that the strut will still exert considerable force on the suspension components.)''
	# Plug the pressure line for the duration of the repair operations ''(just to make sure that dirt does not get in)''.		# Plug the pressure line for the duration of the repair operations ''(just to make sure that dirt does not get in)''.
	# Unscrew nuts (41b) ''using the smallest 13mm socket and driver available''. Installation: ''Loosely'' fit nuts (41b) then refill suspension strut in fully-assembled vehicle before torquing to specification ''(the vehicle must be in the ready to drive mode when torquing these three nuts)''.		# Unscrew nuts (41b) ''using the smallest 13mm socket and driver available''.
	# Pull off grommet and disconnect electrical connector of damping valve unit (Y53x1/ Y54x1)		# Pull off grommet and disconnect electrical connector of damping valve unit (Y53x1/ Y54x1)
	# Remove bolts ''(or plastic rivets)'' (72d) on spring control arm cover (72c). ''Remove spring control arm cover (72c).''		# Remove bolts ''(or plastic rivets)'' (72d) on spring control arm cover (72c). ''Remove spring control arm cover (72c).''
	# ''Detach brake caliper from the wheel. Disconnect brake wear sensor and remove brake wear sensor bracket (right side only). The removal of brake caliper is not strictly necessary if vehicle is lifted high and hence there is enough space to pull out the strut downwards.''		# ''Detach brake caliper from the wheel. Disconnect brake wear sensor and remove brake wear sensor bracket (right side only). The removal of brake caliper is not strictly necessary if vehicle is lifted high and hence there is enough space to pull out the strut downwards.''
	# ''Remove stabilizer bar link bottom nut and ~~detach~~ the bottom part of the stabilizer bar.''		# ''Remove stabilizer bar link bottom nut using 16mm socket and 22mm wrench. Detach the bottom part of the stabilizer bar.''
	#: [[File:W220 Stabiliser Bar Link Removing Bottom Nut.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Removal of stabilizer bar link bottom]]		#: [[File:W220 Stabiliser Bar Link Removing Bottom Nut.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Removal of stabilizer bar link bottom]]
	# Remove bolted connection (2) of suspension strut (41) on spring control arm (72) ''using 21mm socket from both sides''. ~~(''Note: Any~~ residual pressure in the strut will prevent the bolt from being removed.~~'') Installation: Fit nuts~~ (~~41b~~) ~~and tighten after filling the suspension strut on a vehicle which is ready~~ to ~~drive ''(or ensure that rear axle is horizontal by jacking under~~ the rear brake disc with the wheel removed and measuring distance between lower edge of fender and center of axle (about 360mm) before torquing connection rear strut to spring control arm (2) of suspension)''.		# Remove bolted connection (2) of suspension strut (41) on spring control arm (72) using 21mm socket from both sides. The residual pressure in the strut will prevent the bolt from being removed. Use unscrewing (instead of pulling) to remove the bolt.
	#: [[File:W220 Removing rear strut to spring control arm connection.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Removing strut to spring control arm connection.]]		#: [[File:W220 Removing rear strut to spring control arm connection.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Removing strut to spring control arm connection.]]
	# Remove bolted connection (3) of thrust arm (4) on rear axle carrier. ''~~This~~ step is not ~~strictly~~ necessary as even without loosening this bolt the string control arm should easily swing out of the way for the strut removal.		# Remove bolted connection (1) of thrust arm (4) on rear axle carrier. ''In practice, this step is not necessary as even without loosening this bolt the string control arm should easily swing out of the way for the strut removal.
	#: [[File:W220 Spring Control Arm to Axle Carrier Inner bolted connection.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Loosening the inner bolted connection of spring control arm to axle carrier]]		#: [[File:W220 Spring Control Arm to Axle Carrier Inner bolted connection.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Loosening the inner bolted connection of spring control arm to axle carrier]]
	# Remove bolted connection ~~(1)~~ of spring control arm (72) on rear ~~axle~~ carrier ''using 21mm socket from ~~both sides''~~. ~~''Any~~ residual pressure in the strut will prevent the bolt from being ~~easily~~ removed. ~~Jack the spring control arm slightly~~ to remove ~~the pressure on the spring control arm to wheel carrier bolted connection. If there is no residual pressure in the strut~~ the bolt ~~can be released just by wriggling the wheel carrier.'' ''Installation: Ensure rear axle is horizontal before torquing connection outer spring control arm to wheel carrier~~.''		# Remove bolted connection of spring control arm (72) on rear wheel carrier (using 21mm socket from one side and Torx E18 socket from the other). The residual pressure in the strut will prevent the bolt from being removed. Use unscrewing (instead of pulling) to remove the bolt.
	#: [[File:W220 Undoing spring control arm to wheel carrier bolted connection.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Undoing spring control arm to wheel carrier bolted connection]]		#: [[File:W220 Undoing spring control arm to wheel carrier bolted connection.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Undoing spring control arm to wheel carrier bolted connection]]
	# ''Lower the jack just enough to remove the pressure on the spring control arm caused by the strut. Remove the bolt for the rear strut to spring control arm connection. Lower the jack which will allow the spring control arm (72) to swing out of the way.''
	# Pull down track control arm (72) and remove strut assembly (41) by lowering it and pulling it out to the side.		# Pull down track control arm (72) and remove strut assembly (41) by lowering it and pulling it out to the side.
	# Install in the ~~reverse order~~
	# Fill suspension struts affected using [[DAS]]. Pressurize to 5 bar. '''''Warning:''''' During recharging the wheels should never be in contact with the floor; refilling with the suspension compressed leads to destruction of the air suspension bellows in the strut (41).		Installation:
	# ~~''Double~~ check that the strut ~~top mounting nuts (41b) were torqued correctly after~~ the vehicle ~~was ready to drive and~~ fully supported on the new ~~struts~~.''		# Install strut by ''loosely'' fitting nuts (41b). (The vehicle must be in the ready to drive mode when torquing these three nuts.)
	# ''Check for leaks~~.''~~		# Install bolted connection (2) of suspension strut (41) on spring control arm (72). (The vehicle must be in the ready to drive mode when torquing this bolt.)
			# Install bolted connection (1) of thrust arm (4) on rear axle carrier (if this bolt was loosened or removed). (The vehicle must be in the ready to drive mode when torquing this bolt.)
			# Reattach stabilizer bar link bottom nut
			# Install bolted connection of spring control arm (72) and wheel carrier by wriggling the wheel carrier (use a jack to raise spring control arm as needed). (The vehicle must be in the ready to drive mode when torquing this bolt.)
			# Route strut's electrical line and reconnect connector of damping valve unit (Y53x1/ Y54x1)
			# Attach spring control arm cover (72c)
			# Reattach brake caliper (if was removed)
			# Reattach wheel
			# Screw pressure line connection (41a)
			# Fill suspension struts affected using [[DAS]]. Pressurize to 5 bar. '''''Warning:''''' During recharging the wheels should never be in contact with the floor; refilling with the suspension compressed leads to destruction of the air suspension bellows in the strut (41). If [[DAS]] is not available, start the car and check that the strut gets pressurized. If the strut is not being pressurized, stop the car, lock, unlock and start the car again.
			# Release the car from the jack slowly to check that the strut has enough pressure. Do not release the wheels fully before the struct has enough pressure.
			# Check that the car is on the ground and the vehicle is fully supported on the new strut.
			# Torque three fitting nuts (41b).
			# Attach cover (arrow) in parcel shelf. Reattach C-pillar.
			# Torque bolted connection (2) of suspension strut (41) on spring control arm (72)
			# Torque bolted connection (1) of thrust arm (4) on rear axle carrier (if this bolt was loosened or removed)
			# Torque bolted connection of spring control arm (72) and wheel carrier
			# Check for leaks

	Torque specifications:		Torque specifications:

Pokseva: /* Remove/install rear suspension strut */ some fixes

2023-02-23T17:16:38Z

Remove/install rear suspension strut: some fixes

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:16, 23 February 2023
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	# ''Remove stabilizer bar link bottom nut and detach the bottom part of the stabilizer bar.''		# ''Remove stabilizer bar link bottom nut and detach the bottom part of the stabilizer bar.''
	#: [[File:W220 Stabiliser Bar Link Removing Bottom Nut.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Removal of stabilizer bar link bottom]]		#: [[File:W220 Stabiliser Bar Link Removing Bottom Nut.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Removal of stabilizer bar link bottom]]
	# Remove bolted connection (2) of suspension strut (41) on spring control arm (72) ''using 21mm socket from both sides''. ''Note: Any residual pressure in the strut will prevent the bolt from being removed.'' Installation: Fit nuts (41b) and tighten after filling the suspension strut on a vehicle which is ready to drive ''(or ensure that rear axle is horizontal by jacking under the rear brake disc with the wheel removed and measuring distance between lower edge of fender and center of axle (about 360mm) before torquing connection rear strut to spring control arm (2) of suspension)''.		# Remove bolted connection (2) of suspension strut (41) on spring control arm (72) ''using 21mm socket from both sides''. (''Note: Any residual pressure in the strut will prevent the bolt from being removed.'') Installation: Fit nuts (41b) and tighten after filling the suspension strut on a vehicle which is ready to drive ''(or ensure that rear axle is horizontal by jacking under the rear brake disc with the wheel removed and measuring distance between lower edge of fender and center of axle (about 360mm) before torquing connection rear strut to spring control arm (2) of suspension)''.
	#: [[File:W220 Removing rear strut to spring control arm connection.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Removing strut to spring control arm connection.]]		#: [[File:W220 Removing rear strut to spring control arm connection.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Removing strut to spring control arm connection.]]
	# Remove bolted connection (3) of ~~spring control~~ arm (72) on rear axle carrier. ''This step is not strictly necessary as even without loosening this bolt the string control arm should easily swing out of the way for the strut removal.		# Remove bolted connection (3) of thrust arm (4) on rear axle carrier. ''This step is not strictly necessary as even without loosening this bolt the string control arm should easily swing out of the way for the strut removal.
	#: [[File:W220 Spring Control Arm to Axle Carrier Inner bolted connection.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Loosening the inner bolted connection of spring control arm to axle carrier]]		#: [[File:W220 Spring Control Arm to Axle Carrier Inner bolted connection.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Loosening the inner bolted connection of spring control arm to axle carrier]]
	# Remove bolted connection (1) of spring control arm (72) on rear axle carrier ''using 21mm socket from both sides''. ''Any residual pressure in the strut will prevent the bolt from being easily removed. Jack the spring control arm slightly to remove the pressure on the spring control arm to wheel carrier bolted connection. If there is no residual pressure in the strut the bolt can be released just by wriggling the wheel carrier.'' ''Installation: Ensure rear axle is horizontal before torquing connection outer spring control arm to wheel carrier.''		# Remove bolted connection (1) of spring control arm (72) on rear axle carrier ''using 21mm socket from both sides''. ''Any residual pressure in the strut will prevent the bolt from being easily removed. Jack the spring control arm slightly to remove the pressure on the spring control arm to wheel carrier bolted connection. If there is no residual pressure in the strut the bolt can be released just by wriggling the wheel carrier.'' ''Installation: Ensure rear axle is horizontal before torquing connection outer spring control arm to wheel carrier.''

Masood at 00:38, 5 January 2023

2023-01-05T00:38:14Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:38, 5 January 2023
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	Excellent replacement tutorials for the front struts are available here:		Excellent replacement tutorials for the front struts are available here:
	{\|		{\|

			\|{{#ev:youtube\|https://youtube.com/watch?v=5guGcaMabxw&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE\|320\|left\|Front Air shock replacement (By Masood)\|frame}}
	\|{{#ev:youtube\|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJ8Q3DuKH8M\|320\|left\|Front air shock replacement (by Arnott)\|frame}}		\|{{#ev:youtube\|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJ8Q3DuKH8M\|320\|left\|Front air shock replacement (by Arnott)\|frame}}
	\|{{#ev:youtube\|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hiYy3fgpl0k\|320\|left\|Front air shock replacement (by BILSTEIN)\|frame}}		\|{{#ev:youtube\|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hiYy3fgpl0k\|320\|left\|Front air shock replacement (by BILSTEIN)\|frame}}

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:38, 5 January 2023
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	Excellent replacement tutorials for the front struts are available here:		Excellent replacement tutorials for the front struts are available here:
	{\|		{\|

			\|{{#ev:youtube\|https://youtube.com/watch?v=5guGcaMabxw&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE\|320\|left\|Front Air shock replacement (By Masood)\|frame}}
	\|{{#ev:youtube\|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJ8Q3DuKH8M\|320\|left\|Front air shock replacement (by Arnott)\|frame}}		\|{{#ev:youtube\|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJ8Q3DuKH8M\|320\|left\|Front air shock replacement (by Arnott)\|frame}}
	\|{{#ev:youtube\|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hiYy3fgpl0k\|320\|left\|Front air shock replacement (by BILSTEIN)\|frame}}		\|{{#ev:youtube\|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hiYy3fgpl0k\|320\|left\|Front air shock replacement (by BILSTEIN)\|frame}}