|
|
| (8 intermediate revisions by 2 users not shown) |
| Line 1: |
Line 1: |
| ==Description - Retractable Trunk Lid Grip==
| | #REDIRECT [[Trunk]] |
| M-B S-Class without the auto or self-close trunk/boot lid function have a hidden handle which appears whenever the boot/trunk lid is opened. The handle is chrome plated and is pneumatically controlled. It is called the Retractable Trunk Lid Grip (RTG).
| |
| | |
| The Retractable Trunk Lid Grip (RTG) is used to pull down the boot/trunk lid for easy closing.
| |
| According to M-B the hidden handle was provided to avoid the operator having to touch a wet handle in inclement conditions. STAR DAS refers to it as the "dirt free handle".
| |
| | |
| The positive and negative pressures required for the pneumatic functions are obtained from the [[Pneumatic System Equipment (PSE) Pump]].
| |
| | |
| ==Issues - Retractable Trunk Lid Grip==
| |
| ===Hissing Sound on Trunk Closure===
| |
| | |
| This issue applies to vehicles with auto closing trunk and later ones post facelift 2003 which if they don't have the auto close feature have the Retractable Trunk Lid Grip (RTG) or retracting chrome handle feature.
| |
| | |
| After the boot lid is closed there is a hissing noise as the lid is pulled down tight and then the chrome handle retracts.
| |
| | |
| ====Hissing Noise Cause====
| |
| | |
| A persistent loud hissing noise once you close your trunk is not normal and usually means that you have a tiny leak and may need a new trunk lock actuator or a small crack in the yellow vacuum hose to the locking mechanism.
| |
| | |
| It will eventually stop leaking once the leak gets worse. Hopefully the pump will recognise that it is running for too long and will stop working so that it doesn't burn out. Then the trunk stops sucking down. Do not leave in this condition for too long because when the trunk stops sucking down water can get in and ruin your electronic components in the left side of the trunk behind the panels. There is also a possibility of damaging the pump due to constant running.
| |
| | |
| ====Repair Vacuum Hose Solution====
| |
| | |
| The hissing is often caused by a crack in the yellow vacuum hose that is located inside the black braided plastic harness which is easily visible on the inside of the trunk towards the rear window. You can see it when the trunk opens and closes. For whatever reason M-B used a very stiff pipe which cracks easily.
| |
| | |
| A common mistake is that when you have some aftermarket installation such as a reversing camera, the installer runs their wires alongside the harness, and adheres their wires to this with the additional strain causing premature failure of the vacuum hose.
| |
| | |
| A simple fix is to use a rubber hose to cover the crack and seal it with adhesive, sealer, tape and plastic ties.
| |
| | |
| http://w220.ee/images/d/d9/W220_Repair_of_Yellow_Trunk_Vacuum_Hose.JPG
| |
| | |
| Reference: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=1761754
| |
| | |
| ===Trunk/Boot Lid Handle Removal===
| |
| | |
| It is difficult to remove the actuator rod out of the trunk locking mechanism without breaking the plastic that surrounds it.
| |
| | |
| '''Caution''' Be careful as if the rod is not replaced correctly and securely, the trunk can lock and may not be openable with either the key or with the remote.
| |
| | |
| '''Method'''
| |
| * Disconnect the battery earth connection.
| |
| * Remove the trunk lid lining as per [[WIS 88.50 Trunk/Boot Lid|DIY - Removing Trunk Lid Lining]]
| |
| * Note that the rod end is placed between one black plastic piece that has screw thread on it and another piece that is like a small latch door.
| |
| * Mark the position of the actuator rod with masking tape.
| |
| [[File:W220 Masking Tape Showing Position of Trunk Actuator Lever.JPG|400px|center]]
| |
| * Make sure to remove the actuator rod at the end closest to the pneumatic actuator or "hockey puck". Some BW Members have spent hours trying to pry off the ball joint end, and finally yanked on the other end to find it came out relatively easily.
| |
| * The latch door can be opened with a wide flat head screwdriver. Carefully apply a strong steady force.
| |
| * Once the latch piece "swings away", the metal rod can be pried out of the plastic piece. The key is to be gentle and patient. It is a good idea to place a spacer behind the rod to hold it in place when applying finger pressure to the plastic tab.
| |
| [[File:W220 Trunk Actuator Lever Removed from Tab.JPG|400px|center]]
| |
| * Once the rod is removed, remove the pneumatic actuator or "hockey puck". '''Caution''' because if the rod is not replaced correctly and securely, the trunk can lock and may not be openable with either the key or with the remote.
| |
| * Once the rod is released the whole actuator can easily be removed from the trunk lid. It is far easier to attempt a repair on a work bench than with the unit still in the car.
| |
| * Mark the position of the two Torx screws holding the latch mechanism in place. This makes for easier reinstallation.
| |
| [[File:W220 Boot Trunk Lock Mechanism with Marked Screw Positions.JPG|400px|center]]
| |
| * Remove the two Torx screws and allow the whole actuator assembly to hang down into the trunk.
| |
| [[File:W220 Trunk Latch Actuator Pneumatic Line Colours.JPG|400px|center]]
| |
| * Note the colours of the pneumatic lines and the position of the black and blue electrical connectors before disconnecting them.
| |
| * Move the whole assembly to a work bench.
| |
| * At the lock mechanism where the rod attaches, take a screw driver or needle nose pliers and gently wedge between rod and plastic slot where the rod attaches.
| |
| * Gently pry the rod out of the slot.
| |
| * Once the rod is released you can then pull the lock mechanism down so you can access the puck. This isn't hard, but a word of warning! There is a little electrical plug that attaches next to the puck. If you unplug it, make sure your fingers are not next to the lock latch as it will put a death grip on your finger.
| |
| * The puck is press fitted into the lock housing and again can be detached by gently prying with a small screwdriver to release.
| |
| * Once the puck is detached if the air line is still attached it can be removed if required to bench work the puck. Instead of detaching the airline at the puck just pull the hose off at the attachment point at the puck. It is easy to understand when you get the puck released from the housing.
| |
| * Unless you have a replacement puck, then you must attempt to reseal.
| |
| * Reseal by compressing the puck then using a two part sealer. Coat the seam around the side of the puck where it was leaking, 360 degrees.
| |
| * Let it cure for a few hours.
| |
| * Wrap "high speed" tape over the seal.
| |
| * Add more tape over the top and bottom to fortify the bond.
| |
| * Here is an example of a less elegant solution by BenzWorld member 'ricebubbles'. Twitching wire and plastic ties were used to reinforce the pneumatic chambers.
| |
| [[File:W220 Trunk Latch Actuator With Reinforcing Wires and Ties Top View.JPG|400px|center]]
| |
| | |
| [[File:W220 Trunk Latch Actuator With Reinforcing Wires and Ties Bottom View.JPG|400px|center]] | |
| * Re-install in reverse order and the system should be restored to fully operational.
| |
| | |
| * A bonus was that an annoying rattle which had been present for years was discovered. It turned out to be the one way valve (black and white device in next picture) installed in the red pneumatic line to the trunk lid actuator. It was rattling against the boot lid and was fixed by securing firmly with plastic ties.
| |
| [[File:W220 One Way Valve was Source of Annoying Rattle.JPG|400px|center]]
| |
| | |
| ==Acknowledgement==
| |
| With thanks to BenzWorld Members dilsingh, deucer, OCKlasse and mercy-me.
| |
| Downloadable pdfs are at reference Post #5: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1675592-w220-trunk-lid-hockey-puck-removal.html
| |