WIS 88.50 Trunk/Boot Lid: Difference between revisions

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(Moved retractable handle stuff to new section WIS 88.52 Retractable Trunk Lid Grip (RTG))
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==Hissing Sound on Trunk Closure==
==Description - Trunk/Boot Lid==
'''Issue'''
The S-Class Trunk/Boot Lid is pneumatically controlled and can have some or all of the following functions depending on the configuration codes as detailed on the [[Data Card | Vehicle Data Card (List of Option Codes)]].
 
* Auto opening
This issue applies to vehicles with auto closing trunk and later ones  post facelift 2003 which if they don't have the auto close feature have the Retractable Trunk Lid Grip (RTG) or retracting chrome handle feature.
* Auto or self closing
 
* [[WIS 88.52 Retractable Trunk Lid Grip (RTG)|Extension and retraction of Trunk/Boot Lid handle]]
After the boot lid is closed there is a hissing noise as the lid is pulled down tight and then the chrome handle retracts. General opinion is that the M-B design purpose for a hidden handle was to avoid the operator having to touch a wet handle in inclement conditions. STAR DAS refers to it as the "dirt free handle".
* Pneumatically operated lock and unlock with mechanical (emergency key) overide
 
* Trunk/Boot Lid pull down function.
'''Hissing Noise Cause'''
The positive and negative pressures required for the pneumatic control of the Trunk/Boot Lid  functions are generated by the [[Pneumatic System Equipment (PSE) Pump|Pneumatic System Equipment (PSE) Pump.]]
 
==Issues - Trunk/Boot Lid==
A persistent loud hissing noise once you close your trunk is not normal and usually means that you have a tiny leak and may need a new trunk lock actuator or a small crack in the yellow vacuum hose to the locking mechanism.
Common issues relating to the trunk/boot lid functions are;
 
* [[WIS 88.52 Retractable Trunk Lid Grip (RTG)| Hissing Sound on Trunk Closure]]
It will eventually stop leaking once the leak gets worse. Hopefully the pump will recognise that it is running for too long and will stop working so that it doesn't burn out. Then the trunk stops sucking down. Do not leave in this condition for too long because when the trunk stops sucking down water can get in and ruin your electronic components in the left side of the trunk behind the panels. There is also a possibility of damaging the pump due to constant running.
* Broken or Failed Pneumatic Actuators
 
* Cracked or broken pneumatic lines.
'''Repair Vacuum Hose Solution'''
* [[WIS 88.52 Retractable Trunk Lid Grip (RTG)| Cannot remove the actuator rod to get the locking mechanism out of the trunk]]
 
* Open the Trunk/Boot when the Battery is Dead
The hissing is often caused by a crack in the yellow vacuum hose that is located inside the black braided plastic harness which is easily visible on the inside of the trunk towards the rear window. You can see it when the trunk opens and closes. For whatever reason M-B used a very stiff pipe which cracks easily.
 
A common mistake is that when you have some aftermarket installation such as a reversing camera, the installer runs their wires alongside the harness, and adheres their wires to this with the additional strain causing premature failure of the vacuum hose.
 
A simple fix is to use a rubber hose to cover the crack and seal it with adhesive, sealer, tape and plastic ties.
 
http://w220.ee/images/d/d9/W220_Repair_of_Yellow_Trunk_Vacuum_Hose.JPG
 
Reference: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=1761754
 
==Trunk/Boot Lid Handle Removal==
'''Issue'''
 
It is difficult to remove the actuator rod out of the trunk locking mechanism without breaking the plastic that surrounds it.
 
'''Caution''' Be careful as if the rod is not replaced correctly and securely, the trunk can lock and may not be openable with either the key or with the remote.
 
'''Method'''
* Note that the rod end is placed between one black plastic piece that has screw thread on it and another piece that is like a small latch door.
* The latch door can be opened with a small flat head screwdriver. Carefully apply a strong steady force.
* Once the latch piece "swings away", the metal rod can be pried out of the plastic piece. The key is to be gentle and patient. Make sure to remove the rod at the end closest to the puck. Some BW Members have spent hours trying to pry off the ball joint end, and finally yanked on the other end to find it came out relatively easily.
* Once the rod is removed, remove the "hockey puck". '''Caution''' because if the rod is not replaced correctly and securely, the trunk can lock and may not be openable with either the key or with the remote.
* At the lock mechanism where the rod attaches, take a screw driver or needle nose pliers and gently wedge between rod and plastic slot where the rod attaches.
* Gently pry the rod out of the slot.
* Once the rod is released you can then pull the lock mechanism down so you can access the puck. This isn't hard, but a word of warning! There is a little electrical plug that attaches next to the puck. If you unplug it, make sure your fingers are not next to the lock latch as it will put a death grip on your finger.
* The puck is press fitted into the lock housing and again can be detached by gently prying with a small screwdriver to release.
* Once the puck is detached the air line is probably still attached and can be removed if required to bench work the puck. Instead of detaching the airline at the puck just pull the hose off at the attachment point at the puck. It is easy to understand when you get the puck released from the housing.
* Unless you have a replacement puck, then you must attempt to reseal.
* Reseal by compressing the puck then using a two part sealer. Coat the seam around the side of the puck where it was leaking, 360 degrees.
* Let it cure for a few hours.
* Wrap "high speed" tape over the seal.
* Add more tape over the top and bottom to fortify the bond.
* Re-install in reverse order and the system should be fully restored to fully operational.
 
* With thanks to BenzWorld Members dilsingh, deucer, OCKlasse and mercy-me.
Downloadable pdfs are at reference Post #5: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1675592-w220-trunk-lid-hockey-puck-removal.html


==How to Jump Start the Car and Open the Trunk/Boot when the Battery is Dead==
===How to Jump Start the Car and Open the Trunk/Boot when the Battery is Dead===
'''Issue'''
'''Issue'''


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Reference: http://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w220/328173-dead-battery-cant-get-trunk-inside-car-how-jump-start-help.html
Reference: http://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w220/328173-dead-battery-cant-get-trunk-inside-car-how-jump-start-help.html


== Removing Trunk Lid Lining ==
== DIY - Removing Trunk Lid Lining ==
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== Removing Trunk Lining ==
== DIY - Removing Trunk Lining ==
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Revision as of 15:10, 5 January 2016

Description - Trunk/Boot Lid

The S-Class Trunk/Boot Lid is pneumatically controlled and can have some or all of the following functions depending on the configuration codes as detailed on the Vehicle Data Card (List of Option Codes).

The positive and negative pressures required for the pneumatic control of the Trunk/Boot Lid functions are generated by the Pneumatic System Equipment (PSE) Pump.

Issues - Trunk/Boot Lid

Common issues relating to the trunk/boot lid functions are;

How to Jump Start the Car and Open the Trunk/Boot when the Battery is Dead

Issue

A completely dead battery prevents the boot lid from being electrically opened. A jump start is not possible if you cannot access the battery as the W220 does not have accessible jump ports.

Solution

Extract the mechanical key from the Remote Key Fob and use it to open the Trunk. If that doesn't work you may have to charge the battery prior to jump starting the car.

  • Pull the carpet back from the top under the front passenger side dash.
  • Behind the Styrofoam insulation there is an aluminum plate.
  • Unscrew the 3-4 bolts to get to the positive terminal.
  • Hook up a charger and charge the battery as long as possible.
  • After a while you should be able to start the car.
  • If the trunk still will not open reset it by removing the 20A yellow fuse from under the rear right passenger seat fuse box.
  • Leave it out for about 5 mins.
  • Then put it back in and then try to open the Trunk.
  • The Trunk should now open.

Reference: http://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w220/328173-dead-battery-cant-get-trunk-inside-car-how-jump-start-help.html

DIY - Removing Trunk Lid Lining

Open the trunk.
Plastic panel is attached with 4 screws.
Use Torx 20h screw driver.
Remove the screws.
Remove the plastic panel.
Lining is kept attached with 13 clips.
Detach the lining.
Lining removed.
Trunk lid without lining.

DIY - Removing Trunk Lining

Pull the plastic piece over the trunk lock and lip. Its held in by several 2 piece plastic push clips.
A small slim screwdriver will deal with the push clips nicely.
Use a Torx T-20 to remove the cargo net hold downs. 4 on the back plastic piece and 2 more on the trunk floor forward. After removing all the clips and hold downs, the piece should pull easily straight up.
There are large plastic hold downs under the tops of all the panels.
The right panel does need to be gently folded a bit to get it out.
The left panel is a bit easier. Just tuck a finger into the corner and gently pull it out and towards you.
The center panel has 3 spring steel clips on the top edge.
Gently pull the panel off those and rotate it towards you a bit to get to the trunk lights (2) and pop those out of the panel.
Continue to rotate the back panel towards you and out of the trunk.
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